[Madskp]

A cable like this  https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-Degree-Phono-Female-Sockets-Red/dp/B06XDXJLHR  can be an easy way to utilise both inputs on the 1611 converter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The link room IR eye buttons will default to Radio if nothing is already playing.

Since you use the 1611 converter there is no real source, but the 1611 can select between a Video or an Audio input on the AAL connector. Wheether it is an audio or a video input is defined by how your cable between the streamer and the 1611 is wired. See this for a sketch with the two inputs and how they are wired https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/22/#post-42623

In your case the cable is most probably wired for the video input, thus you have to press TV or any other video source on a remote to activate that input.

If you get a correct wired cable you can use audio commands instead, and I belive the buttons on the IR eye will activate that input.

I can try to test this some time next week if you want to have confirmed that it will work.

Hope this helps with this issue

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thank you very much 😀

It’s always hard to judge how much these old belts have stretched over the years

Now to find a place to source them

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Nebojsa Jankovic wrote:

most of the time pin numbers are as in the attached photo, looking at the inside of the DIN plug, the solder side. Also, see some online information specifically for the BG7000 system, BUT in this case, I can’t be sure if the numbers are from the solder side or the face-side of the plug…

Please be aware that the Google AI suggestion in one of the attached pictures is not showing the correct pinout as it shows pin 1 and 4 for audio output where the correct ones are pin 3 and 5, so I would not trust these AI results for anything usefull

To prove my point I tried to do the same google search with 3 different ways to spell pinout and got three different suggestions for the pinout (all wrong and crossed out to avoid spread of misinformation).

I have a hard time trusting these AI results where and old fashion search would have given similar results even if I did not spell pinout the same way 😖

———- Rant over ————

Instead I would refer to something like this

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/cfs-filesystemfile.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.PostAttachments/00.00.28.92.27/Pic-2.jpg

and this thread that might also be helpfull

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/how-to-wire-7-din-plug-to-beogram/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Good to hear that the issue was only a fuse 🙂

The brass knob “tuning” indeed seems to be very important. On my CD50 it was also glued into position besides being hold by the grub screw, which indicates the importance of it’s position.

Hopefully your donor player will be a walk in the park to restore now that you have the experience from this one

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

Severed_hand_of_skywalker wrote:
The Movie Companion.  They have a beosound 3000 hooked up to a Mcintosh and show a close up.
That one must be double checked by Members Guy and Madskp before moderation gives a go….            😀

No no… Only black boxes for me 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

I may come back to you later in the modeling process to check the holes position (I bet B&O does’nt place them randomly and speaker orientation has it’s reasons).

I sure I can get some measurements for that when you are ready for that. The upper pair of holes place the BL3500 display in a 90 degree position, where the lower set of holes gives it a little angle pointing the display more upwards.

matador wrote:

Your debt has been erased!

Great 🙂 I will continue helping you where I can though

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I hope this give the answers you need

I something need to be adjusted let me know and I will give it another go.

Also let me know if you need any other measurements

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Some pictures for starters

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I have one of these pieces of unobtanium in my collection and I owe you one  for the fine drawing you made of the Playmaker stand.

I can not guarantee that I can make something as good, but I can give you measurements, pictures and a scan of the profile of the stand.

Would you prefer the Scan as a PDF or a picture?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

Interesting reading.

Both seems to point out that a failed update doesn’t ‘brick’ the device (Apple Anxiety again…).

In the end I believe it’s just a psychological issue like “if don’t update I will miss new features making my BS1 sounds like a BL90 and many other fancy stuff.

It works, don’t touch anything (because ‘loudness’ is not really a thing I miss – more on my Beolit 12…).

Thanks Mads.

One could argue that as long as it has the features you need like airplay, there should be no reason to update it. I guess it might be more needed for comptability with streaming services like Deezer and Tidal without knowing it.

On a related note it will be interesting to see when these networked B&O devices becomes useless beacuse of comptability issues with streaming services, airplay, chromecast etc. where the last two might be longer lived as long as the device sending the music is compatible.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

4- Yes it has and it was quite a surprise. The web server is the same as the one in the playmaker or the Beolit 12, same look and features that the Beosetup App.
Then, yes, it could be a good place to try the update. But I’m still reluctant to do it (Years of Apple Update Anxiety…).

I fully understand your reluctans. Ending up with a bricked speaker is no fun. Hope someone can answer if it is possible to try again if an update fails.

I don’t know if it is possible to see if the connection to the web server is more stable. I just tried to go into i on an M3 I recently aquired, and my thoughts on this is that you might not be able to see anything about the stability once a page on the webserver is loaded, it will just show it. Maybe it will time out at one point. Off course if it does time out quickly it might be a sign of stability issues on the setup/administration part of it.

Btw this thread might indicate more luck updating from the webs server than the B&O app

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bo-app-failure-to-update-bo-device-firmware/

Although an older thread this might also have some indications on what could happen if an update fails

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/41871.aspx

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just a few thought regarding network without knowing much about the Beosound 1 or NL setup:

1. Where are the antennas placed in this metal cone I suspect at least one of them could be in the top part, and might be affected by the top plate that you mentioned was loose in the other thread.
2. Can you be sure the app is connecting to it via ethernet when you plug a cable to it. The App might prefer the WIFI connection, which could be why you experience a flaky connection with the app where as the airplay transmission might go through the wired connection (not sure if you had the cable plugged in when trying airplay?)
3.  Is it possible to turn of wifi on the BS1 to ensure that it is using ethernet to try if the app is more stable that way?
4. Does the BS1 have a built in webserver? If so it might be a more stable way to perform an update from that than the B&O app. A post by Trackbeo in this old thread might suggest that i has a built in webserver https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/49477.aspx

Hope some of these thoughts might bring you closer to a more stable BS1

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Congrats on your new NL era Beosound 1 🙂

matador wrote:

I was dissapointed (by myself) because I believe the BS1 had an aux-in input.
Not a big deal, but I would have like to pair it with any Beogram just for the look of it.

You know you could just connect the Beogram through a Beolink Converter NL/ML, a Beolink Converter 1611 and an MCL2AV, nice and clean setup……

Ill just show myself out…. 😉

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and welcome to Beoworld.

What a gift you got there, hopefully it is working.

To connect the speakers you will need two Powerlink cables with the round 8 Pin connectors.

Other than that a BEO4 remote can be usefull, but not mandatory.

Bang & Olufsen is still hosting the manuals for the Beosound 9000. Just do a Google search for that + manual and it will show up as one of the first results

Hope this helps you get it going

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Great to hear it worked out with the right cable 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Also if you want to double check your wirering, it is the orange/white-orange and the red/white-red pairs that transport the sound

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

If they have a battery it is most likely soldered, so no easy removable, and might not affect these issues.

This might be a long shot:

On the BL3500 try to acces Menu + Menu + 0 + 9 + GO

It should say ML ON. If not try to change the value with up and down arrows and accept with go.

 

You might have allready have tried this (so sorry to ask this) try to check the volume level on the BL3500 and try to activate the mute function a couple of times

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The error 4 is called data collision in the service manual, meaning to much trafic on the ML system. That however does not seems plausible in your small setup, so I would advice to look at the cables first.

Does your network cable have metal shielded connectors? That is a requirment as the ground for the ML connection is going through that

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A few thought. The BL3500 do have some testmodes to show if the ML connection is ok.

Menu + Menu + 0 + 2 + GO should give status for the ML connection. This will either show: ML OK, NO ML or an error number in the BL3500 display

Location: Denmark

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