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18 November 2024 at 17:46 in reply to: Advice Needed – BeoSound 9000 + BeoCenter 7700 + BeoLab 8000’s #61024
MadskpGOLD MemberA little suplement to Guy’s answer:
The Beocenter 7700 do not use the same IR control codes as the BS9000 and can therefor not be remote controlled with a BEO4 or Beolink 1000 unless you have a code converter box. If not this might not be that easy to aquire today.
So assuming you do not have this code converter you will not have conflicting remote control as the BC7700 will not respond to the BEO4 and has to be operated seperatly or by it’s own Beocenter terminal or Master control panel 7700.
No matter how if you do the connection via the 1612 or the AUX socket on the BS9000 you should not be worried about simultainiuos audio output as the BS9000 switch away from the input used for the BC7700 when playing CD or Radio.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberIf you are going to just test something the 7 PIN audio AUX cable can work as a full wired powerlink cable. I Usually do this when I need to test something where a fully wired powerlink cable is required.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberHey folks. I’ve been following this thread closely (thank you!),
Great to hear that the thread is usefull 🙂
As soon as I adjust the volume on the BS4, either via the front panel or the Beo 4, the red stand by led comes on and the display freezes on “Volume XX”. I can turn the unit on and off, it responds to remote commands, and generally does what it needs to do, but the display never updates. The only thing that will refresh the display is if I press “Menu” on the front panel, which will allow me to traverse the menu system. However, when I exit out of the menu it clears the display and stays blank when I turn the unit on, off, select sources, adjust volume, etc. Unplugging the power and plugging it back will reset things, but as soon as I adjust the volume on a video source it freezes up again. Has anybody seen this? Is it a known software bug on the early versions of the Beosound 4?
I can’t say that I have much experience with the BS4. However I would suggest that you try to isolate the problem by removing the ML connection to for example the 1611 and the MLGW to see if the problem persist. Hope this is helpfull
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberJust got a mail from Kickstarter earlier today that the project did not reach it’s funding goals. Too bad.
No word from Hall Audio yet as far as I am aware. It will be interesting to hear if the plan on releasing the product anyway
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD Memberand the Beosystem 3 into either 0 or 1, the Beosystem 3 does power up if I select a video source, such as DTV. My Beosound 4 display shows that source, and the channel number, so it would appear to be ‘working’.
I wonder if you can do the option setting via the IR eye on another product. I am not sure that will work.
However, I am getting no video signal out of it. It’s a Mk2 so it has DVI outputs rather than HDMI but I have a DVI-HDMI adapter connected, and then I have connected it to a normal PC monitor just to test it. I am getting no video signal. I have tried Format 0 on the Beo4 remote to switch between TV and cinema mode, and I have tried both of the DVI outputs, but I am getting nothing. The power LED is on, but I get no display.
I think what happens is that the BS4 is activating the BS3 to get the sound from it, but since it does not need the picture the BS3 might just start up picture muted. You could try to do the same scenario with the BS4 and your BV7 in the same option settings to see what happens.
I have a spare IR eye but don’t have the right type of cable for it (3.5mm jack), but I see that Steve at Sounds Heavenly sells those, so I’ll order one and see if I have any luck with that.
If you any cable with a 3.5mm stereo minijack in one end you could cut it up and use that to conenct. Of course you can not rely on the color coding then, but if you have a multimeter you can measure which part of the 3.5mm minijack goes to which wire.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD Membermy understanding was that the Phono and Tape 2 input buttons would work dependent on what was connected to that input – if you had the Beogram 4500 connected to it, you would be able to control that by remote, and likewise if you had a B&O external tape deck connected instead.
I can verify to that. This only has to do with the control. There is only one physical input for either Phone or tape2.
One way to extend the inputs would be to add a B&O MCL2AV link room system which you would connect to the Aux input of the 9300. You could then connect your internet box and REVOX tapecorder to that, and switch to them using LINK room commands on your B&O remote.
While this is entirely possible (i just tested it) the control would be very clunky.
First you would have to activate the AUX input with for example the TV command
Then to activate one of the inputs on the MCL2AV (which should be set top L.OPT 4 for this to work) you would have to press Link + shift + radio + 6 (for tape) / 7 (for CD) since the MCL2AV only can adress the inputs with CD or TAPE commands if it is B&O datalink units that are connected.
The If you would regulate the volume on the BC9300 you would have to press TV again before you can use the volume control.
So possible but clunky.
I do not have a better solution by now other than some kind of manually operated switch box to divide one of the inputs in to two.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberAbout the customer menu I just tried accesing it on my V1 by pressing menu, choose setup, press red and press go, and come right into the Customer service menu. However there is nothing regarding siftware updating there
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberI just looked at the software install instruction for the V1 and it says: Unzip the two files and place in the root directory (not in a folder) of a USB stick
It sounds like you only have one file? I think there should also be an XML file
Another thought is if the TV can see the USB stick. Have you tried to put a media file on it and go into the Home media source to see if it is visible?
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberIf my BS4 is in standby and I select a main source such as CD in the Beoport app, then the source displays on the BS4 display, the CD spins and plays, but my Beloab Pentas do not power up – there’s no sound. If I select a TV source such as DTV, then my BV7’s display shows that source in its display, but the screen does not come on, and no sound is heard. They will then only go into standby if I hold down the standby button on my Beo4, for the ‘All Off’ command.
It sounds like the Beoport is working like a link room and fetching the sources from the the BS4 and the TV to play on it’s local speakers (I don’t suppose you have any connected to it?) which explains why the BS4 and TV starts up muted.
I get the same results no matter what I try. So frustrating considering it definitely used to work – I cannot understand why it has stopped working.
I am not sure why either. In my earlier post in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-pc2-beoport-how-to-set-up-and-use/#post-57453 there was a setup described where the music system had to be in option 0 for it to work, but as far as I can read you got it working anyway.
I can try to do a test with my Beoport and Beocenter 2 later this week to see if I can get it to work
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD Member@Guy: Pin 3 and 5 for left and right signal should be correct
Edit: But I see the point that in a female DIN connector the pins are reversed.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberThese threads may help you regarding the MK versions
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/3372/221888.aspx#221888
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/23424.aspx
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberHello Nick
Great to hear you got it up and running 😀
A nice companion to the BC9500
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberThis is going to be interesting to follow. One thing I noticed in the old thread is the part about adjustment of laser voltage that is done in two parts. Following the procedure in the service manual should probably be ok, but there are som notes about what types of CD’s to use for the adjustment procedure
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberThis thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/fitting-a-new-apple-tv-into-a-beoplay-v1/ might also be of relevance to regarding phsyical size and placement of IR eye on the different Apple TV models
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberThat’s good to know – hopefully all this information will be useful for someone else one day, not just us geeks!
🙂
Madskp wrote: I just wonder why this does not work with the BV8 and BV10? Perhaps because BVs 8 and 10 (unlike the BC6-23) were introduced when digital TV tuners were around, hence the availability of what should be a much more accurate time signal with the TV signal. It’s a shame that this signal will not update attached ML devices, both audiomasters and BL3500.
Technology change could be a reason yes, or maybe going away from the timer function. But yes a shame.
I think that the advice from B&O would be to turn off the time display on the BL3500!!
Yes, a nice and quick fix 🙂 Alternativly take it to the dealer to have the time updated.
Yet another aside/thread drift: The CD player is starting to behave erratically on my older two-way BC2300 – some (not all) discs turn then make noises and spin rapidly backwards! It has the older CDM-4, curved-laser-path CD mechanism and a bit of research suggests that it may be worth replacing C100 on the servo board (the BC2300 equivalent of C2103 on other models). It’s 47uF according to the Service Manual and I know from other threads that I must fit a blue axial Philips/BC – can anyone link me to an exact item that I can click to purchase in UK? I checked Danish Sound Parts and can’t see a capacitor kit for the BC2300 CD board, but I am sure that I have read somewhere that BC9300 was basically a re-packaged BeoCenter 2500 so I wonder if there is read-across from other kits.
Searching google I can see that it is possible to find the blue axial Philips caps in 47uf value, so maybe just buy and try.
Funnily enough, whilst swapping CDs between players last night one of my BeoSound 1s suddenly decided to refuse to play CDs! I simply put it in Test Mode and ran through the CD tests to ‘exercise’ the CD mechanism and it started working perfectly again! That suggests a sticky CD mechanism to me and it probably needs cleaning/lubricating, or just using more frequently!
That is indeed interesting how much effect old sticky lubrication might have on these CD player issues in case of the linear laser mechanisms. Maybe I should try to look into that on one of the defect Ouvertures that I got recently, but thats for another thread 🙂
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberGreat findings, and great that you found the Beolink 5000 and it still worked enough to do the testing.
I have also done some testing her. Since you already have confirmed that the NL/ML converter can adjust the time on the BC2300 I tried with my Beocenter 6-23, BS Ouverture and Beolab 3500.
If I set a new incorrect time on the Ouverture as soon as I confirm with go the time will get updated on both the BS ouverture and BL3500.
I just wonder why this does not work with the BV8 and BV10?
And also B&O might not have thought this through on the Beocenter 2300 if it was not in a setup with a TV that could adjust the time on the BC2300. Of course most People would only notice if they had a Beolab 3500 connected to the BC2300 and the time was starting to be wrong
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberJust to add to that. Even if the TV has not been connected to the B&O app before it should be possible to connect the V1 with network cable to your home network and discover the TV in the app provided the PIN code do not interfeer with that. I have not tried this with a pin code enabled V1 myself
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberYes if I make it a permanent setup I will indeed make an adaptor. No need for soldering – I can just use PL to RJ45 cables and copy @Tignum’s adaptor from here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-connection-hub-beolink-passive/#post-52183 (And I’d forgotten that I had contributed to that thread earlier this year – I must be getting old!)
Oh yes remember that thread to. Could just not remember what the topic was.
That’s correct – you need to use the BeoLink 5000 remote; pressing CLOCK will show the time only on the reverse remote screen. On the older BeoLink 5000 with the CONTROL button you press SHIFT then STATUS and the time is shown on the remote’s front screen. BC2300 will send the time to BL5000 whether in stand-by or playing, whereas BC9500 has to be at stand-by.
Ok I understand the concept now. A little vierd since the BC2300 has a display, but of course many systems before that did not, so might have been to keep the controls the same
Incidentally, I was just reading about the Ouverture clock in its User Manual, and noticed this text (my bold): Note: If you use the BeoSound Overture in a fully integrated Bang & Olufsen AV system (see page 39), the clock must be set via the TV. … which does suggest that a Videomaster clock takes precedence over an Audiomaster clock. Hence the NL/ML Converter (when set as V.Master) can correct the BC2300’s clock.
Ok that make sence then that a Video Master is the Master clock in the system. However B&O might no have thought this through for the BC2300 without a Video master and connected to a Beolab 3500. Of curse if the clock was set correct from the factory it would probably hold up for years, so might not have been an issue before the batteries in the units began to get old
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberIf it is a Pin code request it should show something on the screen to let you input the pin code.
What remote did you use before?
Using af Beo4 it needs to be one with the little joystick to navigate the menu system on the TV.
Location: DenmarkMadskpGOLD MemberI don’t know if it is the case here, but on some B&O systems the plastic parts i not a connector, but more a kind of strain relief for the cable. In that case you will have to unsolder. Not easy to see if that is the case here
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