[beosince]

Ich würde mir das Beolink-Handbook herunterladen und einmal ansehen, da stehen gute Tipps drin. Ich würde heutzutage nur noch die neuesten geschirmten Netzwerkkabel verlegen, da darüber auch klassisches Chinch laufen kann. PoE ist sicherlich die Zukunft, da es für viele Dinge eingesetzt werden kann. Man kann sich auch mal mit Steve von Soundsheavenly in Verbindung setzen. Der hilft gerne.

[beosince]

A few years ago, I spotted a Beogram 4000 with a clear lid on social media. I’ve never been able to find that photo again, but the idea stuck with me. I always felt the original smoked acrylic ‘hid’ the beautiful mechanical design, so I decided to fabricate a clear dust cover for mine. While I know this deviates from the original Jacob Jensen design, I feel it’s an improvement (and I can obviously always go back if I change my mind). It reminds me of the final edition Beosound 9000 – I’ve always preferred that clear glass look over the standard smoked version.

[beosince]

I have missed this thread, keep the pictures coming!

[beosince]

I cleaned the volume slider on my Beomaster 4400 as it worked not only as a volume slider, but also controlled the balance. Quite difficult to get to and open up, but works like a charm again.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by beosince.

[beosince]

I have fixed it! I looked at some older BeoWorld posts and found this thread (https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/18389/188905.aspx) about a Beogram 4002 with similar intermittent symptoms. I exchanged 0TR4 and the Beogram has not shown the error since. Whilst I was at it, I also ordered the Main Capacitor Array with Integrated Efficient 24V Power Supply from Beolover and some new belts and did some further maintenance, and the Beogram has been running lovely since. Thank you for your help guys 🙂

[beosince]

hcraig244 wrote:

When you say it only happens in the first 1/3 of the record does it always happen at the same point each time it occurs?

No, it happens sporadically. I feel more so towards the very beginning of the record, and not often after that.

[beosince]

Mark-sf wrote:

If that is the case then there must be in inner point in the record where that stops occurring. Is this the case or is it simply having to cue it down a second time that allows it to continue to play? Why this is critical is that there may be something that is causing the solenoid’s arm to withdraw. The circuit switches to a lower current setting to hold it extended which makes it susceptible to being bumped to release. As such I would try it with the outer platter removed and starting it. If it stays down, then you can very gently tap the cartridge inwards to see if it moves without raising until the end.

I feel like it looses voltage for a millisecond which causes the needle to jump up. I dont have to cue it down again, it just jumps very shortly. I have tried to manually replicate this by trying to lift the arm at the mechanism, but the magnetic field is strong enough to keep the arm down.

[beosince]

No, it happens also when I cue the record manually.

[beosince]

I have done most of the things mentioned in the blog post today (cleaned all contacts, cleaned and lubed everything appropriately, re-aligned everything). However, the symptoms persist…. any ideas? It only happens at the beginning of the vinyl. If I press the up button before the needle drops for the first time and start the record further to the centre it does not happen.

[beosince]

Here is a link to view the video as well: https://vimeo.com/1137451595?share=copy&fl=sv&fe=ci

[beosince]

I have taken a video of it happening. It only seems to happen in the first 1/3 of the vinyl, mainly in the first two songs, never later.

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[beosince]

Hat das Upgrade einen großen Klanglichen unterschied gemacht?

[beosince]

i do agree that the original cable probably has better shielding between the two signal cables. The new cable has quite thick plastic shielding on the signal cables though, so I hope the transfer is neglectable.
Can you recommend a cable that is readily available that is better suited for the job?
I need to re-paint part of a Beogram 4000, do you have a recommendation when it comes to the black color used?

as always thanks for your valuable input!

[beosince]

One of the simpler projects: Updating the Beogram audio cable.

The audio cable on my Beogram 4000 had been shortened and, after checking the pinout, had actually been done wrong as the both shielding were connected to the same pin.

I bought Sommer Cable Galileo 238 Plus BK (2 meters) and a new DIN plug from Ryan (only gold was in stock, but I will not see it anyway).

Stripping the wire:

Sorting out the shielding:

Soldering on the plug:

The result:

I also do the same to the power plugs as cable has usually yellowed and I feel its nicer it both cables match. Obviously this does not change anything with regards to audio quality, but it allows the extension of the cable and is a nice visual update.

 

[beosince]

In one of my setups I have a Beovision 7 with Beolab 7.4, four Beolab 3 and a Beolab 2 as sub (so 5.1). I really like this setup for watching movies and casual music listening. Also it is quite a minimalist setup. I think one of the most important, and also quite cheap things, is speaker placement and setup in the room. Get a thick carpet and try to reduce reflections in your room.

[beosince]

Does anyone have experience with repairing Beolab 3 or can recommend someone?

 

[beosince]

I have one MK1 Beolab 3 which does not show any light when plugged in and it does not work. The other one (MK2) worked for quite some time and shower an orange light from time to time, which went away when unplugged for a few minutes. However, not the light is constantly orange and the beolab does not work.

[beosince]

I am located in Germany, close to Munich. I would obviously be willing to ship them out for repair, even just the PCBs.

[beosince]

I walked past this today and it reminded me of a certain product. I do love the design of the theatre!

[beosince]

I think the Beosound Theatre is a great product from the spec sheet. I love that they included some of the B&O magic with the moving wall bracket and foot. I think the PUC control was reduced due to the abundance of HDMI-CEC, which works great.

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