[Madskp]

what about mute P200 pin 13?

on mine that goes low with powerlink startup signal.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok I see. I might be worth to look if the mute signal from the Microcomputer changes when the Powerlink pin 1 is active (12V) and inactive (0V), and if it goes all the way to pin 9 on IC305

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

skolesen wrote:

This will probably have divided opinions.
After renovating quite a few Beolink 5000, my BL5K Brother in Arms and I have been working on a white version of a Beolink 5000 that B&O never produced.
This is number 2, judge for yourself!
/steffen

Great modyfication. I do like the concept although for me there seems to be something off with the color combination with the top plate. This can be due to the photo representation. Maybe it looks better in real life.

If one should do a comparison to the official whiteB&O remotes, the MCP 6500 has white background for the black button and the Beoremote one have the buttons so close that there is no background, so any comparison to what “it would look like” if it was an official product is difficult.

I also remember seeing a white Beolink 1000 once. Not sure if it was an official one, but I also think the top plate was white on that.

I however fully understand that you do not wan’t to change the top plate because of the Bang & Olufsen text.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I am a little confused here. Based on your earlier thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-passiv-always-on/#post-65711 I though that the issue was that the Beolink Passive was allways on, but now it sound like you can not get it to turn on after all. Am I misunderstanding something?

ballingfisker wrote:

first with powerlink cable

Are you using af fully wired MK2 Powerlink cable? The Beolink passive is activated by 5V on pin 1 in the Powerlink cable and only the fully wired MK2 Powerlink cable has this as mentioned by Guy in this post in your earlier thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-passiv-always-on/#post-65687

ballingfisker wrote:

then with masterlink still nothing

What have you connected to the Passive in this setup? With Masterlink connection it is intended to be used as a link room, thus you will need and IR eye connected to the Passive to turn it on. Also it might be nessecary to do some option settings with the remote on the BS4 and the Passive in this setup.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Sounds bad. What about the  carrige Mechanism will that still operate? Just tobtry to isolate the issue

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just a tip for searching archived forums. In my experience a google search starting with Beoworld and then the search topic will usually work better than the site search function

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might wan’t to consider how to control the BC2.

For the connection types you are mentioning yourself you might need to first activate an input on the contour and the operate the BC2 either on it’s front panel or with the Beoremote one in IR mode (I have no experience with Beoremote One myself, so unsure about how the switching between bluetooth and IR works). This might be a little clunky user experience to operate.

A more user friendly approach might be to get a Beolink Converter NL/ML which can make the sources from the BC2 visible as sources for the Contour.

Not sure if operation of the DVD part can be done this way, but judging by your post it sound like a nice to have option.

Note that auto update does no longer work on the Beolink converters NL/ML, so if it does not have the latest software version you might need to get it updated by a B&O dealer to get full functionality.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

No experience in this kind of machinery other than my father had one we ocasionaly tried out when I was a kid.

However my memory told me that there was a thread about repair of these in the old forums, so her is a link to that thread. Hope it might be helpfull https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/18355.aspx?PageIndex=1

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Try to look at page 14 here https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/APPS_AND_ACCESSORIES/BEOREMOTE_ONE/EN_1405_BeoRemoteOne_Online_Guide.pdf

that should explain how it is done with a Beoremote One

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Tim wrote:

which option settings would I need to set? Can I use a BeoRemote One IR for it?

If you arguing house the BC2 and the BL3500 in the same room the BC2 should be set to option 0 (no IR) to avoid double commands. If it has been used in a setup where the speakers were connected to a Beovision it might allready be in that option. You can try if you can activate it with a CD command.

The BL3500 should be in option 6 provided you do not have any B&O TV in the same room. If it has been previously been used in a linkroom it is probably allready set to that.

Having never used a Beoremote one I can’t tell you how it is done on that.

 

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

That should work provided the correct option settings have been use previously.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

ballingfisker wrote:

anybody who nows what the readings ( volts ) should be. maybe the microcomputer pcb 3

is faulty.

I have tried to open one of my passives and did some measurements to compare.

One important thing to note.The button on the front is not and on/off button but an off button. If I activate the passive from a B&O musicsystem via Powerlink I can press the button and turn the Passive off, but I cannot turn it on again with the button. On the front of mine it is also named OFF.

ballingfisker wrote:

that is the problem , with only 220v connecet , it is on , the power up is high on p200 pin 8 , and when i connect 5v to
pin 1 on powerlink scoket , p200 pin 8 goes low

This is also how mine reacts, so this should be normal behavior, and also how I think it should work based on the schematic.

ballingfisker wrote:

p200 pin 1 is connecet to on/off switch when i press it it goes low and when
i relece it it goes high .it looks as it is the oppesit as it should be.

The same reaction I see on mine. Also note my comment regarding the button function.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just a few cents from me. I have a set of Beolab 4 sepakers and have an accespoint placed relativly close to one of them. If the distance between the accespoint and the speaker is to short (<5cm or so) the Speaker is beginning to make ticking noises. So these speakers are prone to some interference from other things. Btw. I am using original MK3 Powerlink cables (the thin ones).

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And just to round this up I have also replaced the three capacitors mentioned in Beolovers blogpost https://beolover.blogspot.com/2021/06/beogram-cd50-typical-restoration-steps.html?m=1 which has also been a great reference in regards to replacing the belt.

Last thing to check is the datalin control which I tested by connecting it to my Ouverture

And it is working just great with full control 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

hat said, it may only be possible to have maximum control via the BM8000 IR input. In this instance, the Powerlink cable from the 1611 would go to an Arduino which in turn sent the control signals through an IR emitter, and the line audio output (or input) went through Tape2.  From what little I know about the BM8000, I’ve read that the TP2 jack is fully functional, apart from Datalknk

That makes sense. It is the same way B&O themselves did it  with the MCL Beolab kit that would allow the Beomaster 8000 to be used with MCL82 link room equipment. A. little more on that in this thread if you are interested https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/pile-of-mcl-equipment/#post-62596

That said the need for link rooms with a BM8000 may be down to very few people if any 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

As for the NL/ML converter settings. If you set it up as a Audio Master you can choose to distribute the Core sources to ML Audio source names like CD, A.MEM, Radio, N.Radio, or N.music  or what ever is easiest to control with the Beoremote one.

Madskp wrote:

Also this can give an extra local input if needed.

The extra input form a Beolink converter 1611 I mentioned before can then be activated with any video command like, TV, DTV, DVD etc.

As for the the Beolab 3500 there can be a few settings that needs to be adjusted depending on how it has been used before. If it has been used in a link room on a ML network before you probably should be good to go without changing any settings.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Stan wrote:

Since you have no audio or video master on your masterlink side, you need a master link power box. B&O part # 8052447.

You can read more about it on pg 29 of the BeoLink Handbook http://beointegration.com/uploaded/EN-BeoLink-handbook-v1-7.pdf

Alternativly you can use a Beolink converter type 1611. That will also supply the needed power and might even be cheaper and more available. Also this can give an extra local input if needed.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hve you tried to measure the voltage where you have noted “on”. There should only be voltage there if a Powerlink cable is connected and activated from at Beosystem

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

One takeaway to note is that with a little effort, it appears to be entirely possible to make a cheap translation dongle which allows any vintage B&O component to interface with any other vintage B&O component (something one or two people have already worked on).   So one could,  for example, easily make a dongle which would allow a Beomaster 5000 or BM8000 to work with more modern datalink protocols that the 5500-7000 know how to translate.

Do you mean the Datalink 86 protocol so it would be possible to connect to more modern link system (for example Masterlink via 1611 converter)?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Be sure to measure the distance between the spindle and the metal plate above before unscrewing it. I have noted a lot of comments in other threads that the distance shown in the service manual is not correct, so better to make it the same as it was.

Location: Denmark

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