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Assuming that the Beo4 has a GO button in the middle (i.e not the NAVI version with the joystick)
Press Power (Red dot) and LIST together.
Press MENU and GO together.
Press LIST until CONT: XX shows on the screen, where XX is a number in the range 00 (lowest) to 15 (highest)
Press two digits of new contrast required (start low, eg 0 4)
Press GO to confirm
Press Power (red dot) to exit menu.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Photos as promised:
Beocom 6000s Mk2:
The one on the left is an upgraded BC6000 Mk1, whereas the one on the right is a Mk2 clearly showing the Earset 1 connection:
Beocom 6000 Mk1
The two dots on top are merely covers for the IR transmitter/receivers – there is no earset socket:
You can pick up BC6000 Mk2s quite cheaply nowadays, and it is a worthy upgrade from the Mk1, with a better menu structure and a more reliable RF chip. Just make sure that the one you are buying definitely has the earset socket as shown.
EDIT: And I am not sure where you live, but one advantage of the Mk2 is that (unlike the Mk1) you can change the language of the menu. You should therefore be able to buy and use one from another country.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Only the Mark 2 Beocom 6000 (with the INT button to the left of the circular wheel control) has a headset connection, and there is no need to remove any plugs.
(Some Mk2s are modified Mk1s and do not have the headset socket because it was not part of the modification)
I will attach photos to explain when I get home tomorrow.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Andrew and welcome to Beoworld!
I think that your best bet is to find the user manuals for the TV and work through the first time setup. I can’t read the label in the picture, hence can;t be sure what version your TV is – there were several mks (at least 1 to 5). If it’s a 7-32 then this B&O link tells you how to work out the version and has some of the manuals: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041950211-Beovision-7-32
Be aware that the TV may not be fitted with a tuner that is compatible with modern TV transmissions in your country of use. (eg here in UK TVs need a digital DVB-T or DVB-T2 tuner, and these may not be fitted in early BV7s)
Your first photo shows the power lead connected at the top – the same as the circled power connection in my photo earlier in the thread.
I think the white cable is connected to the powerlink socket, which would normally supply a Beolab speaker that would sit on the bracket in your second photo (but I am not sure why the cable appears to change colour to black!
Have a good look in the documentation and ask back here if anything is unclear.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
You probably need to adjust the ‘FM offset’ – quite common if the set has been serviced and the tuner section disconnected or the microprocessor disconnected from the backup lithium battery.
The process is explained on pages 5-1 and 5-2 of the Service Manual, which is available on Beoworld to Silver and gold members. It is probably worth replacing the lithium battery before adjusting the FM offset, as explained here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300-puffer-battery/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have had a similar humming/feedback problem with PC speakers – I can’t remember 100% but this may well have been with my BL4s. As far as I remember there were problems when a speaker was either too close to the PC screen (all sorts of high frequency signals inside there!) or too close to a B&O phone PSTN (potential interference from the DECT phone signal). Does re-positioning your speakers away from other components make any difference?
Either way, I would think that a good quality cable should help resolve.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
i have to ask are you a repair guy i need som pointers where to look fore faults.
Sorry but I can only help with very simple faults, but if you post more details of the fault that you are finding then others may be able to help. The pictures that you have attached are not very clear, in that I am not sure what you are trying to show.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I think that the only difference is that the BeoLab 4 PC do not have powerlink sockets, hence either will work with a PC.
I bought the ‘standard’ BeoLab 4 for use with my PC, and connected via 3.5mm (line-in socket) using this cable from Steve: https://soundsheavenly.com/beolab-4-and-4pc/79-336-beolab-4-4pc-input-cable-minijack-connection.html#/4-length-3m
I tried using them with the Line In switched to ‘PC’, where they go to stand-by if there is no signal (both versions do this). However, I found that the ‘switch on’ delay was annoying – i.e if the PC made a chime noise as an email arrived, then the speakers would only catch the last bit! I eventually moved the switch pack to ‘Line’, and made a new double power cord with a switch on the cable; resorting to simply powering the Beolabs up when the PC was in use.
You could always use your Beoport if you want them to switch on automatically whenever the PC is booted up.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have just tried to direct message you with a copy – hope it works!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have got hold of a RiAA with 7 Pin Din connectors where the datapins are reversed throug the unit.
Is it this one? https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69068-riaa-amplifier/4199-riaa-ii/
(I assume that it swaps the datalink connection from pin 6 to 7)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
ok have orderet 2 5m cables for my beolab penta ,trye when they arrive.
If they are Beolab Penta then they have built in amplifiers and wouldn’t need the Passive. I assume you mean Beovox Pentas.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
found out that my powerlink cabel , there is no connection in pin. 1 and 6.
In that case it’s a Mk3. You need a fully wired Mk2, like this: https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/23-319-powerlink-mk-2-compatible-black-8-pin-din-cable-with-fully-wired-8-cores.html#/9-length-18m
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
i connect it to beosound 4 thrue masterlink , do i need the ir eye to make i work as poweramplifier.
Yes. Usually masterlink would be used to connect the Passive in a link room, and the IR eye is then needed to control.
If using just as an amplifier for the BS4, then connect with Powerlink (Mk2) only.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I just tested with a Passive Type 1657 SW1.4 (with the little switch). With no connected cables (PL or ML), when powered up, the light comes on Red. The switch has no effect, and the relay only makes a noise when I remove the power.
Perhaps yours is faulty, or has been modified inside somehow to make it permanently ‘on’.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Here’s that photo as an attachment which may be better resolution enabling you to read the button labels!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Received a Beo4 remote, believe it’s MK4 with the DVD button available.
Unit powers on fine, TV, RADIO, CD and A.TAPE buttons work fine.
If it’s got a DVD and an A.TAPE button then it’s either a ‘Mk2’ (second from the left below) or a ‘hotel’ version (i.e: not pictured below – unless very special/rare CINEMA version):
First thing I wanted to do was perform a full reset on it before pairing etc. then quickly hit a wall.
Not sure what you mean by reset or pairing. Neither is possible (or indeed requied) with that remote!
Try viewing the end of the remote with an iPhone ‘selfie’ camera, and see if the IR transmitters glow when you press the Power or LIST buttons.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I checked the BV1 service manuals available on Beoworld, and unfortunately they don’t go down to circuit board level. BV1 was one of the early B&O products that moved to a system of ‘module replacement’ rather than component level repair, with faulty modules being sent back to the factory.
If the BV1 was based upon an earlier B&O TV then there may be a similar service manual available, but failing that I would think that a good old fashioned TV repairer (if you can find one) could has a good guess at the component required. Or perhaps a Beoworld member has a BV1 that they are prepared to look inside.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Can you answer the revised question?
Ah I see! In that case the answer is a firm ‘no’ – getting the info out of the Beocom/PSTN is not possible.
Maybe scroll through the phonebook whilst videoing the screen, and then use AI to produce a readable copy. Totally beyond my capability, but I could imagine it being possible!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Is there currently a way of copying a shared phonebook to/from a Beocom 6000.
Welcome to Beoworld!
The phonebook on a BC6000 is either stored on the handset (‘personal’) or on the PSTN (‘common’). You can change this in settings.
If the handset is already set to ‘common’, the numbers will be stored on the PSTN, and you should be able to access them from any handset connected to the same PSTN (as long as that too is set to ‘common’).
If the numbers are stored on a handset (‘personal’) and you change the handset type to ‘common’, the numbers stored on the handset will be deleted, and replaced with any stored on the PSTN.
If the numbers are stored on the PSTN (‘common’) and you change the handset type to ‘personal’., then the numbers previously stored on the PSTN will be copied to the handset.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Is this what you need? (from the ‘Fan Adjustments’ section on page 4.9 of the service manual):
In this menu, the following settings can be made:
Fan full speed temp 45-64
Fan stop speed temp 36-50
Fan PWM min. 16-39
Fan PWM max. 20-41The following can be read out:
Fan 1 speed 2057 RPM
Fan 2 speed 2002 RPM
Temperature 1: 42c
Temperature 2: 24cLocation: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
