[hcraig244]

Using 2500 grit carbourundum paper, little more than rough paper, cleaned the control panel switch contacts both sides particularly on the << and >> switches, in the past I have unsoldered the whole assemblies and gold plated them before putting them back….more of an exercise in indulgence on my part than a worthwhile requirement….the work was chronicled here and is probably in the archives somewhere.

 

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[hcraig244]

pully

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[hcraig244]

Our friend has this for half the price….

 

[hcraig244]

Taking a look at the carriage drive pully, that is undoubtedly buckled, I notice a crack in the collar where the tightening grub screw sits….my guess is that this has been overtightened an some point and cracked…allowing the screw to be tightened further with nowhere to go except pushing backwards and warping the pully wheel out of true…while the crack was open I have gave it a coat of epoxy and let it close up again, will leave it overnight and see if its sorted…..the best this would be to replace it with one of the readily available (on ebay I think) aluminium wheels.

 

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[hcraig244]

When replacing the skeleton type trimmers I like to measure the active sides so I can set the new piher trimmers as close as I can for starters, those done and the caps replaced the board is complete

 

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 3 days ago by hcraig244.

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[hcraig244]

I’m suspecting the sticky squares belong under the two 2000uf caps……main PCB up next

 

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[hcraig244]

Happy with this and when tested all still working fine…..I have to confess to not knowing what the two sticky backed squares provided in Martins capacitor kit are for, new one on me….Martin?

 

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[hcraig244]

The two tricky tantalum caps in the multivibrator on off circuit board are also tricky to get out…..

 

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[hcraig244]

Big stuff first….lots of multiple connections in here, not a lot of room either….

 

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by hcraig244.

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[hcraig244]

Sadly the dustcover isn’t doing so well…..been the subject of a repair in the past, still sort of holding together and I will reinforce the existing repair with additional epoxy….the new aluminium strip will lend more support when fitted as it isn’t foil, more sturdy material…..I would be asking around for a doner cover to replace it with, I think I heard of someone fabricating them but not looked into it?

 

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[hcraig244]

Control panel also looks in good shape….there is a tantalum capacitor hiding away in there that sometimes gets missed….

 

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[hcraig244]

The Beogram 4000

Internally looking pretty good, can’t see any footprints anywhere which is encouraging…pully wheel looks wobbly when running, may be buckled, but still works fine.

 

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[hcraig244]

All done and on test…….all three are now ready for collection….BG4000 next!

 

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[hcraig244]

noticed that the teflon/mylar strip for the spring lever has become detached, need to reaffix it…

 

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[hcraig244]

Dust cover fixed bracket is still fixed with the two sided tape…..decided to beef it up with some epoxy to make sure it stayed that way.

 

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[hcraig244]

Dust cover fixed bracket is still fixed with the two sided tape…..decided to beef it up with some epoxy to make sure it stayed that way.

 

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[hcraig244]

With some trepidation I connected everything up and gave it a test……all performed well.

 

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[hcraig244]

The IC canister next…..I had replaced the caps that hide underneath it, learning from the last one!…..this cap is probably the most difficult to access I have ever come across. I cut the old one out retaining the negative leg as long as possible and created a loop on the replacement cap negative leg and hooked it over the existing piece of the old cap…..the positive leg comes out easy enough and the new leg fits in nicely.

 

• This reply was modified 1 month ago by hcraig244.

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[hcraig244]

onto this little lot…….I’ve seen one of these three legged monsters before, maybe in a BM6000….not too sure, nasty things and awkward to get out. And a link is required to connect the negative leg…the last pic doesn’t show the link, soldered it in once i had the replacement cap in place.

 

• This reply was modified 1 month ago by hcraig244.

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[hcraig244]

floating chassis caps first…..easy to get to

 

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