[sverreh]

Thank you for your assistance in particular, and the knowledgable Beoworld ccommunity in general for your assistance. I rely on the wealth of knowledge in this forum to maintain my B&O treasures.

Sincere regards,

Sverre

[sverreh]

Solved.

R 121 was burnt and replaced. Measured value was 24 kΩ, should have been 68 Ω. I could not find a 0.14 W resistor, but replaced it with 0.25 W. The alternative would have been 0.125W. Should I continue hunting for a68 Ω 0.14 W resistor, or is a slightly larger specified one OK?

One of the caps was shorted, C107. The other three — C103, 106 and 108 measured around 80-90 μF  and slightly high ESR out of cirquit. I replaced all four of them.

I took your advice and acquired replacement ICs, but decided to test the player without replacing them. Analog sound was back again:) Would it be wise to change the ICs even if the player is working fine for now?

 

 

 

[sverreh]

OK, thanks once again. I´ll try to follow your advice. The burnt resistor is R121, connected to 15 V.

[sverreh]

Thank you for your response and suggestion. Currently the analog out is connected to the AUX- input on my Beocenter 9500. The fault occurred when it was connected to Beomaster 4500. The digital output was checked by connection to a Sony DTC 55 ES DAT player.

I could have described the distortion more accurately in my initial posting: It is more like white(ish) noise, with the tune barely audible behind the noise.

From a thread in the archived forum, I found a member who had solved a similar issue by replacing four 100 μF capacitors and a burnt resistor in the opamp. I have ordered the parts, and will report back when they have been replaced.

[sverreh]

One more test: The optical out is working fine, no distortion and crisp, fine sound. Is there any known issues witin the Decoder PCB 5  or the Connection PCB 11?

(The video referred to in my previous post was apparently not acceptded by the site software)

[sverreh]

Welcome to Beoworld. My 4500 had a similar issue as your 3500. Replacing the belt did not solve the ff/rew issue. However, the solution described by 69er in this thread did the trick. I have been reluctant to glue the worm gear to the axle, but currently I see no other solution as a slipping worm gear leads to a lock-up of the mechanism.

Sverre

[sverreh]

Thank you! I have a Beocord 4500 with similar ff/rew symptoms, solved when I found this posting. Initially I did not see the crack in the worm gear, but after a closer inspection and ultrasonic cleaning of the gears it became visible. I assume that there are no alternatives to glueing the worm gear to the shaft?

Sverre

[sverreh]

Deleted – double post

[sverreh]

This part?

If you still need it I can get it to Copenhagen in two weeks time.

A leakage from the lithium battery has eaten up a lot of the internals in my deck, but the front panel is not damaged.

Any other parts you need? The deck itself is beyond repair, but there may be other useable parts I can take off before it goes to recycling.

Sverre

[sverreh]

Deleted – double post

[sverreh]

I agree with those who wants PMs back.

Another issue, I tried to respond to this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/does-anyone-need-any-vx5000-parts/, but got an error message. See the screenshot.

[sverreh]

Agree, PMs can be useful.

Another issue, I got error messages when trying to reply from my ipad, both to this tread and to a tread in the workbench. (Usin DuckDuckGo browser)

 

Sverre

[sverreh]

Thank you for your effort in running the forum over the years, Keith. The forum ha been, and will hopefully continue to be, an invaluable source of information and assistance to all of us beolovers, especially long-time lurkers like myself. All the best and we look forward to your visits and hopefully continued precise and reliable answers to some of our question.

Sverre

[sverreh]

Hello Calvin,

I believe you have to register the Nintendo connection in the Options – Connections menu.   There you will be able to assign the PC, or any other button of your choice, to AV3 (assuming you have a 40 or 46). It is pretty well described in the BV10 Guide pages 12 – 14.

Sverre

[sverreh]

Indeed, fortunately no takers when I tried to sell the module some years ago. Best of luck with your BV7.

[sverreh]

Short version: Today I have a BV 10-46 with a fully functional DVB-HD module.

Long version:

Loosened the six screws and lifted off the front frame as described in the service manual.

The marked panel had to come off.  13 T10 screws.

The DVB-HD module.  Two connectors, J7 and J18.  I did not remember where they should be connected. I later discovered that a short RJ45 connection from the top of the card to the bottom connection panel had gone missing.  Solved by inserting a short ethernet patch cable. It will be available should the need arise without having to dismantling the TV.

Connector J 7  in the middle of the picture.

The DVB module goes into the open space to the left of connector J7. When the picture was taken, I had yet to remove the blind lid in the bottom.

Marked position for J 18.

When everything was connected and re-assembled, I launched the service menu — DVB service — and changed DVB connected to YES.

After a restart of the TV, all DVB-services I expected are now available to me.

Sverre

[sverreh]

This is from  Beolink handbook 1.9

[sverreh]

Thank you for the replies. After some reading I believe that any configuration can be done in the set-up menus once the module has been installed. I will report back when I have found the courage to perform the installation 🙂

[sverreh]

If DAB+ is important,  some of the BS4 models do support DAB+. Mine does, as Norway closed down the national FM network in 2017. Unfortunately they are hard to come by and, at least here, a bit more expensive than the regular or DAB-compatible units. They do, however, offer backwards compatibility with DAB.

Sverre

[sverreh]

OK, my bad: One way or another, the checkbox to enable Multiroom for Airplay was unchecked. When enabled, my system now works as desired again.

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