[Madskp]

They can be found on ebay, but a special crimping tool is needed.

Another option could be to get a small piece of masterlink wire with a plug and splice the new cable with the existing one for example with a ML junction box or soldering and heat shrinking the connections

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Carolpa wrote:

But be aware that Hall Audio sell you items not in stock and don’t react on any mail send. I ordered some item; no delivery, no reaction what so ever.

I think it might be a case of a one man company with to much work for one person.

I had ordered some of the Masterlink adapters for use with network cables and only after I ordered it I discovered that it was not in stock. I also tried to send a mail with no response. After some time I tried to call on the phone instead and the owner of the company got the order fixed and shipped the same day so I got the parts that was in stock instead. But I agree that it would be better customer service to answer the mail in the first place.

We also had a  nice chat about the ML streamer and how it can be difficult to explain the product to people who are not Masterlink knowledgeable and how that might have affected how many was pledging for the kickstarter. He said that he expected to make some kind of preorder of the product instead at one point, and when there was enough preorders start the production of it.

But again one man to do the job and also busy keeping track of orders of the companys other products may mean that it can take some time before this is going to happen.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Jonathan McCall wrote:

Many thanks – so the black wires are just for grounding ? If I’ve got them the wrong way round I may not actually have the Powerlink cable grounded ?

It could be that, however on the Beogram 2000 my posting was about the metal shield was used as the ground (pin 2 in the DIN conenctor).

If you have a multimeter it might be best to check with diode tester which wire goes to whic pin in the plug as I don’t know if the colors used in the cables is always the same.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Beo4Hotel wrote:

And I most certainly will, but only after I am done reading and learning more from the Handbook, such a great resource!

Also the older Masterlink Handbook and Master Control Link handbook are very usefull. Both of them have more than one revision, although this is not stated in them.

Beo4Hotel wrote:

I’m a B&O newbie trying to learn what I need to know to build a vintage system in our home using Masterlink and adding to it all the great equipment I dreamt of when I was young but couldn’t afford.

Then you have come to the right place. There are many people here that can help with questions both on system setups and repair of the older equipment.

Beo4Hotel wrote:

However interesting to see that they repurposed the case from a Beolink Active Yes, exactly! That is what made me hope I might be able to repurpose them somehow but to no avail. I might be able to use them for the eyes, but if that is at all possible, it’s a bulky box plus a bulky power supply for that single use only so I will just recycle all those redundant parts.

Come to think of it they might have been part of a system to show a hotel interface on the TV that could be controlled with a BEO4. But to work it might also need a server part.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Jonathan McCall wrote:

Does the 7000 communicate with the amp and the amp then sends a signal to the 4500 via Powerlink, or is there an IR receiver on the 4500 ?

The IR receiver is in the amp and the communication is via the cable (datalink)

Jonathan McCall wrote:

Im wondering if it’s when I put the RIAA board back in. There were 2 black wires next to each other and I’m not sure if they went in the correct way round. They both looked exactly the same.

I checked this for another member  on af Beogram 2000 in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/how-to-wire-7-din-plug-to-beogram/#post-53422

In that case one of the black wires was not i use an the other connected to the outer screen of the plug. Hope this can be usefull.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Beo4Hotel wrote:

Thank You! I take my hat off for your knowledge! That is great news, and I don’t see Auto-Contrast as super important for my use. Now I need to read the Handbook very closely.

No problem, and just ask if you have any followup questions regarding this.

Beo4Hotel wrote:

And BTW, these eyes were used with a box from Otrum for PPV and the MX4000 etc. I doubt I can use that for anything useful but I attach pics of it anyway.

No probably not usefull in other application than what they were used for in the hotel system. However interesting to see that they repurposed the case from a Beolink Active (based on the engraved text under the conenctors) for this product.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Also forget the color of the installed wires and look at the diagrams in the Beolink Handbook to be sure to wire it correctly

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You should be able to use the eye with the correct wirering. Since it only have 5 screw terminals it is not an autocontrast type.

Itis probaly the type to use with a 7 Pin DIN plug for use with Beolink Active, Beolink Passive and Beolink Wireless 1. But if only the three wires are conencted it can be used for many more things.

See these threads for more info

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/ir-eye-with-without-autocontrast/

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-passive-ir-eye/

Also the Beolink handbook has Pinout for the different types of IR eyes for different applications.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Beo4Hotel wrote:

By the way, do you know where to find new reasonably priced plastic “surrounds” for the displays? And maybe displays too since some have dead pixels?

Just to let you know that displays for BEO4 are also available for the Beoworld shop https://beoworld.org/product/beo4-display/

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m not sure what (if any) option on the BS Essence would work with that setup.

The essence is not a ML product and therefore it does not have option settings. What you ahve to do in the NL/ML conveter is to choose which sources from the Essence is redirected to which source in the ML system. In your case N.MUSIC would be the obvious, but if you did not have a TV you could also redirect the Essence source to a video command in the ML system

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:

A very good idea to get opt. 4 to products that do nat have that 🙂

And also a very good way to utilise some black boxes 😉

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

matador wrote:

When in A.Opt 4, does all command need “Link” pressed before or do some commands like Volume and Mute work as usual?

All commands will need LINK first. A thought: You could perhaps connect a Beolink Active by ML to the BS9000 (in the same room). Speakers also connected to Active. BS9000 in A.OPT 0. BL Active in L.OPT 4. And the PM could be connected either to the BS9000 AUX (LINK then A.AUX), or to the Active’s PC input as a local source (L-PC).

A very good idea to get opt. 4 to products that do nat have that 🙂

But in order for Matador to get the functionality requested I think it would be better to use the L and R out in the PC connector of the 1636 (see this thread for pinout https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-active-1636-pc-input/#post-43100 ) to connect to the line in of the Playmaker. Hope this makes sense

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

Well, that proved spectacularly unsuccessful, went through the Meno 0,0, go several times and down the list to the bottom option, then factory reset button, the system seemed to respond, but it didn’t, maybe there is another code to action this request! Anyone?

I do not have experience with factory reset, but I would assume that it had an effect on settings in the TV. Hopefully someone else can chime in

stotty1111 wrote:

Had another idea, because the tv is a heavy lump to manhandle etc I could use the BC2 as a standalone without masterlink and  connected to the tv by the scart lead or the scart/hdmi, and use the BL6000’s for sound, as I think the tv has good sound output from its internal speakers. Comments please before I embark on trying this!

If you only need DVD playback this could be an option, but as mentioned before you can not get the other sound sources from the BC2 via scart. However CD’s could be played through the DVD interface

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Glad to help, and great that it worked 😀

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Yes the MK2 is usually fully wired. For testing you can also use a 7 pin audio aux cable

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You will need a fully wired POwerlink cable for the Beolink passive to be activated by the BV7.

I actually used a Cona this way for a BV8 and maybe also for a short while with my Beoplay V1, so it is fully possible.

Wheether there are some sound wise things like frequensies that is not right I am not able to tell.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

The 10-40 after programming takes several pushes of the TV button on the Beo4 to boot up the tv, is this normal?

That sounds odd that it should take longer after a option programming. Is it faster again at next power up?

stotty1111 wrote:

If I reset the tv to factory default using the Beo 4 engineering state, I assume i would lose all programming – is that a correct assumption? Any other ideas out there?

Yes you will most probably have to setup TV channels, connection settings and option programming again if you do that. However if you can live with that it might be a good idea to do that to rule out what could be wrong in regards to Masterlink on the TV.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Since you have the N.music and N.radio sources from the Beosound 5 you will not be able to use these sources from the Beolink PC2 as there can only be one of each source in a Masterlink system.

If I understand correctly the issue is because you use the 2 Beolab 2000 for sound in the bedroom?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Option setting looks right.

It might be a physical defect then.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Sounds very much like it’s the BV10-40 that has an issue.

To verify the option settings on the BV10-40 you could try the following (found in an old thread):

MENU 0 0 GO brings up the service Menu.

Monitor / Monitor Info / lists the Option Setting

Regarding the scart connection this should not have effect on audio sources. A scart connection is setup to a specific source ( in this case DVD) and will therefor only send control signals for that

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Author]

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