[Madskp]

I just tried to do a factory reset of my MK2 Playmaker to refresh my memory of the setup proces.

Initially I tried to use the B&O app for setup. But if I add a new product and choose Playmaker the B&O app says to go to wireless settings and choose the wireless network with Playmaker in it’s name. If I do that and go back to the app I still get the same message. I can see this is also the case for Beolit 12 which I belive is based on the same platform.

So I guees the app is not fully updated for setup of these products anymore.

Instead of the app I tried to go to the setup webpage mentioned in the manual

http://169.254.11.22/ But had no luck getting there. I tried with an IP scanner on my phone to find the correct IP and it turns out it was http://192.168.1.1

(I am not sure why this is not as mentioned in the manual, but maybe a difference between MK1 and MK2 or something that has changed with an software update.)

from the setuppage I could setup the Playmaker to use my wireless network and it is now active again.

hope this is helpfull for setup of a playmaker

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Another option could be a Beosystem 4 although it might be more expensive and more seldom show up used.

As that is NL based it could probably solve your source issues in the ML part of the system

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great to har you solved the issue. Very possible something to do with the data wire in the particular A.Aux cable (loose connection, bad shielding etc.). The reason you do not have the issue with the Beolink Passive is probably because that do not utilise the Datalink connection when the Passive is just used as an amp.

Regarding the digital conenctions. On newer Beovisions in the connection menu setup you have to choose if you wan’t to use digital audio for the connection you are setting up. I don’t know if it’s the same on the BV7, but reading about it in the reference book for the BV7 sort of indicates that when I read about AV4.

Of course there can also be specific software versions with issues in this regard. I am no sure if a full software revision overview is available anywhere

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello again

One last thing you can try to verify if the IR receiving part on the Beolab 3500 is working is to try to do an option setting.

Do the sequence LINK, 6, STORE on the Beolink 1000

If it works the Beolab 3500 should respond with Option 6 in the display

(Note: if the Beolab 3500 is a MK2 version this only work if it is connected with a Masterlink audiosystem like your BS3000. An easy way to see if it is an MK1 or MK2 version is to look at the 8 pin DIN connector on the back. MK1 will have MCL engraved into the metal below the connector whereas MK2 has no engraving).

If you still got no response from the Beolab 3500 the IR receiver is much likely not working. A known fix is to replace to capacitors on the display board. There is a great guide for that in this post https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-sometimes-responds-to-remote-control-sometimes-it-doesnt/#post-52572

The fix involves disassembly and soldering of very small components

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

As for the buzzing noise in my Penta’s when the display changes – I’m now 90% sure it’s the 1611 Converter that is causing this.  When I used my Beosound 4 instead of Beocenter 9500 (and therefore did not need toe 1611), I never got the buzzing noise.  If I select a source on my Beovision 7 and change channel or volume etc, I don’t get the buzzing noise.  I only get the buzzing noise when an audio source is selected, so it’s coming through thew BC9500 and the 1611 converter.

I have my 1611 connected by both A.Aux able and Powerlink (Mk3) cable.  I unplugged the Powerlink cable to test if that got rid of the buzzing, but it didn’t.

It’ll take some effort because my cables are all routed and hidden, but I’ll try and switch out some of the cables between the 9500, the 1611 and the Pentas, in case one of them has a fault.  It’s also possible I suppose that my 1611 has a fault.

Just to understand this issue correctly I asume that the Pentas are connected to the BV7?

It could be good idea to try with different cables. For Powerlink cables note that MK2 Powerlink cables can be hard to identify. I have a cable I originally thought was a MK2, but turns out it is not as it does not have the Pin 1 connection.

Btw for this setup you can also use a 1614 converter if you have one for testing (I think you mentioned it in another thread)?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

One thing I’ve noticed from this set up though – when I select a source, or change the volume, or press any button really, I get series of between 1 and 3 short quiet buzz noises coming from the speakers.  It seems to happen with any button press, whether by remote, or on the Beocenter panel itself.  Probably caused by the 1611 converter as I never got that before noise before I connected that, but I wonder if anyone knows the cause?

Does this also happen when the Moment is not connected?

I have noticed this behaviour in some situations where I have done some testing with unofficial setups, but that was cases where data was involved which I guess is not the case between the Moment and the Tape2 port on the BC9500?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

JeffC wrote:

Thanks for the help.  My old eyes didn’t see that two were screws and I am not sure I would have drawn that conclusion even if I had seen them.  With some readers and an eyeglass screwdriver, I was able to remove the pins, plug the CD into the tape main port and play a CD.  I don’t get datalink auto controls, but at least everything works.  Which is mostly fine since I don’t have a Beogram turntable either.

Great to hear that you worked it out 🙂

JeffC wrote:

Since I only have one tape port, though, I am starting to think I will want to upgrade to a later model so that I can get datalink, remote features, etc.  Maybe.   Plus have a dedicated CD port and be able to use the tape port for the Beocord 8004

Since you already have the Beogram CD4500 a Beomaster 4500 could be a great candidate as it is the same design, but also because it has several inputs, datalink control, built in amplifier, but also Powerlink connections for active speakers, remote capabilities (with the right software version also 2 way remote control for Beolink 5000 and Beolink 7000 remotes), link capabilities for use in a system with a Beovision TV and/or the link rooms.

Of course other models can also be used functionality wise.

JeffC wrote:

I got into the B&O world by accident.  I had gotten rid of my hi-fi equipment years ago because it was old and not working well and I never used it.  Many years later the kids got me a turntable for Christmas (because I got rid of the equipment but kept the media – go figure).  They didn’t realize I needed a receiver and speakers to make it work.  A buddy had the Beomaster 3000-2 that a client had given him.  He passed it on to me and after I found a set of speakers (Pentas that needed refoaming and that were a bit rough but only $50) I was off to the races.

Sound like you already have caught the Beovirus share by many members on this site 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

In some cases it is possible to unscree pin 6 and 7 in the din connector with af small flat  headed screw driver. That willsolve the datalink communication issue you experience because the datalink communication is shared between the Tape and Phono connection.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

If it has been used in a setup with a Beovision TV before it is very likely that it is setup to option 0 (no IR)

So first thing is to try to set it to option1 instead.

With a beolink 1000 it is done by pressing Sound, 1, Store

If you have a Beo4 remote press the Standby button and LIST at the same time. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown in the display. Then press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1.

The Beocenter will blink with the red LED to confirm the option setting change

Hope this helps

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:

I’ve heard a lot of people complain about the playmaker over the years? What exactly is bad about it?

Based on other threads Wifi stability seems to be an issue. It has only 2,4ghz wifi channels and only one antenna in the bottom of the unit so this might affect the performance.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Sorry I am not able to give you any further input as I have yet to start the repair in my own CD50, but am following with interest.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I do no think it is possible to configure it through a app any longer.

You might need to factory reset it to be able to acces the IP adress in a browser as it has probably been used with another IP where it was setup before.

The factory reset procedure can be found in the manual here https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041401332-Playmaker

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Sam Long wrote:

im going to persevere I think. I have my beolink 1000 and the sounds heavenly.com instructions. My only problem is that the beolab doesn’t seem to respond to my beolink. Do I need to pair them or something?

No need for pairing

Since you are mentioning the sounds heavenly.com instructions I guess you mean the MENU MENU 0 4 PLAY combination? This should work regardless of how the Beolab 3500 is setup.

Normal source commands like CD and Radio however will not always work unless it is connected with a B&O Masterlink sound system.

Can you confirm that the Beolink 1000 is working? You can should be able to se the IR light when a key is pressed through the front camera on a phone.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello Sergio. I have tried contacting you a couple of times through the private message function regarding sending the package with the Audiokit for the AV 9000. So in case you haven’t got any notifications about these messages here is a heads up.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I guess it comes down to the number of available sources in a Masterlink setup, and the workarounds we tried in that other thread is not enough to overcome this fact.

One extra possible workaround that comes to mind is if the Moment can be set to something like Option 4 where it only responds to Link + commands. I do not know if that is even a thing since it is a NL product. But if that works you could use it through the Tape 2 input without double commands.

I know other members have taken the more equipment heavy route with seperate NL/ML converters for each ML source. An example of this is this post where user Tignum has a drawing of his system with several NL/ML converters https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/possible-to-use-two-ml-nl-converters-instead-of-ml-cable/#post-62861

That way it is possible to rename sources across the converters and choose which sources are available where, still with the limitation of the max number of available ML sources in each ML subsystem.

I have not tried this myself, but there are several threads with examples like this on the forum

Hope this helps solving the issue

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might be able to find some hints in this guide that also has a lot of pictures and recommandations for capacitor replacements

https://beolover.blogspot.com/2021/06/beogram-cd50-typical-restoration-steps.html?m=1

• This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by Madskp.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Use Masterlink to connect the BS4 to a Beolink Active 1636 (and IR sensor – the ‘hockey puck’ type) co-located with the Denon amp.  Then use a cable like this to connect the BL Active’s Powerlink output to the Denon amp’s aux input.  If the BS4 and Denon amp are in the same room, put the BS4 in A.OPT 0 and remote control it through the BL Active’s IR sensor.  You will have a double volume control situation, able to control volume with either the B&O remote or the Denon amp (but not via the volume buttons on the BS4).

I would also suggest that spolution as a possiblity. One way to avoid the double volume control is to use the fixed audio output in the PC connector on the Beolink active (only type 1636). This will need some custom cabling at the pinout of this conenction is not the same as the Powerlink outputs. See this thread for more info about the pinpout https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-active-1636-pc-input/#post-43100

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hakan kutluk wrote:

Hallo friend

I have exactly the same problem. I have changed the optical laser, nothing has changed, this time test code shows the “7” wich means data transfer problems.

CD spins but doesnt play. Next thing I’m going to do is to recap but I’m not sure if it’s gonna work.

Hello. I did not have any error codes as far as I remember, but changing only the laser did not solve my initial problem that it could not play a CD.

After recapping it started playing CD’s again, and based on other members experiences a combination of both recapping and laser replacing might be needed.

Hakan kutluk wrote:

Did you have any success in the mean time?

Well my problem where I have to press CD twice has re appered. I have tried to clean all the gears and reapply new grease, but that did not change anything.

I have found out that one of my other defect Ouvertures has the same servo board so I might try to make some mix and match to see if anything changes.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:

Also I recently found a servicemanual on Archive.org that among a lot of MCL2 link equipment also cover the Audiokit for AV9000.

Here is a direct link for the servicemanual on archive.org https://ia904506.us.archive.org/11/items/manual_MCL2AV_SM_BANGOLUFSEN_EN/MCL2AV_SM_BANGOLUFSEN_EN.pdf

It describes how the Audiokit should be setup in regards of option settings

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not sure if you are asking for help or just being frustrated.

But regarding the PUC list for Beovision 10 this has never been user upgradeable to my knowlegde, so you might need to find a dealer who can help with upgrading the PUC list to get the Apple TV PUC on your set

Location: Denmark

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