[Madskp]

A little down this page https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78664&KW=Peter+Pan&PN=0&TPN=1 is a (not complete) list of software revisions for BEO4. Some of  the text is in Danish, but hope it can be usefull.

Th list indicates that the N.music/N.Radio functions must have been added in SW 4.2.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

It looks like he has a user account on the current forum although some months since last activity https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/users/die_bogener/

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

jfrancis49 wrote:

There are a couple of copper wires that connect the main board to the “chassis” of the BM 2400 which I unsoldered while replacing the parts, and soldered them back after I finished. I will check the other cables that run to that board.

I just found some photos of the inside of the BM2400 and can see that the connections and cables I was talking about on the BM3000 is made quite differently on the BM2400. However bad connections could still be worth checking.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There are some limitations in distribution of HDMI sources to masterlink.

This older thread might help you https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/40202.aspx

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Hi everyone,

We are experiencing some server/website issues.
We are flat out trying to find the issue.

Sorry for the issues.

Thanks for informing about the issue. If it is any help in troubleshooting the problem I have noticed that the site got slower and slower around a week before it was not possible to access anymore

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The behaviour of your touch buttons got me thinking about a Beomaster 3000 I worked on some years ago which after my work had both non working touch buttons, and also the volume would just go up by itself.

I got some suggestions in a thread here on Beoworld about the transistors in the touch button circuitry and replaced some of them without any change in behavior.

But then at one point I noticed that the flex cable between the two PCB’s under the touch buttons had some bad connections (broken cable where it was going through the PCB), but also that some of the wire ends from the flex cable was bend and touching each other on the solder side of the board.  solving these issues fixed the problems with the touch buttons.

So I would suggest that you look into those connections s they can easily be bend or damaged when working on the system.

I don’t know if the BM2400 PCB for the touch buttons is also divided in two or if it is using the same flex cables, but I hope this can be helpfull in your troubleshooting anyway

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

If that does not work it might be an idea to look into if similar parts can be found in a TV from the MX series. These might be easier to find than an extra AV9000

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I was wondering if I should switch the amplifier component from the 3000s onto the 4500s, to make a pair of BL4500s instead.  Not sure it’ll be worth the bother though.

Maybe check if the speaker foam looks ok on both of them. But other than that probably no other reason than scratches and fabric wear that could be issues

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The displa colors are mentioned here https://beoworld.org/beolab-4500/

I guess the 3000 and 5000 share the same display

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The 4500 is an updated version of the 3000

Look here https://beocentral.com/beolab4500

I am not sure if display colors are different like on the Pentas (yelllow vs green)

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

T.W.G wrote:

Should the Playmakers show up in the B&O app?

I my case it does not. Even after setup as described above I still just get the go to wireless settings and choose the wireless network with Playmaker in it’s name message.

So not sure what the intention from B&O is behind this or if they have just forgot that it is shown in the app and should have been removed

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Jonathan Norris wrote:

I have been advised to replace it with a non rifa foil cap equivalent 100n x2. But without suggesting which one to use, I dont suppose you know of one? T.i.a

I just replaced with a Rifa of same specifications in my Playmaker, thinking if it can last 10 years it might be just fine.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello

Rifa caps (I guess thats the brand of them?) have a bad reputation of going bad due to aging, moisture, thermal stress etc. try to do a Google search on Rifa caps for more info regarding failure of them.

Therefor I would not recommend to replace with a used one as this might also blow anytime soon.

I was advised in another thread to be sure to get a replacement with an X2 marking which the installed one might also have.

And lastly use gloves when you handle the burnt one. The residu will smell for a long period, so avoid getting it on your fingers

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

If not, given your wifi is 2.4 compatible, the integrated web server should make it. There is no bonus trying to use the B&O App, it is just useless.

Good to know that we are not missing out on something.

Thinking about it I also do not think that the current Bang & Olufsen App would give any benefit since the Playmaker do not support any Beolink or multiroom features.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I was able to use the old BeoSetup app (no longer avail) to do a ‘first-time’ setup the Playmaker.  As described in the instructions, I had to first go into the iPhone wireless menu, disconnect from my home wifi and connect to ‘Playmaker_AP’, whereupon the BeoSetup app (but not the B&O app) could be used to complete setup.

I have never downloaded this app while it was available, so can not check, but I guess it’s probably an easier way to navigate to the web interface than typing in the adress in a browser. Or does it have other features than the web interface?

Guy wrote:

I found the Playmaker setup menu under the published IP address of http://169.254.11.22 – so perhaps it is indeed just different for the Mk2 Playmaker (or perhaps it is only for first time setup via cable – I haven’t seen a Mk2 manual).

Ok I just realised that when I used http://192.168.1.1 I was actually connected to the wireless network the Playmaker makes, so at least for the MK2 it is possible to connect to the Playmaker network and set it up via this IP adress.

But to check the cabled network setup I did a double factory reset (first with the button as per instructions in the manual, and next in the web interface). At no point was I able to connect to the Playmaker by using  http://169.254.11.22 . However when using an IP scanner I found that the Playmaker had the IP adress http://192.168.1.175 which I also have noticed at another point.

Accesing the web interface without having done any setup the status page on my MK2 Playmaker shows this which confirms the wireless and wired network IP adresses

Edit: The IP adress http://192.168.1.175 may just be a DHCP provided IP from my router, but none of the less it is not the fixed IP that is mentioned in the manual for cable setup of the Playmaker.   

Hope this is helpfull for anyone setting up a Playmaker

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Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great to hear that it was so relatively easy to solve the issue 😀

my Almando switch only have the 2 Powerlink inputs which is fine in my setup, but great that yours had an extra input

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I agree with guy that the two proposed solutions are the most user friendly options.

Guy wrote:

A powerlink switch like this to enable two devices to share the speakers:  https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69067-powerlink-switch/4162-powerlink-speaker-switch/

If you do not need multiroom features the powerlink switch might be the simplest of the two suggestions as it’s mostly plug and play. I would just like to mentions that there are other products like that. For example the brand Almando has similar solutions which can switch between even more inputs so you can add a music streamer like Sonos Port, Airport express, Chromecast Audio or whatever you wish. https://almando.com/Multiplay-Stereo-III_1

I do not have experience with the current version, but have an older one that has been working without issue for around 10  years now.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I just added a picture to an existing post where I got the error before, so seems to work now.

thanks for the quick response on these issues 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I just tried to update my latests post in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/reply/65219/ with at picture but get the message:

“Error Reply cannot be empty” in a red box

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Multicare wrote:
Another test
Seems to be working now

Thanks

Location: Denmark

[Author]

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