[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

When using just an ML connection there is no ‘speaker on’ signal that I am aware of, but you would think that the ‘data’ connection would cover this requirement.

I have not tried this with a Masterlink music system, so agree that it could function in another way. I can try to do a test later thisweek with my BS Ouverture and/or my Beocenter 2 to see if they can activate the Beoplay V1 via the NL/ML converter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Yes very good to know what the issue was. Thanks for getting back as that can be usefull for the next person having this issue 🙂

One more of these detoriation of materials issues to the list of rubber belts, speaker foam and what have you.

This kind of issue can not be predicted by anyone even if they had both the servicemanual and the schematics of the TV set.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I got this functionality working with a Beocenter 9300 – 1611 converter – NL/ML converter -Beoplay V1 where I could activate the Beoplay V1 with a press on one of the buttons on the BC9300. It was discussed in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/24/ where the goal was to find out if the same functionality could be had with a MCL2AV with a connected Beogram. The thread might be a littl messy, but I know I had it working.

I don’t know if the Beosound 9000 does have any limitations in this regard, but in theory it should work.

My NL/ML converter is the latest software version.

Djmp wrote:

I can select link->CD on the TV and play CDs and use the Beoremote remote to control the 9000.

I am wondering why you would have to press link – CD. It should be possible to assign the CD source on the BV11 to the CD player on the Beosound 9000 if they are setup as linked products

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello again. Your pin numbering on the 7 Pin DIN is not correct. The numbering shouldbe like the 8 Pin, but without pin 8.

hope this helps

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

sandor szucs wrote:

I have drawn up (what I understand) is the correct configuration for a cable from Power Link to AV and a cable from BS 3000 AUX to AV. Please check for me if they are correct (see files attached).

I do not see the attached file. Could you try to attach it again?

sandor szucs wrote:

One question remains: Which pin should I solder the breaded wire to at the AUX end? Or should I not need to bother with that?

Pin 2 i also ground in the AUX connector like in the Powerlink connector

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

sandor szucs wrote:

Is the above the correct thing to do?

Or should I solder the light grey shield wire from position 8 of the 8 pin mini din to position 8 of the 9 pin mini din.? Or have both those shield wires soldered to position 8 of the 9 pin mini din?

That sounds right. The grey wire in a fully wired Powerlink cable is not ground, so that should be unused.

sandor szucs wrote:

By the way, I like the idea of going from the AUX of the BeoSound 3000 to the AV of the BeoVision 11 however, the AUX socket is a 7 pin. Can I just cut off the centre pin of the power link connector?

No, You will  also need to use another wire pair for the left and right channel since they are connected to pin 1 and 4 of the 7 Pin DIN connector in that use case

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

My best bet would be that another device is also connected to the Beolit 20 and has first priority to it.

This is based on my experience with my Beoplay Earset that is normally connected to my iPhone, but once in a while used with my Macbook. The stability of the connection to the Macbook is very random, whereas the connection to the phone is allways working.

Don’t know if it helps, but just my 2 cents

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

– Disclamer start: I do not have much faith in auto generated answers from chatbots – disclamer end –

Very hard to decipher the Chat GTP conversation, but before you start paying money to repair your Beomaster 7000 you should consider a few things.

If your setup is actually connected like the sketch in this posthttps://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/access-options-on-beomaster-7000/#post-68804 and the Pentas are connected to the TV and only the TV the the Beomaster 7000 has nothing to do with volume control in your main room. The volume for the Pentas are regulated by the device they are connected to, hopefully the TV as advised bye me and other members earlier.

DO NOT CONNECT THE PENTA SPEAKERS TO THE BEOMASTER 7000 IF YOU WANT THIS SETUP TO WORK

Also as far as I iunderstood the devices you had volume troubles with and Apple TV and the PC source, both something connected to the TV. As advised before I would look into the speaker group setup for these connections. Based on what you are telling it sounds like the center speaker on the BV7 might not be in play for dialogue.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You are very welcome.

Unfortunately B&O at one point stopped showing schematics in the servicemanuals because the began replacing boards instead of repairing them.  Therefor it can be hard to figure out which components are in the products without disassembly and measuring.

Narles wrote:

If it is the capacitors under the shield, I am guessing those would be surface mounted components since the back of the PCB has no through-holes in that section?

That is very likely.

Narles wrote:

Thanks again. This is my only B&O product so it really helps to hear from someone with more experience. I tried getting help from the CRT TV enthusiast community but it seems that B&O TVs are such a different kind of product that the regular CRT TV enthusiast community can’t really offer much help for issues like this. Thanks again!

Not much experience with repairs on them. I have had B&O CRT’s some 15-20 years ago, but never had to repair them when I had them.

Not much activity about CRT’s here on Beoworld either. Only once in a while. I guess most people that use CRT TV’s today are retro gaming entusiasts. You might be lucky to find something on the archived forums thought.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

Until I have a chance to experiment with more systems, I’d venture to say that MCL82 itself is primarily a kind of “communication  facilitator”, or “glorified IR extender” with an attached speaker switch, which is hard set in advance to the capabilities and IR protocols of whatever master system is specified

I kinda had a feeling about this since the IR transceivers for both MCL82 and MCL30 are very simple inside compared to the MCL2 trancievers

MCL30 transceiver on top and MCL82 below. I guess the MCL82 one has a little extra components to facilitate the IR transmitter for 2 way communication.

TK wrote:

Stay tuned, I’m nearly there!

Very interested to see what you have come up with 🙂

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There are other B&O products where IR issues are related to bad electrolytic capacitors. In most cases it is capacitors near the IR receiver, so they might be within the metal shield.

Other than that have you tried to reapply options settings to ensure that it somehow hasn’t gone to option 0(no ir)

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might wan’t to consider how you are going to control this setup.

If you wan’t to control both the Beovision 11 and the BS3000 with a remote there a few things to consider:

• The AV input on the BV11 can only be assigned to one source name. So if you make that CD, you will be able to press CD and start both the BV11 and the CD player on the BS3000. However you will have trouble selecting another source from the BS3000 (you can do it on the BS3000 button though). Further more you will have a double volume control issue.
• If you instead assign the AV input to a video based source name like DVD or V.MEM you can active the BV11 with that and then select the desired audio source on the BS3000 with it’s source button. This way you will avoid the double volume control issue.
• Instead of using Powerlink out of the BS3000 you can get a fixed volume by using the aux out pins in the AUX connector. This way you only do volume control on the BV11. If this is smart depend on which of the above solutions you take.
• I will also mention the larger alternative which is the Beolink Converter NL/ML which can give you full integration between the BV11 and BS3000. This will of course be a more costly solution and might be hard find in Australia since they can only be found used now.

Hope this input is helpfull, and feel free to ask for more clarification

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Very interesting stuff.

It could be that MCL82  protocol is not the same for all the products that can use the MCL82 link room boxes though.

If you look at the picture of the insight of a MCL82 link room box there are code switches to select which Beomaster/Beocenter it should communicate with.

https://forum.beoworld.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/beoworld_images/62582/dvnukzpxwaedjk8crbkmw3y8j2esalbl.jpg

This might be an indication that the something in the MCL82 protocol differs depending on which product it is used with. Or maybe it has to do with which type of remote is used in the link rom. I can’t tell for sure, but just something to be aware of

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello

I would not recommend doing that.

Another possibility could be to get a Beolink Active connected to the IR eye, and the use the two passives as amplifiers connected to powerlink on the Beolink Active.

For this to work you will have to use fully wired mk2 Powerlink cables. This also includes the Y cable adapter you may need if you get the Beolink active with only one Powerlink connector.

Hope this can be used as a solution

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok good to know. So I will have to look for at least an original SP1/SP2 cartridge I guess

thanks for the info. Very apriciated

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

and replace the door drive belt at the least.

My recommendation would be to also replace the clamper belt while you have it open since it is relatively easy to do.

 

Guy wrote:

I have never worked on one of these before,

I had one for a very short while which had an issue with opening the glass door. I newer figured out what was the problem before I passed it on to another owner. But my short experience with it is that it is not as easy to work on as the BC2300/BC 2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3000, and the plastic parts just feel more fragile in my opinion.

One thing I did while I had it was trying to remove some of the sticky coating on the surface of it. On other products my experience is that you can rub with IPA until you have removed it and get to a ok looking plastic surface. On the BS4 front panel it was like I could rub down to an ok looking surface, but if I was rubbing to much I came down to a very blank looking plastic surface that was not as nice to look at. So be careful if you try to remove the coating on the front panel

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thank you very much Mark

A follow up question:

I guess this stylus somehow mounts into an existing cartridge, but does that cartridge have to be a SP1/SP2 cartridge or can the one from a SP14 also be used?

Thanks in advance

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You are velcome. Great that it worked out

regarding TAPE2: If the other audio sources work it is not related to the option settings. Not sure what It could be though.

Regarding Apple TV and PC it could be something in the connections setup on the TV. I am not 100% sure, but I belivecyou can assign a speaker group to each source, and these two might not have the right speaker group assigned.

Maybe another user can give a better explanation of this than I can

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Yes my 6500 is also a recent acquisition, picked ot up yesterday in fact! It was a good price because the Beomaster is not working. I think the MCP is working but I can’t check it with the Beomaster not working at all. I will try it with my Beomaster 4500 and Beocenter 9500 when I get home later, see if anything works.

If you still have a MCL2AV you might be able to test it with that. I briefly had a MCP6500 and as far as I recall I got contact with a MCL2AV

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Something in this thread sounded familiar so I looked back into a thread from February where I tried to help solving this issue.

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/speakerroms-not-responding/page/2/#post-63617

If you still have the speakers connected to both the Beovision 7 and the Beomaster 7000 then please disconnect them from the Beomaster 7000, and make the connection in the main room as shown in the sketch below (shown with another TV model)

And as Guy suggest. Disconnect the Link rooms (with everything powered off) and try to concentrate on getting the main room to work before you look more into the behaviour of the link rooms as these can very well be inflicted by wrong setup/connections in the main room.

 

Location: Denmark

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