[Madskp]

Hello and congrats on your Beolab 2500 Speakers.

Tomi Salamon wrote:

The speakers were part of Beosound set. Speakers came with two power cables and two 5 pin powerlink cables. Are those the right cables? Can I use them?

So just to be sure to not mess up please advise me if I l am thinking right about connecting them to MX4000.

Powerlink from speaker into power link on TV (left+right). Speaker independently into power outlet. PL on TV on.

This should be the correct way to do it yes. Powerlink cables are often 8 Pin, but the extra pins are not needed for the Beolab 2500 speakers (my own Beolab 2500 also have 5 Pin connectors on the cables).

Tomi Salamon wrote:

Any other settings on TV? Will the built in speaker also remain working?

According to the user manual you will get a new menu called speaker in the sound menu when you connect powerlink speakers. There you should be able to select 1 for internal speakers, 2 for external speakers and 3 for both internal and external speakers.

 

Hope this will get you some extra sound for your gaming

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Noel Haygarth wrote:

Thanks again. I now have a repaired and working Beomedia.

Great to hear 🙂

Noel Haygarth wrote:

I took a ghost image of the installation and also a copy to another hard disk for back-up, upgraded the RAM to 1GB and put a larger 500gb SATA hard drive inside the unit, using an IDE to SATA converter. If you get Microsoft DART V5 you can create a bootable USB and use Ghost 11.5 to make a copy of the installation.

Thanks for the input. I might look into putting an SSD in to it instead. I think there is some inspiration in some Beosound 5 threads about preparing the SSD for correct allignment.

Noel Haygarth wrote:

If yours is the same main board as mine, look at this manual for power supply options: https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/manual/um-epia-mii-162-63cd39724e43c965057015.pdf

Nice. I also came up with another idea to use an ATX extender cable and just move the existing power supply to another location in the case (it will need some sort of mounting bracket) as there is lots of space in the case

Noel Haygarth wrote:

Ironically there is no reason the whole system could not be ported to a different PC.

I had the same thought. The connections you were i doubt of is digital sound, so a motherboard with that will be needed. Also there might be some drivers issues, but I wonder if it is more or less like a PCI version of the Beoport which has prooven to work under windows 10, and therefor should be possible to use in anothjer system. But that is a test for another time

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Hi Mark and welcome to Beoworld!

The BC9000 speaker 1 sockets will accept 4-pin DIN cables like the ones available from Steve.  The extra two pins on the BC9000 speaker 1 sockets are to provide data to the Penta speakers.  This enables the display on the Pentas to show Volume and Source.  Speakers without displays should work fine without the two extra connections.

A workarround might be to use the 2 pin speaker cables, and get the data and ground connection from the AUX connector on on the BC9000 (Pin 6 is data, Pin 2 is ground) and if your penta have powerlink connect data to pin 6 and ground to pin 7 in that end.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Noel Haygarth wrote:

but your pictures are exactly what I need, so thank you

Great to hear that they are usefull, and hopefully that will get it going again

 

Noel Haygarth wrote:

To get the power supply off you need a very long but narrow flat headed screwdriver to gently push the clip that hold in outwards. You can then gently rock and pull the powersupply off.

Thanks. I will try to see if I can do that without to much damage. I wonder if another ITX power supply with a cable can be used instead. That would make future service much easier

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And some more

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I have no opened up my Beomedia 1. The engieneers that desinged this did not have servicability as the main priority for sure. Man this thing is cramped, and I can,t belive the amount of hot glue used.

I have not yet been able to take the power supply of the ATX conencter. Maybe you have a hint for that?

But I have taken these pictures for now that might helt you placing the wires

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Try to take a look in this old thread that has some pictures of the inside of the Beomedia 1 https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/16279.aspx

Hopefully that can help you locate it. If that is not enough to locate the connection point I have a Beomedia 1 that I can open up when I am home again

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not knowing about Beovision 10. But it is also my observation that the type number does not nessecarely reflect the age or Mk version of s product. Beolab 3500 for example has the same type number for both MK1 and MK2.

I think the type numbers is tied to different configurations of a product, like country specific versions.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Second post here, second para states that BC2 goes to A.Opt 0 if no speakers are connected – and post was made by quite an experienced poster/founder member.

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/13784.aspx

And a post here says it goes to A.OPT 6:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/12695/110803.aspx#110803

And here:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/49635/349244.aspx#349244

Thanks for the links Guy. It seems likely that the BC2 will go to option 0 when no speakers are connected like the BS9000 does.

Not sure about the option 6 comment. If it was in option 6 (link room audio and video commands) it should react to all remote commands. Iw would not make much sense to default to that if no speakers are connected

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I just did a little test with my Beocenter 2 and a pair of Beolab 6000 speakers.

From powered of stated I connected power, waited for 10-15 seconds and tried to activate with the CD button on a BEO4. I tried this 4 times in a row.

• First time with speakers connected. The CD started playing at first press on CD.
• Second time. Disconnected the speakers and powered up. No reaction to a press on CD regardless of how many times I tried. Did the option setting, and then it reacted at first press on CD.
• Third time. Again with disconnected speakers. The same behaviour as the second time.
• Fourth time. I connected the speakers again and powered up. Again the CD started playing at first press on CD.

So based on this small test it seems to me that the BC2 will somehow go to option 0 when speakers is not connected.

I just took a look at the service manual, and a search does not give anything about options, so either this is a not documented “feature”, or a fault in the BC2 (maybe in combinaton with a flat battery?) .

Hope that other members might be able to chime in on this

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Oh and BTW thanks to all for the valuable input on restoring this 🙂 Very appreciated

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

This sounds kind of familiar to me. It has happend more that a few times that my Beocenter 2 would not react to remote commands and I had to do the options settings to get it to react. I have also thought about the possibility that it could be an internal battery, but I have yet to come to investegate it since it is not used daily in any kind of way.

I have not had the thought about the Powerlink speaker being connected/ not connected, and I can not remember in which situations it was setup when I had these issues. I can however try to se if I can replicate it with and without speakers connected. Maybe tomorrow if time allows it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And a few full body shots front and back

The other Beolink 5000 is not going to work for now as both the battery case and some of the internal plastic structure in the housing is damaged. Also it has missing lines and very visible artifacts, so that will require some more serious restoration and a couple of spare parts.

For now I will try to play around with the working Beolink 5000, and I will of course have to buy the wall mount for it 🙂

BTW one of the reasons I did get a Beolink 5000 was to confirm wheether my Beolink 7000 2way reapir was not working or if it was my 2 way systems that had faults. It seems to be the Beolink 7000, so I will have to get back working on that at some point

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

It has been a little busy since christmas, but I had some time to proceed on the Beolink 5000 project this weekend.

I had some thought about how to protect the display cable on the Beolink 5000 with no missing lines, and ended up with a relativly simple solution. I placed a piece of thick cardboard on the front of the remote covering the display and about the same lenght on the keyboard part. Then I used regular tape to attache the cardboard to the surface of both the display and the keyboard section. On the keyboard PCB i put a piece of tape around it all to secure it.

This was very helpfull when I removed the PCB and display from the housing, and when I removed the remains of double sided tape from the edges on the back of the display.

However I had to remove it when I remounted the parts as there is need for some flexing in the lenght direction when putting in the PCB after the display has been secured in place with new double sided tape.

I did not get to take anymore pictures in the process, as some of it was very fiddly to work on.

But to sum up I cleaned all the mechanical parts like rubber keys, aluminum top and housing. Also I gave the housing af fresh layer of black spray paint to cover some of the dents it had on it.

After that I remounted the IR PCB with the best of the battery cases, and connected the Keyboard PCB. This parts was very tricky when the IR PCB is already mounted. Maybe a better way would be to connect the PCB’s and then mount it all in one operation?

Anyway, after putting it all back together I am pleased to announce that I now have a Beolink 5000 with working 2way functionality and no missing lines in the display

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

ChristianLJ wrote:

I have the correct belt in stock, write me a message if still needed 🙂

Hello Christian

Thanks for letting me know. I have yet to get the two way functionality to work, so have not come to the rubber belt part yet. I will get in touch if I am going to need it

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and welcome to the Beoworld forums.

First of try to take a look in this thread I have made about the Apple remote and B&O TV’s https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/apple-tv-siri-remotes-and-ir-beovision/ . This should give som insight in the possibilities of the Apple remote combined with a B&O TV.

 

There are different approches to your issue as I see it, and some of them might depend on how you prefer to use your system.

BangOlufsenEnjoyer wrote:

I bought a Beovision 8-32 used, and set it up with an Apple TV via HDMI. I put it on AV1 in the menu as a DVD player.

The problem is that my old Beo4 remote does not have a DVD button, but I’ve programmed it so I have CDV button under the list which makes the TV switch over to the correct input. This works okay, but is a bit annoying.

In everyday use, my Beovision TV defaults to the TV signal input when turned on, and has to be switched over manually to the HDMI input via the DVD/CDV «button». What I’m hoping to achieve, is the possibility of the TV automatically displaying the HDMI input as a default when turned on.

First of you should be able to turn on the TV by selecting the CDV command from the list and pressing GO, which should hopefully make the BV8 start on the HDMI source assigned to the DVD command.

 

BangOlufsenEnjoyer wrote:

Alternatively, if HDMI as the default displayed input is not possible, I wonder if anyone knows a more convenient button on the old Beo4 remote that can be programmed to one of the HDMI input modes on the Beovision 8-32. A single physical button would be a whole lot more convenient than navigating the LIST button each time.

This will of course be easier with a newer type of BEO4 with the dedicated DVD button. Note that the BEO4 version with a little joystick instead of the GO button might not be compatible with the BV8-32.

In both instances this will work the best if you turn of the the “Turn on TV” setting on the Apple TV or else it will send the B&O “TV” command the first time you press a command on the Apple remote.

 

To get a more smooth operation you have to possible solutions as I see it

1. Control both BV8 and Apple TV with BEO4
2. Control both BV8 and Apple TV with Apple Remote

For option number 1 you will have to use the built in PUC system in the BV8 which will give you the ability to relay IR commands from the BV8 to the Apple TV with a little IR sender that has to be placed on the front of the Apple TV. Your BV8 might not have the PUC code for an Apple TV, but this can be updated by a B&O dealer. Alternativly you can use any other PUC code and let the Apple TV learn theses commands.

For option number 2 the HDMI input has to be assigned for the “TV” command as this is the only one the Apple remote is sending to turn on a B&O TV. I am not sure if this is possible on the BV8-32 and might also depend on software version. But in short if it works you will have to turn of both the analog and digital TV tuner in the service menu to free up the TV command. Then you should be able to assign the TV command to the HDMI input.

Hope this input is usefull, and please writhe back if you need more info on some of the options I have described, then I or an other forum member might be able to help you get it up and running.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Update – I received the cable from eBay (9 PIN Mini AV to 3 RCA – Yellow, Red, White) and tried to connect my GameCube to the BV11 with that cable but it didn’t work.  All I got was a buzzing noise and a blank screen when I switched the GameCube on.  I’ll have to keep looking for the official B&O SCART adapter.

You might have to get the official cable (or get one made). Probably none of the other cables you can buy are made for use as an AV input cable for a few B&O TV models. It seems that the mini din among other things has been used as an output connector on Sega Genesis consols and the pinout used for them is different (even between models) https://tms-rgb.com/guideOutput.html, so if the cables you can buy are intended for that use they might be no good as B&O AV input.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I also got this error today, and ended up attaching files instead of inserting pictures in the Beolink 5000 repair thread. In the same thread Guy have inserted pictures without issues

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

skolesen wrote:

I normally use this 3M300LSE double sided tape to reattach the aluminium ring back to the keypad.
At the attached picture how its used.

If the aluminium ring isn’t lose I’ii leave it on the keypad when cleaning in warter with dishwash soap.

/steffen

Thanks Steffen. I have just taken out one aluminum ring because it had a big scratch and the keypad it is sitting in has cracks. This ring did not seem to have any glue, but the back had the same surface as the top, so it can be used as a replacement after all.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I just dug out an old BL5000 keyboard (actually one that Beoworld member Leslie sent me many years ago) and prised out the metal circle with a guitar plectrum.  It came out quite easily, but looks like it was originally  glued in place:

Thank you very much for testing 🙂 Will try to do that when I start washing the keypads.

Location: Denmark

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