[Dillen]

The decoder is the module to the right of the amplifier module in this photo.
It has no visible leads out side this.

When Tape or Phono is selected as source, the stereo light should be lit.
If it flashes, it could be because of a bad switch contact or the lamp is not securely fixed in
its socket. Or the lamp itself is on its way out.

Martin
(Photo from http://www.vintage-radio.net)

[Dillen]

The stereo decoder module was an optional extra in Beomaster 900K.
Not all Beomasters had them installed.
If no stereo decoder module has been installed, FM reception will be mono only, and the stereo indicator won’t light up.

Martin

[Dillen]

And some versions have protective diodes at the datalink signals. They can short.

Martin

[Dillen]

This?

Beogram 1200 1202 3000 Platter Spindle Gear 2700005

Knock out the small steel pin that goes through the gear, then the hub with spindle etc. can be lifted up.

Martin

[Dillen]

New datalink pins here:
Beoparts-shop

Martin

[Dillen]

No!
A good rule of thumb is to start with a trimmer in its center position, as that
usually won’t be far from its correct setting (if everything else in the circuit is fine).

Besides, the amplifier PCB in Beomaster 3000 (-2) has left and right channels mirrored,
so fully clockwise would mean max idle for one channel. Not good!

Martin

[Dillen]

The original gaskets can become immensely brittle.
In these cases it’s nice to have the possibility to simply replace them.

Martin

[Dillen]

Oh, I agree that looks horrible. It would be difficult to restore back.

Beocenter 4600 and Beocenter 7002 use different tonearms. The one in your photo could be
from a Beocenter 4600.
Which one do you need, – I could look in the dungeons for the right part.

Martin

[Dillen]

That’s not antiskating. It’s the tracking force setting.
It’s something you would normally not take apart. Originally, it was sold only as a complete assembly and, unless you are a really skilled DIY’er, I would recommend you replace it as such.

Martin

[Dillen]

And use ESD-protection!
These things are highly sensitive to static electricity.
Many owners experience that new lasers don’t work, – and while it is correct that
many asian “counterfeits” won’t work, or only work for a few hours, many lasers
are damaged by static electricity, – either during shipping, if shipped without
shorting clamp and/or ESD-shielding or by handling without taking
proper ESD-precautions.
I have seen many of both cases.

Martin

[Dillen]

There can be many reasons.
A photo or two would help us diagnose the issue.

Martin

[Dillen]

The belt will not be the problem then.
I suggest you add a small drop of oil to the motor bearing. Usually, the outer (visible) bearing will dry out before the inner, and it’s also the outer bearing that takes most
of the sideways load, so I would start there.
A little sinter/spindle oil would be the choice.

Martin

[Dillen]

What “special lubricant” did you use?

Martin

[Dillen]

You can be sure to find the correct part here:
https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product-category/beogram/beogram-rx2/

Martin

[Dillen]

It can be the idler wheel. A short production run of wheels was completed, and some
were already sold, before it was discovered, that the rubber compound wasn’t quite
as homogenic as it should have been from the raw material supplier.
Production was of course halted, and most buyers who potentially could have been affected, were contacted directly.
Luckily, the majority reported no problems but a few had issues as you describe.
I cannot say if the wheel you sit with is one from this batch, – but it could be.
If the wheel is indeed the problem, I suggest you contact the shop. They will have a solution.

Martin

[Dillen]

Is the tape under a hinged lid on top or in a drawer coming out the front?

Martin

[Dillen]

Does it click on and off and play as it should?

Martin

[Dillen]

Since this is a single-supply amplifier, apprx 50% of VCC is to be expected on the output rail – with respect to ground.
(Hence the need for an output series capacitor).

Martin

[Dillen]

28V across R491? That resistor is no more.

I am referring to all electrolytic capacitors in the output stage, and also in the preamp for that matter.
= All electrolytics on the board.

Martin

[Dillen]

The idle current should be expected to be around 7,5-15mV or something within that range.
The service manual will specify what’s correct for your model.
But the idle current is not the primary problem in your amplifier. If it’s wrong, it’s because something else is amiss.

Which resistor are you measuring across?

Martin

[Author]

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