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Yes you have guessed correctly. It did work, and now I’ll tell you why I did it. I now have full remote control of my Beogram turntable, on an Masterlink-era system!
I bought a Beomaster 7000 from eBay, and connected my Beogram 4500 to its Phono input. I then used a DIN-to-RCA cable to connect the Line In/Out of the BM7000 to the A.Aux input of my Beosound 4.
I set the Beolink Converter up in the way mentioned above. This means that when I select Phono/N.Music as a source on my remotes, the BLC’s IR Mapping function causes A.Aux to be selected as the source, but the BM7000 also responds to the same remote command, and selects Phono as it’s source.
This means that I can now start Phono, and control it, with my remotes! If you’ve seen some of my older posts you’ll know I’ve been trying to find a way to achieve this for about 3 years!
I also connected a Chromecast Audio to the TV/Aux input of the BM7000, so that if I do select A.Aux by remote, both the BS4 and the BM7000 go to A.Aux as a source and I can cast music from my phone or tablet. The BM7000 has therefore also allowed me to add an extra source too.
My Beomaster 5 remains connected (set as an audio slave) and it does not seem to have been adversely affected – it still responds to the N.Music command from my remotes.
The only one puzzling thing is that it doesn’t work with my Beoremote One. It works if I click Phono/N.Radio on my Beo4, Beo6, or Beolink 1000 remotes, but not my Beoremote One (which is set to use Beo4 commands). I added N.Radio as a source available via the Music button, but when I click it, my BS4 goes to N.Radio, rather than A.Aux, and the BM7000 doesn’t respond at all. I’m guessing that means that the N.Radio signal from a Beoremote One is different somehow?
Location: Liverpool
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Disregard – I solved it, but I don’t know how. I disconnected everything, reconnected everything, changed a few settings, and I’m pretty sure I ended up with the same as I started with, but now it’s working! Maybe I just had a loose connection somwhwre.
Location: Liverpool
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Update – I realised I can see the error in the system log, but I don’t understand it – it seems to be saying that an ML Audiomaster is not found, but my Beosound 4 is connected and working.
Sep 14 14:03:31 (none) BLC[1146]: [info]:Source selection for ML player A.AUX received with error: Player select error, ML Audiomaster doesn’t exist
Sep 14 14:03:35 (none) BLC[1146]: [info]:IR data: [18] 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 76 19 5d
Sep 14 14:03:35 (none) BLC[1146]: [info]:Player control ignored. No player connected to renderer = Audio renderer
Sep 14 14:03:36 (none) BLC[1146]: [info]:IR data: [18] 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 76 1a d2Location: Liverpool
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Thaks Bill, yes that was it. I also discovered that if you press GO TO, you can then hold down << or >> to manually search through stations, if you don’t know the frequency.
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I downloaded the file from this thread before the file was deleted. I’m no expert in file sharing but I found this one called TransferNow and I think it works. I’m pretty sure the zipped folder you can download from this link will give you everything you need (it worked for me, anyway).
The link is valid for 7 days: https://www.transfernow.net/dl/20250912XYoEXA2c
Location: Liverpool
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I think you’re right – I just took a look at the reel and the spring-loaded part did appear to lock in the down position, if pushed down. The rewind reel doesn’t do this.
The description of the fault given on Danish Sound Parts also seems to match the problem I am having. I have some other parts I need to order from Danish Sound Parts anyway, so I might as well order it and try it.
Hopefully, disassembling and replacing it won’t be too difficult!
Thanks for the excellent advice, as always.
Location: Liverpool
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I didn’t find that, but as it turned out I didn’t have to – when I replaced the T2A fuse, I got power back! It’s been working since. I’m about to go on holiday but when I’m back, I’ll replace the belts in the Beocord, then my Beosystem 6500 will be in full working order.
Thanks for the answer anyway – you never know, I may need it some day.
Location: Liverpool
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I bought a Beoremote One (the IR version), and I have to say, I quite like it so far. It took me a while to figure out how to program it for all of my Masterlink-era products, but it’s working well. I have added my sources, programmed the ‘My Buttons’, and I like that unlike the Beo4, the display lights up and can be seen in the dark.
I will use it in my game/cinema room where it is often dark and that’s why I like my Beo6, but it’s nice to have a more traditional baton-shaped remote too. I don’t think I’ll have the same issues that Severed Hand had as I will use it mostly for a small number of key tasks – selecting a source, changing volume, skipping tracks, standby. All of that can be done in the dark I think without much hardship.
I now have 3 Beolink 1000, 3 Beo4, 2 Beo5, 2 Beo6, 1 MCP6500 and now a Beoremote One – I just had to complete the set!
Location: Liverpool
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Have you tried plugging your CX50s into the Speakers 2 outputs instead of Speakers 1? Let us know if they work that way.
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They do still work (I used to have one until only last year), but they are limited. I used it to play digital music from my PC, but have got a Beosound 5 for that now, so no longer needed it. You could probably get about 50 Euro for it if you sell it.
It will play music from your PC just fine, and it can be connected into a Masterlink network – that’s how I used mine. This post Beoport/Beoplayer – BeoWorld Forum was very useful to me when I was setting mine up.
The application, which docks to the right of your PC screen and floats out when you hover over it (if using PC – haven’t seen it on a Mac), is very nice and very useful, despite its old age.
Location: Liverpool
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Strange – the MCP6500 will control basic functions on my Beocenter 9500 (but without 2-way communication), but not on my Beomaster 4500. My Beomaster 4500 is SW2.2 so it should support 2-way remotes, but I get nothing when trying to control it with the MCP6500.
The 4500 is still responding fine to my Beolink 1000, Beo4 and Beo6 remotes. I’m assuming there’s some different software/compatibility issue in play then, or maybe my 4500 has a fault that I’m not aware of.
It’s not my intention to use the MCP6500 with either my 9500 or 4500 systems, I was just curious really.
Also thanks for the advice on the Beolink 5000’s Rolf, but I didn’t keep hold of either of my faulty ones, as I believed they were not repairable.
I’ve seen working BL5000s for sale for about £350 on eBay, but that seems a lot to spend just to satisfy my curiosity.
Location: Liverpool
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Yes my 6500 is also a recent acquisition, picked ot up yesterday in fact! It was a good price because the Beomaster is not working. I think the MCP is working but I can’t check it with the Beomaster not working at all. I will try it with my Beomaster 4500 and Beocenter 9500 when I get home later, see if anything works.
Location: Liverpool
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Thank you. I haven’t decided which of my systems to keep, but I may keep the 4500 and if I do, it would be nice to wall mount it.
I went a bit nuts on eBay over the last couple of years and now have a full system of each – 4500, 8500, 6500, 9500, plus BS4, BS5, BS Moment, BS9000 (sadly beyond repair), 8 pairs of speakers and a load of converters and so on. I would love to keep it all but I live in a 2 bed bungalow! Some of it will have to go, sadly.
Location: Liverpool
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I used a strong double-sided tape made by 3M. It’s about 1/2mm thick however, so the glass panel won’t sit quite as flush as it did before. Be sure to remove all the old glue first. Removing it from the back of the glass panel is difficult as if you’re not careful, you can take the paint off the back off the glass too. You have to be very patient. I did actually take a couple of mm of the paint off mine by mistake, but was able to touch it up with black model paint, and the repair is invisible.
I had also tried some thinner tape first so the glass would sit flush, but it wasn’t strong enough. This one seems to be good and strong:
PS – Great to see it on the wall – I would love to wall-mount mine, but you can’t buy those wall mounts anywhere!
Location: Liverpool
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I’ve had this problem with two Beo6s. As Matador says, I don’t think it’s a very common issue, but not unknown. I’ve seen replacement screens come up on eBay every now and again, but you can buy a whole working Beo6 for less.
I stripped them both down and checked al the connections inside, but I couldn’t fix them. I think the screen itself is faulty and beyond repair.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah well, that’s what I thought to be honest, but it was worth asking.
One of the BL5000s I’ve had in the past didn’t work at all, the other worked but only one-way communication, and it did also have a lot of dead pixels. I did send that one off to see if it could be repaired, but I was told the parts weren’t available and that the PCB was too damaged.
Two BL7000s came up on eBay recently (from the same seller), they both went for about £500 each. I just think that’s a bit pricey, but maybe I’ll give in one day soon. I have never been able to enjoy 2-way control with my 9500 or 4500 systems, and I’d just like to see how it works.
Location: Liverpool
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Yes my Beo4 is the joystick version and it works great with the Beosystem 3. My Beosound 4 also supports the joystick control. What I like about the Beoremote One is the ability to rename the sources that show in the display, so I can have ‘Google TV’ instead of ‘DTV2’ and ‘Switch’ instead of ‘DVD2’, and so on.
Also, I think I’ve now mastered the art of replacing a battery in the Beo6 and have restored a few, and kept 2 for myself. I have had some with a dead touchscreen though – I believe that’s a reasonably common issue.
I like the Beo6 because I can reprogram it myself, and in fact I often do.
Location: Liverpool
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My Beosound 9000 (Mk1) suffered a power supply failure, and unfortunately that also fried a lot of the other internals. I had a few items off for repair and service recently and that was included, but they told me it could not be repaired – too much damage internally. It’s a shame as it’s cosmetically in excellent condition.
I’m on the lookout for another, but they do go for a high price, especially if you want one that has been professionally serviced. I also want to make sure I get a Mk3 next time.
If anyone (in the UK) is thinking of selling one, let me know!
Location: Liverpool
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All very interesting, thanks. They do go on eBay for a bit less than £200, which is half the price of a new one.
I’ll think about it then. Curiosity will probably get the better of me and I’ll buy one when one comes up on eBay in the right kind of condition. If I don’t find I’m using it, I’ll just sell it.
And yes, I still have two Beolink 1000, which I use for me older music systems (Beosystem 9500 and 4500). The best design.
Location: Liverpool
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Excellent – it’s working!
First I tried the Beosound 4 in Opt.1 and the Beosound 5 set so it was not the Audio Master, and I connected a pair of my Beolabs direct to the Beosound 4. That worked fine.
I then connected the Beosystem 3 into the same ML network via a junction box, changed the Beosound 4 to Opt.0, and the Beosystem 3 remained in Opt.2. It all works fine, and I’m also impressed with the fact that my Beosound 4 display show the metadata for the digital music that is playing.
I’ve also figured out how to get 2-way communication between the Beosound 5 and my Beo6 remote. It only worked briefly before it ran the battery down, but it worked!
So, I cannot use the Beosound 5 for Spotify as that only works if it is an Audio Master, but that’s fine – I can live without that. I wouldn’t mind getting N.Radio working but I have still not figured out how to get the BS5 connected online, even though it is successfully connected into my home network (wired). I’ll figure it out eventually though.
As ever, thanks for all the invaluable help, Madskp.
Location: Liverpool
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