[Dillen]

No. That’s two different transformers.

Martin

[Dillen]

I seem to remember it can be rewired internally. I don’t have the servicemanual at hand now.

Else: https://beoparts.com/2018/11/22/mains-transformer-220-240v-8013312/

Martin

[Dillen]

Tapehead cleaner, isopropyl alcohol or carburettor alcohol (same stuff) and cotton buds.
NEVER acetone or paint thinner or the likes.

Martin

[Dillen]

It has nothing to do with it being an export model or not;

Beomaster 3000 build-series 1, 2 and 3 tuned to 108MHz.
From build series 4 it was limited to 104MHz.
You cannot “modify” it. You must replace the tuner module and front panel = easier to find the right Beomaster.

Beomaster 4000 was also produced in versions with both ranges.

Martin

[Dillen]

A Beomaster with a bad backup battery can act up in different ways.
If nobody knows which settings and what content is being stored in memory, things really
get quite unpredictable.

Martin

[Dillen]

A cracked solder joint, perhaps.
Check around the voltage regulators.

Martin

[Dillen]

SC20 is for Beocenter 2000/2002.
You would want a SC77:

Martin

[Dillen]

The tuning lights will only come on with a reasonably good antenna signal.
As will stereo reception (and indicator).

Martin

[Dillen]

kronzilla wrote:

Not totally correct. The rl140 used foam surrounds, and the rl7000 rubber surrounds. If you compare the crossover they are the same. But the rl60 has a passive membrane and the rl60 w has a bassreflex. Im gonna refoam my rl140’s with rubber you and not with foam. If the flexibility for both surrounds is the same, just take the most durable ones…lesser sensitive to temperature and moist fluctuations. Ok

Beovox RL140:

Beovox RL7000:
The woofers are identical. The rest – not quite, I think.

Rubber may last longer (or it may not, depending on the type of rubber),
but if you measure the drivers T/S parameters and compare foam and rubber, you will
be surprised to see how much of a difference it makes.
In some cases it will end up an almost completely different driver.
I would stay with foam where foam was originally used.

And keep in mind to let newly refoamed woofers play for some hours before judging/comparing.
They will almost always be a little stiff and sound a bit “stubborn” or “tame” at first, and they will need to losen up a bit to do their job as intended.

And don’t compare to how they sounded with the old, partly disintegrated foam, as having the woofers cones flapping around undampened and
uncontrolled, as they would be, will also be far from what was intended with T/S parameter readings everywhere and nowhere.

Martin

[Dillen]

Beoworld neither can nor will provide a pin code, and neither can anybody else, sorry to say.

It’s part of Bang & Olufsens anti-theft programme.
Best is to bring the original purchase receipt with you to the nearest dealer, but
as a minimum bring the unit in with the serial number intact and visible, so they
can check against B&Os stolen goods registry.
If everything is fine it won’t take long for them to reset the unit.

If it’s stolen, it’s worthless.

Martin

[Dillen]

These decks have very few problems with lubrication, really.
Unless something is not working as it should, there is really no need to do anything.

Martin

[Dillen]

Shorted 1C53 (220uF)?

Martin

[Dillen]

If the cone of the woofer has seized solid (common problem), it can usually be repaired with a little skill.
Before the new forum took over the old forums URL you could look up guidance and tips for repairing your woofer. Several threads in the old (archived) forum discussed and showed how.
Now you will be lucky if google comes up with anything usable.

But, basically, it’s a matter of manipulating the magnet and the pole piece.

Martin

[Dillen]

A small amount of teflon-based “oil”.
A seller on Ebay once had something called “liquid bearing”, that’s very good.
Because it’s not really an “oil”, but mainly microscopic teflon balls, it doesn’t really
evaporate and it doesn’t grab and hold dust and dirt the same way an oil will.

Don’t use shaver- or sewing-machine oil. It evaporates over hours rather than years, and
most will leave some of its additives etc. behind.

Forget WD40. Keep that in the garage for use with rusty cars.

Martin

[Dillen]

So was I.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check the three large filter capacitors.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s my impression, that Multicare is one of the best places, you can send your Beogram.
The trim will be replaced as part of Bang & Olufsens Classics Recreated programme to reflect that, after 50+ years, it was rebuilt professionally.
(Using good quality parts).

I wouldn’t worry.

Martin

[Dillen]

Blown fuse and/or ripple on power supply DC voltages from bad filter capacitors (the three large cans).
A scope will tell.

Also, if present in your Beocenter, check the capacitor on the edge of the CPU board. It’s known to short.

Martin

[Dillen]

I doubt you can find someone selling parts for this particular model, but many electronic components are fairly standard.
Which parts specifically are we talking about?

Martin

[Dillen]

The two screws can be accessed from below at an angle, through holes and passing boards etc.

Martin

[Author]

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