[filip_kbh]

The datalink cable has 7 pins, yes.

[filip_kbh]

I have now tested for continuity between all pins. There is only continuity where there should be continuity. My money is on the BM7000. I saw Die Boegener made reply to someone around datalink not working after a thunderstorm. Since I did not have my BM7000 since the beginning, I have no clue what has happened to it previuosly.

At https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/28464/223667.aspx he replies:

…

some parts in the datalink section are dead. Nothing special, 50 cents on the pre amplifier board.

Replace:

D5= 12V zener diode 0.5W

TR1=BC547

That’s all…

Not sure if I should look into that at some point.

[filip_kbh]

First of all, it sounds like you have a muting relay problem (faint sound in the Beolab 8000, assuming that they are connected with Powerlink cables and that the setting is correctly chosen on the speakers). Do you have sound in the headphone socket if you connect a headphone?

Secondly, the Master Control Panel 5500 showing ‘No Contact’ is only a sign that there is a problem with 2-way communication. The error can either be in the MCP5500, the BM7000 or possibly both. If the Beolink 1000 does not send out signals, I would first suspect that the battery case is not making proper connection to the batteries – it’s a common file that is easy to fix.

Regarding the Beomaster 7000’s lack of IR response, I would first suspect surface-mounted caps (SMD) on the IR board. But you could start off by simply cleaning the sensors that are bound to be dirty from dust and cigarette smoke.

If you buy another BM7000 there is absolutely no guarantee that you will not run into similar problems or even new problems. they are 35-years old, and they need maintenance, like e.g. a car would not be expected to run for 35 years without exchanging oil, filters, battery etc.

Let us know how it goes.

[filip_kbh]

I think perhaps it would be great to specify which Beogram you have. If there is a threaded bar, I am thinking Beogram 4000/2/4. I have used a silicon lube for mine which seems to be working great since lubrication some years ago.

[filip_kbh]

Have you tested the fuse?

[filip_kbh]

The error is somewhere in that amp.

I just switched the two amps around, and then the display does not work in the other speaker where it worked before.

[filip_kbh]

I now had time to test everything. So the good news is that the display works on one of the pentas. Using the same cable, making sure that the audio/video button is set to audio, the display of the other penta is still not working. Argh.

I made a continuity test from the pins of the attached powerlink MKII cable to the connectors on the powerlink of the actual speaker (with the amplifier completely disconnected). All connections worked out fine.

When connecting the powerlink cable to the amp, the continuity test is a bit strange. I get no continuity on pins 1, 4 and 7 in the Auto mode. I believe pin 4 is data. Any ideas where I should be looking next?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[filip_kbh]

Or it needs a proper cleaning. There is a thread called “Beosound 9000, how to fix the laser” that links to a video on how to clean the laser under the lens and mirror.

[filip_kbh]

Hmmm – my guess is – since it’s a 59xx Beogram – that a small plastic tap has broken off where the wire attaches. There are some good posts about it on the forum.

[filip_kbh]

Glad that the video helped you. Hopefully it will be of use to many others, avoiding unnecessary replacement of the laser unit. Perhaps this thread could be renamed to “Beosound 9000 how to fix the laser” in order for more people to discover it.

[filip_kbh]

So, it was the soldering but not in the actual connector. It was the damn Powerlink cable where the Data Ground had snatched off. After repairing the cable, the display works! Thank you for all the help.

[filip_kbh]

Clear – thanks. Will check the soldering on that connector.

[filip_kbh]

Yes, that area appears to have been hot sometime in the past. It was the same area in both speaker amps. I don’t know the history of the speakers. I bought them from an elderly lady, and she threw in a Beolab 3500 plus cables and connectors for the quite modest price of 263 dollars for all of it. I wasn’t exactly thrilled about getting the Beolab 3500 and immediately put it up for sale. However, it does not appear that it is in demand, so I guess I will mount it in my bedroom. I just need a 1611 converter box.

Glitch – can you tell me where the “lower display connectors” are found? Do you mean in the lower board of the two, or is it found in another place than where the displays are mounted?

[filip_kbh]

However, one problem remains. The displays do not work in either of the speakers. I have them connected to a Beomaster 7000 with a Powerlink Mk2 cable, and the selector at the bottom of the speaker is on Audio. The display in at least one of the speakers worked before I recapped the amplifier and the crossover boards. I did not test the other before I started the rejuvenation.

[filip_kbh]

I hang my head in shame. I used the wrong setting on my multimeter, choosing ADC instead of VDC. So there was no problem at all. The DC current is now between 0 and -1 mV. Sorry for the thread.

[filip_kbh]

Thanks. I hope so.

Indeed it did work before the recap but was getting luke-warm at even low volumes so I presume the idle current was too high (or the dense layer of dust in it caused it). I have re-attached the black ground wire (hopefully to the right place – the solderpoint to the left of D9).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[filip_kbh]

I am currently using

4 x Beolab 8000

1 x Beolab 2

1 Beolab 7-4

together with my Beosystem 7000 and Almando. I have just acquired (well, I am going to fetch them tomorrow night) 2 x Beolab Penta Mk. III (price in Denmark 258 USD), and after restoring them, they will take over for two of the Beolab 8000s in my surround setup.

[filip_kbh]

I guess you mean your Beocord 6500. If the drawer will not open, you can gently pull it out. The tape should be possible to lift up from the side closest to you.

[filip_kbh]

Thank you for part 1. I could also read that you made some modifications so that the sound does not ‘exit’ the amplifier to go through the blind plug, saving quite a bit of signal path. Any advice on how to do this?

[filip_kbh]

Beolit 700 – replacing the dial cord.

Argh – that took a long time and there was a learning curve. First of all finding the right diagram for the cord path – look in the service manual for Beolit 500, because the one found in the service manual for Beolit 700 shows something completely different. After fiddling with the damn string – that I got for free in a Danish fishing equipment store – for literally hours, I figured that I should have a different approach. In the beginning I had tied both ends to the spring which proved to be a huge mistake. New approach: Tie one end to the spring, wind the string four times around the tuner dial knob, wrap it in the correct path and then tie the second end to the string and then snap the spring back down. Job done. Now I just need a few pills for my headache.

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