[Dillen]

This?

Martin

[Dillen]

Watch the motor current draw!
As Soren suggests; If the belt is wrong (too tight), the motor will see a too heavy sideways load, and its bearings will go bad in no time = goodbye motor. I’ve seen it so many times with cheap junk belts from Portugal and Germany sold in large numbers on Ebay etc.
Speeds being low after replacing the belt could suggest this kind of situation.

Martin

[Dillen]

matador wrote:

I’ve lubricated the center cam wheel, maybe I shouldn’t have?

You shouldn’t.
These cams MUST run dry and clean.

Martin

[Dillen]

No. First take off the alu trim. The cloth is held in the ridge for the alu trim.

Martin

[Dillen]

You get the new fabric in the same way. Pressed in using the alu trim.

Clever? Yes.
Elegant? Yes.
Easy? No.

I have had a little success first glueing the new fabric in to the ridge on one side,
then, when set, work to the opposite side etc. and fit the alu trim last.

Martin

[Dillen]

The drive stops because no tape motion is sensed.
– Bad belts
– Bad motor
– Lack of power to the motor (bad fuse)
– Seized take-up reel
– Cracked solder joints at the connector to the drive
– Broken off lead for the motion sensor
– Any combination of the above.
If it happened after shipping, I would check if the motor is running when the deck is
out of standby. If it doesn’t check the fuse on the regulator board – and its holders.

But I agree, the seller should help you with this or take it back.

Martin

[Dillen]

The fabric is held by the alu trim. You can ease the trim out carefully.

And they don’t look like Beovox 2400.

Martin

[Dillen]

Well, judging from that photo I’d say the platter rides a bit too low – at least at the left side (facing the camera).
Bring it up 1-1,5 mm at the left and perhaps also at the rear leaf spring and let us know how it works out.

Actually, a very low platter setting has often caused wow.
Reason: A 12″ record is a larger diameter than the platter and the wow comes when the record touches the
surrounding surface – gradually increasing as the tonearm and carriage move inwards, shifting the center of gravity. First tracks play fine, later tracks not.
The solution is to tighten up the suspension a little at the left/rear.

Don’t overdo.
Make sure the subchassis is still able to move freely.

Martin

[Dillen]

Mark-sf wrote:

Unfortunately, there is no industry standard for 12” record weight. They can range from 80-200g.

What? What makes you say that?
Just because you can buy records weighing in from 80 to 200g doesn’t mean that it’s a standard.
I have played a custom made record weghing more than 1Kg for a customer once.
The RIAA standards are fairly clear.
And you’ll be surprised how much is non-standard.

Martin

[Dillen]

180gr records are non-standard.
Most decks can be made to play them but, ideally, if you adjust the suspension to suit 180gr records,
you should put it back again to play standard records, because the subchassis suspension carries both
the record, the platter, electronics and carriage of which the latter shifts the center of gravity of
the whole subchassis when moving.

In your case I would tighten the suspension just slightly on the left and rear leaf spring.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s not uncommon to see different drives used during production, but this one
looks original for a Beocenter 9000.
Only Beocenter 9000 has the spring clamp. All the other Beocenters in this series have the
door-operated swinging clamp.

Other minor differences can also be found, making collecting these interesting.

Martin

[Dillen]

The lamp sits inside the black plastic housing at the backside of the frontpanel.
Interrupters block the light from the lamp to the LDRs when buttons are pressed, and the screws are for adjusting (ref. service manual).
New lamp here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Capacitor C2 on module 53.

Martin

[Dillen]

Replace 53C2 (47uF).

Martin

[Dillen]

The connection is named C32, which means that it can be found on diagram C with number 32.
On diagram C, it is named F32 because the connection goes to diagram F.
Nothing strange about this.

In other words TR17, C12 and F2. Check for cracked solder joints.

Martin

[Dillen]

I would not enjoy being interviewed as such, but I don’t mind showing a few of the more exotic products, I have come across, if it could be of interest.

Beomaster 2100 (prototype)

Beocord 1900 black edition (as found, before I carefully cleaned it up).
Presumably an attempt at a matching cassettedeck for Beomaster 2200 and Beocenter 3300.

Beomaster 2400 first edition (with different symbols). I have the matching remote control too.

Record player G46SR

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, that’s what I did and found this:

https://www.facebook.com/soundsheavenlycables/photos/pcb.5676106309106059/5676099505773406

What is the (presumably) S-model near the camera, with the Master 38RG, Master 39S and JET 512RG in that order behind it?

Martin

[Dillen]

I am not sure exactly what the point was when I started collecting at the age of nine or ten, but it certainly wasn’t in order to brag or show off.
And it still isn’t.
I remember sitting with the catalogues, helplessly in love with each and every product, unable to decide which one(s) I’d like to have the most, if I should ever get a chance to own one.
And then it took off.

I’ve been collecting for my own pleasure. I would love to have all my items up and running, ready to look at, dust off and use, but I simply don’t have room for it, and it wouldn’t be a museum or somewhere I would drag my family and friends around anyways.
At home I only have my Beomaster 8000 which is in daily use. I have nothing on “display” and no “conversation pieces”.
The last two decades I have slowly but certainly been parting with things. Started with larger products, TVs,
large speakers, 40s, 50s and 60s radiograms, moving to doubles and/of more commonly seen products etc.
These days I am only adding items I never saw or owned before, exotic and strange products.
Documenting everything as I go has become an important point for me, and I should’ve done that from the very beginning.

Martin

[Dillen]

The Hyperbo is a replica. As is the one in the Struer museum.
Don’t get me wrong, – it’s a very nice piece indeed, but it’s not a genuine B&O product.
The one from Kims collection, that B&O apparently bought, I believe, has a Superbo chassis. Presumably because spare Hyperbo chassis’ are nowhere to be found.

The Mini 43 is the Export version, meant for the swedish market.
Quite interesting.

One I cannot readily identify is the (presumably) S-model near the camera in the photo with the Master 38RG, Master 39S and JET 512RG in that order behind it.
And its record player could be a non-B&O. The tonearm could look a bit like a PE.
Which model is this?

Martin

[Dillen]

Here.

Martin

[Author]

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