[Dillen]

Check for cracked solder joints – especially where connectors are soldered into PCBs.
Check also the supply voltage to the motor control circuit.

Martin

[Dillen]

They go at the back. Sorry about the bad lighting, but I think you can see it.

Martin

[Dillen]

Somewhere wrong with the motor circuit apparently. Perhaps missing feedback from the motor?
Did you check the speed setting trimmers?

Martin

[Dillen]

You need to take off the whole rear piece with the hinges etc.
Then you remove the two small plastic covers under the lid to reveal the screws.
Ask at Danish Sound Parts if you need a replacement cover, they may very well have a good used one in stock.

Martin

[Dillen]

Will the motor rotate easily by hand?
If not, take apart, replace bearings, clean and lubricate etc.

Martin

[Dillen]

Confirmed by Bang & Olufsen – it is not a Bang & Olufsen catalogue, and they never sold the products shown.

Martin

 

[Dillen]

And no B&O part numbers.
I agree that the wooden cabinet would be a very bad solution when it comes to keeping things cool.

Haven’t seen this before.

Martin

[Dillen]

Bad filter capacitors, perhaps?

Martin

[Dillen]

The teflon sheet is apprx. 2 x 3 cm.

Martin

[Dillen]

Danish Sound Parts can sell you the correct belt(s).
The safety circuit is monitoring the motor load and sends a signal to the processor to shut down the Beocord, if the load is too high.

Martin

[Dillen]

Lay the large black hinge bracket (the rear vertical plate) flat on the table with its backside down. Put it on a thin piece of cloth or similar to prevent scratches and scuff marks.
Place the three small shiny friction plates in place in the hinge bracket, so that they sit aligned with where the three holders will be (photo).
From little marks they have left, you can usually see where they sat previously, and you can glue them in if you find them difficult to control.

Put the dustcover in place in the bracket, also lying flat on the table (in what would correspond to fully open position if upright) and fit the spring to the hinge bracket at the center with a holder, a screw and a washer. Don’t mind the springs ends at this point – just let them flap around as they please until the center holder has been fitted.
The spring has small round ends, that needs to run in the grooves at the ends of the dustcover, so make sure the spring is the right way up, or it will run with the sharp pointed ends in the groove and wear the grooves out in no time.

Then grab one end of the spring with pliers, twist it to upright position and set the springs length down in the groove in the hinge plate (some hinge plates have small tags it needs to go around and between) and set it into the groove in the dustcover.
Often the spring will be able to sit by itself like this.
Put a black plastic holder in place, hold it with a finger or two while you lift up the whole assy and mount the screw and washer from the other side. Alternatively, keep it flat and slide it out over the edge of a table, just enough to fit the screw and washer from below.
Same job at the other end.
Takes a little practice but it’s a 2-minute job when you know how.

More here:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4787/343642.aspx

Martin

[Dillen]

Well, perhaps it wasn’t because you lubricated something but, apparently, “something” happened while you did it.

And of course it can be repaired. They can all be repaired. None of these should be thrown away.

Your Beogram is welcome here – but, based on your IP location, Denmark could be a little too far away from you, and I’m sure there must be someone closer capable of repairing this.
Try posting a new thread asking for a repairer and state where you are based.

Martin

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 3 days ago by Dillen.

[Dillen]

Put to work with any current to speak of – as in rectifier circuits, Schottky diodes can become quite unreliable, and they
will lose their Schottky properties.
They are meant for much finer workings, high-speed switching etc. That’s where they are fantastic.

Martin

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 3 days ago by Dillen.

[Dillen]

In FF and FR the capstans are not supposed to drive the tape but, depending on the situation and operation,
the tapehead bridge will load (partially) allowing for track sensing.

Sounds like the overload circuit is kicking in.
I see this all the time with Ebay belts, particularly from Portugal.
Are the belts correct for this model? Where did you buy?

Martin

[Dillen]

Bad reel table spindle?
See here:

Reel table pulley Beocord 2000 3300 5000 Beocenter 2200

This part can decelop a crack down its hexagonal spine, causing the trident to lock in a low position, not gripping into the tape reel.

Martin

[Dillen]

The “0” in 0TR1 suggest it is NOT fitted on a PCB.
It sits at the bottom of the Beogram.

The speed issues could be down to a faulty relay or trimmer.

But please consider if you are the right person to do this repair /these repairs.
You seem to be lacking experience and you seem to be guessing, neither of which will help.
Not performing the steps and diagnostic suggestions provided only adds to the mess.
With all respect, and I mean this in the best of ways. It’s not an easy unit to service, and definitely not one for a beginner.
You’ve already caused several problems that weren’t there when you started.

Martin

[Dillen]

Schottky diodes would make no difference to speak of.
And they have no place in power supply rectifying anyways, that’s not what they are meant for – or good for.

Check the filter capacitors – also any smaller ones sitting in the analogue circuits.

Martin

[Dillen]

Are your speakers MK2?
If so, the glasses seem to be very dark – perhaps they are in fact mkIII glasses.
See here:
https://www.dksoundparts.com/?s=penta+display+covers&post_type=product

Martin.

[Dillen]

Could suggest that the amp runs not symetrical.
Any DC on the speaker output?

Martin

[Dillen]

The other fuse lives at the back right side, on the board way down in the corner.

Martin

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by Dillen.

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