[hcraig244]

While axial resistors and inductors share a similar axial lead style, they are distinct components. Resistors limit current flow, while inductors oppose changes in current and store energy in a magnetic field.

my first experience with B&O equipment stemmed from a friend purchasing a Beomaster 2000 amp way back in the early 70’s…..i fell in love with it even though, as a poorly paid instrument artificer apprentice,  it was way beyond my financial means. Roll the years on forty or so years and I also spotted a BM3000 on ebay for a ridiculously low price with a failed left channel…..how hard can a fix be I thought to myself? That was the beginning of a long and entertaining journey into vintage B&O equipment repair/restoration.

The BM3000 turned out to be a bit of a failure but I learned a lot during the experience, largely if not entirely  from the input of the member on this site…..lots of members posted in what was then the workbench room….there was always some restoration/repair going on and the advice and support was exceptional…..those members are still here by the way….additionally B&O equipment was more widely available then and at much more affordable prices…..don’t know what happened but prices suddenly rocketed.

My advice, if your serious about this is join as a silver member and get access to the workshop manuals and circuit diagrams, identify the failed components and start to post pictures and measurements in here and people will start to input advice and guidance, they wont be able to resist…… be prepared for some initial disappointments and frustrations, you will need some test equipment and basic soldering skills…….but I feel given your desire to emulate your late grandfather you may enjoy, dont buy any components from ebay without first seeking advice in here……lots of fake transistors out there!

Craig

• This reply was modified 14 hours, 54 minutes ago by hcraig244.

[hcraig244]

Thats fine…

Would i be right to say that this is only one channel that is smoked and the other is still OK, I’m suspecting the output transistor has failed. Without extensive testing its hard to say for sure….the output transistors are Darlington Pairs and you would need to remove them as a start and test them…if blown they will need replacing along with the burned resistors you can see…also the power transistors normally fail due to something else failing first, that thing will need finding.

Looking at your post you dont have much experience on this sort of thing, as a silver member you can access the manuals in here to help you get an idea of whats ahead of you….

Craig

[hcraig244]

Hi

Is this a Beomaster 3000…..if so at first glance it looks like a possible power transistor short could be responsible

[hcraig244]

That will need to be quite a long weekend…..

[hcraig244]

Peter

You gave it to me several years ago for replacing the 33/45 rpm relay in your BG6000….or was it your BG4001 (with the black facia) i’m taking good care of it 😁

[hcraig244]

It doesn’t address your question around item no 6 on the above procedure, which I cant either…..I note that Rudi deftly avoids that  final step also ;¬)

Craig

[hcraig244]

Take a look at this……

Beogram 4000: Tracking Sensor Bulb Replacement with LED

[hcraig244]

I have been inside several BG4000 over the past few years and not seen a carriage motor with a pulley wheel with a different profile to that which yours has, that doesn’t mean there are none out there of course. Regarding the belt I have had one with a round profile belt that worked fine despite being somewhat floppy, I suspect it started life as a O ring and not a drive belt….I replaced it with a belt from Dillen and adjusted the tension accordingly. The Service Manuals B&O supplied are very detailed and for the most part accurate….but im sure im not alone when it comes to stumbling over the occasional inconsistency therin……..buy a replacement alloy pulley for the drive shaft and a new belt and you will be fine, yours does look perfectly fine by the way……I should replace mine also, just havent got around to it yet ;¬)

Craig

[hcraig244]

last

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[hcraig244]

some more

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[hcraig244]

here we go…

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[hcraig244]

That’s a very ambitious undertaking Jouni..

All credit to you, the cost of producing such a piece must be high…not including your time of course which you give freely, my few dealings with custom laser printed items has always resulted in high costs.

I will provide the images you have requested today……keep the pictures coming.

Craig

[hcraig244]

Jouni

I bought the 15v battery relatively recently, amazon I think VARTA No 4074.15v.V74PX

Craig

[hcraig244]

Oh….and a 15v battery

If I can help anymore let me know

Craig

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[hcraig244]

Couple more

 

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[hcraig244]

No worries Jouni

Not the best images but take a look….

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[hcraig244]

Ahh…..nothing so adventurous Glitch, tried and tested hair dryer technique. So here is the finished article still giving 3.8 ohms and now moving freely….wont commit this to the postal service today  as it will languish in the system all weekend, not good….will send it back Monday morning.

Craig

[hcraig244]

Just needs to be left as the epoxy hardens, the dust cap glued back in place and posting back home…..I don’t know if there is a better way to do this……

[hcraig244]

The epoxy holding the magnet to the frame now hardened, more epoxy can be applied to the magnet face. The whole assembly is then, with a firm and steady grip….the magnet wants to pull down and sidewards, lowered onto the core held in the vice jaws carefully…..the coil is exposed to damage at this point as the core is guided inside it. With a clunk the magnet will grab the vice jaws which can then be released to allow the backplate to snap into place. The coil now gripped by the off centre core can be viewed through the dust cap apperture as the alignment jig is fitted tightly to the magnet by the bottom row of screws and the top row of screws adjusted up against the backplate and used to centre the backplate and core using the dust cap apperture as a guide until the it looks central and the cone and coil move freely within the magnetic field……

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[hcraig244]

The epoxy now dry on the backplate and core it goes back into the vice,  2 or 3mm below the vice jaws

 

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