[Ravsted]

Hi,

thanks for your reply.

In the meanwhile I consultet chatgpt and it seems like I wont get the proper shielding.

I took the DIN connector apart again and managed to crimp a short cobber lead to the RJ45 shield and solder it to PIN 7 as specified.

But thanks for your tip.

Ravsted.

[Ravsted]

You might loose true surround sound.

Not all TVs transcode to AC3 (Dolby Digital) over SP/DIF. If you e.g use a build-in TV App for Netflix it will stream E-AC3 (Dolby Digital Plus).

But DD+ is not compatible with SP/DIF.

Some TVs transcode to AC3/DD …. Some don’t. If it doesn’t you’ll only get e.g. stereo over SP/DIF and your BS3 with only provide Surround Sound as Dolby Pro Logic. And that is bad and would be a dealbraker for me.

You might think plan-b would be eARC  extractor … But the issue will be the same. I do not know of any eARC extractor which can transcode to AC3/DD.

[Ravsted]

Hi,

I made a cable for Beovision 11 and Beolab 3 today using the below diagram.

I did it slightly different, but it seems to work without any issues.

However, I would like to understand the consequences of the change I made.

 

DIN PIN 2 (signal ground) > RJ45 PIN 3 (signal ground) & RJ45 PIN 7 (signal ground)

DIN PIN 2 (signal ground) > DIN PIN 7 (data ground)

DIN PIN 3 (audio L) > RJ45 PIN 8

DIN PIN 5 (audio R) > RJ45 PIN 6

 

I did not solder the RJ45 shield to DIN PIN 7

Instead I shorted DIN PIN 2 and DIN PIN 7

Reason… simply because I could not solder the material/wire of the RJ45 cable. The solder would not stick.

 

Any feedback on this approach – explaining the consequences.

Thanks.

 

 

[Ravsted]

I can’t help you with the solution.

But for older products I often go to this website to find the service manuals.

I dont find any for MX7000 but there is one for 6000 and 8000. If I remember correctly the only difference between 6000 and 7000 were the more powerful speaker system in 7000.

Maybe the information there will help you to identify the root cause.

Good luck.

http://www.abo-center.dk/Abo_center_2/reptips/diagrammer/Beovision/BeoVisiondiaforside.html

[Ravsted]

I agree with Mads.

However, if you just want to test it, both the BC2 socket unit and the BV11 have SP/DIF input and output.

You can start playback on the BC2, then configure and select the corresponding input on the BV11. You can listen using P.MUTE.

It should work — though it’s not the most elegant solution.

[Ravsted]

Not sure… But seems like your ‘playing around’ in the service menu disabled both the TV and D(digital)TV tuner/function and if no sources for V.MEM or DVD is defined those buttons on the Beo4 remote won’t turn it on either. Add ‘camera’ to the LIST function of the Beo4 remote if it isn’t there already and press GO. I think that will turn on the TV and select the analogue RCA/Camera source.

[Ravsted]

Firestick > splitter > Beovision DVI und Beovision AV4 RCA / Cinch.

Und dann auch noch korrekt im Beovision / Connections Menü konfigurieren.

[Ravsted]

https://doc.oneremote.dk/Vejledninger/3500583_Beolink Converter 1611.pdf

• This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by Ravsted.

[Ravsted]

Beovision 7 > Masterlink Cable > Beolink Converter > 7 PIN DIN (fully wired) Datalink Cable >  Beosound AUX

Verbinde die Produkte, ohne sie an die Stromversorgung anzuschließen. Schließe dann den Strom an. Ich denke, die Reihenfolge, in der sie Strom erhalten, kann entscheidend dafür sein, ob sie sich korrekt verbinden. Wenn sich die Produkte im selben Raum befinden, musst du die richtige „Option“ wählen. Wenn der Fernseher über eine BeoLab 7 verfügt und die Musikanlage ebenfalls Lautsprecher angeschlossen hat, wähle bei beiden Produkten Option 1.

[Ravsted]

Hi,

my thinking was not to modify the stand at all.

I got a 10-40 hanging on the wall and a BV7-32 stand. I just placed them next to each other to illustrate how I would make the adapter plate.

I looks a bit like a ghost 🙂  – – but it is Halloween tomorrow – –  so…. 🙂

At the top you have 2 holes to bolt it to the original bracket. There is a small cut-out for the hinge.

Put 2 bolts into the TV and slide it into the two cuts/slots at top.

Fasten the bolts and add the additional 2 at the button.

The cut-out at the button ensures the ventilation isn’t blocked.

A small bracket (drawn in grey) determines the tilt as the TV will lean forward by default due to the modified ‘balance point’.

This will put the TV at the original heigh above the stand-base i.e. approx. 8-10 cm.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks ago by Ravsted.

[Ravsted]

Just an alternative option.

If you are a ‘handyman’ … it should be possible to convert a BV7-32 stand for the BV10-40.

Where I live there are many BV7 stands available and you get them more or less for free (<40£)

You can buy a DIN<>8 PIN micro-fit molex cable or solder one and make a plywood adapter plate yourself.

 

• This reply was modified 2 weeks ago by Ravsted. Reason: mini > micro

[Ravsted]

Hi Henri,

Interesting project.

I upgraded a non HDMI BV7 with a new(er) panel a while ago. You can read more about that here:

Beovision 7-32 upgraded to Full HD

With this approach it is not really a B&O TV anymore… Just a 3rd party television with a B&O speaker and controllable via B&O remote. But no integration or masterlink  capabilities remain.

How do you plan to modify the TV and does it relate to ‘timer’ ?

[Ravsted]

Alright.. so that means that this ‘part’ is just an empty ‘shell’ on the non-motorised version ?

 

[Ravsted]

I have tried to upload the config files… but it does not seem to work 🙄

[Ravsted]

Hi,

I can share that.

Download ‘volumio’ and burn the image to an SD card.

Boot up your pi. On the monitor connected to the pi, you can see what IP the pi got on your network.

Access the ‘volumio’ frontend via the  browser on your computer. Register a free account. From the web frontend you can now install the IR remote plugin. And in the ‘volumio’ settings you choose your audio output. I use minijack.

Connect the B&O IR Eye to PIN 2, 6 and 12.

Pin 2 is +5v

Pin 6 is ground

Pin 12 (called GPIO 18) is data

In the IR plugin on the ‘volumio’ web frontend select GPIO 18 and save.

All that is remaining is to create a folder with the name ‘Beo4’ in a specific folder on the pi. The web frontend defines where.

In that folder you place two custom files which tells the pi how to decode the signal from the B&O IR Eye and what to do when a specific button is pressed.

When the folder is created and the files are saved in the folder, Beo4 will appear in the remote control list. Select and save.

The files are called:

lircrc

lircd.conf

Now restart the plugin.  A bit of flair for Linux, ssh and command line is an advantage.

I will share my 2 config files. That will make it easier to get started and modify for your needs.

Hope this guide helps.

 

Link to GPIO overview:

https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/learn_tutorials/1/5/9/5/GPIO.png

 

[Ravsted]

This diagram  is from old forum.

Note: power supply is not 20v DC

It is -20v / +20v

You can translate the Dutch text if required.

 

[Ravsted]

I have heard one drilling a hole in the cover and added a low noise fan to efficiently cool the heatsink…

[Ravsted]

Und…. Hatte ganz kurz BL4…. Dass ist eine andere Welt. Kann man überhaubt nicht vergleichen.

Nie wieder BL4….. Egal im welchem Raum.

[Ravsted]

Ich habe BL4000 und BL3.

Ich finde die BL3 am besten.

BL3 ohne sub in 20 m2 … Und früher mit Cambridge Minx 201 sub (6 Zoll) in 50 m2.

In Dänemark kosten ein Paar rund 5000 – 6000 DKK abhängig von Zustand und Zubehör.

Also 700 EUR +/-

 

[Ravsted]

On a beo4 with joystick you can select ‘mode’.

There are 3 modes.

With your ‘mode’ setting pressing the ‘play’ button instead of the joystick should do the trick.

[Author]

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