[Madskp]

ChristianLJ wrote:

I have the correct belt in stock, write me a message if still needed 🙂

Hello Christian

Thanks for letting me know. I have yet to get the two way functionality to work, so have not come to the rubber belt part yet. I will get in touch if I am going to need it

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and welcome to the Beoworld forums.

First of try to take a look in this thread I have made about the Apple remote and B&O TV’s https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/apple-tv-siri-remotes-and-ir-beovision/ . This should give som insight in the possibilities of the Apple remote combined with a B&O TV.

 

There are different approches to your issue as I see it, and some of them might depend on how you prefer to use your system.

BangOlufsenEnjoyer wrote:

I bought a Beovision 8-32 used, and set it up with an Apple TV via HDMI. I put it on AV1 in the menu as a DVD player.

The problem is that my old Beo4 remote does not have a DVD button, but I’ve programmed it so I have CDV button under the list which makes the TV switch over to the correct input. This works okay, but is a bit annoying.

In everyday use, my Beovision TV defaults to the TV signal input when turned on, and has to be switched over manually to the HDMI input via the DVD/CDV «button». What I’m hoping to achieve, is the possibility of the TV automatically displaying the HDMI input as a default when turned on.

First of you should be able to turn on the TV by selecting the CDV command from the list and pressing GO, which should hopefully make the BV8 start on the HDMI source assigned to the DVD command.

 

BangOlufsenEnjoyer wrote:

Alternatively, if HDMI as the default displayed input is not possible, I wonder if anyone knows a more convenient button on the old Beo4 remote that can be programmed to one of the HDMI input modes on the Beovision 8-32. A single physical button would be a whole lot more convenient than navigating the LIST button each time.

This will of course be easier with a newer type of BEO4 with the dedicated DVD button. Note that the BEO4 version with a little joystick instead of the GO button might not be compatible with the BV8-32.

In both instances this will work the best if you turn of the the “Turn on TV” setting on the Apple TV or else it will send the B&O “TV” command the first time you press a command on the Apple remote.

 

To get a more smooth operation you have to possible solutions as I see it

1. Control both BV8 and Apple TV with BEO4
2. Control both BV8 and Apple TV with Apple Remote

For option number 1 you will have to use the built in PUC system in the BV8 which will give you the ability to relay IR commands from the BV8 to the Apple TV with a little IR sender that has to be placed on the front of the Apple TV. Your BV8 might not have the PUC code for an Apple TV, but this can be updated by a B&O dealer. Alternativly you can use any other PUC code and let the Apple TV learn theses commands.

For option number 2 the HDMI input has to be assigned for the “TV” command as this is the only one the Apple remote is sending to turn on a B&O TV. I am not sure if this is possible on the BV8-32 and might also depend on software version. But in short if it works you will have to turn of both the analog and digital TV tuner in the service menu to free up the TV command. Then you should be able to assign the TV command to the HDMI input.

Hope this input is usefull, and please writhe back if you need more info on some of the options I have described, then I or an other forum member might be able to help you get it up and running.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Update – I received the cable from eBay (9 PIN Mini AV to 3 RCA – Yellow, Red, White) and tried to connect my GameCube to the BV11 with that cable but it didn’t work.  All I got was a buzzing noise and a blank screen when I switched the GameCube on.  I’ll have to keep looking for the official B&O SCART adapter.

You might have to get the official cable (or get one made). Probably none of the other cables you can buy are made for use as an AV input cable for a few B&O TV models. It seems that the mini din among other things has been used as an output connector on Sega Genesis consols and the pinout used for them is different (even between models) https://tms-rgb.com/guideOutput.html, so if the cables you can buy are intended for that use they might be no good as B&O AV input.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I also got this error today, and ended up attaching files instead of inserting pictures in the Beolink 5000 repair thread. In the same thread Guy have inserted pictures without issues

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

skolesen wrote:

I normally use this 3M300LSE double sided tape to reattach the aluminium ring back to the keypad.
At the attached picture how its used.

If the aluminium ring isn’t lose I’ii leave it on the keypad when cleaning in warter with dishwash soap.

/steffen

Thanks Steffen. I have just taken out one aluminum ring because it had a big scratch and the keypad it is sitting in has cracks. This ring did not seem to have any glue, but the back had the same surface as the top, so it can be used as a replacement after all.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I just dug out an old BL5000 keyboard (actually one that Beoworld member Leslie sent me many years ago) and prised out the metal circle with a guitar plectrum.  It came out quite easily, but looks like it was originally  glued in place:

Thank you very much for testing 🙂 Will try to do that when I start washing the keypads.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

skolesen wrote:
For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced.
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9016/89901.aspx
Look a little more than half way down.
When I replaced the capacitors in one of my BL5000s several years ago I found Leslie’s post very useful, especially for the capacitor values.  I also made use of the photos from a 2010 post by ‘MartinM’ here:  https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35123.aspx

The photos are no longer attached, but I kept a copy – see below:

Thank you very much for that extra input and pictures. I looks like some replacements are made with tantylum capacitors instead of Elctrolytic. Not sure if it should make any difference. I Have started recapping the Beolink 5000 with missing lines in the display and are using electrolytic capacitors.

For some reason I do not seem to be able to insert pictures right now thought so have attached pictures with before and after replacing capacitors.

After recapping 2 way is working fine with both my Beocenter 2500 and a MCL2AV as shown on the attached picture where the volume is shown in the display.

An extra question that has come up. the best set of keypads is missing the round aluminium ring, but I have that available on another set of keypads. How can this aluminium ring be removed. Is it glued down or only held in by the rubber keys?

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thank you very much for your insights Steffen

skolesen wrote:

I’ve repaired +20 BL5K lately and my experience is that the original display ribbon will fail at some point.
There is a guy in Struer I use my self who can replace the ribbon. PM me for contact details if you go down that route.

I’ll send you a PM for details, as that might be nesesary at one point in the procces or if I choose to get both working.

skolesen wrote:

For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced.
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9016/89901.aspx
Look a little more than half way down.

That’s great. And even greater I have all caps in stock since I bought replacements for my Beolink 7000 remote (although that did not fix 2 way on that). So might be faster that I thought to get going at recapping one of the boards.

skolesen wrote:

For reattach the display I use double-sided tape from RS Component after a good clean to remove the old glue.
https://dk.rs-online.com/web/p/skumtape-dobbeltsidet/1612919?gb=s

Nice, I guess different types of double sided tape can be used, but great to have a known working product for reference.

skolesen wrote:

The artefact on the display is not fixable. At least for now.

Thought so. It not that visible on the display without missing lines, only when seen in certain angles, so I can live with that.

The other one however has a large visible area of artefacts, so that might be the deciding factor for getting the connection to the display fixed or not.

skolesen wrote:

In according to the service manual the only thing there can be ajusted is the contrast of the display.

Ahh yes thanks. I will try that to see if that can help on the visibility of the display 🙂

skolesen wrote:

Hope the above gives you some help and mybe you could get some inspiration for this:
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-5000-finally-a-solution/

Indeed very helpfull input, and thanks again. Very apriciated 🙂

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

pl212 wrote:

Will be curious to see any photos you might be able to take! I

I will take some pictures along the way and share here.

pl212 wrote:

I’ve just hand-delivered my US-market BL5000 to Steffen in Copenhagen for his specialized repair service. Luckily mine was only missing a few pixel rows;

I was also wondering if that was the way to go, but since one of the displays is not missing lines, I will start looking at it myself, knowing that there is a risk of damaging the display cable.

matador wrote:

If both display are likely working it is more than the majority of BL500O still in use (got one myself without display) and both will deserve proper repair.

Only one of the is without missing lines, but dim, so better than not working, but not perfect.

matador wrote:

About the display: you may wait for a confirmation from any other member but when I was still believing my faulty display was from bad soldier join I bought a T soldier tip fitted with some sort of rubber, made to secure the kind of bond that link the remote to the display. It was pretty cheap so maybe trying it would help someway. In my case it was the ribbon cable that was broken so the tool was of no use.

Thanks for sharing that info. I belive that is also how the forums user Steffen is fixing these, but with a new cable.

matador wrote:

I can’t help regarding capacitors but you might find help searching BWI or BWII.

I will go on a search hunt, and share relevant links in this thread

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Congrats to all winners and a merry christmas to everybody 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Waiting to see if christmas comes early this year 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:
Also have a look in this thread regarding the AV mini DIN connector and the official B&O scart adapter

@Madskp Your link didn’t show, but you may have meant this thread (V1 has the same input):  https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-connection-old-stuff/

Yes that was the one 😀 thanks for picking up on it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I had kind og the same thinking in this thread  about the RX2 https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beogram-rx2-datalink/

It seems like there might be errors in some of the service manuals, but if you can find unit at a decent price it would be interesting to hear if the datalink comptability is actually there

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

CharlieWednesday wrote:
I do have one question – I like a bit or retro gaming and I would like to connect my old Nintendo GameCube to it.  I have a S-VHS cable for the GameCube but found that it does not fit into the little round AV socket on the BV11.  Could anyone tell me what kind of plug that AV socket takes?

It’s a mini DIN 9-pin connector.  Sounds Heavenly sell a cable but that may just be for audio input – worth checking with Steve.

EDIT:  From the service manual:

Also have a look in this thread regarding the AV mini DIN connector and the official B&O scart adapter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

jacope wrote:

At first glance, the answer seems to be NO. If I connect the speakers to BV powerlink, I cannot also connect them to the Core powerlink, and vise versa (or can I? Two powerlink ports on the 6000s after all…).

FIrst. Do not connect two sources to the same speaker. The intended use for the two powerlink ports on the BL6000 is to be able to daisychain to another speaker.

But there are solutions to your issue.

The official B&O solution is a Beolink Converter NL/ML which can translate between Netlink used on the Core, and Masterlink on the BV10. Not sure how seamless it works when the TV is Masterlink, I have only tried it the other way around, but maybe other members can chime in on that subject.

Another solution is a device that can switch between two powerlink inputs and let them share the same speaker.  There are different products on the market that can do that:

OneRemote has a product called Powerlink Switch

Almando has a product called Powerlink Switch and a more advance version called Multiplay stereo. Both have bluetooth built in as a source, and multiplay can also take digital audio sources as input.

Hope this is helpfull

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Neil wrote:

on some points raised, yes the MX8000 is equipped with the Master Link module.

It is however not connected directly to the Ouverture, instead there is a 4-way ML Junction box sitting between the TV, Ouverture and a Beolab 2000 (link room).

Idid install the junction box myself, but checked continuity across all links in the junction box, can access TV audio from the BL2000 module, and play CDs/Radio on the Tv as Yann described.

The junction box should not matter as long as you can get the sorces between the units.

Neil wrote:

Following the instructions for DVD audio on the Ouverture, AV + DVD puts it into V.AUX mode, and the speakers switch on. Volume is adjustable without interfering with the TV, but alas, no audio.

Maybe double check the audio connections to the Ouverture in the junction box (red/red-white and orange/orange-white wires).

Neil wrote:

If I put the DVD player/TV into standby mode, the Ouverture doesn’t follow suit, and instead is active until shut down.

Try to hold down the standby button for a few seconds to shut down the whole system.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hej igen Henrik

Godt at høre at der kom styr på det.

og du er velkommen til at skrive hvis der er mere. Der er som regel en her på forummet der kan hjælpe med et problem. Specielt i den engelsksprogede del af forummet.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

For the most user friendly operation speakers connected to the MX8000 in option 2 and then the Ouverture in option 0 is recommended.

Else you will have to have both in option 1 and control it like Yann suggest.

YannChris wrote:

PS: is the MX directly connected the Ouverture or is there a black box (converter) between the 2 products?

The MX8000 has the possibility to have en optional ML module which I guess is the case here as the MX8000 does not have and Audio Aux Link connector as previous models.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Henrik Enggaard wrote:

ved at fjerne PL kabel mellem bs3 & 6500 forsvinder information i penta display, hvorfor?

Der er vist noget med at der er en lille omskifter ved stik panelet på Beolab Penta hvor man kan vælge mellem Audio og Video. Den skal stå på video når de er tilsluttet til BS3. Grunden til at du fik display før var at signalet blev ført over via Powerlink kablet, men det er ikke meningen det skal den vej.

Henrik Enggaard wrote:

endvidere tænker jeg om menu punket LINK hvor der kan stilles en frekvens har betydning for mit set-up som er i samme rum.

Det er kun hvis man vil kunne føre billedet fra BS3 til et TV i et andet rum via antenne kabel. Det er en funktion der nok ikke giver så meget mening med moderne video kilder.

Henrik Enggaard wrote:

er bekendt med jeg spørger meget, B&O er helt ny verden for mig og den er stor opsætningsmæssigt.

Ja der er en del specielle ting at holde styr på, men når det så er sat rigtigt op er brugeroplevelsen normalt også rigtig god

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hej igen Henrik

Det er korrekt at der ikke skal et powerlink kabel mellem BS3 og BM6500,  så det vil jeg anbefale at du fjerner

 

Location: Denmark

[Author]

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