[CharlieWednesday]

Ah, B&O made a lot of these various black boxes but I’ve never seen anything referred to as MCL2P before today.  Good to know as I do plan to use the MCL2AV it with passive rather than active speakers (I have active main speakers, but the link room speakers will be passive CX50s).  The ML2AV does have normal speaker outputs for passive speakers, but I assume that would just use the amplification from the Beocenter/Beomaster (in my case, a Beocenter 8500), like the MCL2 does.  Using MCL2P would, I assume, allow me to control the volume of the second set of speakers independently.

Can’t find anything called MCL2P on eBay, but I’ll keep looking – does it have the usual 16** model number that would help me find one?

Location: Liverpool
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[CharlieWednesday]

Ahm that makes sense now, thanks.  As I said, I’m no electrician!  Forgive me though – what is MCL2P?

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[CharlieWednesday]

I already asked Quality Dream Audio – they don’t have one.

Thanks for this though – the one you found is 300mA rather than 250mA, and that’s the trouble I’ve been having – I can find them close, but not quite right.

I’m not sure how much difference an extra 50mA would make, but I don’t want to risk frying it!

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[CharlieWednesday]

Problem solved – I had opened it up to see if anything was loose. I couldn’t find anything wrong but when I put it back together, it worked!  I’ll assume something was a bit loose and the process of opening up, fidgeting around and then closing it back up has fixed it, somehow!

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for this – really useful.  I don’t think he’ll mind having only one link unit – he will at least have the choice of having speakers on only in the main room, or in both rooms.

I’ll keep looking on eBay for the items I need then.

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[CharlieWednesday]

My goodness these converters are confusing. Thanks – I’ll keep looking for a 1611 then.

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[CharlieWednesday]

You don’t happen to know if the Beolink converter 1614 is a suitable alternative to the 1611?  It certainly looks exactly the same!

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[CharlieWednesday]

Yes that’s what I thought – I think he would need a working ‘Beocenter Terminal’ to replace the one he has that does not work.  They do crop up on eBay every now and again but tend to be quite pricey – costing more than a good Beolink 1000 (due to rarity, I expect), and also the Beolink 1000 is much nicer to look at, which is why I wondered if it might be a suitable alternative.

Thanks for your help, I’ll have a think on it.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Ah, turns out the problem is with the phone line – I don’t really use my landline so only realised today that it wasn’t working, and it’s only this that made me discover it wasn’t working; it could have been out of action for days.  At least I didn’t break it!  Openreach engineer is due in a few days.

Confusing about the power supply though – I have looked on eBay at the pictures of those selling Beotalk 1200s with a power supply so I can see if it should be a 7.5v or 9v and it looks like it’s…. both.  Some are pictured with a 7.5v transformer and some with a 9v.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Too late – I risked it!  I only plugged it in for a minute to see if it worked (it did), but the weird thing is, when I plugged the power supply back into my Beocom 6000, the light started flashing and it says ‘Line Busy’ when I look at the display, so maybe I’ve broken the damned power adapter!  You can get replacements pretty cheap on eBay, and I’ve only got myself to blame eh!?

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thank you so much shg79 for sending me the Beotalk 1200.  The village I live in is not going to have it’s phone lines updated any time soon so I expect I’ll get some use out of it for a good while yet!  Most of all though, it looks cool next to my Beocom 6000.

I wonder though, do they work together an any way?  I have checked the manual for both and there is no mention of it, but B&O do often like to make their stuff work together,  usually.

Even one simple thing – if I were to get an RJ11 splitter, do you think the same power adapter would be able to power both?  Has anyone tried that?

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[CharlieWednesday]

Wow, a lot of options!  If I do win that MCL2A on eBay (I’ve already bid for it) I think I’ll just go with that option first, especially since I’ve already got some Beovox RL45.2, RL1000, C40, CX50 and MCX35 all in full working order but currently unused.

Good to know too that a Mk1 BL3500 would also work with the MCL2A, but also with the MCL2AV if I decide to get one later.  You can get BL3500s really cheap on eBay and it would look really good on that wall….

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[CharlieWednesday]

That’s all extremely useful, thank you.  I did not know that the MCL2AV was also an option, and was much more flexible.  They are more expensive on eBay but certainly worth considering.  If I understand it correctly however the MCL2AV has no passive speaker outputs, so if I wanted to use the passive Beovox speakers I already have, I would also need a Beolink passive amp – am I right?

I have found the MCL handbook, and hopefully the useful technical info on this Beoworld site will return soon too – I did see it before the site redesign caused it to disappear, hopefully temporarily!

I’m actually looking for a solution for a large, odd shaped room rather than multiroom.  I had considered getting a Beolab 3500 but that would require a 1611 converter and they appear to be difficult to get hold of (you helped me with that advice too, in fact!), so this is me looking for another solution.

I have in fact bid for an MCL2A on eBay as it was going very cheap and included the transceiver and cables.  It’s so cheap anyway it’s worth a try, and if I decide to go down the MCL2A route eventually, at least I’ll have the transceiver already.

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[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve just spotted this, and if it’s still on offer, I’d like it very much!  I have recently bought a couple of Beocom 6000’s on eBay, and the village I live in is not due to go digital any time soon.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for the help.  I had read about the capacitor issue elsewhere and I had already seen the capacitor kit available from Beoparts; I guess I was just hoping to fix it without a soldering iron!

I read the service manual and it seemed to indicate that you could remove the CD transport by removing a couple of screws and it just flips up, but I could not get mine to move much when I tried that, and I was afraid of damaging it.

I’ll have another go at getting the CD transport out so I can assess the work required.  I do like fixing these things myself, but I may decide that a professional is needed in this case.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Hate to bump a post but I’d really love to get my CD player fixed – any ideas?

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[CharlieWednesday]

All vert useful, thanks.  I will test an area on the back, then if I’m happy with the finish, set to work on the whole thing.  Don’t think I’ll be painting it purple though!

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[CharlieWednesday]

I can’t help my curiosity here then – what is the Line In/Out port for?  My BC8500 has the same and I have wondered.  The user manual says nothing about it.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks so much for your help on this – having thought about it overnight I think I’ll wait until I see a Beolink Converter 1611 come up for sale – as you say that is the more modern (and more flexible) way of achieving things, and also ensures I can use a BL3500 Mark II rather than needing a Mark I.

I don’t actually want to put the 3500 in another room, I just want to put it on the other side of quite a large room, and if I can get a BL3500 in decent condition it would look pretty cool mounted on the wall.

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[CharlieWednesday]

Very helpful, thank you.  As it happens I think I do already have the cable needed for option 2 – I used to have a Beomaster 3000 with the MCL30 multiroom box/transceiver, and that cable has 3 pin speaker cables on one end, bare cables on the other end but I could easily connect an 8 pin DIN.  I have sold the Beomaster 3000 now, but I still have the MCL30 – I was selling it on eBay.

When I got the Beocenter 8500 (recently, as an upgrade from my Beocenter 8000) I did plug the MCL30 into it in case it worked, but it didn’t.  The speakers work through it, and the physical mute button on the transceiver works, but the IR transceiver won’t recognise commands from my Beolink 1000 or Beo4 remotes – it was built for the much earlier Terminal 3000 remote, so this isn’t surprising I suppose.

But you’ve got me thinking – I’ve took the MCL30 off sale on eBay (no bids anyway!) in case I decide to repurpose that cable by adding an 8 pin DIN to the other end, and go with your option 2.

I’d prefer your option 1 but I cannot find a Beolink converter type 1611 on sale, but at least I’ve got options now, thanks.

PS will anything other than a 1611 converter work, such as the BeoLink Converter NL/ML?  Thwre are so many of these converters available from B&O over the years, it can be a bit confusing to know which does what.

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