[AdamS]

As above, it should be absolutely fine. Just be careful with any unduly heavy 7″ records on any Beogram that uses weight for size sensing – you don’t want them thinking they’re a 12″ and dropping the stylus accordingly.

Ask me how I know – fortunately I caught the arm in time!

[AdamS]

The Beogram 4000/4002/4004/6000 models are completely different and are some of the best turntables B&O made, in my personal opinion. The same goes for the Beogram 8000/8002 models, although they are ruined somewhat by being largely held together with double-sided sticky tape.

I really want to like the TX2/5005/5500/6500/7000 etc. linear tracking models – they look great, are lovely to use and they’re easy to service (which isn’t exactly a common thing for B&O…) but I’ve just always found them to sound quite disappointing.

For what it’s worth, it’s an opinion that a certain Mr. Jarman also shares!

 

[AdamS]

That’s pretty much normal. You’ve now joined the select club that has discovered first-hand that the last radial tracking Beograms sound much better than their linear tracking brothers.

Don’t tell everyone, though, otherwise the price of the radial trackers will shoot up! 😉

[AdamS]

Repair

[AdamS]

The most likely cause is that the tracking sensor bulb has blown.

Replacement here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/lamp-for-tracking-photo-sensor-for-beogram-3000-3300-3500-4500-5500-6500-7000-9500-etc/

[AdamS]

I’ve had this issue with Beolab 8000s and it usually means you’re using the wrong type of Powerlink cable that doesn’t have the right shielding.

Steve at Sounds Heavenly will be able to advise and sort you out with the right cables.

[AdamS]

As someone who has always hated the Beolab 2, I would say that a change to a Beolab 19 would be a huge upgrade!

When it came to music, the Beolab 19 impressed me with its well-balanced, tight and tuneful bass on the couple of occasions I have heard it. The Beolab 2 just seems to boom randomly along about half a second behind the rest of the frequency range.

[AdamS]

It seems I’m too late and you have a solution, but the Beomaster 6500 should not have any problem driving your ALR speakers.

It sounds like the output stage bias settings may have drifted off and need checking and re-setting.

[AdamS]

That’s the sort of thing, yes, but I’m missing the whole section from the centre of the top of the grille, across to the left, the short bit to the front and then down the side to the middle in the bottom. I’ll post a picture tonight if i remember.

[AdamS]

The 2000 series radial tracking decks have always sounded better then the linear tracking 3000 types, so it’s no contest for me!

[AdamS]

I must admit I’m struggling with this one.

Beogram 4000 (or 4002, actually…) – absolute classic and a design icon known by anyone interested in audio worldwide

BeoSound 9000 – one of the most instantly recognisable bits of B&O kit and another design icon in its own right

I get the re-creation of both of these, but Beogram 3000? Really? It’s a middle of the range and unremarkable turntable from the last generation of B&O decks and the chief selling point I can see for picking it as a candidate is that there are plenty kicking around and suspect very few people will be bothered about a hundred vanishing off the market!

I’ve no doubt that the system will sound great and it looks lovely, but this is straying dangerously close to the UK comedian Harry Enfield’s “I Saw You Coming” shop sketches, for my liking.

Come on B&O – how about something NEW for your centenary?!

[AdamS]

I have a personal theory that is completely and utterly unsubstantiated by anyone, but here goes:

– Beolab 90s are currently £141,000 in the UK

– The next model down in the range are the Beolab 50s, which are £52,000

That’s quite a big gap.

Just saying…. 😉

[AdamS]

No.

Just……………..NO!

[AdamS]

What makes you think they need re-capping?

I’ve owned dozens of B&O cassette decks over 30 years or so, and not one of them has required re-capping.

[AdamS]

Well, I take it back. Not seen one of those before!

[AdamS]

This deck would have an MMC1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 in it – are you sure some of the writing hasn’t rubbed off?!

Alternatively, can you post a picture?

[AdamS]

Excellent news – enjoy!

[AdamS]

I didn’t actually need to do mine as the foam was fine – as above, it was the crossover damaging them!

As to the capacitors, I have absolutely no doubt that the capacitors in the Danish Sound Parts kit will be correct – my question was whether they were right before this? Like I said, someone had been at mine before I owned them, and one of the capacitors in each crossover was wrong – I only found this out when I fitted the new capacitor kit.

[AdamS]

If you’re lucky, it may just be the foam behind the driver. There’s a sheet of foam that is pressed by the plastic cover behind the midrange and tweeter to provide pressure form the rear to hold it in place. This foam can age and deteriorate, so the midrange isn’t being held in firmly, and can rattle. Change the foam or add a bit more in, and this may well fix it.

If you’re unlucky, it may be the same problem i had with both my MS150 midranges, where some idiot re-capped the crossovers in the past and put the wrong capacitor values in the midrange circuit, allowing too much low frequency to get to the driver, and eventually causing the voice coils to overheat and fall off the formers. When you re-capped, were all the new capacitors the same value as the ones you took out?

[AdamS]

Beocenter 9500 every time.

Beocentral explains it, and isn’t very complimentary about the 9300! – https://beocentral.com/beocenter9300

 

[Author]

Posts