[Dillen]

Speed switching is done by lifting/lowering the idler wheel, running it on different diameters of the motor pulley.
The lidting is done by rotating a wire so that the “pin” carrying the wheel moves up and down inside a “tube”.
The mechanism could have seized up – take apart, clean and lubricate.

Martin

[Dillen]

These amplifiers blow with an “avalanche”, causing several components to burn and/or short.
It can be very tricky to find all bad components in one go – and if you miss one, it will start all over.
Seeing your board, I suggest you ask around for a complete amp module instead.
Perhaps not as challenging, but easily both faster and cheaper.

Martin

[Dillen]

Beomaster 8000 has a huge rush-in current when powering up.
Your lamp will eat most of the voltage the Beomaster needs to start up properly, and the surge will trigger the standby for safety.
Use a variac instead.

Martin

[Dillen]

Pull the spring-loaded part only.
Not the whole round center assy.

Martin

[Dillen]

If you are sure that everything else is fine, ask Danish Sound Parts for a good replacement motor.
It may not be immediately available online, but don’t let that stop you from asking.

Martin

[Dillen]

Is the belt running correctly on the barrel-shaped area of the motor pulley body? – Not on one of the pulleys flanges?

Martin

[Dillen]

Could be a lot of things – and possibly a combination of power supply ripple, cracked solder joints, flaky connector pins and perhaps something more.
It’s safe to say that all Beomaster 8000s will need a complete overhaul by now, capacitors, trimmers, adjustments etc. if
not already done.
And they are worth it.

Martin

[Dillen]

Keep it standard.
Tighten the contacts in the DIN sockets, and they will be fine.
2x 0,75mm2 cable is more than adequate – that’s also what the original cables are.

Martin

[Dillen]

The parts in your photo look intact.
But perhaps that’s merely a photo you found somewhere?
Else – ask at Danish Sound Parts.
They are known to be able to help with many, else impossible, parts.

Martin

[Dillen]

See here:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4787/343642.aspx

Martin

[Dillen]

I also add a dab of glue to hold the cables in their new position.
Else they will work their way back.

Martin

[Dillen]

The two black cables that runs to the carriage is held firmly to the chassis by a small plastic “bridge”.
Pull the two cables just 4-5mm towards the carriage.

Martin

[Dillen]

Pull the covers sides a little outwards and lift it off.

Martin

[Dillen]

The foam degrades from airs moisture.
Even unused original foam sets have degraded and become useless by now.
New foam sets etc. here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job!
And a great looking machine!
A little too much damping grease – the cover should open a little faster and smoother.

Martin

[Dillen]

I doubt this info to be available.
I’m pretty sure it’s a custom driver with specs not disclosed.

Martin

[Dillen]

There are no electronics in the signal path in this Beogram.
I agree, that the hum must come from improper grounding.

Martin

[Dillen]

If the relay contacts have welded, the amplifier section will be powered at all times.
I suggest you check if you have power to the amp section (f.e. by checking if idle currents are present in standby).
If you do, replace the relay.

Martin

[Dillen]

Cartridge off – store in a safe place.
Top alu plate off (two screws from below, push the tonearm in 20-30 deg, lift the plate a little, pull a little), lift out
the switch for the play button at the front and disconnect plug on board.
Now you can access the belt.
Check the motor suspension rubbers now you are in there. They will be bad if not already replaced.
Careful not to trap leads when fitting back the top surface.
New belt, rubber parts etc. can be found here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, it runs warm.

Martin

[Author]

Posts