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BRONZE MemberThe fact that the relay does activate even for a short time does not mean it’s broken but that it is losing its 6.5 volts. This will take some technical skill to fix and the service manual is online so it does not require a B&O service tech. How comfortable are you with using a multimeter and desoldering/soldering parts on a PC board?
What is broken about the relay? It’s a simple DPST relay that is activated by 6v and most like rated at 1A for contacts. You might check whether https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/relay-for-beomaster-5000-5500-6500-7000/ will work if it truly is bad.
17 March 2023 at 23:18 in reply to: 4 Ohms Speakers on Beomaster 4500 or Beocenter 9300 Roth Beolink-Active #43553Ninni, virtually all speakers that provide for two separate pairs of binding posts also include internal crossovers and jumpers and to bridge the two inputs to use a single pair of wires. True bi-amplified speakers without internal or included amps are predominantly a DIY offering.
10 March 2023 at 18:43 in reply to: 4 Ohms Speakers on Beomaster 4500 or Beocenter 9300 Roth Beolink-Active #43551I would not connect your speakers that way. Simply run one set of speaker wires and use the jumpers on your speaker terminals. You cannot bi-amp with a single amplifier. What you are proposing is ‘bi-wiring” and it’s not likely to benefit given the speaker switches and DIN connections.
You won’t be able to detect movement from midrange drivers. You should hear them by placing your earn close in front and using pink noise.
Martin is referring to capacitors, not relays which I believe are all 5000 mF and are C4, C17 and C18.
No, as the amp is rated at 25W into 4 ohms.
Actually, those caps are almost 50yrs old so they definitely are a recommended starting point! I would then check closely for the listed voltages on the transistors in the servo motor circuit as it could be a bad transistor, diode or simply a broken solder joint or trace.
As I responded to Colin, the control of 45 starts with the disc indicator switch. If that is not opening and closing properly you will get this symptom. Only after checking this should you check for the correct voltages around TR1 and 2. There are no likely cap issues in that circuit.
I would check that the Disc Indicator switch under the center 45 adapter is making good contact first. If it is opening and closing properly, then your problem is in the logic that it drives which is TR1 and Tr2. There are voltages in the service manual for these.
Since both the at rest position and set-down are skewed it sounds like the arm had been moved too far right and there is a threaded pin under the counter weight that secures the arm to its post if I remember. Never saw many of these but that was how the 3000 did it. You need to remove the dustcover and adjust it from the rear.
When you say “return and stop” do you mean if you press Stop during play it does not return or only at the end of the record? If the later that is typically a leaf switch problem as these easily corrode or get out of adjustment. Do either the “>” or “>>” work when the are is cued up? If they don’t then I would look at the electronics focusing on the caps first.
It is OIL1; however, that is not as important as its location which can’t be determined by the schematic since it is not board mounted. It is under a black plastic cover held by two brass screws directly to the right of the damping cylinder.
There is a bulb ? n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.
Someone might have put some double-sided tape to secure it. Try taking a piece of fishing line and work it toward the middle and around. The bottom also comes off to get at it from underneath.
I would check the switch associated with the disk in the center of the platter as that has a switch that tells the system a record is on the platter. If it is intermittent (dirty/misadjusted) you will get this behavior.
By slim do you mean less wide or less deep? If you want to preserve it as a B&O system, a pair of CX100’s are narrower and are quite stylish IMHO. Remember, this unit has a built-in loudness contour in the volume control (which you can’t bypass without getting inside) so should not be paired with speakers that are bass heavy.
The Lift Circuit (IC1/TR9 is supposed to trigger the brake (TR32) so I would start there. Since you have a second 8002 you have a unit to compare. As to the change in arm speed once it gets over the platter, I do not recall that it does this normally as there is no reason it needs to. I know it doesn’t slow down on the 4xxx Beograms.
Great find! Make sure you also order a servo belt.
It simply lifts off by getting your finger tips under the edge and lift up. The adapter stays in place.
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