[Madskp]

Be sure to measure the distance between the spindle and the metal plate above before unscrewing it. I have noted a lot of comments in other threads that the distance shown in the service manual is not correct, so better to make it the same as it was.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

1.3mm allen key worked for me

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I decided to fix the spindle motor and for now it looks like a succes for me

I did a writeup in my other thread about it https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/boegram-cd50-carrige-slow/#post-66138

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Had some issues with CD’s not playing or starting 1-2 minutes into track 1.

Reading in this older thread https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/628.aspx?PageIndex=1

It is mentioned that this could be due to the spindle motor not being able to get up to high enough rpm to read the start of the first track which is placed in the inner part of a CD.

It seems like a few people in that thread had luck disassembeling the spindlemotor cleaning and relubricating it.

After trying a few other things I decided to do the same. It was actually easier for me than I thought it would be based on the description in that old thread.

I guess it is down to applying enough force on the motor PCB and pressing the shaft against som metal.

Be aware as mentioned in that old thread that the brass ring that comes of has a chamfered edge that has to point against the motor

The spacers mentioned in the other thread did not fall of on mine so I let them be where the were and concentrated on cleaning and relubricating the shaft and bearing

Pressing the brass ring on the shaft again was actually harder for me than getting it of. It is easily pressed to much against the bearing making the motor hard to spin. I found that placing a guitar plector between the motor housing bell and the PCB when pressing the brass ring on gave just the right amount of clearance.

Aftewards it was just placing the CD spindle in the same distance as before disassembely and the reassemble the CD mechanism.

All in all I used maybe half an hour on this.

The result: Every CD I have tried no starts at 0.00 on track 1. Of course I have to long term test it, but I allready think this was worth it 😀

Next up the non responsive Beocord 5000 to keep the CD50 company

• This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by Madskp.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Rob wrote:

Secondly, I was wondering if modern, non-B&O, speakers can be connected to it and how I would go about doing that if so? Also do I need passive speakers or will active ones work as well?

Both passive and active speakers will work. For the passive speakers you will need some 2 pin DIN speaker plugs. You can connect any active speakers with analoginput to the Powerlink connection on the BM7000. You will need an adapter from the 8 pin DIN (as not all pin is needed it can also be a 5 pin din) to either RCA or minijack depending on what the active speaker you connect has for input. Try to look at at the site sponsor Sounds Heavenly webshop. he will have the right adapter for this.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I understand your confussion looking at the manual where the connected active speakers are named left and right. I gues that drawing is just to show how to connect two B&O active speakers with two separete regular powerlink cables. Selection of which speaker is left and which is right is done on the B&O active speaker

Therefor  that setup would also be possible with a Powerlink Y connector only one of the Powerlink connectors on the Beomaster as alle pins in these 2 are internally connected toghther

Hope this helps understand the Powerlink connections

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

To answer the first question, powerlink has both left and right signals in the same connector. Therefore the adapter type with one DIN connector will work fine.

As for quality differences between the two adapters I am not the right one to tell.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Hopefully this should be resolved.

Fingers crossed it doesn’t break something else 🤞

That seems to work for me now. Thanks 🙂

The reason for needing the acces was that another user asked for a readable servicemanual for a Beolink Passive, so I went there to check, but it seems this is not in the archive yet.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I have now tried to lift the Mechanism slightly, and saw an improvement on some CD’s which now starts at 0.00 or 0.03. Tried to adjust the brass know more loosly and that also give this result. However there are still some of the CD’s I am using for testing that starts between 1-2 minutes into track 1, so does not solve every case for me. If I remeber correctly I saw something about CD thickness in one of the older threads. Will have to go back and read up on that

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Thats, in the interim you will need to be logged in for it to work.

Ok thanks for the info. The issue however is also present when I am logged in

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

Yes, I have one of his BeoTooth devices, and it’s very well made.

I’ll explain it this way: The beocord is able to transmit lots of information about it’s current state over datalink: what track it’s on, what side of the tape it’s playing, how many seconds it’s been running, how loud the recording is, etc. It’s a very “chatty” component.  In the example above, it’s transmitting CassetteInfo, TrackNumber, and Counter over Datalink for the Beomaster to display. Most Datalink 80 messages are 1 byte in length (eight 1’s and/or 0’s in sequence, in specific combinations) , but a few status messages are longer, because more information needs to be passed then can be done in a single byte.  Fore example, when the Beomaster sees the incoming. code for “TrackNumber” it knows that the next 5 bytes it receives will include which track it should display on the remote. HOWEVER! of the next five bytes it is expecting, only the last byte received is ever used (AFAIK) for this particular status command, and of that last byte, only a portion of it is used. So the first four bytes of the message could have been jibberish, but the original writers of Datalink 80 apparently decided to send “00000111”, which is translated as either “UNKN” or “14+” on your B&O display. But in practice it really doesn’t matter what is sent – the first 4 bytes of data is not used for anything, AFAIK.  They could have chosen to send something else if they’d wanted to.

The ‘UNKN’ label is basically the English label Ive assigned for the sequence of bits ‘1111’, or the Hex letter ‘F’.  which also represents the number 15 in computer-speak.  It’s the largest number that can be represented using 4 bits.  This is the primary reason why most older B&O systems only count tracks up to 14. On any higher numbered track, it will show as “14+” which is signifies “Track 15 or higher”, and also “Unknown Track Number”.  AKA “I can’t count any higher than that, because I’ve run out of digits”.

IF the last byte is also sent as “UNKN” (i.e five “UNKN” in a row), then the Beomaster knows that the beocord either does not know what track it’s. on, or the current track number is 15 or greater. The Beomaster  subsequently relays that information to a 2-way remote IR or the console panel, so the appropriate number is lit up. In the example above, the last number translates to a “10”, so solely the information in his last byte will cause the “10” to flash on an MCP panel.

Ironically,  the system already has a means to describe any track number between “0” and. “99999” easily, using the tape counter to transmit current track info.  In the example above, the Counter returns “07270”, which will display as “0727” on the MCP (I think- it might display “7270”, I’ll check later). Pilatomic has implemented this feature using the Status counter in his excellent adaptation.

Thanks for the explanation although I do not understand all of it I can see the logic in some it. Also interesting to see that there is some kind of reason for showing only 14+ tracks on many B&O products 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I belive there used to be a servicemanual for the Beolink Passive in the manual library on Beoworld.

However there seems to be an issue accesing the product pages to check right now. I have made a post to Multicare about that issue.

If the manual is not shown in the library when it is active again try reaching out to Multicare and ask for the manual, as there is still a lot of manuals not uploaded to the library

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There seems to be some issue with the product pages. When I try to acces any category I just get af spinning circle like this

Tried both in Chrome and Safari on a Macbook + in Safari on an iPhone

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great that you are sharring your findings here although I think a lot of the members here including myself does not understand the “language” of datalink (or programming code for that matter).

I do however encourage this kind of works as it can sometimes bring great things to the community like the Beotooth 5500 bluetooth streaming device with datalink control that was developed by the user Pilatomic https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beotooth-5500-a-datalink-bluetooth-receiver/

And speaking of that where many other threads about understanding datalink has been about the datalink 86 protocol, Pilatomic is for sure one member here who has been working with the datalink 80 protocol that you are also looking at, so it might be worth to try and contract him.

One curious question to the above. More of the codes you have listed has been named UNKN. Is that because you see some activity on the datalink bus without issuing a command to the system?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great hint. I will certanly try that the next time I work on it.

One thing I wonder though is if it makes a difference to adjust the spindle height vs. Adjusting the lifting mechanism

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Rob Bune wrote:

So a note of warning – the sound heard in the video posted above in my case was not related to the spindle motor issue which the comments suggested was the issue.

Ok good to know. Will experiment a lttle more with the brass know before going into motor issues.

Rob Bune wrote:

For the temperamental issues of the player have you tried cleaning the laser lens – and are the cams on the laser housing all complete and lubricated?

Laser cleaned and all gears in the laser housing is lubricated. Have not checked for small cracks or missing teeths on the gears, so will also do that.

On your player #1 have you noticed if the CD start the counter at 0.00 or if it is a minute or more into the first track?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Good to hear that the brass knob adjustment had some effect.

Even though my CD50 is playing now it still can have time when it spit the disc out at first try. Also on every disc I tried it will start playing 1-2 minuttes into the first track and can sometimes have issues with tracks where it will not play and the counter is just showing the track number. It allways read the TOC though when the disc stays in.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

This old thread might be worth reading into https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/628.aspx?PageIndex=1

Seems to be some succes rate with spindle motor cleaning, but it also sounds like a hard job to disassemble it

One thing I note is in one of the later posts the adjustment of the brass nut on the cam wheel is again mentioned for being responsible in how easy a disc will rotate

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Once you click on the image, it seems to be zoomed in to the smaller thumbnail version of the image.

If you click the image again you should see some arrows to go left/right – click one and it should show you the full size image.
Just working on resolving this. it should just show the large image when clicked.

Oh yes I can see that. Thanks for looking into it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And now after disassembeling and reassembeling things one more time I got it playing again https://youtu.be/1yETrPtyj18

Now I will wait and see for how long it does that. So it might be up to small things. One thing I have noticed is that the brass nut is sometimes moving a little in position. I have now tried to secure it with some super glue at the top to see if that also helps for stability

Location: Denmark

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