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Yes that does look strange, but if there is a problem I am surprised that it passes all the Test Modes.
I look forward to hearing whether a new laser cures the fault. Fingers crossed!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ah yes, sorry I can see that now when I read the whole manual!
B&O has had a habit in the past of making late modifications to PCBs by adding such components, but I doubt that they would do so for such a relatively modern element that should work as designed.
My most relevant CD repair experience is all detailed in this thread, but the CD on my BC2300 was CD Pro rather than CDM12: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50375
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
just wondering because I have never seen anyone uses home number since 2008
Welcome to Beoworld!
The analogue phone network is still in use here in UK – switch off is delayed until at least January 2027 because of the number of vulnerable users who reply upon it for such things as personal/house alarms and telecare. I still use my BeoCom 6000s and Beocom 2 as a home phone (landline) because the mobile signal is intermittent where I live.
Even after analogue switch-off, I will continue to use my Beocoms as a landline with a VOIP adaptor.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I am not sure whether you have the service manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold Members), but the following extract may well explain the extra resistor and capacitor (Edit – possibly/probably another resistor?), and can I see a surface mounted diode (green LED?) in the second picture? Is pin 6 of 8IC1 still short circuited to ground? If so you may wish to revert and try again.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I can’t help with the overall problem, however I had a quick look at the Service Manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold members) and it would appear that you can change the voltage by re-wiring the transformer, and the tuner variant (Japan to USA) can be changed by cutting (or perhaps re-instating) certain jumpers on the tuner board.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I’m about to list some Atari 2600 consoles/games on eBay on behalf of a family member. It’s great to be able to activate the analogue tuner on my ‘retro’ BV10-32 and check that they work! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to our friendly forum! Hopefully we can help you get set up and connected.
To answer your question about which ML source should connect – it doesn’t matter! In a masterlink setup all the masterlinked components are connected in parallel – effectively they all share the same connections. If you have a spare socket on the distribution box then you can connect to the NL/ML converter from that.
I think that when you come to set up the NL/ML Converter, you will have to set it up as ‘Source Centre’ because you already have a Videomaster (the BV10) and an audiomaster (the BS3000) on your ML system. However, my experience on NL/ML Converters is quite limited so please have a read of the setup manual (do you have it?) and try to work out what is best for you. I am sure that other forum members will be able to advise further.
Good luck!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
The LCD display itself in mine fades to nothing over a couple of days and I have to re-boot the phone to restore it, but I can’t bring myself to investigate further as it’s too stressful a process!
Quoting myself, but I just wanted to say that, after several weeks of use (mostly sat on the charger) the LCD display in my BeoCom 2 no longer fades away as it did before. It seems that many B&O faults seem to go away the more you make use of the equipment 😀. In another example, my previously intermittent BeoSound 1 CD player has been running smoothly since I started using it more.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
What output connection does the Bluetooth receiver have? If you can described that or post a photo (and one of the Beocenter!) we can suggest a suitable cable.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ideal tool is ‘circlip pliers’, the sort that you use for compressing an internal circlip inwards to remove (you can also buy a version that stretches the ‘external’ clips outwards). The pointy ends are inserted into the two holes in the battery clip (not the screw holes, the other ones), and squeezing quite hard then reduces the size of the clip so that you can remove it.
Alternative technique that I have used: Use the two small screws that hold the base on and screw these into the ‘removal’ holes. Then you may be able to use normal long nose pliers for the same operation. Be careful not to bend the screws (ask me how I know!) 😀
EDIT: If not already moved inwards, this plastic tab may need pushing inwards to allow the clip to reduce in size (I think mine were already pushed in):
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Do you have anything connected to the Masterlink (ML) socket of the BS3200?
If not, you could add a Beolink Converter 1611, connected to the BS3200 by Masterlink. Then connect either your Beocord or Beogram to the AAL socket of the Beolink Converter. If you then put the BS3200 in A.OPT 2, you will be able to select this device by pressing any video input on the remote (eg DVD). This then leaves the BS3200 aux socket free for the other component (Beocord or Beogram).
The Beolink Converter is a useful solution for adding an extra aux socket to the BS3200 (and other systems) and allows you to select inputs using the remote.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
“\nGuy wrote:\nI am leaving the Essence\/Passive set up for a few days to see if I experience any longer term problems using a fully wired RJ45 to PL lead.\nGreat, then we can see if the long term issue that Steve mentioned in that other thread do apply in your case”
I have had to pack the equipment away again today, but in the two weeks that the Essence Mk2 has been set up, the standard, fully-wired RJ45 to PL cable worked perfectly to turn the Passive on and off at the appropriate times. There is a delay after using Bluetooth, but this is expected because the Essence waits a while (by design) to send the power-off signal over the PL socket. At random times (pre- and post- shutdown) I checked the voltages at RJ45 pins 4&5 and they were identical.
For the last week or so I added my Beoplay M3 to the mix to see if additional NL devices had any effect, but there was no change to behaviour. I didn’t add the NL/ML Converter (or any ML devices) to the test, so that is one thing that could potentially affect the Essence/PL behaviour, but I doubt it would make any difference.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Iconic AV used to sell a set of replacement straps but I am not sure if they still have them available.
Maybe worth getting in touch here: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/item/942/Replacement+Straps+for+BeoVox+RedLine+RL+45+-+RL+45.2+-+RL+2000/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
If you look down into the display can you see two light sources, like in the photo below?
I once had a problem with a Beocom 6000 where a couple of the (four) light sources were not illuminating. It turned out to be dry solder joints, and reflowing the solder fixed the problem.
If taken apart, the two BC2 light sources (LEDs?) are as shown in the picture below – they ‘project’ the light through a clear plastic part (EDIT: visible to the top left of the main PCB below) to illuminate the rear of the LCD display:
I am not sure whether I would go to the trouble of dismantling a BC2 if it’s a problem that you can live with! The LCD display itself in mine fades to nothing over a couple of days and I have to re-boot the phone to restore it, but I can’t bring myself to investigate further as it’s too stressful a process!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I think that the safest way to approach this is to use the service menu, go to ‘Monitor’ and choose ‘Reset to Factory Settings’.
Make sure that you note all your other settings first thought – go through the normal user menus and take photos, especially ‘Connection Settings’.
If that doesn’t work (or you don’t want to reset) then I think you need to use the service menu to go to ‘Picture adjustments’, ‘Picture service menu’ and then ‘Geometry adjustments’. But be careful making adjustments – note the initial settings and take photos so that you can restore back to what you currently have.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I am not sure if it helps, but the attached document suggests that the Mk1 and Mk2 BS9000 require a min software level of SW2.2 in order to get full ‘source centre’ compatibly. I am not sure that I fully understand what that means!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Carl,
Great that it all works – thanks for coming back and letting us know 👍
Regards Guy
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
… but both the Essence (pref Mk2) and NL/ML Converter have powerlink outputs and either could act as a ‘hub’, depending on what you are hoping to achieve.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Maybe you could buy a non working BM3500 and use that as the donor for your Beomaster?
The danger is that you then end up fixing the ‘donor’, still need a glass panel and the search goes on for a third … 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
