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Did you clean the black part with the white pin with an arrow in the middle – not sure what it is called – to the left of the drawer motor. It will corrode and could cause all sorts of problems.
Looks like D10 is shorted. Will change it.
Finally had some time to look again, and also I understand the schematics a bit better now.
Checking the voltages on board P9. On pin 3 there should be 40V but I measure around 26V – it drops ever so slightly and keeps dropping until 25.87V when I measure with the multimeter. 40V is supposed to come from 2P14-6.
On board 2 P14, pin 6 gives me also around 26V – logically. Seems like it passes through C10 which I did not change – it measures 57uf capacitance and should be 47 – so I guess it is slightly out of spec – could that be the issue?. P18 measures the specified -40V.
On board 2 P24 should give me 11V but it gives around 5V.
Any help is appreciated.
Keine Ursache. Du brauchst 2 Powerlinkkabel (die hast du schon), und 2 Stromkabel (davon hast du schon einen). Also brauchst du eigentlich nur einen Stromkabel (Euro 8-Form) zu kaufen, oder du hast einen übrig von einem anderen Produkt, den du verwendet kannst.
Falsch! Die beiden Lautsprecher benötigen Stromversorgung.
Look at the muting relay. It may have corroded.
yes. I have an RDS BL7000. Worked before the recap of the BM.
Also no readout of RDS. Guess I will have to seek professional help.
Well, that was an easy fix. A wire had broken off. After soldering it on, I also soldered one pin on the big chip on the panel as it looked slightly suspicious, and now 2-way IR is back. It now reports the radio channel. Yay! Still no read out of Volume, and it seems like the range is limited.
I’m getting a little bit frustrated. 1-way function was working. I decided I wanted to play a new record that I bought today, so I assembled the Beomaster. Now, IR does not work at all. And I didn’t touch anything. Must be a connection, I guess.
Regarding TR10:
Base to Collector: 0.570 V 3.3 M Ohm
Base to Emitter: 0.273 V 333 Ohm
The diodes have been tested and they check out fine. I have inspected the board and there are no cracks as far as I can see.
Hm. I have about 28V on the diodes
Hmm – I have a hard time trusting my ESR metre. On the front panel board, I get open line readings on these:
C3, C5, C7, C8, C9, C11, C12, C16, C18, C23, C24
However, testing with the multimeter, only these ceramics give me no reading/reaction:
C5, C11, C23, C24. Still it’s a lot of ceramics …
Putting power on the board, only C5 is suspicious with a voltage across it of 0.142 V DC
Thanks 🙂
I have a Beolink 7000 and Beolink 5000. Both of them worked before I recapped the Beomaster. Highly unlikely that both of them would fail at the same time – especially since I repaired their 2-way communication module 1-2 years ago.
I replaced the 3V battery – didn’t actually need to as it measured 3.1V after all these years still.
Yes, I checked the option.
The display is okay.
I replaced on the front panel these capacitors – they all had very high ESR measurements
C15 1uf/100V ESR 40.3 BAD
C19 2.2uf/63V ESR 14.2 BAD
C20 10uf/63V ESR 2.30 BADAfter this, I checked that the amp was working but I did not check 2-way communication.
I also replaced 2 capacitors on the CPU board – both of them gave no ESR whatsoever:
C1 100 uf/10V – measured capacitance 14.7 – way out of spec
C57 47uf/10V – measured capacitance 11.7 – way out of spec
So, I presume that I may have done something wrong with one of these capacitors – or they need to be a certain brand. The two from the CPU board were the blue Philips type as well as two from the front panel.
Hey – I also show as Bronze member but am in reality Gold member. I am sure the programming will work out at some point.
Set the Beomaster to Option 1. On your Beo4, press Standby button (the red dot) and List at the same time. Your Beomaster will turn off, and the Beo4 will show Option. Press 1 and Store or Go (I don’t remember).
Oh crap – I don’t want to spend that much time on it since I rarely record anything on tape. Thank you for the answer.
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