[matador]

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Back “home”!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

KolfMAKER wrote:

So after all checks, tests and cleaning of lenses and mirror, it was the laser unit that did not function well.

Somewhere in BWII, somebody said something like : “If the laser is faulty, the whole unit starts to show lots of funky, unrelated behaviors that all goes good as soon as the laser work again”. Wise and true.

KolfMAKER wrote:

‘CLEANING REQUIRED’.

Newbie question Kolf, read the manual!   ;-D
You need to clean the two prism sensors.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Sorry to answer in English.

Yes, you need an RIAA box to connect a BG5005 to… Anything that is not a Beomaster or a phono amp.

Which one is up to you: from cheap ones from the Bay to expensive dedicated ones, they are plenty of choices: it all depends of your budget, ears, tastes and needs…

Hope this helps.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

alexsalles wrote:

I would be lost without you.

This is Beoworld.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you, It’s helpful to see the trimmers in real.

What could be the purpose of the component next to the lower (upper in your picture) display? It looks like a light sensor?

–After checking it–

It is a light sensor to adjust the brightness of the display. Never noticed it or maybe I have just forget it was there.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Guy wrote:

adjustment of display brightness

Hi Guy,

How do you do that ? Mine would need this !

–Edit–

Ok, got it! Too much time away from Service Manuals!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Mikaeln1 wrote:

[…] goto Bunnings…

Let me invite you “poor Australian” to our European “Leroy Merlin” in exchange to you inviting me to Bunnings!

Nice work and happy to have helped…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Please guys having “doubts”…

Read the thread carefully, there are of course scale errors; x10, x1000, x100, whatever…

Just think!

Plenty of people have sorted it out and successfully made them better than me.

This is an enthusiast forum, not an after sales hotline.

With all due respect.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’m with the sombrero guy, If you want to Frankenstein your deck, better sell it for parts to another B&O enthusiasts a buy a deck with “usuAT” cartridges…

If you like the soul of your turntable, yes it costs a little but…

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’ve tried to catch it with an old camera (CCD without IR filter while playing the last track of a CD but nothing visible. The luminous clamper, doesn’t help.

If you have and old camera and your Beosound is torn appart maybe you could try without the ring light on.

– Time after –

I’ve tried everything from old CCD Camera to iPhone front cam etc… On a Beosound 2300 where the lense is more exposed and I’m unable to see anything. Sorry.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:

Question Does the service manual remark ‘in TestMode #65 the light pen can be seen’ mean that I should be able to see the light of the laser? Because I don’t see any light coming from the laser in TestMode #65. If I should, then the laser is defect and needs replacement, right?

My Beosound 9000 IR has stopped working so I can’t do any Test mode to check it out but the visible laser must be a light red glint. At least it’s the only thing I’ve ever seen.

It’s also possible that by Light pen, they mean “the eye”. I can’t imagine a test mode firing the laser without any danger for the operator.

I remember a thread on BW2 that talks about another way to repair a faulty laser by (from memory) reflowing something on the main board. But I’m unable to find it.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

KolfMAKER wrote:

Thnx @Matador ! You are referring to the “orange part in the picture”. Do you mean the orange PCB and its flatcable?

Yes.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:

I remember a thread on BW2 that talks about another way to repair a faulty laser by (from memory) reflowing something on the main board. But I’m unable to find it.

This is the thread I was referring to. Unfortunately for MK3 but may help someone one day…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Can’t tell about the focus error. Focus error is usually because of a dirty lens. It may worth double checking the cleaning and the mounting of the part maybe.

The maser for MK2 is from memory CDM 12.05 but you often just need to change the eye part (orange part in the picture). there is a reference number printed on the triangle part near the connector – EF-20 – you should go after the same part.

Member Marexy who has bought tons of them on eBay told us it was kind of a lottery: some do work other don’t. I’ve experienced myself some that work but with a high pitched noise disturbing at low listening levels. Maybe a reputable source would work better.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

1. No, I think you’ve done them all.
2. For MK1 I don’t know. I think I remember the laser was specific or not anymore available, but I may be wrong. Lot of topics about that on BW2 I think. I would try a deep clean of the lens: lens up and down and mirror.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Typical of a faulty laser…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

YannChris wrote:

I remember something happened with 3rd party codes assigned on hardkeys in one of the last versions of the config-tool or firmware update.

Interesting. That worth a try updating the config with an old CT.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes it is a two part construction: a hard plastic part with a rubber “sock”.

If the rubber sock only is torn, you can replace it with a flat rubber ring (plumbing).

If the hard plastic part is broker yes it can be more difficult. Then I need to see how complicated would be to design the mesh, given one could add the electric contacts. Maybe not that easy.

If your solution did work (the tape) that would not be difficult to design a sticker and print it in thick vinyl. It happens I do have a plotter for that kind of thing and can try this for you.

In the meantime you can cut a piece of vinyl, apply it on the base, rub it with your finger and then follow the crease with the tip of an X-acto. That would give you a perfect shaped base.

Hope this helps.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Another thing I forgot to mention:

I still have a Beo6 in use. It has a defective touch panel but it is programmed to work with hard keys only, like a Beo4. It allows me to start a Beocenter 6, Radio, Airplay and Apple TV box with built in Apple remote codes.

What happens is that the remote seems to hold the charge as usual as long as I use B&O controls but as soon as I use a third party command the remote immediately reboot and ask for his charger. I just need to but the remote on the cradle and then the remote works again as before.

Location: Paris France

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