[Dillen]

If you are sure the belt is correct and not something off Ebay or similar, lubricate the motor bearings.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check the motor phase adjustment.

Martin

[Dillen]

When in 45RPM, does the motor pulley vibrate if you feel with a finger, or is it completely still?

Martin

[Dillen]

They are excellent decks.
Parts here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Perhaps a bad capacitor somewhere. That wouldn’t be a first.
Put a scope to the signal path, compare left/right and see, where the signal is lost.

Martin

[Dillen]

Use a puller.
Grab under as close to the spindle as possible, not to bend the copper plate.
It’s easily distorted.

Martin

[Dillen]

Grease won’t do.
It has to be an oil, and it has to be light, homogenic and “self-dissolving”, and of course have the right properties and additives.
A mix of primarily SAE30 was used originally.

The bearings from Beoparts are pre-oiled, ready to fit. So are the felt washers.
Just clean the spindle using IPA and a clean lint-free cloth.
And then keep the spindle clean. Leave no fingerprints on it afterwards, – there is no room for any.

With the motor reassembled, you may need to align the spindle and bearings axially, or one or both bearings may end up running on “edges” instead of parallel on their plain inner surfaces.
Originally there was a tool for this task (not a very good one, really) but moving the spindle
around, pushing it sideways a little and rotate it by hand, paying attention to
the run-off time, will give you an idea of the sweet spot.

Martin

[Dillen]

Perhaps not that exact product, but I know a thing or two about sinter bronze bearings,
and I have had my hands on lots of things with names beginning with “super”.
I remember one product was advertized for use with space shuttles, for which I’m sure it will be fine.
But I threw most of it away. It didn’t do anything near what I wanted it to.
Now I think of it, perhaps it was because I didn’t have a space shuttle to use it with.

Anyway, – if it has teflon or similar modern “floating”/”suspended” stuff, that gets pressed in to the pores in the
bearing material, cluttering them, it’s usually safe to deem it no good for sinter bearings.
And very difficult to remove from the bearings pores again as teflon and microplastics are not easily dissolved. At least not without leaving a mess behind.

Martin

[Dillen]

You need to take the motor out. Undo the three springs etc.
Then remove the idler wheel and pull off the pulley.

Martin

[Dillen]

I just edited my above reply to be more specific.

The felt washers are oil reservoirs sitting around the bearings.
You will see when you take it apart. (Yours will have hardened or at least run dry).
It’s a special technical felt material meant specifically for this purpose.
The bearings pull oil from the reservoirs to replenish and compensate for what is being used.

Martin

[Dillen]

Just adding oil in “free form”/ as drops, won’t provide a lasting solution.
It will be pressed away as the motor runs.
And only few synthetic oils have the right additives for running with the metal alloys used here anyways.

The bearings are sintered. They will need oil infused into the pores in the
metal material from where it is pulled by capillary action when the spindle rotates.
Reoiling can be difficult seeing as the remains of the old oil needs
to come out first in order to infuse new oil.
Best and easiest is to replace the bearings altogether.

New bearings here, correctly oiled.

Your bearings may – or may not – have an additional flange, which is of no practical importance here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Have you checked the fuses?

Martin

[Dillen]

Which version of Beomaster 1400?

Martin

[Dillen]

Tighten the two springs. Take them out, pull them a bit longer and put them back.

The damping action is very minimal, few lids will close slowly by themselves, even if recently serviced and freshly greased.

Martin

[Dillen]

Unless the spindle runs VERY freely by hand (read: run down 5-8 seconds or more), it will need service.
Yours will, by the sound of it.

Martin

[Dillen]

Can you rotate the motor by hand?
If not – take it apart, clean the spindle and replace the bearings.

Martin

[Dillen]

The tape can become stuck by partly engaged tapeheads etc., if the mechanism stops mid-cycle.
This typically happens when belts are getting worn, and wheels are slipping.

Drawer out, from below, through the tiny holes, see if you can rotate the
left flywheel/capstan by pushing it with a small screwdriver or similar tool.
It should be rotated clockwise (seen from above). One rotation is usually enough to release the mech.
It may be necessary to hold the flywheel using something else – a cottom bud or so – while
shifting to the next push of the screwdriver, because the belt will have an “elastic” effect on the flywheel.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s blocked in the mechanism.
If in Denmark your deck is welcome here.

Martin

[Dillen]

The original bracket for the flying idler was black.
The last original replacements were white – as the one pictured, and they are known to break.

Martin

[Dillen]

Badly adjusted << and >> buttons?
There are voltage readings stated in the service manual.

Martin

[Author]

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