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hcraig244
SILVER MemberIf your getting 4.7vdc at the points above then your getting the correct voltage to energise the solenoid, unsolder the wires and check the resistance of the coil…it may be open circuit which could be our probem…let us know the reading..
Craig
hcraig244
SILVER Memberhcraig244
SILVER Memberhcraig244
SILVER MemberCant beat the original hardware in my “black and white” world…..sold complete with all the service information required to maintain it through it’s lifetime…..designed to be maintained/repaired by pretty much anyone with a soldering iron…..over engineered? yes delightfully so…buy anything today and all you get is a QR code on the box inviting you to download a quick start guide in twenty languages 😲
hcraig244
SILVER MemberThis done I had to have a listen……..all sounds and looks healthy.
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SILVER MemberThis done, and bearing in mind the numerous adjustments made, the pickup arm lowering limit needed checking and as suspected it was falling below the level of the lower ridges on the platter….disastrous for the stylus should the detector arm fail and allow a drop onto a platter with no disc……easy adjustment which did have to out followed by setting the stylus force for the SP15 which should be 1.0 gram. The dial was set around 1.25 and sure enough my scale did read above 1.25g….I struggled to get a good image of these, set it to 1.0g and to be fair the scale on the pickup was very close to the 1.0g setting…..
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SILVER MemberGot the platter level with the aluminium trim and also central to an acceptable point
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SILVER MemberI’m taking the view that the 8000 is very similar to the three off 8002’s that I have very recently worked on….one of which had that self same problem, firstly I would suggest you upgrade to silver which will give you access to the service manual for this machine. If you read my thread “Beogram 4000 and also BG8002″ you will find the section regarding a tone arm that wouldn’t drop (feel free to look….3 people have done so already) check you are getting the required 5.0 vdc to the solenoid when it reaches the drop point…..the thread details where to measure assuming you have a meter to do so…..let me know
Craig
hcraig244
SILVER MemberI’m taking the view that the 8000 is very similar to the three off 8002’s that I have very recently worked on….one of which had that self same problem, firstly I would suggest you upgrade to silver which will give you access to the service manual for this machine. If you read my thread “Beogram 4000 and also BG8002″ you will find the section regarding a tone arm that wouldn’t drop (feel free to look….3 people have done so already) check you are getting the required 5.0 vdc to the solenoid when it reaches the drop point…..the thread details where to measure assuming you have a meter to do so…..let me know
Craig
hcraig244
SILVER Memberthe floating chassis also requires some adjustment to bring it flush to the deck plate…
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SILVER Memberback of the platter needs to come up a little….some adjustments later this was the best I could do
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SILVER MemberOne of my least enjoyable adjustments is the platter height, never have got it bang on despite trying many times on many machines…there just never seems to be the required adjustment afforded by the “slogger” in the threads between the bearing and the lock nut…the theory is good but in practice is very tricky to achieve…my tip….ensure the set screws are protruding a good amount below the lock nut to give them the most leverage…
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This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by
hcraig244.
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SILVER MemberQuick adjustment of the 33rpm trimmer I replaced, was a little high but adjusted down nicely….the Beolovers patent tacho I purchased some years ago helped give the required accuracy.
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SILVER MemberOnce satisfied there’s nothing for it but to commit to the bend, there’s only one chance…..will need to apply glue and epoxy but given where we started I’m calling this a win.
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SILVER MemberOn with the dust cover repair…the epoxy has cured and after a little cleaning up im quite happy with the joins so time for the new trim, getting everything central is key….
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SILVER Memberhcraig244
SILVER MemberSet up the electrical adjustments…slow slide transports left and right, should be between 2.5vdc and 3.0vdc. Looked good to me so went with both as is.
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SILVER MemberMeanwhile the dust cover needs some attention, firstly clean all the old adhesive left by the tape fitted previously, IPA is the weapon of choice. I’m very reluctant to disturb further the previous attempt at a repair and have decided to attempt to reinforce it instead, trying to remove the epoxy glued screws would almost certainly result in more damage leaving less material to work with…some nylon matrix super glued over the cleaned up repair and some epoxy applied to the hinge on the underside….when I fit the new aluminium trim I will apply epoxy on top of the matrix and use the trim to further re-in force the repair….the main section of trim will be glued with aleenes tacky glue as I think that will be adequate.
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SILVER MemberAll the components now replaced….going to go ahead and replace the lamps in the control panel when they arrive from Martin, also the new pulley wheel to fit.
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SILVER MemberTransport slider contacts next up…..the plastic actuators that operate these switches have caused me grief in the past…I foolishly put silicone grease on them which, given their very light operating pressures, where getting held up by the viscosity of the grease causing intermittent errors in the Boolean logic circuits of the control panel……was a long time realising the cause of that one!
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