[filip_kbh]

Here are a couple of videos of my loading mechanism problems – I don’t know how to embed the videos. Sorry that the speak is in Danish. What I basically say is that the mechanism is jammed, preventing the tape from being the item that unlocks the mechanism. However, if I turn the wheel under the machine, it will unlock and work.

https://youtu.be/gVU-HhJbuJs (mechanism out of machine)

and

https://youtu.be/wsfIXUdFwMU (mechanism in machine)

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Haha – no, I mean on the left side, seen from the front.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

My problem with the loading mechanism is definitely the white worm wheel. The mechanism is smooth without it. Once it is inserted (correctly with the timing mark), the mechanism will become unstable and lock up in the right side. I am not sure if the spring part under it is assembled correctly. Any help is appreciated.

Also I noticed that the VX 5000 is getting very hot in the left corner away from the mechanism. Is that normal?

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

The gears are adjusted exactly like your picture shows.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

As you may remember from above, I had a broken drive gear. I tried to epoxy it but either my epoxy has turned bad or it was not mixed in the right ratio – in any case it was not strong enough. But, hey – the Internet and YouTube came to my rescue. I tried the – new to me – old trick of using super glue and dipping it in baking soda. Incredibly, it turns hard as stone instantly and the part was again useable. Wow!

Here’s a picture:

But I still have a problem with the loading mechanism, and I think it is because I may not have assembled it correctly – perhaps the spring in the drive gear is the problem? The symptoms are:

1. the mechanism seems to be locked in the right side, so I can’t get the machine to accept a tape.
2. if I manually turn the big white wheel under the machine – called the clutch assembly – the mechanism is not locked. The tape moves in a bit and the machine happily engages the loading motor and accepts the tape.

 

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Why not just clean the lens from both sides. Look up the thread about fixing laser on Beosound 9000. There’s a video that shows how to do it.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

And … there is a broken piece of plastic in the insert/eject mechanism :/

I wonder if it can be epoxy’d together ….

But of course that will not fix the speed fluctuations.

 

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

So, I got the belt for the capstan motor. The great news is that the tape loads, the counter counts, the VU meters work, fast forward, rewind and eject work BUT the bad news is that the speed is changing and there are dropouts on the Hi-Fi track. Is there known error for this? I closed the deck and tightened the screws, so I did not check if the bolt is attached to the guiding pole which was mentioned in the old thread about how to repair the VX 5000. I guess I will need to open it to see if that bolt has come lose and is hidden somewhere in the machine.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

The red cap – you mean the polyester cap? It’s not polarised so it doesn’t matter how you put it in. Can we see the back of the board also?

I don’t understand the part about: “The player started OK but when I moved it to the amp it did not read the cd anymore.” Do you mean that it played okay on your work desk when it was assembled? You then physically moved the unit, hooked it up to the amplifier, and then it didn’t work?

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Strange that we would only get the normal/standard VHS version in Denmark/Europe – but perhaps it was because S-VHS never really took off here.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

C2103 was changed? Looks pretty old and original to me. I changed mine to a blue Philips type 47uf/40V.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Maybe a picutre of the board after modification would help.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Was the VX 5000 available as S-VHS in the US?

I have seen multiple pictures online sporting the S-VHS logo and also this ‘review’ from Hi-Fi Stereo Review mentioned it is S-VHS.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

In the manual for the 7-4 it says to use a specific type of Powerlink cable as others can cause hum.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

I picked up at VX5000 for free yesterday.

Opened the bottom, and the belt had turned to black goo. Cleaned it up, ordered a new belt, and changed 4 SMD caps on the capstand motor board. All of them had leaked but there were no damages to the board. I then turned the VCR on briefly, and it was alive. I quickly turned it off again as not to ruin anything, and as I still need the belt, and some cables to actually be able to see if the video works. I don’t really plan to used the VCR but it has a nice design. All it is missing is the front panel that covers the buttons.

Belt had turned to black goo:

Capstan board with four SMDs that needed a change:

Can you spot the leakage from the SMDs?

 

The capstand board after replacement of capacitors. My local caps pusher only had Philips and Nichicon caps in these sizes:

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Nice!

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

If I read the schematics correctly, the fault could be between 1TR2 and 1TR3. So start by testing those two transistors.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

C2103 is the one all important capacitor to change. Search on the forum and you will get a lot of hits. There could be others but I would start with this one. Since I changed it in my Beogram 7000 CD player, it plays absolutely everything. Before the change, it was very picky about which CDs it would play.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

D10 and R18 on the powerboard, not the computer board. On the computerboard the F 1A fuse blows, so will have to restore the proper voltage rails first.

I will need to do some more measurements when I have time. Thank you for the help so far.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

D10 was indeed not working. Also R18 was defective. After replacing these two, I now have +40V back on p14-6. Yay. A small victory.

There are still some problems though. On P18-5 I now don’t have -40V – I have no idea why as it worked before. And none of the voltages on P15 are correct, so I don’t have 28V on p15-6, I don’t have 12V on P15-3, and I don’t have -12V on P15-2. Sigh. P24 also still gives around 5V instead of the specified 11V.

Location: Copenhagen

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