[Mark-sf]

These are designed to be user-adjusted controls in order to match levels between the phono or tape decks and the tuner. There is no “correct” setting as they act as an input-specific volume control ahead of the source selector.

[Mark-sf]

I’m not a big fan of the ribbed record support system of the 8000 and earlier tables. Additionally, since your other cartridges are interchangeable with the 8002, that is the one I would keep.

[Mark-sf]

Am azimuth grid assumes a perfect cartridge and won’t yield the result you are seeking. Correct azimuth alignment is when both channels are at their maximum balanced separation which requires both a test record that has single-modulated channel tracks and an RMS meter or a Fozimeter for the measurement.

[Mark-sf]

For your hum problem, does it go away when the arm is at rest? I would carefully look at the shield and tonearm connections inside. Also is is a DIN or Phone cable?

Regarding 45, there is a relay along with the mechanical switch and active circuit. Does the platter not spin at all when selecting 45 or does it not change from 33 to 45?

[Mark-sf]

I am not familiar with SoundDesign B&O cartridges. Could you mean SoundSmith? Record static (that is electrostatic attraction to vinyl) is usually caused by dry environments. A Zerostat can help mitigate it when cleaning the record. If by static, you are instead meaning electrical noise thru your speakers, that is something entirely different and can be confirmed by its random nature. Finally, if you are referring to pops and ticks from your records that occur at the same points during playback, these are either defects or foreign matter in the grooves that may be cleaned using ultrasonic techniques. If you good clarify the above we could help further.

[Mark-sf]

Christian, you should realize that the 4000c has a line-level output since it has a built-in phono pre-amp versus a phono one in your 4000/4002. Therefore the screening and grounding are of more importance on yours. It is highly unlikely that Sound Heavenly manufactures their own wire but buys it in bulk from a supplier. What is it about the 4000sc’s wiring that you find desirable?  I have custom-wired several hundred Beogram 4000x’s in my time so could provide guidance if you’d like.

[Mark-sf]

That adjustment is your azimuth and really cannot be done visually. A static measurement assumes the diamond and cantilever is perfectly orthogonal to the record surface which is seldom true. Unless you have a measurement capability to check for optimum channel separation using a test record, you should not try to fine-tune this adjustment.

[Mark-sf]

Check out the service manual either here as a Silver Member or at beomanuals.com. You need to open it from the top and you can find the endpoints on the large pulley and near the left of the tonearm base illustrated in the manual.

[Mark-sf]

In reality, dynamic speakers are only nominally 4 or 8  ohms. They vary their impedance with frequency. A manufacturer rates an amp’s power into a load. Therefore as the load goes from 8 to 4 an amp must deliver more current to support the voltage needed to drive the speaker. If the amp cannot its voltage will drop which reduces its watts. This just means if both an 8 and 4 ohm pair had the same sensitivity you could play the 8 ohm louder. Both will still work. Simply turn the volume down if you hear distortion from any speaker regardless of its rating.

[Mark-sf]

Can’t really comment on it without more details. However, for $75 it’s a steal no matter its condition. It will likely need an overhaul but there are plenty of parts such as belts, relays, caps, fuses, etc available.

[Mark-sf]

Welcome. It’s great you are trying to assist her. It appears she has a 3000 not a 4000. There are adjustments for both set down point and tracking force described in the service manual available online. I would first check on how clean the stylus is. That can be done with a magnifying glass. How comfortable are you with taking things apart and putting them back?

[Mark-sf]

Yes the E will work fine and trace better since it’s an elliptical shape versus the spherical of the S.

[Mark-sf]

Its conductivity is not functional since it’s used optically to be non-reflective for record edge detection.

[Mark-sf]

You need to adjust your speed as well.

[Mark-sf]

You need a Beogram with a built in preamp. See https://beoworld.org/article_view.asp?id=67 for a list.

[Mark-sf]

The easiest first check is to make sure your counterweight has not moved. Is the arm able to go down by adding more tracking force?

[Mark-sf]

Welcome to the forum! You can find the service manual online which describes testing for the detection signal. If you are not comfortable with soldering and desoldering I would fine someone that is. While replacing caps and relays is called for as a general restoration strategy nothing is harmed to wait for a failure if it’s working fine. You can even live with the detection issue if it’s not simply an adjustment.

[Mark-sf]

That paint is not conductive as it only needs to be non-reflective. I don’t have a specific recommendation as B&O never published this to my knowledge.

[Mark-sf]

A Beogram 1900 would be a less expensive option and still have the squared form factor and matching finish.

[Mark-sf]

Welcome! Your problem is likely the amp and not the turnable. Which amp do you have the speakers plugged into? Can you describe the nature of the noise (hum, hiss, thumps, etc)? Does it have a headphone jack you can try? If so do you hear the same noise?

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