[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

So, off at a slight tangent, I have the offer of an s video cable, will that remove the need for the scart lead? Also, with 2 of the bv 10-40  scart sockets ,adjacent to them are s video sockets and PUC sockets, dumb question, if the s video cable replaces the scart lead, would I need to use  a PUC with the tv as well(I think not!!)

Yes you could do that, but you would also need to utilise the audio socket and the CTRL sockets. The manual describes to connect to the corrosponding sockets on the TV. In my opinion the scart cable is a simpler solution where all is in the same cable.

[Madskp]

machineage wrote:

Of the two 22uF caps – in circuit C1 is measuring 12.2uF, and C4 16.4uF. Neither are S/C. I’ll place some on order!

Ok so slightly of specs. interesting to hear if it helps replacing them or if the short on the resistor did more damage than on it self. I could be a little worried about the IC

[Madskp]

machineage wrote:

Hi all! Why did it take me so long to acquire a BeoSound Century… I LOVE this thing! Got it for my Mum who’s in her 80s, she wants to listen to CDs again… 🥰 I bought it in the knowledge it wasn’t receiving IR instructions. Having done the usual Standby > Sound > 1 > Store without success, I suspected the IR PCB caps, a known issue. Having removed the board, I found this! Looks like R13 (820K) has committed an act of immolation, and R9 (10K) looks to have blown its top! Has anyone come across anything like this before? I wonder what could have caused it? Thoughts welcome 🙂

Yes the Century is a very nice unit. I had one for several years, but parted with it at one time when I started implementing Sonos for streaming music. I might consider getting one again at one point though.

One thought about your issue, the caps a notorius for failing i some of B&O’s IR receivers. I would think that if C4 is failed it could actually be shorted and it could make some trouble for R9 and R13, but I do not know if other parts can affect this or have been affected by it like the IC.

I also notice something between R9 and R13 that looks like corrosion and might be touching another trace. Maybe check if there is a short there, and the scrape it away and clean it.

Hope this can be helpfull and maybe other members can chime in

 

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

Just reprogrameb the BC2 via opt 1 then opt0 it now doesn’t switch on, had to reprog the tv, that now works but when called the radio doesn’t Do I now reconnect the m/link and scart and retry?

Ok sound like the option programming is right for the BC2 then. I think the TV will not react to the radio command if there is a connection problem between the Beovision and the Beocenter. I will suggest that you try with only the Masterlink cable as the scart should only be for DVD functionlity.

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

Audio reset  —  I read in the masterlink manual that it is best to commence by aud option 1 then aud opt 0  –  I have tried this to no avail hence my other questions!

Ok, I understand, and that should be correct. Also one thing you could check is to see if the BC2 is actually in option 0 by disconnecting both scart and Masterlink and see if it reacts to remote commands which it should not do in option 0.

I also have a BC2 and sometimes after disconnecting af reconnecting power to it I might have to do the option settings again. Not sure why, but at least i my case it seems a little stubborn to keep the option settings.

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

The interconnection between the head unit and the box appears to be ok as the head unit shows the radio channel, now my question is, is the problem lkely to be in the masterlink connections, I assume control signals pass by that or is it by the scart system?

This sounds a little odd. The signals should be carried by the Masterlink connection, but since your BC2 is reacting to the controls maybe it is not in option 0 after all? Maybe try to isolate the problem by unhooking the scart connection, althoug I would only think that this would be for DVD control signals.

stotty1111 wrote:

having gone through audio reset ie audio -1, it all worked!

I am also a little confused what you mean by this?

[Madskp]

I have just updated the first post with the new information

[Madskp]

Great info 😀 I will try to update the first post with your findings shortly.

I have yet to update my Apple TV 4/HD to a newer version so nice that you can provide the info 😀

[Madskp]

Steph wrote:

In 2024, a restored Beosound Ouverture as a main stereo system? Yes, I confirm! 😄

A nicesystem indeed especially if the CD part of the Ouverture is in working condition 🙂

[Madskp]

Steph wrote:

I am ready to buy a second hand Beosound for a secondary room. 2 options for me: BS 4 or BS Moment to pair with BL4 speakers. Same price, same condition (very good), i use Deezer, CDs and also SD cards. I like the design and features of both. What do you think? Which one would be more “futureproof” for the next ten years?

Reading other threads about the moment the tablet part of it might be prone to failure and is a hard repair.

As for the BS4 they might need some service if you do not find a unit that already has been service. One thing is the coating that tends to get sticky and takes some work to remove. Also a new belt for the glass door mechanism might be needed.

If you do require SD card playback that and Beosound 3 might be the only options from B&O besides the Beosond 2 MP3 player, but none of those have CD.

[Madskp]

A little suplement to Guy’s answer:

The Beocenter 7700 do not use the same IR control codes as the BS9000 and can therefor not be remote controlled with a BEO4 or Beolink 1000 unless you have a code converter box. If not this might not be that easy to aquire today.

So assuming you do not have this code converter you will not have conflicting remote control as the BC7700 will not respond to the BEO4 and has to be operated seperatly or by it’s own Beocenter terminal or Master control panel 7700.

No matter how if you do the connection via the 1612 or the AUX socket on the BS9000 you should not be worried about simultainiuos audio output as the BS9000 switch away from the input used for the BC7700 when playing CD or Radio.

[Madskp]

If you are going to just test something the 7 PIN audio AUX cable can work as a full wired powerlink cable. I Usually do this when I need to test something where a fully wired powerlink cable is required.

[Madskp]

Tobias Toft wrote:

Hey folks. I’ve been following this thread closely (thank you!),

Great to hear that the thread is usefull 🙂

Tobias Toft wrote:

As soon as I adjust the volume on the BS4, either via the front panel or the Beo 4, the red stand by led comes on and the display freezes on “Volume XX”. I can turn the unit on and off, it responds to remote commands, and generally does what it needs to do, but the display never updates. The only thing that will refresh the display is if I press “Menu” on the front panel, which will allow me to traverse the menu system. However, when I exit out of the menu it clears the display and stays blank when I turn the unit on, off, select sources, adjust volume, etc. Unplugging the power and plugging it back will reset things, but as soon as I adjust the volume on a video source it freezes up again. Has anybody seen this? Is it a known software bug on the early versions of the Beosound 4?

I can’t say that I have much experience with the BS4. However I would suggest that you try to isolate the problem by removing the ML connection to for example the 1611 and the MLGW to see if the problem persist. Hope this is helpfull

[Madskp]

Just got a mail from Kickstarter earlier today that the project did not reach it’s funding goals. Too bad.

No word from Hall Audio yet as far as I am aware. It will be interesting to hear if the plan on releasing the product anyway

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

and the Beosystem 3 into either 0 or 1, the Beosystem 3 does power up if I select a video source, such as DTV.  My Beosound 4 display shows that source, and the channel number, so it would appear to be ‘working’.

I wonder if you can do the option setting via the IR eye on another product. I am not sure that will work.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

However, I am getting no video signal out of it.  It’s a Mk2 so it has DVI outputs rather than HDMI but I have a DVI-HDMI adapter connected, and then I have connected it to a normal PC monitor just to test it.  I am getting no video signal.  I have tried Format 0 on the Beo4 remote to switch between TV and cinema mode, and I have tried both of the DVI outputs, but I am getting nothing.  The power LED is on, but I get no display.

I think what happens is that the BS4 is activating the BS3 to get the sound from it, but since it does not need the picture the BS3 might just start up picture muted. You could try to do the same scenario with the BS4 and your BV7 in the same option settings to see what happens.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I have a spare IR eye but don’t have the right type of cable for it (3.5mm jack), but I see that Steve at Sounds Heavenly sells those, so I’ll order one and see if I have any luck with that.

If you any cable with a 3.5mm stereo minijack in one end you could cut it up and use that to conenct. Of course you can not rely on the color coding then, but if you have a multimeter you can measure which part of the 3.5mm minijack goes to which wire.

 

 

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

my understanding was that the Phono and Tape 2 input buttons would work dependent on what was connected to that input – if you had the Beogram 4500 connected to it, you would be able to control that by remote, and likewise if you had a B&O external tape deck connected instead.

I can verify to that. This only has to do with the control. There is only one physical input for either Phone or tape2.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

One way to extend the inputs would be to add a B&O MCL2AV link room system which you would connect to the Aux input of the 9300.  You could then connect your internet box and REVOX tapecorder to that, and switch to them using LINK room commands on your B&O remote.

While this is entirely possible (i just tested it) the control would be very clunky.

First you would have to activate the AUX input with for example the TV command

Then to activate one of the inputs on the MCL2AV (which should be set top L.OPT 4 for this to work) you would have to press Link + shift + radio + 6 (for tape) / 7 (for CD) since the MCL2AV only can adress the inputs with CD or TAPE commands if it is B&O datalink units that are connected.

The If you would regulate the volume on the BC9300 you would have to press TV again before you can use the volume control.

So possible but clunky.

I do not have a better solution by now other than some kind of manually operated switch box to divide one of the inputs in to two.

[Madskp]

About the customer menu I just tried accesing it on my V1 by pressing menu, choose setup, press red and press go, and come right into the Customer service menu. However there is nothing regarding siftware updating there

[Madskp]

I just looked at the software install instruction for the V1 and it says: Unzip the two files and place in the root directory (not in a folder) of a USB stick

It sounds like you only have one file? I think there should also be an XML file

Another thought is if the TV can see the USB stick. Have you tried to put a media file on it and go into the Home media source to see if it is visible?

 

 

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

If my BS4 is in standby and I select a main source such as CD in the Beoport app, then the source displays on the BS4 display, the CD spins and plays, but my Beloab Pentas do not power up – there’s no sound.  If I select a TV source such as DTV, then my BV7’s display shows that source in its display, but the screen does not come on, and no sound is heard.  They will then only go into standby if I hold down the standby button on my Beo4, for the ‘All Off’ command.

It sounds like the Beoport is  working like a link room and fetching the sources from the the BS4 and the TV to play on it’s local speakers (I don’t suppose you have any connected to it?) which explains why the BS4 and TV starts up muted.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I get the same results no matter what I try.  So frustrating considering it definitely used to work – I cannot understand why it has stopped working.

I am not sure why either. In my earlier post in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-pc2-beoport-how-to-set-up-and-use/#post-57453 there was a setup described where the music system had to be in option 0 for it to work, but as far as I can read you got it working anyway.

I can try to do a test with my Beoport and Beocenter 2 later this week to see if I can get it to work

[Madskp]

@Guy: Pin 3 and 5 for left and right signal should be correct

Edit: But I see the point that in a female DIN connector the pins are reversed.

[Author]

Posts