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Ah thank you guy, I don’t have any circlip pliers and was too impatient to order some and wait for them, so I tried your second method, only rather than using pliers to bring the two screws together, I used my teeth! My dentist won’t thank me but I got it out (with some difficulty), and the new battery is now installed.
Location: Liverpool
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I have a new battery for my Beocom 2 and have fallen at the first hurdle, almost. After unscrewing the bottom plate and disconnecting the cable, there’s a round plastic thing that holds the battery in place. I’ve tried every which way to pull it out using long nose pliers, while being careful not to snap it, but I can’t get the damned thing out. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Location: Liverpool
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Yes I do see them, but they seem to be much dimmer than they should be – they give off very little light.
Fortunately mine does not seem to suffer any other problems with the display (which I have read about), it’s just the dim backlight that’s an issue.
I did notice however that if left out of the base, the battery lasts very little time, so I have ordered a replacement. Maybe a new battery with more power will help the brightness.
Otherwise I’ll just learn to live with it – I don’t have the skill to replace those lamps!
Location: Liverpool
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You may be onto something there. I got out my old Win7 32bit laptop which has config tool 6.84 already installed, connected the dock, and connected the ‘dead’ Beo6. To my surprise Windows made the ‘device connected’ sound, and the config tool recognised it and created a new profile for it. The Beo6 itself however did not light up, then after a couple of minutes on the dock, Windows made the ‘device disconnected’ sound, and I’ve had nothing since.
I tried installing the earlier 5.12 version of the config tool but got nothing from that, and I tried opening it up and disconnecting the battery (as recommended in B&O’s service manual fort hr Beo6), then putting it back in the dock, but got nothing from that either.
The battery I got for the restored Beo6 was quite cheap though, so I’ll buy another and see if I can get any further with it once it has a new battery in it. The fact that it responded at all when I first connected it to the old laptop is telling me that there’s some life still in it!
Thanks for the advice.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah that’s interesting, I might try some of that with my ‘dead’ one then, before I give up on it. Thanks for the link. I have put it onto the dock which is connected to my PC and the PC is not recognising it, but I won’t give up just yet.
As for the working Beo6 that I bought the battery for, still working, and the battery is still showing about 85%, so it’s looking like a good battery so far.
Location: Liverpool
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Battery from eBay arrived (this one), installed quite easily in the Beo6, and I’m happy to say it works. I left it to charge for a couple of hours then took it off the charger. I’ve also had it connected to my PC a couple of times to configure it, but after a few hours with a little bit of use, it’s still showing an almost full battery.
I was also quite pleased that once I first configured it and the software was updated to 3.40a, I was able to connect it to my Win11 PC rather than having to use an old Win7 32-bit laptop I had bought specifically for programming my two Beo5s.
I did in fact buy two Beo6, not one, but the other ones does appear to be dead – once the battery was fully charged in thew working one, I added it to the other Beo6, but got nothing from it. I did get them very cheap though so it was still worth it for the one that I did get working, and the other one can do for parts – they are both in fantastic cosmetic condition.
After I have been using it for a little while and can give a more thorough report on the battery reliability, I’ll post again.
Location: Liverpool
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Please keep track of the battery you’ve ordered on eBay and let us know how they work.
Will do – when it arrives and is installed, I’ll monitor its performance and leave an update here. The one I bought was this one.
You can see here on the original Beoworld :- Removing Beo5 Battery And searching “removing beo5 battery” on google brings up some suggestions for difficult to remove batteries. Once you start programming DO NOT rely on the USB connection to your PC to charge, it is not strong enough. Especially with the Beo6 because if you drain the battery and the remote goes dead, it is very difficult to revive. I always leave the dock plugged into the mains, and only plug into my PC for putting the file on to the remote to test, then connect back to the mains.
I did damage the Beo6 battery in the process of removing it but that wasn’t important as it was clearly dead (acid leakage) anyway. I do have the service manual for the Beo6 from this site and it shows how to remove the battery. I used that manual for guidance, but even after removing the base, they keypad and the battery holder, the battery is still jammed in really tight, and very difficult remove.
Still, it shouldn’t matter too much now as the damaged battery is out, and inserting the new battery (when it arrives) should be a lot easier than removing one!
And yes, I do use the mains adapter rather than PC connection to charge my Beo5s, so will do the same with the Beo6 once it is (hopefully) up and running.
I currently have B&O equipment in two rooms but have ended up with 6 remotes! Beolink 1000, Beo4 Mk1, Beo4 Mk4, two Beo5 (one is faulty though, see here), and now a Beo6. I love all of my B&O stuff but especially the remotes – so unique.
I’ve just realised I omitted to start this post in the Beo5 and Be6 subforum by the way – admins; please feel free to move it, if you can.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks – I realised that the Beo5 and Beo6 have the same charger and the same battery, and I have a faulty Beo5 already (it has a display issue) which has had a new battery in the past, so I thought I would try and swap the battery.
I gotrthe Beo6 open and got the battery out with considerably difficulty – it’s a tight fit and it does not come out easily! I could see as soon as I removed it that it seemed to be the original battery, B&O labelled, and showed obvious signs of leakage. Luckijly though, so signs of damage to the inside of the Beo6 itself.
I tried to take the battery out of my faulty Beo5 but I could not get it out – I didn’t want to risk cosmetic damage to that Beo5 (I’m hoping I might one day be able to fix the display issue) so I sat them side-by-side while still opened up, and connected the battery of the Beo5 to the Be06 board. The display and keypad lit up, so it seems it does work! I’ve ordered a new battery for it on eBay.
I have been able to figure out the programming for my Beo5s (I bought a cheap Win7 laptop from eBay for that specific purpose), so hopefully I’ll be able to figure out the Beo6 too, once the battery arrives and I get it all reassembled.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah, is that what it is? I didn’t know that a travel charger existed for that, but it makes sense. I’ve never owned a BS2 so I have no idea where I got this from, must have been in one of the ‘random box of B&O stuff’ that I buy from eBay more often that I really should.
Thanks for the help – appreciated.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah, found it! If you have an audio source already selected, then press the Scene soft button, A.Setup is shown. It only works if an audio source is already selected, but then when you do press it, you get Bass, Treble, Loudness and S. Store.
Location: Liverpool
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Yes I read that in the Beo5 handbook too, but still, neither S.STORE or SOUND STORE appear as a button you can add in the config tool. There is just a STORE button available to add, but that has no effect.
Seems odd that it would be missing in the Beo5 config tool – there must be a way to add it, surely.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah, that was it, thanks! I did have a video source selected when I tried (but only because I use one of the inputs on my BV7 TV for an audio source).
I selected Radio first, then I was able to get to A.Setup. It worked and I have stored my new volume and sound settings using my Beo4. Still can’t figure out how to do the same with my Beo5, but at least it’s sorted, thanks.
Location: Liverpool
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That’s the trouble – I can’t seem to add A.Setup successfully on the Beo4. I have added it, but then when I use the List button to cycle through extra buttons, it doesn’t come up.
If I go back into List settings I can see that A.Setup is there (available for me to move or remove), so I know I added it successfully, but I cannot seem to get it to appear in the extra buttons when I click List.
Location: Liverpool
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I should add – I connected a network cable and the B&O app was able to find the Moment, and it’s visible in the app, so it’s ‘working’ in a sense, but no display.
Location: Liverpool
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A yes, I’d forgotten about that (having tried and failed before to run it in Win11). I’ve tried v2.7.0, it installed fine. I ran it for my setup and it recommended the exact configuration that I have, but nice to have it confirmed!
Location: Liverpool
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Just FYI – My ‘main’ PC is about to get a new motherboard and hard drive upgrade, which will mean a new install of Win 11. I didn’t really want to have to go to the trouble of reinstalling VirtualBox, setting up a virtual Win7-32 machine again, and fiddling about with the settings to get it all to work, so I thought of an easier solution – get a Win7-32 laptop!
I got one of eBay for £25, and the Beo5 config tool (as well as the 3rd party XML generator I found on the old forum) were easily installed on that – I’ll use that cheap laptop as my Beo5 programmer, as I have two Beo5s (one not working, but I’m hoping to fix it – see here if you can help!), and I know what I’m like – I’ll want to keep altering it. Having a Win7-32 laptop specifically for that purpose seemed the best option, and it was a cheap option too.
Location: Liverpool
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Hi all
Yes, I got it working. In VirtualBox (with Win7-32) I found that adding the USB port was quite easy. The problem I had was adding the connection between the virtual C drive and my host computer’s actual hard drive, so I could copy the installer program onto the virtual machine itself! I got a lot of help from google searches but eventually figured it out.
The configurator is installed and working now – I installed the 5.12 version first, updated the firmware on my Beo5, and then installed the 6.84 version. It seems to be working fine, and I have been able to create a nice setup for my various devices, including link room devices.
I haven’t tried to set up any third party devices yet, which I know can be more complicated, but I’m most of the way there.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks – yes I thought that might be the problem but wasn’t 100% clear that I had understood it right, thanks for clarifying.
I have installed VirtualBox and installed Win7-32 within that, but I’m having trouble with it. I can get it to recognise the USB, but I cannot get the file transfer to work, so I can’t get the Configuration Tool’s exe file on to the virtual machine in order to install it!
I’ll keep trying and post here how I get on. I’m also considering the option of juts getting hold of an old, cheap Win7-32 laptop, as I’m sure it will come in useful again – I’m bound to want to reprogram my Beo5 in the future.
Location: Liverpool
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Just for info – since posting this yesterday I found this page on the B&O site which explains how to set your Beoplay A8 into other options, including A.Opt 4 where it would only respond to link commands.
Sinc the little round remote that comes with Beosound 8 / Beoplay A8 has no Link button, I can only assume that those two models were set up to respond to standard Beolink IR codes but also the separate codes from the little round remote. Those codes must be unique to that little round remote – surely that’s the only way it could work.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks
I’ve ended up with one of these remotes in a package of B&O stuff, which is why I ask. I don’t have a Beosound 8 or Beoplay A8 and have no intention of buying one, but it’s a nice little remote, and if it would have controlled my other equipment, I would have kept it.
However when I test it, it does not control my Beosound 4.
Since I added the original post I have done the ‘phone camera test’ to check that the IR LED is blinking when a button is pressed, and it is, so I would have to assume that it is working, but it does not send the same signals as a Beo4.
Shame, but not a major issue for me, I’ll just sell it on eBay. Thanks for your help.
Location: Liverpool
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