Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
DillenModeratorYou need to take the motor out. Undo the three springs etc.
Then remove the idler wheel and pull off the pulley.Martin
DillenModeratorI just edited my above reply to be more specific.
The felt washers are oil reservoirs sitting around the bearings.
You will see when you take it apart. (Yours will have hardened or at least run dry).
It’s a special technical felt material meant specifically for this purpose.
The bearings pull oil from the reservoirs to replenish and compensate for what is being used.Martin
DillenModeratorJust adding oil in “free form”/ as drops, won’t provide a lasting solution.
It will be pressed away as the motor runs.
And only few synthetic oils have the right additives for running with the metal alloys used here anyways.The bearings are sintered. They will need oil infused into the pores in the
metal material from where it is pulled by capillary action when the spindle rotates.
Reoiling can be difficult seeing as the remains of the old oil needs
to come out first in order to infuse new oil.
Best and easiest is to replace the bearings altogether.New bearings here, correctly oiled.
Your bearings may – or may not – have an additional flange, which is of no practical importance here.
Martin
DillenModeratorHave you checked the fuses?
Martin
DillenModeratorWhich version of Beomaster 1400?
Martin
DillenModeratorTighten the two springs. Take them out, pull them a bit longer and put them back.
The damping action is very minimal, few lids will close slowly by themselves, even if recently serviced and freshly greased.
Martin
DillenModeratorUnless the spindle runs VERY freely by hand (read: run down 5-8 seconds or more), it will need service.
Yours will, by the sound of it.Martin
DillenModeratorCan you rotate the motor by hand?
If not – take it apart, clean the spindle and replace the bearings.Martin
DillenModeratorThe tape can become stuck by partly engaged tapeheads etc., if the mechanism stops mid-cycle.
This typically happens when belts are getting worn, and wheels are slipping.Drawer out, from below, through the tiny holes, see if you can rotate the
left flywheel/capstan by pushing it with a small screwdriver or similar tool.
It should be rotated clockwise (seen from above). One rotation is usually enough to release the mech.
It may be necessary to hold the flywheel using something else – a cottom bud or so – while
shifting to the next push of the screwdriver, because the belt will have an “elastic” effect on the flywheel.Martin
DillenModeratorIt’s blocked in the mechanism.
If in Denmark your deck is welcome here.Martin
DillenModeratorThe original bracket for the flying idler was black.
The last original replacements were white – as the one pictured, and they are known to break.Martin
DillenModeratorBadly adjusted << and >> buttons?
There are voltage readings stated in the service manual.Martin
DillenModeratorIt’s solid enough, unless you misuse it or pack it badly for transport. But I suppose that goes for all tonearms.
Does it sound any different? – Well, not that I can tell, but perhaps it can be measured.
It’s much lighter and has a different resonance frequency.Martin
DillenModeratorI think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures! :o)
So is the light at the speed dial. Looks all LED’ish.
Can’t your panels align properly?
Martin
DillenModeratorYes, the tape mechanism is the same, but keep in mind that the tape controller
and the tape drive has been calibrated together.
If you replace only the tape mech, you must realign everything on the tape controller to match the new tapeheads etc.
Best is to keep the things paired and replace both the drive and the controller.
– Or repair your drive. What has broken?Martin
DillenModeratorThe outer shield of the round DIN plug carries the chassis ground.
If it still hums (that depends on your amplifier), the center pin in the DIN (signal ground) could be shorted to the chassis screw as well.Martin
DillenModeratorAre you thinking about the wrong types of transistors fitted as 5TR4, 5TR5 and 5TR6 in the safety circuit?
They can cause the primary fuse to blow for no apparent reason and are found in
some Beomaster 2200 with serial number earlier than 1470001.
Servicemanuals give out wrong part numbers as well.5TR4 should be a 8320408 (BC 256 or similar)
5TR5 and 5TR6 should be 8320409 (BC 174 or similar).Martin
DillenModeratorCheck the diode.
Martin
DillenModeratorFind an original manual.
Martin
DillenModeratorTR31 and TR32 are only one or two cms apart, in grids G1 (TR31) and F1 (TR32).
Most (but not all) original Beomaster 1900 / Beomaster 2400 servicemanuals have excellent PCB layouts.Martin
-
AuthorPosts
