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Here is a recording: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/mzdzpocwz6rork3kb361g/VX5000_lyd.mp3?rlkey=mc5cz7lzpptfmgp6gtnv1hhka&dl=0
The pressure roller looks dry and slightly cracked. I can replace it with the one from the VX7000 which is in perfect condition but I don’t know if that could be the issue?
I have only tried old tapes so far but they do the same thing. I have not turned any adjustment screws.
Wider – no. Deeper yes. As you rightly say, the cutout is different.
Anyway, I changed the cassette holder base and put the one from the VX5000 in the 7000 eject mechanism and put the whole thing in the VX5000. Happy to report that play, FF and Rewind are now working.
There is still a wow and flutter problem with the sound so that needs to be fixed. Not sure where to start with that. It comes from small speed ‘jerks’ it seems.
And looking at the VX7000 and VX5000 mechanisms, I now see that there is a crucial difference. The part called Cassette Holder Base is much wider (edit: I meant ‘deeper’) on the VX7000 mechanism, causing it to press on the Reel Drive Idler. I initially thought that the two eject mechanisms were fully the same, except for the materials chosen.
So … I think I have narrowed down what the actual problem is – though I have not found the solution.
If the tape eject mechanism is not in, and I put a tape in the machine, it will play, reverse, fast forward etc. (there is still a wow and flutter problem that I don’t know why is there).
However, when I put in the eject mechanism, nothing really works. It can play but will make tape salad after a few seconds due to the take up real not engaging. Looking at the eject mechanism when it goes all the way down, it will press on the reel drive idler. I presume that due to this, it will stop working – unless this is normal behaviour?
Carried out functions 16 and 7. Everything reported back as functional with status 37.
Still no working RDS. I guess I need to measure the 12 and 5 V connections to the RDS board first to see if it is actually getting power.
Hmm – I tried to do what you wrote. After putting it together there was no change. However, I did have some success – not sure why.
After covering the light sensor, I could see that the take up reel was spinning both during play and fast forward. Maybe there is some misalignment somewhere as the eject mechanism was actually in the up position (as in no tape there). I then put in a tape, and it would fast forward and reverse. Screwing down the eject mechanism, I could hear that the forward motion started to struggle, so I didn’t screw it down completely. Play still chewed up the tape as the take up reel would not move. I ejected the tape. Inserting it again, I could hear the motor spinning when fast forwarding but again the tape would not move 🙁
Yeah – that thing flew right off a few times but I found it. I glued it back on.
Here is a pic of the gearbox:
The symptoms are:
- Play works on the left reel but the take up reel does not move, so the tape soon becomes tape salad
- Fast Forward and Reverse do not work. I can hear the motor spinning but the tape does not move.
As a side note: the VX7000 that I received was also eating the tape. The reason was hardened grease under the take up reel. After cleaning and lubrication, the tape is no longer eaten. Anyway, I am not so interested in the VX7000 as its functions are very limited without a suitable Beovision.
The FS arm is the blocker. It does move away if I turn the small motor to the right.
However, the damn thing wont either forward or reverse. I am clueless at this point.Thank you, Martin – but I was lucky enough to get a VX7000 for free today, so I have taken the mechanism from that one.
However, I still have one problem:
The reel drive gear is driving me a bit insane. I cannot get it to touch the take up reel. I have looked in the service manual but there is definitely something that I am not seeing. Any tips? Seems like there is a plastic hook underneeth the right wheel that prevents the change.Here is a video of the problem
Looking further in the Service manual, it says to carry out functions 16 and 7 in test mode which I have not done. Could that be the reason for RDS not working?
I managed to fix it. I had to remove the metal shield to get access to 4TP1 and short circuit it to ground. Now the frequencies are correct. RDS is still not working.
Perhaps the crossover filter needs a recap. Since the sound is not great regardless of using the amps or not, it points to either the crossover filter or the mid foams IMO. The placement and distance to walls can also affect the sound.
I finally had time to check the FM board. What a hazzle to get it out. Removing 16 screws marked A – some of them quite hidden.
All the caps on the board test fine – that is the good news.
I am pretty sure that the fault lies in the square part 5105 which is just called ‘coil’ in the service manual. It is an IF can with a condenser, and it seems that the condenser in these dies for whatever reason. Since I don’t know the specification, I don’t know if a replacement part can actually be ordered from somewhere, or if it can somehow be repaired by replacing the condenser. Anyone has an idea?
I will PM you.
Is it possible to get a new one 3D printed?
At this point I am ready to toss the whole thing and not spend more time on it. I think it’s the plastic part that I glued that is not completely accurate.
I think mine looks identical.
Here are a couple of videos of my loading mechanism problems – I don’t know how to embed the videos. Sorry that the speak is in Danish. What I basically say is that the mechanism is jammed, preventing the tape from being the item that unlocks the mechanism. However, if I turn the wheel under the machine, it will unlock and work.
https://youtu.be/gVU-HhJbuJs (mechanism out of machine)
and
https://youtu.be/wsfIXUdFwMU (mechanism in machine)
Haha – no, I mean on the left side, seen from the front.
My problem with the loading mechanism is definitely the white worm wheel. The mechanism is smooth without it. Once it is inserted (correctly with the timing mark), the mechanism will become unstable and lock up in the right side. I am not sure if the spring part under it is assembled correctly. Any help is appreciated.
Also I noticed that the VX 5000 is getting very hot in the left corner away from the mechanism. Is that normal?
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