[Madskp]

Yes I think the motor windings must be connected to the three solder pads. You might be able to see some of it in some of the photos in this thread https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/628.aspx?PageIndex=4

Which wire should connect to which winding might not be clear though

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

When I initially set up I had the beolabs playing by using the remote and then pressed play on the ir eye. After I disconnected the beloabs I used the remote to control the ir eye.

Just to be sure about the setup: Is it correct that you do not have any speakers connected directly to the Beosound 9000?

James Powell wrote:

Only two things occurred between it working and not. I used the remote to turn on a non-b&o tv, and an electrician changed a dimmer switch.

Hard to say if these things could have affected anything, but anything is possible.

James Powell wrote:

The IR eye had a loose connection so I replaced the lead for a new one. I

Did you replace the lead with an original one with the same color coding? If so did you double check that all the wires are connected correctly and that there is no strain from any of the wires touching anything than its dedicated screw terminal in the IR eye?

Link to connection drawing here https://forum.beoworld.org/wp-content/uploads/beoworld_images/19037/5tq0lkuk2cjvunxl14bj3g0zpr5wz9e0.png

James Powell wrote:

find it odd how the IR eye is receiving a signal from the remote (it blinks when I hold the OFF button or blinks when I follow the process you showed above) but cannot process a proper command.

I think that the IR eye might be able to react if just ground and 5V is connected, but if there is an issue with the data wire the signals might not be passed, so it is possible that there can be an issue with connections as mentioned before.

James Powell wrote:

I am tempted to purchase another masterlink cable to see if it is the problem?

Also worth a try, but I would suggest to check the above first

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Could you try to post a picture of the place where you do not see a connection. Just to understand what the issue is

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Christopher Sutcliffe wrote:

Q2 Assuming that I can get these connectors off how do I clean it, do I just dunk it in IPA overnight or some such or is there a special procedure?

As far as I remember I just wiped the motor shaft with a cloth soaked in IPA.

Christopher Sutcliffe wrote:

Q3 The motor also seems to be pressed into a metal plate, is it best practice to press it off before cleaning?

Not quite sure about this, but Maybe my pictures or those in the linked thread can give you some answers

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might find some inspiration for disassembely of the motor in this thread where I disassembled the motor

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/boegram-cd50-carrige-slow/#post-66138

Feel free to ask if you need any clarification and I will try to refresh my memory on the subject

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

paddy2042 wrote:

Sorry a bit of confusion. There is no BV8 in the equation as this is toehold TV that has been replaced by a Samsung!

My bad. I meant that I do not see a need for Masterlink between BC2 and BS3 in this usecase.

paddy2042 wrote:

I tried your trick of removing the Masterlink for the BS3 but it made no difference.

You might try to redo the option settings for the Beossytem 3:

• Be sure that the entire system is in standby
• Hold down standby + list on the BEO4
• The text in the display should change.
• Press the list button until OPTION is shown in the display and press GO
• Press list until VIDEO is shown in the display, then press 2 and GO
• The red LED on the IR eye should blink once to confirm it has received the change

This should make sure that the Beosytem 3 receives both VIDEO and Audio commands as it should.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Can you explain how you used them independently. If you were to play a CD for example. I asume you would have to use an other command for one of the zones?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One other note for information. DVD sound is tranfered via SCART between BC2 and BV8

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok. I do not see the need for Masterlink between the Bv8 and the BC2 (and also it will make conflict between BC2 and BS9000) with this usecase, so I would suggest you try to unplug Masterlink from the BC2 (power down all devices before you do that)and see if anything changes

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

How is the Beocenter 2 conencted to the BV8, by Scart or by Masterlink and do you use the DVD in the BC2 to watch films or just for CD listening?

Did you change the cabling when you replaced the BV8 with the Beosystem 3 or is it the same cables that connect to the BS9000 and the BC2?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One more follow up question. When it worked did both the 9000 and the Beolink Active start when you activated a source like CD?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

The passive is in the same room as my 9000 but it didn’t affect it previously

Ok, just to be sure do you also have speakers connected to the BS9000 or only to the passive?

If you have speakers on both could you control them separately before?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hard to say what it could be then

Do you have any other link rooms and are they working?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

I also have a beo4 remote which I prefer to use. Bizarrely, the IR eye will not respond to either remote however, if I hold done the red “off” button on the remote for about 5 seconds the red light on the IR eye blinks..

One thing that could have happen in the link room is that the option settings was changed and affects how it receives IR commands. You can try to set the option for the link room again with the BEO4 by following this procedure:

• Be sure that the entire system is in standby
• Hold down standby + list on the BEO4
• The text in the display should change.
• Press the list button until OPTION is shown in the display and press GO
• Press list until LINK is shown in the display, then press 6 and GO
• The red LED on the IR eye should blink once to confirm it has received the change

Try to see if this makes a difference

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Velbekomme. Håber du får det til at virke.
jeg bor i Aarhus

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok. Det nemmeste til de indstillinger der skal laves er faktisk Beolink 1000, så jeg prøver at beskrive proceduren her.

Når du skal tilslutte Beolink Converteren så sluk for alt det andet udstyr. Når du tænder udstyret igen så tænd først Beosystem 3 og Beomaster 6500 først og vent derefter 10 sekunder inden du tænder Beolink Converteren.

Indstillingen skal laves mens alt er i standby.

På Beolink 1000 tryk i rækkefølge: Picture, 2, Store (dette gør at Beosystem 3 modtage både Audio og Video kommandoer fra fjernbetjeningen). Derefter tryk: Sound, 0, Store (dette gør at Beomaster 6500 ikke modtager fjernbetjenings kommandoer mere, men bliver betjent gennem link kablerne). På den måde er det Beosystem 3 der aktiverer alle kilder og spiller dem ud igennem dens højtalere.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Det er helt fint der er mange specielle ting med B&O kabling og opsætning. Du skyder bare løs. Der er ingen dumme spørgsmål her.

Ift. indstillinger vil jeg lige høre hvilken fjernbetjening du har da det er lidt forskelligt hvordan man laver disse indstillinger alt afhængigt af fjernbetjeningen?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hej Henrik og velkommen til Beoworld

For at sætte dem sammen skal du bruge en Beolink Converter type 1611 eller type 1614 (1611 har lidt mere funktionalitet i andre sammenhænge, men 1614 kan sagtens bruges i din sammenhæng). Converteren skal tilsluttes med et Masterlink kabel til Beosystem 3 og med et AUX cabel med 7 Polet din stik i begge ender til AUX stikket på Beomaster 6500.

Derudover er det nødvendigt at lave nogle indstillinger på hhv. Beosystem 3 og Beomaster 6500 om hvordan de skal reagere på fjernbetjeningsinput i sammenhæng med hvordan højtalere er tilsluttet.

Hvis begge dele er i samme rum er det setup der normalt anbefales er at tilslutte højtalerne til Beosystem 3 lade lyden fra Beomaster 6500 komme ud gennem dem.

Hvis du skriver tilbage om hvordan du forestiller dig at højtalerne skal være tilsluttet kan jeg give lidt mere vejledning om indstillingerne

Mvh

Mads

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

KasperS wrote:

For the X2 filter capacitors will this one work (given the distance between the legs is correct)?: https://www.elextra.dk/p/x2-st%c3%b8jkondensator-100nf-01uf-275vac-20mm/H22282

That would be the one I would pick if you can for sure verify that the broken ones says 100N

KasperS wrote:

Again – thank you very much. (and in Danish: Tusind tak Mads!)

No problem, feel free to ask if you need more input (Velbekomme og held og lykke med reparationen 🙂 )

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

KasperS wrote:

1 – What are the exact specifications for those capacitors?

As far as I can read they are both 100n X2 filter capacitors. This information and the length between the legs of the components should be enough knowledge. X2 is very important in this use case to my knowledge.

And please be aware that there are risk of getting electric shock when working on a power supply even if it is disconnected as the large electrolytic caps can still hold a charge.

KasperS wrote:

2 – Where can I buy them (I’m located in Denmark)?

If you wan’t to buy them locally there are places like Elextra and Elektronik Lavpris, but the component can probably be found elsewhere also

KasperS wrote:

3 – Are there other components that most likely will have failed at the same time?

A known issue is a super capacitor on the large PCB that might start to leak and make some trouble with the IR circuitry. I did a replacement and repair in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/page/2/#post-55660

If you are more lucky than me and get away with removing the supercar without board damage you might just have to clean up any leaked stuff from the capacitor. Be aware that the supercap is difficult to desolder because there is a massive group plane in the board in this area that will suck the heat away from your soldering iron. An easier solution might be to just leave the legs in the board, and solder wires to a new supercap and place it in the expansion bay like I did.

You can try to inspect the area that are below the supercap in normal position to get an idea about any leakage. I have yet to have issues (and have not yet inspected) my primary V1 which has been in normal use for around 12-13 years now, so it might not be an issue.

KasperS wrote:

4 – What could be the reason for them blowing up?

Try to search for RIFA cap failure. This is a very common issue with these components. I would not be afraid to replace them with the same brand again. They should probably last for another good period of time. Use plastic gloves when handling the caps or you will have the smell on you hands for days or weeks afterwards. Also the TV might keep the smell for some time, but it will eventually wear of.

 

Hope this helps going forward with the issue

Location: Denmark

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