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Gravity GrahamBRONZE MemberOK – Thanks for that Craig !
Regrettably won’t be able to do any adjustments until after Sunday.
Regards
GrahamLocation: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberHi Mark – been involved with other projects for a while (Major restoration of a 65ft turntable !) I’ve finally finished re-capping my 1900-2 amp, which is now working.
However, when playing an LP on my BG-6000 it is ‘skipping ahead’. I’ve looked through the manual (obtained from BeoWorld), but can’t seem to find how to adjust the shutter..??
(I can’t find it in the BG-4000 manual either..)
Can you advise, and say on which page I will find it ?
G.G.
p.s. – photo of BIG turntable attached..Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberSad news – I’ve enjoyed looking at some of his work..
Condolences to his family.Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberI’ll give you that one Craig ! 😀
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberHi Spassmaker – it’s not shown in the photos, but the terminals of the reservoir capacitors have been masked with ‘black-tack’ which will keep them well insulated. Thanks for your concern. They are also held in place by ‘black-tack’.
and to hcraig244, while working on field survey equipment in Houston, if a PCB came in with ANY fault, we always changed out any tantalum capacitors for electrolytics as a matter of course before sending it back out. Even though opinion is divided, I decided to go with that rationale. And as regards the trimmers, on that point I personally like to go with the adage of “if it ain’t broke – don’t fix it” as they are working fine.Gravity G.
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberHere are some pictures ! TR22 was u/s, so changed it out while replacing the Tantalum capacitors.
I also switched out the supply filter capacitors (old electrolytic) – for 2 separate new electrolytics (The 4000uF was replaced with a 4700uF at this point).
All back together and working (ish) – Still need to fix my BeoMaster 1900 !!Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberSorry guys – been a bit busy, working a different turntable (65 ft diameter)..
I’ll post a couple of pix, hopefully tomorrow (Monday)Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberWork is progressing slowly ! The power supply electrolytics have been replaced, but still awaiting delivery of electrolytics to replace all the Tantalum capacitors on the PCB’s, before I proceed any further. I may take the time to remove and check the transistors and diodes in the motor circuit…
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberHi Mark, I can cue forward (< or <<), but not return (> or >>).
If I press STOP, it does stop – but does not return.
When it reaches the centre of the TT, it stops, but again refuses to return.
At least on this the electronics can be unplugged for testing, unlike the 4000 !
I think you may be right about the caps – might start by replacing all electrolytics as they are a good 30 years old !!
Tks – GrahamLocation: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberOK Mark – checked it and it’s lit. However I now have a different problem, with motor control….
It does everything except return or Stop !
I suppose the next thing is to remove the main board, and check the Darlington pairs & diodes !! Onwards and upwards as they say !!
Any known problems with this model ??Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberThanks Mark – found it ! Will check it later today !
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberMark-sf wrote:There is a bulb
n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.Silly question - What is the identity number on the circuit diagram ? Regards - Gravity G.
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberI’ve finally given up on the BeoGram4000… The BC144s never arrived, but did manage to source some from elsewhere..
After a while, I checked the voltage regulator cct – and found that it had blown, which is why I was taking out so many motor control transistors ! Replaced the voltage regulator, and all seemed to finally working correctly ! 5 mins later everything blew again…
Time to shelve it…
Now concentrating on my BeoGram 6000, which has a tracking problem, but otherwise is good..Update: on 29th of Nov, I ordered 4 new BC144’s on eBay (from Italy) – He sent them tracked on 2nd Dec, they arrived in UK on 5th… Still not been delivered.
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberUpdate: on 29th of Nov, I ordered 4 new BC144’s on eBay (from Italy) – He sent them tracked on 2nd Dec, they arrived in UK on 5th… Still not been delivered. I also ordered some electrolytics for my 1900 BeoMaster, from BEOPARTS in Denmark, arrived in UK on 6th Dec – Still sat in the Royal Mail distribution centre…
A friend in the Isle of Man, sent a package by Special Delivery on 5th Dec it finally arrived on the16th ! But, a package he sent by 2nd class mail on the 8th _ arrived here in Cornwall on the 9th !!
Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberIt sounds as if the phono plug has a bad/dry joint.
I would open up the 7 pin DIN from the BeoGram, and check the soldered connections.
I have found that if I warm up the plastic sleeve on the plug, that it can be slowly pulled back to give you a better idea. Otherwise, I suggest getting a new 7-pin DIN and cutting the sleeve off, make a note of which wire is on which pin, then simply replace the plug with the new one. (Remembering to slide the sleeve onto the cable first – been there and made that error in the past !)
Hope this helps – GrahamLocation: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberI found a PDF with a service manual. Or is the writing on the wall/in this manual too blurry?
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Thanks Peter – but already been there.
I actually already have a better copy of the Service Manual depicted here, with the circuit diagrams..
But would really like to see the actual component layout as per the PCB’s…
Looks like I’ll have to use my engineering background to produce my own !!
GrahamLocation: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberWell done..
IF you have a problem where it won’t switch on – check the pwr supply diodes.. I’ve had a couple given to me that didn’t work – and it was quite often that 2 of the diodes had gone o/c… just sayin..Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberFind an original manual.
Martin
————————————I’m awaiting a response from someone on e-Bay who is selling an original manual – I’ve asked if it contains the layout diagrams…
Otherwise, it looks like ordering from USA…
GrahamLocation: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberThanks for that Dillen – I can see markings for F & G, but no numbers. I’ll dig out my maginfying glass and see if I can identify them. I could really do with a PCB layout like I have with my BG400..!!
Regards – Graham H.Location: Cornwall, UKGravity GrahamBRONZE MemberActually Glitch – on the 1900 it is the trace side which is uppermost, and the printing is hardly legible… This is my difficulty..
Location: Cornwall, UK -
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n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.