[Millemis]

When the source is activated, pushing MENU on the beoremote should bring up a menu on the left screen side, that shows you which button should be used for which original functions.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Listening to the John Mellencamp album ‘Life, Death, Love and Freedom’, which came out in 2008.

It was produced by T-Bone Burnett, who is known for striving for a more analog sound in his productions. At this time he has developed a ‘new format’ called ΧΟΔΕ (or Code).

‘Burnett has started a new venture called Code, which aims to do for music what THX did for
movie-theater sound: set standards that ensure the best possible quality. The first Code album, John Mellencamp’s Life, Death, Love and Freedom (which Burnett produced), will be released July 15th in a two-disc package: a standard CD and an audio-only DVD with superior sound quality that will play on any standard DVD player.’

Actually this was nothing but a 24/96 version, which could not fit into the redbook format of the CD and therefore they had to use a DVD.

This format did not have a long life – nowadays T-Bone Burnett has a new idea – have a look here: https://www.techhive.com/article/694417/t-bone-burnett-promises-a-new-analog-audio-format-for-an-upcoming-dylan-release.html

I am not sure that I can hear any difference to the regular CD. However, the recording is excellent…….Burnett knows how to record and he avoids compression etc in the mastering.

And the music by John Mellencamp is very enjoyable – like always…….he is one of my log time favourites.

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Not that I think this will help/solve your problem…

I can’t play anything B&O Radio here, but BBC6 plays fine from the built-in TuneIn (supposed this is what you are looking for).

And BB6 shows up in the B&O Radio part, even if my M3 can’t play B&O Radio.

Maybe this can help in your ‘communication’ with the support ?

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

That does indeed look supreme – congrats ?

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Just one more thing in order to better understand how the setup will work.

The Passive is a device, that can be used in different ways.
For your purpose it is ‘just’ an amplifier that drives your passive speakers.

The sound signal (and the needed turn on/off commands) comes through the Powerlink MK2 cable – only one is needed.

All controlling is done in the Ouverture directly or via the ir sensor there with a B&O remote.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Carolpa wrote:

note: you’re discussing a beta version of the app. Mishaps happens, so report them. Then it can be resolved in next (beta) versions. note: I did find the new font “refreshing” though. Further on I noticed today, because of MM post, a same, but lesser, effect on the latest official release (but than on the grey letters). @MM, one of your devices seems the be in for a sw update

——— ———

Yes, and so the title says….I just wanted to revive this subject/thread.

Of course I have reported this – I wanted to create awareness of this amongst the forum members.

I don’t mind the new font, if they are in for a change, so be it ?

However, I did not really see a need for it.

What bothers me is that the change here has caused bad text layout (at least on my iPad).

And no, all my devices are uptodate (of course) – it probably is because I did not configure Deezer, since I don’t use it.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

To your numbered questions…….

Definitely not the 1.

I’d – in that case – probably go for 2………although I am not so sure that it always will be significantly better.
As for controlling the volume via the Core – yes, you can do that – there is a setting just for that.

3. would be an extra not necessary step…..unless you’d like to run the BL18 wireless.

 

When you used your Mac/Music, your source material probably was regular 44.1/16, that then was upsampled to 48/24 in the settings there, right?

When you compare stuff from two different music services, you can not be sure that the mastering is identical (Apple has their own rules there).

This means that – if you want to do a comparison between an analog connection and a digital – there are many variables. First of all the source material has to be exact the same and also the SPL (the volume you listen at) must be identical. In real life this can be very complicated and can easily lead to ‘quick conclusions’.

The ‘DAC’ in the BL18 is not just a regular DAC like you often see as a device in setups with a digital source and an analog input. It is much more an integrated part of the sound processing in the speaker….I am sure ‘someone else’ can explain this better.
All processing there is based on a conversion to 24/48 in order to keep the sound consistent with all inputs.

 

IMHO you should not worry that much about sample rates and bitdepth. Even source material in 44.1/16 can sound excellent depending on the actual recording, the mixing and the mastering – a higher bitrate/bitdepth is by no means a guaranty for ‘better sound’.

I recomment that you try listening to what you normally listen to with an analog connection (PL/good shielded PL cables) and with an optical connection from the BS Core for a while……in order to see what suits you best.

Remember that…..when it comes to audio gear, cables, sample/bit rates etc – it is not about ‘good or bad’, it is much more about ‘different’……..unless you – of course – have really bad stuff.
After all it is about you liking what you hear and not about which sample rates/bitdepths and cables you use.

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

dariod wrote:

Thanks to Millemissen and Steve(btw i do watch you on youtube). I didn’t mention, but as a tv, i do not have a b&o one, but a Philips 936/12 that comes with a default Bowers and Wilkins soundbar. The beolabs, are all MK2,As a besound system, u mean something like Beosound 5? If i gst the connection hub, could i be able to connect all the seven beolabs at once, and working? I saw something on internet, that trasforms beolabs with a bluetooth receiver, could this work if they be all bluetooth ?

———

Since you already use the sound output of the tv for the soundbar, you would have to disable that before setting up another sound solution – there is no way to combine these!

Whilst the Beosystem3 (as suggested) could be an option, if you want to use the Beolabs for a multichannel setup, you must know that this means, that you will have to use the tv as a screen only (the builtin apps can not be used) and that it will be limited to 2K/FullHD due to the configuration/age of that Beosystem.
And you’d have to fiddle with an ir blaster (and a PUC control) in order to have the Philips tv/screen turn on when you engage the Beosystem

Note!
There are solutions for a workaround there.
Some examples can be found on the old forum 2 – but this is not for ‘beginners’…..’when you know 0 about connecting’

The solution with the Connection Hub can hardly be recommended either – you simply have to few option to manage the sound for different purposes (music <-> movie)….and you’d have to rely on the headphone-out of the tv. And – as Steve wrote – only works with ir-remote based tv’s.
Also this would – as with a BS Core – only give you a 2 channel/stereo option.

The best way to go – if you want to use the BL’s for multichannel/movie and you want to keep the Philips tv – IMHO will be to go for a decent modern multichannel receiver with pre-outs (for the Beolabs) and use the HDMI/eARC connection from the Philips tv to connnect to it. (The default soundbar will be useless in that case).

Or you simply stick to the soundbar that comes with the tv…….which is not a bad solution after all.

Maybe you can use the Beolabs with a BS Core elsewhere in your home.

Sorry to say this….I find no other useable solution/answer to your question ?

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

You will not be able to use the remote with the Core in that case.

Integrated means being part of the BV.

Since the Avant is ir-based however, you would have to configure the remote to ir-control.

This way – at least – you could control the volume.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I have always been an advocate for the Playmaker!

I only got rid of it for my main setup because the Essence MK2 took over its role there – I still have it connected to my V1-32 in the study with a Chromecast Audio dongle connected to its line-in.

It is an absolutely underestimated B&O device, that surely still can be used. However, mostly when I recommend it, I also recommend to use it hardwired – you never know how (un)stable peoples WiFi is!

Lately I helped someone, who has a Beosound Encore and wanted to stream/via Airplay and also to be able to connect his turntable there – this worked well!

Of course the Essence MK2 or the Core is a better alternative, but in many cases the Playmaker can do the job….and is cheaper.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I am sorry to tell you that this probably can not be done JUST WITH SOME CABLES.

You could get stereo sound from your tv (unfortunately you do not tell anything about which one). The easiest way would be to use the headphone-out of the tv. You could even use more sets of Beolabs this way – you can daisy chain these (means the signal is send from one speaker to the next………of course using a cable).

Since there are different versions of the named Beolabs, you may have to use different cables – Steve from Soundsheavenly (as already mentioned) can help here….usually he answers rather quick, when you contact him via his website.

However, you won’t get more than 2 channel/stereo sound.

 

You mention ‘like a home theater‘, which would be multichannel/surround etc. For this you’d have to use some kind of A/V receiver – with preout connections – connected to the tv via HDMI.

Then you can connect the Beolabs and configure  the setup in the receiver for movie/music. This again will require cables that matches your Beolabs.

 

All in all….we need more information on your wishes for the setup.

 

P.S. Welcome to Beoworld.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

+1 from me too for the use of the converter…..if you want a proper integration.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

If you have a Beo4 remote, you can open the A.Aux port with the A.Tape/A.Mem button.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

aximi wrote:

Hast du eine Idee, woran es liegen kann, dass die Soundqualität in den Linkräumen und teilweise im Hauptraum sehr schlecht ist? Über Radio ist sie Super. Habe den Sonos Port direkt an den Behringer angeschlossen. Wenn ich meinen Laptop anschließe, ist der Ton auch schlecht.

———

Wie ist es schlecht?

Die Tonqualität an sich – oder ist es nicht laut genug?

Das Ausgangsignal (vom Beoport) sollte hoch sein – oder besser als ‘fixed line signal’ konfiguriert sein (siehe z.B hier:

https://youtu.be/xyUXS3hvYUo

Es kann natürlich auch an den Kabeln/den Verbindungen liegen – ist aber meisten nicht der Fall.

In den meisten Fàllen, wenn ich die Behringer USB Card installiert habe, ist es mit einem Plattenspieler zusammen. Da kann es schon mal vorkommen das das Signal von RIAA-verstärker zu schwach ist, und man deswegen die die Lautstärke der Anlage bzw der Linkräume etwas höher drehen muss.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

aximi wrote:

Und im Esszimmer kann ich A.Aux nicht direkt selber anstellen. Das geht an, wenn ich in irgendeinen anderen Raum A.Aux anstelle. Wenn ich in irgendeinen anderen Raum die Lautsprecher ausschalte gehen auch in jedem anderen Raum die Lautsprecher aus. Bei der Quelle Radio funktioniert alles einwandfrei.

—————

Wie ich es verstanden habe, benutzt du in den Linkräumen den MCL/Converter (Beolink Passive).

Dieser wird höchst wahrscheinlich nicht das Ir-Kommando A.Aux (direkt) verstehen können…..wegen eines älteren SW versions.

Das Austauchen des Eproms darin wird schwierig sein – vor allen Dingen weil es diese kaum noch gibt.

(Es mag sein das die neusten Versionen vom Beolink Passive A.Aux unterstützt – ich weiß aber nicht ab wann).

Da hilft nur der Umweg übers Einschalten im Hauptraum zuerst…….den du ja schon kennst.

Das Ausschalten vom gesammten Setup’s erfolgt wenn man den Ausschaltknopf (den roten runden) zu lange drückt. Bei einem kurzen Drücken sollte eigentlich nur der jeweilige Linkraum ausgehen (es sei den die Räume sind sehr dicht bei einander).

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

R.E.M – New Adventures in Hi-Fi – 25th Aniversary Edition.

Listening to the 5.1 version (Blu Ray disc on OPPO player).

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

If it has to be vinyl…

A while ago when I was changing something in my setup, I sold my Beogram 4500.

It took up pretty much space and for the few vinyl albums that I still have left, I prefered not to have that ‘on display’ in the main setup anymore.

I fetched an old Beogram 2022 from the attic , that had been in store for years and had a friend take care of it….works fine now.

It now is located in my study hooked up to an Essence MK2 and therefore listenable on the network.

So….I just listened to what you see in the picture in my main room.

One album on two disc – that gives you plenty of exercise, when you have to turn and turn and turn the record ?

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

What a pity.

You don’t state which version of the BV7-40 you have – and also not where you are located.

 

In my experience it is not worth it to bother about repairing these old tv’s.

There are plenty of preused BV7-40’s out there at a very low price.

Swapping out the tv should be fairly easy.

Tip! If you buy it from a dealer, he should be able to upload the PUC codes, that you’d need.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

You’d not be the first to wish for this.

Lot of threads in the previous Beoworld versions.

As an example see here:

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/42470/352106.aspx

If you stay ‘stubborn’ long enough, you might find the solution 🙂

However, the easiest way – as already suggested – is to use the 1611 converter.

By the way….the Powerlink port (that you call DIN connection) is for connecting to a Beolink Wireless 1 in order to make the BL3500 a wireless link speaker.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I’d definitely go for the PUC-controlling.

If you have an older Apple PUC entry in the tv, why not try that!

All you need is the ir cable and – of course – to configure the setup.

I am sure the basic functions will work.

Personally I use the latest entry and am totally happy with that – I have never used an original Apple remote (they always stayed unpacked in the box).

However, on a BV7 you will need a B&O technician to upload that into the tv.

Hint!
You can also use the (Apple) remote app on an iDevice – quite handy, when you have to have to search via writing….the iDevice will even promt you to use that (if both devices are in the same home network).

 

I have no experience with the Logitech remote – from what I read, it is much too complicated….and why use that when you can use the Beo4. Furthermore, as far as I know the Logitech remotes are now EOL.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Author]

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