[DT79]

I was trying to figure out the difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 Core and found this thread while searching.  Hope it’s OK to ask some questions here, as remote control is part of it.

I must say that the lack of clear and comprehensive information from B&O is shocking.

If I have this right the Mk1 Core can only be controlled via the app or Beo Remote 1 (via Bluetooth); the Mk2 also allows IR control via a separate IR eye?

Are there any other differences? I’m looking for a s/h Core and want to know whether I need to find a mk2 one or not.

[DT79]

Thanks, I did see that one, but wasn’t sure if the ability to connect the IR eye was the only thing. If it is then I’ll happily just go for a Mk1 which seem to be a little cheaper and more available.

Tignum wrote:

Hi DT79, There was a thread here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/43589.aspx stating the MkII has Type no. 3051. Join-Play version (8089119). The port to plug the IR eye in, can only be the DPL port I reckon? Regards, Johan

[DT79]

thank you!

Millemissen wrote:

Info here Be prepared for a steep learning curve! However, there are numerous thread on the forum about this. MM

[DT79]

thank you once again for your extremely helpful and informative replies.

I have a much better understanding of what’s possible now. If I decide to go this route I would definitely want the convenience of controlling everything from a single remote / the app, so I’d try to find the NL/ML converter. Do I need to know anything else about that? What do the letters stand for?

cheers!

Millemissen wrote:

Two ways to do this… You either connect the output of the Core (using an adapter cable from the PL) to a spare input on the oldschool 7000/9000. or You connect the output of the 7000/9000 (again using an adapter cable from the PL – alternatively from the A.Tape of the 7000) to the input on the Core. However in any case, you will only be able to control the Core part with the app/Beoremote One……not the 7000/9000! The 7000/9000 must be controlled with the Beo4. One advantage of connecting the 7000/9000 to the Core is that the Core has autodetection of the incoming signal = it turns on when the 7000/9000 starts playing. The other way ‘round the 7000/9000 will have to be turned on manually/Beo4. The Transmitter must be connected to where the actual sound output would be. P.S. B&O has made a (now obsolete) ML/NL Converter for connecting these two device generations. That would offer additional benefits in terms of controlling everything with the app/Beoremote One. MM

[DT79]

Thanks again for your help.  I’m gradually getting my head around all this stuff.

One final question, If I got a Core and something like a Beosound 9000 or a Beomaster 7000 or similar, presumably I could connect the Core to one of those via Powerlink and go Core >Beosound/Beomaster > Transmitter > BL18/BL19. If I were to do that…

a) could I control the whole thing with the B&O app and/or a B&O remote?

b) if I started streaming to the Core would it turn on the Beosound/Beomaster and switch to the right input automatically or would I have to use the B&O app or remote to turn the whole system on and select the right input first?

Just thinking that using a Beosound/Beomaster allows an abundance of inputs (and possibility to add a Beogram CD in case of the Beomaster)

wrote:

The ‘DPL’ port….the mysterious ‘DPL’ port ? Noone really knows – or has revealed – what they thought of back then. Most likely it is a port, that should support a digital output ( = no input port!), that could have been used, if they had developed further down that route. DPL means digital powerlink – which is used on the BL90’s/50’s for the connection between both speakers. In an update, at some point it was converted into a port for an ir-eye. This however, is rarely used, since all newer devices (including the Core) uses bluetooth for controlling. I guess we won’t see any changes there (for the Core as is) – the development of a newer version is rumoured. MM

[DT79]

Thanks. I see there’s only one socket labelled ‘powerlink’, but what’s ‘DPL’? I guess I assumed one of them would be a powerlink input (or equivalent)  intended for connecting up older B&O gear. Or is the idea that if you wanted to combine a Core with other B&O Beosound or Beomaster type things that the Core would be plugged from its Powerlink output into a Powerlink input on one of those?

Just trying to get my head around it all. Is there a guide anywhere to all the terminology and connecting together old B&O, new B&O and 3rd party gear?

wrote:

Is it possible to plug a non-B&O analogue source into a powerlink input with some kind of adaptor cable?

No, the PL is an output….for connecting the Beolabs. MM

[DT79]

Hi – I’m gradually pulling together all the stuff I need. I’ve got my BL18s, running off a non-B&O system for now and sounding fantastic. I’ve got a BL19 which I’m using in another system for now and picked up a Transmitter 1 as well.  Just waiting for a Beosound Core to come up s/h at a decent price and i can put it all together and try it.

One further question about the Core though and I ask this because it only has one non-B&O analogue input which they’ve idiotically combined with the optical mini-jack input…. Is it possible to plug a non-B&O analogue source into a powerlink input with some kind of adaptor cable?

Thanks!

[DT79]

The ethernet connection on the Chord is for receiving data. The power link sockets on the Beolab 18s are for a proprietary B&O audio input – they just coincidentally use the same type of socket.

You could connect an audio only device to the toslink input on one of your beolab 18s (and then another optical cable from the toslink output of that speaker to the toslink input of the other) and operate that device with the Beolab 18s for stereo music completely independently from your AV processor*, however any device connected to the Beolab 18s must have its own volume control.

*if both your audio device connected by toslink and the av processor connected via analogue are playing simultaneously then there will be an order of preference, but I don’t recall what that is.

sashua wrote:

OK I am doing my installation later this week! Only question I still have is regarding my digital source. I have the Chord Hugo2/2 Go combo and it has a Gigabit (GbE) ethernet wired connection but I can’t use that, right? Looking at the manual I am getting a little confused since it looks like those speaker ports are only for Powerlink or Service so I guess I can’t wire directly? If I use Toslink for a direct connection to my DAC then it’s fairly confusing. Do I connect the left speaker to the right one and then the right one to the Hugo2? Any advice?

[DT79]

I’m using a 7.2 as a centre channel, wall mounted underneath my TV, driven from an Anthem AVR (used as a processor) with BL8000 fronts and BL6000 rears.  It works really well, it’s a great centre channel speaker – very clean, detailed and powerful.

I got the whole lot from a s/h B&O specialist (Quality Dream Audio in the UK) and they made me up an RCA to powerlink cable with integral USB trigger which is connected to the TV so that whenever the TV turns on, the 7.2 turns on.

 

 

[DT79]

I always took that to be what they meant by the ‘bass capability’ figure. E.g. they achieve the stated (not that it’s stated to us in the spec sheet for all models) bass response up to that SPL level (inferring that upwards of that the ABL is kicking in to limit it).

Edit – turns out I’m totally wrong! See below 🙂

Mr10Percent wrote:

I would say these are just marketing statistics? im sure a 200W D-class ICE amp can deliver a lot of “oomfph” thru a 5in driver in the in the 90-250hz range but it will significantly less efficient in the 28/31 to 90hz range especially if that amp has to deliver sound at higher volumes etc….. it’s still there but not at unlimited full-fat, unlimited quantities?

[DT79]

The rotel will be sending a signal to both pre-outs and speaker terminals simultaneously at all times unless there’s a menu setting to switch one or other off. Either way, it will just work if you connect your front L&R via pre-outs instead of speaker terminals.  You need to find the test tone in the menu and use that to get all the speakers at the same level. You can do it by ear or preferably with an SPL meter (or smartphone app).

sashua wrote:

OK inching closer thanks to all of you!!!! So use the preamp outs L+R front channels to the speakers and set them to L and R respectively? And for my center channel, sub and rear channels (currently KEF speakers but plan to upgrade to B+O) I just leave them as-is, hooked up to their speaker terminals on my preamp. Will my preamp just know to send the front signals out of the pre-outs and the rest of the speaker signals through the speaker outputs? Will the preamp volume control know how to equalize everything for volume levels or is that a system menu thing on my preamp?

[DT79]

If you plan to run them off your AVP as front L&R in a surround sound system then I think you’re going to have to use RCA. If you connect a SPIDF output when playing multi-channel content the AVP is going to output 5.1 via the SPIDF output and the BL18s won’t know what to make of it. Just connect up the RCA’s to the L or R RCA socket on your BL18s and set the ‘role’ switch to L or R respectively and it should work great.

What other speakers are you going to use? I recommend getting some B&O speakers if you don’t already have them and keep the tonal signature the same, especially for the centre.

I have BL18s in a stereo system, but in the other room I have a 5.1 system consisting of BL8000 / BL7.2 / BL6000. They all work great together so I expect if you got a BL7.2 centre and a pair of 8000s for rear (or BL3s or 17s if you want small or wall-mounted) that would go amazingly well with the BL18s.

sashua wrote:

So I suppose the RCA inputs are a better choice than using the Toslink in your opinion? I am trying to understand how it all works together. I have a 5.1 setup. My rears, sub and center are still going to run off my amplifier but the 18’s will be independent and run off the pre-outs with their internal amps?

[DT79]

syrianos82 wrote:

I don’t think there is an automated way to have a sub added to the room compensation. The closest is having the Beosound Theatre handle all speakers and measuring the room by sweeping with the microphone for creating listening positions. A Wisa streamer connected to a TV with smart apps or Apple TV can send the signal to all Wisa speakers like the soundsend wisa transmitter or axiim link, but those remain very manual equalizers. tried playing around with them before the Theatre was available but it’s no comparison to the Theatre’s flexibility and capability. Maybe just go for the 8’s for now, who knows B&O will develop a new streaming hub or device in the future to handle wisa speakers / wireless power link without integrating this functionality in a full sized soundbar…

Thanks for your reply, that’s what I feared. I think I’ll just stick with what I have for now and see if they do bring out such a device as you mention in your last paragraph, which it seems they really need to.

I was just toying with the idea of 8s & a 19 as they seem more attainable than what I really want which is a pair of 28s.

[DT79]

I had a listen to the Beolab 8 in our local B&O dealer today. Very impressive even just on their own as a stereo pair.

Got me thinking…. At the moment I have 18s paired with Lyngdorf subs driven by a Lyngdorf amp using its room correction, which is essential for my room. Sounds fantastic, but the whole solution is not very elegant. Would there be a way of using 8s and a 19 in a wireless B&O-only set-up, with the whole thing room corrected? I know the 8s have the ‘adaptive room compensation’ built in, but it there any way of hooking it all up and running the room compensation in such as way as to encompass a 19 as well?

[DT79]

The lugs that clip the top part down can easily snap when you try to flip it up to remove the grilles. I’d seen it flipped up easy as you like on a YouTube video, but as soon as I did it, I heard something snap. So if they won’t stay down in place then chances are the lugs have been snapped off previously.

Luckily in my case I was removing the original grilles to install some (BL18-esque) wooden fret ones, so wasn’t so bothered.

[DT79]

trackbeo wrote:

Wasn’t clear which article you referred to, so: Reference #1: It’s in the comments/Q&A: Search for the string “< 5 ms” (note spaces) Reference #2: It’s in the table: search for the string “4.4”

Thanks, it was the first, I hadn’t been through all the comments.

[DT79]

Hi – thanks for that. I’ve already got the latency of the 18s plugged in, so it’s the 5ms for the Transmitter 1 that I will need to add.

Just out of interest I cannot find the reference in GM’s blog article (I had already read that), can you direct me to the section where he talks about the delay please?

 

trackbeo wrote:

5 milliseconds, based upon: a) B&O’s WiSA product release info as reported by https://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1383642616 , and b) Geoff Martin’s blog Q&A about matching delay for a Transmitter 1’ed subwoofer (scroll about half-way down https://www.tonmeister.ca/wordpress/2014/01/10/bo-tech-subwoofer-tweaking-for-beginners/comment-page-1/ ) where he says to move one of the speakers speed-of-sound x 5msec meters forward or backward. Please note that is not the total latency, because the speakers themselves have some built-in sound processing, though very short in the case of Beolab 18s: 4.4msec, again per Geoff Martin (https://www.tonmeister.ca/wordpress/2017/12/06/bo-tech-beolab-loudspeakers-and-third-party-systems/)

 

 

[DT79]

YannChris wrote:

The manual, on page 4 states that volume must be controlled by the source. The Beosound Moment was wireless-enabled. Yann.

Thanks, I’ll check it out.

[DT79]

YannChris wrote:

Hi, The Transmitter acts as a bridge between a wired source and wireless-enabled speakers. So in my opinion, it does not act like a preamp and volume control is not supported. Here is the user manual of the transmitter: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/fr/articles/360041404192-Beolab-Transmitter-1 Kind regards, Yann.

ok thanks for confirming. Seems strange for a product with multiple inputs. Don’t suppose B&O has an audio oriented device which combines the functions of the Transmitter and the Core?

[DT79]

Actually Does the Transmitter act as a preamp (control the volume)? It’s not obvious one way or the other reading the B&O product page.

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