[Dillen]

If the platter spins in standby check 0TR1 (TIP32A).
I have seen more than one case of it being bad, not closing the 15V down but instead leaving it hovering around 5-6V.

And check copper traces in the -15V regulator area.
The traces are known to develop cracks near solder pads, that can be very difficult to spot. Particularly if your soldering iron is a bit too hot.

Martin

• This reply was modified 4 days, 9 hours ago by Dillen.

[Dillen]

Clean the stylus carefully.

Martin

[Dillen]

I suggest you contact Beolover.
Contact is possible through his blogspot.

Martin

[Dillen]

Generally:

Without a record on the platter, the carriage with the tonearm etc. will not move in. The platter will just spin for a few seconds while the record sensing system operates.

Using the search buttons will only work while playing. – Not from standby.
And when you use them the light comes on and you must hold the buttons to move the carriage to the desired position – then press play to resume playing.

NEVER use anti-static mats with any Beogram.
1. It’s not necessary. (All alu platters are anti-static, and the ones used on tangential decks will create a soft
vacuum under the record).
2. It disturbs the tracking angle because the record sits higher. This results in distortion.
3. The record sensing system will not work as intended, which could result in a ripped off stylus if the deck takes the mat for a record. This could cause a vacuum in your wallet.

Martin

• This reply was modified 6 days ago by Dillen.

[Dillen]

Here.

Martin

[Dillen]

The drive suspension kit should be available again shortly from Danish Sound Parts.

Martin

[Dillen]

Would the main problem be reflections of the sound produced by the needle playing the record,
or acoustic feedback from the speakers to the record?

The first I don’t believe one moment. And there would be many other things involved having greater effect anyways,
like:
– Do you wear your glasses or not when listening.
– Do you drink red or white.

The latter I can vote for. We ran a quite powerful mobile discoteque many years ago.
At high playing levels the record could take up enough energy from the moving air to jump the needle.
Definitely perceptible.
Closed the lid when playing – problem solved.

The warming up of old rubber suspensions (MMC20CL in particular, in my opinion) also provides a very much perceptible difference – to the better, if you ask me.

Martin

[Dillen]

Bad or lose connector for the keyboard?
Cracked solder joints?

Martin

[Dillen]

33uF or 47uF is not important. The important parameter is the capacitors filtering properties.

The capability of playing CD-Rs lies mainly in the focus travel and the focus setting (don’t mess with this unless you know exactly what you are doing!).
CD-R is not a standard format. Even if most CD-players will play them, don’t expect them all to do it.
A normal factory CD has the info-layer sandwiched between two layers of polyester.
A CD-R has the info layer on top of the disc. This puts the info further away from the laser lens, and the laser needs
to be able to focus on this longer distance to read the disc. Not all lasers can do that (or were manufactured with this in mind).

The kit from Danish Sound Parts has all caps for the servo board.

Martin

[Dillen]

The noise could also come from the amplifier.
Which amplifier are you using?

Martin

[Dillen]

If would be helpful, if you would state the location.
Country as a minimum. And also your idea of the price.

Martin

[Dillen]

Have you tried using a different pickup cartridge?

Martin

[Dillen]

It could be helpful if you’d let us know where the items are located (country as a minimum),
and also if you have an idea of the price.

Martin

[Dillen]

Which amplifier are you using? And how are they connected?

Does the needle track the record?
Can you hear sound from the pickup cartridge itself when playing a record, if you put your ear close to it?

Martin

[Dillen]

The relay is pulled when in standby. This can be confusing.
If it does not release when ordered, the amplifier will not be powered.
Check the relay driver circuit. A shorted transistor here would not be a first.
If you already suspect D2, that would also be a good place to start.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check the start switch. These switches are known to oxidize and lose contact, particularly if not used for a long time.
Check for cracked solder joints where connectors are soldered to the circuit board.
All OK? Check voltage on motor leads.

Martin

[Dillen]

Record on the platter?

Martin

[Dillen]

You can calculate the voltage drop across the emitter resistor and use that as the target setting.
Ohms law.

Martin

[Dillen]

As mentioned above, parts are usually no problem.
What is needed here is a good repairshop or a skilled DIY/hobby-repairer.
There must be some in northern Italy.

Martin

[Dillen]

No. The start-up sequence is all mechanical.

Martin

[Author]

Posts