[Dillen]

I also add a dab of glue to hold the cables in their new position.
Else they will work their way back.

Martin

• This reply was modified 3 days, 9 hours ago by Dillen.

[Dillen]

The two black cables that runs to the carriage is held firmly to the chassis by a small plastic “bridge”.
Pull the two cables just 4-5mm towards the carriage.

Martin

[Dillen]

Pull the covers sides a little outwards and lift it off.

Martin

[Dillen]

The foam degrades from airs moisture.
Even unused original foam sets have degraded and become useless by now.
New foam sets etc. here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job!
And a great looking machine!
A little too much damping grease – the cover should open a little faster and smoother.

Martin

[Dillen]

I doubt this info to be available.
I’m pretty sure it’s a custom driver with specs not disclosed.

Martin

[Dillen]

There are no electronics in the signal path in this Beogram.
I agree, that the hum must come from improper grounding.

Martin

[Dillen]

If the relay contacts have welded, the amplifier section will be powered at all times.
I suggest you check if you have power to the amp section (f.e. by checking if idle currents are present in standby).
If you do, replace the relay.

Martin

[Dillen]

Cartridge off – store in a safe place.
Top alu plate off (two screws from below, push the tonearm in 20-30 deg, lift the plate a little, pull a little), lift out
the switch for the play button at the front and disconnect plug on board.
Now you can access the belt.
Check the motor suspension rubbers now you are in there. They will be bad if not already replaced.
Careful not to trap leads when fitting back the top surface.
New belt, rubber parts etc. can be found here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, it runs warm.

Martin

[Dillen]

Todd Herbert wrote:

Is there any way to get to it, without taking the top surface plate off ?

No.
You will have to do that.
And when you put it back on, make sure you don’t trap any of the front panel leads when you tighten the screws.

Martin

[Dillen]

Todd Herbert wrote:

Is there any way to get to it, without taking the top surface plate off ?

No.
You will have to do that.
And when you put it back on, make sure you don’t trap any of the front panel leads when you tighten the screws.

Martin

[Dillen]

Very nice – but please keep in mind, that the muting system needs to be changed accordingly,
as the models with RIAA mutes before the RIAA rather than after.
And not all type 59xx decks has the output from the power supply to the RIAA module.

Martin

[Dillen]

That’s because speaker set 1 is meant for local use – in the same room as the Beocenter.
Speaker set 2 is typically routed to linked systems in other rooms, where they are muted locally – and independantly.

Martin

[Dillen]

All Beovox S45 have Philips tweeters.

Yours should have the AD 0163 T8 with black dome.

Martin

[Dillen]

Why not an original part?

Here.

Martin

[Dillen]

marcham wrote:

If you have a moment for me to learn, why this recommendation?

Sure.
An emitter-base voltage difference of several volts on a PNP transistor points to a missing B_E connection.
Similarly, the exact same voltages found on base and collector could point to an internal short here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Missing blinding plug at the rear socket panel?

Martin

[Dillen]

Madskp wrote:

My Playmaker let out the magic dmoke one day. Turned out it was one of the filter caps in the power supply that exploded It smelled a lot like smoke and the smell was not gone before a week. I can still smell something inside it. Today I replaced both filter caps snd it looks like it is running again

They are suppressor caps.
They MUST be Class X2 types – nothing else!

Martin

[Dillen]

Lots of potential problems in that photo. Black Roederstein capacitors, old trimmers etc.
Grab a service kit and have it refurbished.

Martin

[Author]

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