[hcraig244]

This is what was living beneath the bottom cover…….

[hcraig244]

Side panels have also had a clean up and a coat of primer applied…..

[hcraig244]

Cabinet top veneer finished, shame to stain it actually….I quite like the iroko wood grain, but will have to match the Beolab or it will look odd.

[hcraig244]

I can see and click on the links to the pictures in my archived threads……I think they are all there?

[hcraig244]

Oh…..and this has arrived from Frede……such excellent work, was a little miffed at having to pay import duty on it now that we are free from the EU ;¬)

[hcraig244]

This is a slow and painstaking exercise requiring a lot of sanding and swearing…….cant hurry the glue drying process either….

[hcraig244]

I’ve decided on this african iroko veneer…..will need to stain it in order to darken it down to match the Beogram 5000 it will be paired with 

[hcraig244]

made a start on the cabinet top, was in a bit of a mess so re shaped the smashed corners ready for veneering…..

[hcraig244]

this is the internals…..was sold as “restored by seller”…………..

[hcraig244]

I’m pretty sure the dust cover is meant to close under the spring tension, mine does and I think its normal operation…..lifting the lid manually and the spring closes it ;¬)

Craig

[hcraig244]

Are you sure its not the 21vdc that is fed from PCB2 ?

I have had a problem with the voltage regulator for the 21vdc in  the past

Craig

[hcraig244]

Making a start on “the low hanging fruit”, to quote a project manager I once worked with. A friend of mine spent some time cleaning up the curser.  Interestingly this piece isn’t anodised like the face plate, which is probably why it oxidised so badly, I’m told that one can determine if something has been anodised by the use of a multimeter set to ohms……if something is anodised it wont conduct?….I will test this. New felt pads will be included too.

[hcraig244]

Sold as fully functional…….however I think a bit of cleaning (quite a bit actually) and replacing of dried out capacitors will be required before power is connected, some replacement veneer too I’m thinking

[hcraig244]

Its in a bit of a state…..looks like its been through the wars

[hcraig244]

So ready to be returned to its home……been quite a journey, the success is largely due to Manfys inspiration and guidance  regarding the voltage regulator and toroidal transformer.

Its good to know that a failed transformer isn’t the end of the road for a BG4000

[hcraig244]

Played over the weekend without fault………

[hcraig244]

Installed the voltage regulator, bolted to the chassis, no additional heatsink required….gave her a spin and nothing is getting more than lukewarm….Martin recommends removing 2TR6 from the circuit board due to overheating causing the 6vdc supply to become unstable…..so I’m good with this, good test required and that should be that!

[hcraig244]

Resistor received, however I ordered a 3w component and received a 25w instead……bit overkill but quite adequate….

[hcraig244]

As I’m now down to 1 bridge rectifier I thought it would be wise to check a few things out before I do a lengthy test run:

Output from the new 6vdc regulator = 160ma under operating load

Output from the existing 24vdc regulator (0tr1) = 440ma under operating load

The transformer arms are good for 1.25A so I think we’re good to go, the bridge rectifier is rated at 3.7A. I will monitor the temperatures of all components, TR1 particularly though the data sheet says its good for 80w (seems high to me).

Also I have ordered a 33 ohm 3w resistor to see if I can drop all the heat over it instead of the regulator, I can then fasten the resistor to the chassis for cooling……

[hcraig244]

Tried a 22 ohm resistor in line with the regulator and this dropped the input voltage to a little over 10vdc…the heat dissipated by the regulator has dropped and the resistor is doing some of the work….

[Author]

Posts