[beojeff]

I do think that B&O is going a little overboard in hyping it as a solution for a home theater. It’s certainly no Beosound Theatre. Still, the added HDMI connectivity is a nice feature for the slight price increase. For me, I could see it as a solution for a non-B&O small tv that I have in the kitchen. I currently have it connected to a Beosystem 3 for connection to 2 Beolab 4000 speakers and an Apple TV. That’s then connected to an NL/ML converter to integrate with the rest of my B&O. This small box could replace all of that and allow control via CEC of an Apple TV connected directly to the non-B&O tv. It has its place for a simple setup solution.

[beojeff]

What have they done?! With the new update, I have to crank the volume up over 75 to be able to hear any dialogue. Also, the Theatre now randomly power cycles at least once an hour. Sometimes even more frequently!

[beojeff]

Yes. You can set an NL device to be recognized as a TV (even if it isn’t) to integrate the Moment to use that NL device’s speakers. For example, I have a Moment in my kitchen integrated with the Beosound 2 that’s in the kitchen. You do this in the Moment’s settings to use a “TV’s” speakers. Then, select that device in the drop down list.

[beojeff]

Neither the Beosystem 3 nor the Beosystem 4 support CEC. There IS a solution to control the LG TV, but it woudn’t be inexpensive. The Beoliving Intelligence has a driver to control LG smart TVs over your home network.With the BLI you could create macros to control the tv as well as assigning LIGHT and CONTROL functions on the Beo4 or Beoremote One to send many commands to the LG TV.

[beojeff]

My third BeoSound Moment arrived today. I was able to integrate it with the BeoSound 2 in my kitchen — with the Moment thinking that the BeoSound 2 is a TV. The Moment controls the BS2 perfectly.

[beojeff]

I’ve pulled the trigger and now have a 3rd Moment on the way. I know there are a lot of Moment-haters, but I happen to like using it as a stationary device to search Deezer for music.

[beojeff]

I’m interested in hearing how the Beolab 8 speakers perform as height speakers in a Dolby Atmos setup.

[beojeff]

I’m glad to see that B&O is listening to feedback. There really needs to be the full TV remote menu in the app for the Beosound Theatre. Sometimes the Theatre loses connection with the Beoremote One. In such instances we need some way to control navigation on the tv.

[beojeff]

The AV 7000 was my first B&O surround processor. That brings back such nice memories! It really is a beautiful, minimal box that matches the 7000 system.

I’m curious how you’re handling the video with a modern setup. Back when it came out, it had the odd complication that it needed a video input to be able to detect if the video source was playing. Since most TVs back then didn’t have a video output, it became necessary to be creative with some video splitting to create a feedback loop. I guess that video output is more common on modern TVs now.

Also, the video was WAY overprocessed through the AV 7000. The colors were super-saturated. Thus, you never really wanted to use the video output.

The PUC  control as the time was nice, but very limited. Something nice about the Apple TV is that you can have it learn other IR codes — therefore, you could probably get the Apple TV to be controlled by the AV7000, but then you have the issue of extracting the audio from the HDMI.

I, too, used Beovox 4500 with my AV 7000 as rear speakers. I used 6000s as fronts. As I recall, I used a 4000 as center channel. I used a third-party sub — which was easy since the AV 7000 was designed to support a third party sub. You might be tempted to go with a B&O Cona to keep it all B&O — but don’t bother. The Cona is too weak to serve as a proper subwoofer. I think any  variant of the BL7 would serve as a great center channel.

[beojeff]

I’ve found that usually switching the product controlled by the Beoremote One and then switching it back to the Theatre will re-establish the connection.

I’ve also found that replacing the batteries of the Beoremote One restores a stronger connection.

[beojeff]

I wonder if the recent update to improve battery life has come at the expense of reliability of connection between the Theatre and Beoremote One.

[beojeff]

I received another update this week (beta). Since then, I’ve been having issues with my Beoremote One losing connection with the Theatre. Changing the product on the Beoremote one and then changing it back to the Theatre as the product re-establishes the connection.

[beojeff]

I was really hoping B&O would find a solution for indicating speaker models connected to Receiver 1 units, but they still have not. This latest update has just made the Theatre use worse. I’m thinking I should get out of the beta program.

[beojeff]

I’ve been experiencing the issue with my Theatre rebooting since the software update. I’m glad to see this isn’t just me. WTF, B&O?! We paid far too much for this product to be experiencing this.

[beojeff]

Also, I see that there is still no way to edit the existing Receiver 1 wireless speakers to indicate which model of Beolab is attached so that Room Sense can perform correctly. However, I haven’t tried this with adding a new Receiver 1.

[beojeff]

With today’s update, my custom lists for LIGHT and CONTROL on the Beoremote One now appear. However, selecting macros from that list has no effect on the BLI. Has anyone gotten the LIGHT and CONTROL commands to forward to the BLI?

[beojeff]

Remember that I mentioned earlier that you need to correct the IP address of the Hue bridge in the system settings of the BLI for Hue. The BLI settings will probably prompt you to push the button on the Hue bridge to re-establish the connection.

[beojeff]

Note that you CAN keep the Hue bridge using DHCP. However, you will just need to go into the system settings on the BLI to change the Hue address whenever it gets changed. The same is true for Wemo devices. It’s just easier to give them fixed IP addresses so you don’t have to make those changes repeatedly.

[beojeff]

It’s the Hue bridge that’s needing the fixed IP address here — not so much the BLI. I use the free Fing app to find IP addresses on my network.

[beojeff]

Have you left the Hue with DHCP on or did you change it to a static IP address? Without a static IP address, the address can change and break the connection with the BLI. You just need to find the new IP address and correct that in the Hue system setting of the BLI.

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