[etype76]

Yes, so you did post that link, sorry I missed it!

I also thought that the slanted lid was simply part of the design. Whether it had beneficial effects on resonance was likely coincidental.

beautiful shot of your BM8000 and BG8000. Unapologetically 80s.

As for cable, I’ve tried many over the years and there’s definitely a difference to be heard. I installed 12m of Furutech cable and hated the sound. Then I switched to QED 75(?) and was much happier. That’s all gone now, now powerlink cable and Steve’s cables and very happy.

[etype76]

Oh, wow. Thanks it’s pretty plain now, I can see the empty screw hole. It must be in the chassis somewhere. Ironically, that part is one of the few spares I have. It might be awhile till I get the time to tackle this but at least I can see the issue now.

[etype76]

I know * audiophile 🙂

[etype76]

As noted, to the audio file crowd the vote is overwhelmingly lid off. On my 4000, I mostly play lid up because I like it and sometimes lid down if there’s a lot going on (situated in living/dining). Cooking can also introduce unwanted oil and our air purifier in the living room shows orange/red when frying (well, when my wife fries on full burners lol). The joys of open plan. Two lil dogs as well but they don’t shed much.

I personally don’t hear any sonic difference up or down tbh.

Maybe you came across this already as it features quite highly up on the Google search. This is what Pro-Ject have to say if graphs is your thing:

https://pro-jectusa.com/2024/03/22/should-i-play-records-with-the-dust-cover-down/

 

[etype76]

Merry Xmas all and congrats to the winners!

[etype76]

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I thought I could embed a video but obviously not. I can’t delete it either.

Attachments:

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[etype76]

Hi, I’m not quite sure what you mean. The servo motor spins as the arm assembly moves towards the record. The arm lowers but there’s a significant delay before the first revolution of the pulley. I checked a video I took a couple of months ago and the first revolution occurred pretty soon after the stylus drop. What specific adjustment relates to this in the SM?

[etype76]

Thanks all, I removed the silicone grease and applied a thin layer of a multi-purpose grease and the vibrations are lesser. I’d like to ask another question but I’ll put it here whether or not related. This concerns the pulley. Playback is fine but the pulley makes its first revolution once the stylus hits the record after about 10 seconds…then it revolves a couple of times as if to ‘catch up’. This can be visually observed looking at the tonearm and sensor arm. Is this normal? I don’t remember seeing it previously but I may be wrong. As I say, playback seems unaffected.

[etype76]

I have a BS4 and it had most of the coating removed except for in he CD compartment which never gets touched. I have my Beogram going into Aux and both are hooked to the Theatre. I like it a lot. Mine can only handle 2gb SD cards as it didn’t get the required update for the 8gb. Not that I ever use SD. The BL4s match the bs4 as they were sold at the same time.

Not owned a Moment. B&O seem to be moving to Tidal nowadays so not sure how much longer Deezer is an option. I think when the Moment goes it’s. Basically an ornament whereas the BS4 could be serviced but only with certain companies.

I don’t think you can futureproof any of this stuff for a decade. Maybe a few years and then good care and luck play more of a part

[etype76]

I’m considering a purchase from UK mmc retipper Audio Origin. I’m for a high end option such as the micro ridge tip with boron cantilever. They state that the number of the cart does not matter as they are all rebuilt so you can’t choose which you’ll get, it depends on stock. Of course, if I’m into B&O then aesthetics and details matter so I would want a cart that says mmc20CL or Mmc4000 -perhaps just my ocd.

As an aside, I have a 20cl and the vocals sound good but instruments such as guitar licks, percussion etc are so far recessed they’re barely audible when compared to my 20en.

I’ve also considered Soundsmith but the current $ strength, shipping, duty makes their 20cl+ an eye-watering layout of cash.

[etype76]

Thanks. I am not in the habit of touching these. I turned the left MOT pot perhaps less than an 1/8 of a turn. I could turn it back to its original position.

Quite temperamental as I noted the issue has gone away for now.

[etype76]

Thanks. That is strange, I see now the markings on the board as well. As you say, if it’s working…

[etype76]

Thanks for the advice. Actually, that led me to a blog post by Rudi and he was experiencing exactly the same thing. Most of the details were beyond my technical level but the last paragraph about adjusting a trimmer slightly clockwise seems to have worked. Now the to tonearm is lifting once again after each side has finished.
https://beolover.blogspot.com/2018/04/beogram-4000-differential-stop-circuit.html?m=1

I’ve circled where I adjusted: I’m not even sure this is what he was referring to but it works now.

[etype76]

Sorry I can’t help much, I don’t have a 5005 but from what you say, and the image of the gauge I’d say it is unlikely to be a stylus pressure issue and more likely an adjustment at the back of the tonearm. You might try and look for a service manual online which usually go through mechanical adjustments. If the issue is electronic then unless you are knowledgeable you’d best find a repairer.

EDIT, and are you saying that the issue is solved when you put the scale over 2g? In short, it won’t damage the Beogram but it will wear the stylus faster and will cause wear on the records, especially if the tonearm has some other issue. I know back in the days when some “hifi” records players were exerting something like 10g! but generally today they never go over 2.

 

[etype76]

I’m wondering too if the very warm weather (where I am) has altered some tiny margin and is causing it.

[etype76]

Hi Alf,

Funny you should mention this issue as I’m currently having the exact same problem with my BG4000. Although I’d say it works perfectly 90% of the time but every now and then when I press ON it automatically switches to 45rpm. This is sometimes accompanied with the arm lowering early before the record although that seems to be even rarer. They sometimes occur together or independently. Both can be corrected with the buttons. Unlike you, I virtually have no electronics skills save for simple soldering so will not touch. If it mechanical then I could have a go. Could it not be the position of the springs?

 

[etype76]

Well, that die-cast bottom chassis looks pristine now!

I measured my Beogram 4000 plinth and I get:

485 x 345 x 25mm

I’m not a carpenter so definitely verify that.

 

[etype76]

I’ll check the dimensions of the 4000 this weekend and post pics.

[etype76]

18s + Core would work very nicely with a Beogram and you could multiroom to other compatible speakers. I believe B&Os expensive 4000c connects via a core hidden in the cabinet.

As for turntable, so many Beograms to choose from but buyer beware there can be a lot of nightmares out there in terms of issues (such as needing lubrication, recapping). Unless you are a hobbyist and want a project I would get one properly restored if we’re talking tangential Beograms (400x, 800x,) some more modern ones look quite nice such as the 4500 and I think there’s a built in RIAA. With others, any reasonable mm phono preamp will be good. Steve at sounds heavenly or Soundsmith are good choices but really so many out there. What’s your budget? Do you intend to buy a lot of vinyl? How much use will it realistically get? I use mine from daily to 2/3 times a week.

Aesthetics will also play a role in your choice I’d imagine.

[etype76]

Nice work! You’ve clearly put a lot of thought into not only the plinth and wood choices but also the practicality of shipping them around the world. It would be useful if you could show sample wood grains/colours etc. When my 4000 has been working a while without issue 🙂 I’d be interested if they are also compatible with the 4000.

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