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I should also point out that the type 1636 (EU) replaced the 1611.
In fact, all type 161x converters were replaced with 163x units when one was purchased. In other words if a 1611 (EU) converter failed, it must be replaced by a 1636 (EU)
This afternoon I have spent some time searching my boxes of manuals related to all the B&O converters. I have found a circuit diagram for type 1636 which is attached.
28 November 2023 at 16:34 in reply to: Conversion kit Beolab 4000 to Sonos electronics with Trueplay #47310I am now a gold member and my main site profile state that but not on this forum? What its wrong?
Nothings wrong. Thank you for becoming a gold member
As with every product the difficulty lies mostly one the financial risk. Nowadays the usual go-to-market duties besides the development itself can leave a huge hole in your pockets. Especially when sold internationally it can easily screw up your whole product pricing if you are not selling it in large numbers. Not even to mention customer support and marketing.
I agree with your point here that is why most small product developers appoint a distributor, then you are only dealing with your distributor, not hundreds of end users.
In my view your “Private Project” has great commercial potential.
Oh by the way, is Canada the same spec as the US?
YES.. Both Canada and the US have the same phone system.
The Beocom 1 is the US only version of the Beocom 6000. It has different software loaded on it and has some different functionality such as having two phone line connections.
Not sure what you mean by your statement “now that I am using Wi-Fi in my apartment” in relation to your question?
The sticker images in each posting you made look the same to me…
The type 8870 must I assume be a later version..
Peter Pans Hjemmebio, – interface – tips & tricks will not be forgotten HERE
Check out your “old” latest addictions HERE
Type number 8686 and 9687 are the same UK product.
I don’t know what Type 8870 is, but it is not an AVANT 85
7 June 2023 at 08:55 in reply to: BeoLab 8000: request for very first version of the Service Manual #47040If you expand the physical board layout and the drawing you see that the printed circuit track layout is quite different in the area of concern.
i was also a Gold Member and and had a F as Founder, but now only Bronze Member. Thanks Theo
You are a Gold and Founder Member
Your Membership ID is 554 of 50,229
Your Founder Membership ID is 160 of 500
Ernst,
Thank you for your feedback and I have to say it is a difficult problem to understanding based on the information we have to date.
Having said that the basic circuit operates otherwise the system would not trigger with the impedance of your multimeter. This leads me to think that we have a high resistance or open ground connection within the auto start circuit.
At the start of this thread you did mention that the unit was dead with no red light and after you put everything back together you got the red light meaning there was some connection made which was previously not made.
I suggest you check all the ground connections that use plug and socket connections particular associated with the auto start circuit. With the power off and your meter set to resistance connect one meter lead to plug 7 pin 2 as shown below and then check all other ground points have a connection i.e. no resistance.
I have gone back again and reviewed everything that has been done to date.
A couple of questions came up:-
- When you use the multi-meter which triggered the relay and you heard music, did the LED go green?
- In the last post where you measured 52 volts was that with signal connected to the RCA socket?
It is clear that the problem is in the auto-start circuit and nothing to do with the relay circuit area.
Going back to where you were testing at D1 you said:-
- Interestingly, with the red probe on the top and the black on the bottom: the relay clicks, the Amp turns on and music can be heard coming from the speakers.
Can you please go back and see if you can reproduce this situation.
I’m joining the choir of Gold members showing as Bronze member in the forum.
Apologies, now corrected.
Soon the software to renew/upgrade and payment will be implemented directly on the forum which will remove the current manual process.
Hey – I also show as Bronze member but am in reality Gold member. I am sure the programming will work out at some point.
Apologies that you got missed which I have now addressed.
Keith..
Question I assume, there is something wrong with the auto-start and RCA combination. Please advise, what I can do next?
I agree as I previously said…
I cannot help you at present because I am travelling and therefore without circuit diagrams etc.. I will be back from New York late next week..
(I will note, it is a shame that known probable fixes for problems are squirreled away behind memberships. Hardly in a good natured spirit of helping people really)
We would not be here at all to help you and other people if members did not pay to become silver and gold members.
Keith..
Before going into possible circuit problems, lets look at the simple things first.
Is it possible that the switch is set to “left” or “right” rather than “line”?
Well, that certainly looks very clean, perhaps even new form?
What is the 4 digit type number of your Beolab 4000?
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