[AdamS]

Wonderful – I’ll have a look at that later!

Mind you I’m still sulking that my B&O room from last year was so comprehensively out-done! 😉

(and I still want to know where I can buy a B&O rug!)

[AdamS]

As above, dismantle the switch and clean both the PCB contact and the underside of the tactile dome as they can give problems.

I had a Beogram 5000 come my way a few years back where so much dust and muck had got under the switch dome, when you pressed Play, the deck would start but then immediately stop again, then re-start itself and keep doing this over and over again until I pulled the plug!

[AdamS]

Yes, sadly your tweeters have had it – bad luck!

A low resistance reading suggests that the coil has probably overheated and individual turns of the coil wires have melted together (which would also cause the rattling you’re hearing), so they won’t be salvageable, sadly.

[AdamS]

My experience with those supposedly “correct” replacement tweeter diaphragms has been very poor. They are usually poor quality and the last ones I bought had the wrong diameter voice coil and had the lead-out wires in completely the wrong place for the dome they were supposed to be replacing.

To cap it all, when I returned them for a refund, they allegedly “got lost” in the post.

I would buy a complete correct replacement tweeter. The S75s are very good so definitely worth it.

[AdamS]

Peter wrote:

I had my MS150s repaired some years ago by Richard Allen speakers – they serviced them but were so impressed with their sound that they tested them properly and presented me with the frequency chart saying they had some of the flattest frequency responses they had come across in a pair of speakers and were very impressed. I actually sold them as this series of speakers had tweeters that seemed to shriek to me at higher volumes – I preferred the older M100.2s which I still have though I doubt they actually perform as well. I also prefer the finish of the earlier speakers – B&O seemed to be using slightly poorer materials though the electronics performed probably better. I seem to remember these Yamaha speakers were very bright and needed very good sources or could be shrill. But excellent speakers they seem to be in need of a slight polish though 😀

I know, Peter, I know, I’m working on it! Sadly both tweeters are dead and beyond repair, so I need to source a set from Japan before work can continue. And, of course, in the meantime, I’ve bought another pair of speakers that need some work…

Interestingly, I know the NS-1000Ms have a reputation as being ‘bright’, but i f you look at their frequency response, there is a bit of a lift in level at the 15-16kHz region, but they actually tail off above this, and are around 3dB down from nominal at 20kHz.

As to NS-1000M versus MS150.2, I know where my money will still go…

[AdamS]

I have only ever heard one pair of loudspeakers that, to my ears, were better than Beolab 90s. However there are three main issues that prevent me from having them:

(1) They were £215,000 per pair around 14 years ago

(2) Each speaker consists of four towers of drive units, with the largest being around 2m tall.

(3) They were a proof of concept of what the company could do and so they only ever made one pair!!!! I suspect this single pair no longer exists either, which makes me very sad.

For anyone interested, they were the ADAM Audio OSS (Olympus Sound System). I heard them at the Munich High End show one year and just sat in front of them for over an hour, absolutely slack-jawed in amazement. They were truly incredible – I still cannot explain how speakers so huge could completely ‘disappear’ in sonic terms.

Some details here: https://www.soundandvision.com/content/adam-audio-olympus-sound-system

Amusingly, they used B&O ICEpower amplifiers!

[AdamS]

You’ve got the first component in a Beosystem 5500 – a logical next step would be to buy the rest of it!

[AdamS]

I’ve been inside my Beovox MS150.2s in the last day or two.

A few years back, one of the midrange domes started distorting and, on taking it apart, it turned out that the voice coil had become partially detached from the former and was rattling around in the gap. Odd, but a replacement driver from Beoparts fixed it.

Then, about six months ago, I realised the other speaker was making similar noises. I took it apart on Monday and, yes, you’ve guessed it:

Well, another replacement unit is on its way to me, but I was initially taking this personally and wondering what the universe has against my MS150.2s in particular! However, lying in bed last night I had a sudden realisation. When I took the speakers apart to replace the first failed midrange, I noticed that in the past, someone had obviously re-capped the speakers and done a pretty shoddy job of it. Consequently, when I was ordering a Beoparts capacitor kit for some other B&O speakers, I ordered a kit for these and fitted it last year.

During this process, I found that whoever had done the crap job had fitted a 33uF capacitor where there should have been a 3.3uF in the same place in both crossovers. Checking the circuit today, it turns out that this capacitor is in the high pass section of that very unit, so it would have dropped the crossover frequency drastically, and sent bass frequencies to the dome. No wonder the flippin’ coils keep cooking themselves and falling off!

Hopefully, it’s not a fix I’ll have to repeat again.

Meanwhile the next loudspeaker job awaits, but this isn’t a B&O one – sorry!

[AdamS]

And the picture they’ve used in their ‘Contact Us’ section is a picture of Heinz Klaus of German loudspeaker manufacturer HEDD Audio!

How on earth do they get away with this?

 

[AdamS]

Those are the standard mains suppression capacitors that have been fitted to most electronics since the 1970s. They can fail and, when they do there’s usually a bang and some smoke, but I would have though this TV was far too young for that.

I wonder if this is tied in with a visit we had a year or two back to change out a board on our Beovision Eclipse TV as a “preventative maintenance precaution” due to a potential failure issue that had been identified? As I’m in the UK, our lovely new forum owners, Multicare, contacted us directly and came and did the job for free, but I wasn’t home that day so didn’t find out exactly what it was they changed.

As the TV is fairly recent, I would say that your best port of call initially would be a B&O dealer if you have one nearby.

 

[AdamS]

Madskp wrote:

AdamS wrote:

Sorry to bring this one up again but how do we write text below quoted replies on the new Multicare Forum? I was familiar with the ‘Text’ tab on the previous forum but that doesn’t seem to be there now.

What I do when I have quoted something like here is to press enter, an then the Quote sign to left allign the text after the Quote. I think it also was that way it worked before.

Aha – got it. Thanks!!

[AdamS]

Sorry to bring this one up again but how do we write text below quoted replies on the new Multicare Forum?

I was familiar with the ‘Text’ tab on the previous forum but that doesn’t seem to be there now.

[AdamS]

Multicare wrote:

AdamS wrote:

Beocord 1200 Deluxe and Beocord 2400

Hi, I have added the information that we currently have. I hope it is useful.

It is indeed – many thanks!
It turns out I actually meant Beocord 2000 Deluxe and not 1200, but another member somehow knew this has sent me the necessary manuals!

[AdamS]

No worries – I’m relieved to know I’m not the only one!

[AdamS]

Thanks for the updates, everyone, and I can completely understand that transferring all the manuals over will be a herculean task – just wanted to make sure it wasn’t me being daft!

The manuals I was after are for the Beocord 1200 Deluxe and Beocord 2400 reel to reel machines but there’s really no panic. Given how long my ‘to-do’ list is I think I should get round to them in August 2025 or thereabouts…

[AdamS]

I will also need to see it in the flesh. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been a bit sniffy about a new B&O product’s picture, only to completely fall in love with it when I see the real thing!

[AdamS]

Surely the whole point of the Beolab 90s (and, I assume, 50s) is that you don’t need to worry about where you put them!

My 90s are plonked in the corners of my lounge, where they look nice, but where my old passive speakers would cause a noticeable room boom. I have run the EQ from my listening seat and they sound sublime.

[AdamS]

Good to be back up and running! Forum looks smart, too.

[AdamS]

The Line In/Line out connector is to separate the preamplifier and power amplifier sections of the unit and is not suitable for plugging anything external in. As you have found, if you remove the linking plug, you don’t get any sound from the speakers.

I can’t comment on where the 36mV figure in the service manual came from but it sounds like a misprint! the Tape 2 and AUX connections are normal line level inputs and so this is where you should be connecting your streamer.

[AdamS]

Yep, you got me too!!

[Author]

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