[Beobuddy]

I would start by using the keyboard to store settings.

[Beobuddy]

Make sure you have a fully wired scart cable, Instructions are send through scart.

[Beobuddy]

Gently pull the glass at side where the buttons are. Then you can release the screws in the hinges to take off the glassdoor completely.

[Beobuddy]

Happens mostly when the plastic tab on the carriage has broken and replaced by something else. There is a easy way to solve this. Take off the platter and shift the carriage to the middle a bit. You will see a small gear with + AND – AROUND it. This one sets the landing point (for 45 rpm, but also indrectly for the 33 whem the tab has been replaced)

[Beobuddy]

Nice piece of tinkering MM.

I also use a Mac Mini. Holden by a magnetic frame for easing taking it off the wall, which nevers happens. Just starting the BS1 in the Kitchen for radio in the morning and taking the Essence remote sometimes with me to put it on the table for easing controlling. I have a Halo but the table remote is much lighter and easier for everyone around the table for volume control. When it lays flat on the table it doesn’t make a difference from which side at the table you turn the wheel. It’s always the same.
After having started the BS1, the MacMini shows for the rest of the day the weather app from Netatmo.

[Beobuddy]

Try to put the BS4 in the factory setting A-option 1. A back to defaults might cure this also.

When the BS4 has been used in combination with a B&O television previously, then option settings might be the cause of this.

[Beobuddy]

It happens regularly. The powersupply then fails. Most are repairable.
A dealer can send the Beolab to DK for repair. If there isn’t one nearby, you can send it over to me.

[Beobuddy]

You might use “Speaker 2” instruction on your Beo4. List until “speaker” appears, then press 2.

 

[Beobuddy]

Hi Vince,

Ik zou zelf geen tafel versturen waarbij de transportschroeven niet zijn vastgezet. Zelfs dat is niet voldoende. De naaldarm(en)  behoren ook ondersteund te zijn tijdens transport.
Zoals je ziet is praktisch het meeste van het mechaniek een vorm van plastic. Na verloop van jaren is de kans op breuk dan ook best groot. Meerdere punten binnen de tafel kunnen dan ook breken. In dit geval is het plastic nokje op de wagen dan ook de oorzaak van de losse kabel. Bijna een standaard geval bij deze type tafels.
Makkelijk is relatief. Het systeem moet aan de achterzijde los om er goed bij te kunnen. Na herstel van dat nokje zal het daalpunt van de arm ook moeten worden gecontroleerd en eventueel opnieuw moet worden afgesteld.

[Beobuddy]

The BS9000 was designed in the era that it could be used as standalone (A-option 1, factory setting), or used in a so-called “master-slave” setup, where in the same room another video product was placed and was setup in a V-option 2. In this master-slave setup the loudspeakers are attached to the Video -product and soundsettings are made in that video product. Both products are then connected throught the Masterlink cable for distributing both audio and instruction commands.

So, by not connecting the BS9000 with active loudspeakers or putting it in A-option 0, the BS9000 assumes that speakers are attached to another product where sound settings normally are made.

The software for the BS9000 has been designed that way and was aimed to be used in a B&O ecosystem.  It doesn’t make sense according to that system to use the BS9000 as standalone and disable the functions for remote and soundsettings. Starting a source on a BS9000 did make sense though, where the rest of the system follows accordingly.

[Beobuddy]

A Beolab 5 can calibrate even without any cables attached. Just a powercord should be fine.

When the led flashes green without any sound, often the amplifier for the lower bass has ceased.

But begin at the start. The BL5 normally used in L-opt 0 when used with powerlink cords. L-opt 1 is used when you use then with 3rd party players.
When you set them in L-opt 1, you use Radio to activate the BL5’s. Can you feel any vibration at the lower bass when playing music?

[Beobuddy]

The BL4000mk2 needs a new or another ICE amplifer. Be carefull as the erractic sounds may harm the tweeter. Wouldn’t be the first that has been ceased because of the sound.

The BL1 needs a service, which I might be able to provide. It’s not just a capacitor/wire/whatever.

[Beobuddy]

All of the above is good advise when it indeed is about the BM7000 and former series with their discrete build amplifiers.

The BC9500 has a simplified amplifier consisting a STK module without the idle and offset trimmers.

The reason the BC9500 shuts off is most off the time caused by voltage on the output due to a malfunction in the powersupply or defective STK module.

[Beobuddy]

Try to play the BL5. Does the lower woofer at the bottom vibrate while playing music?

[Beobuddy]

If you look at the diagram from PCB 15. The drivers are placed the way they are drawn from top to bottom.

[Beobuddy]

I hope this will be enough. I made it ages ago 😉
Looking towards the drivers when placed, the tweeter sits at the right side.
I understand it can be sometimes a bit confusing.

[Beobuddy]

I searched a drawing of the wiring. It is taken from behind. So looking at the sockets.

[Beobuddy]

As I look more closely, your wiring is wrong.

[Beobuddy]

If you have no sound from the mids that means your mids has been wired the wrong way. Sometimes only 1 driver produces sound.
There are 2 sets consisting of 2 drivers. Each set are in series. The first set are the outer ones. These 2 are in series. 1 orange wire goes from the (+) to the (-) on the other side.

Then the 2 middle drivers are in series. Again one (+) connected with the other one (-) with a orange lead. The blue and orange leads are connected correctly. The orange wires which goes down the tower can be interchanged without problems. These 2 end both at the same junction at the board. If wiring is correctly done but you still have hardly any sound from them (outer 2 drivers deliver less sound than the 2 middle ones due to the filtering on the board), then check L3 on PCB 15. It happens that these are burned.

[Beobuddy]

NickNS wrote:

. Seller told me that amplifiers were re-capped, and mids have new (rubber) surroundings.  NickNS

If you would take replacing the mids with rubber surrounds”” as reference for the complete service what has been done, then I don’t have much confidence in the quality what has been done.
Often the so-called and mis-used term “refurbished” is used by some who barely can handle a solder iron and just start replacing all the caps and call it job done at that point.

Occasionally I get sets from new-(secondlife) owners who just bought their set which starts malfunctioning. Sometimes it’s eye sobbering how bad the quality of soldering is. “Let’s put just some extra solder there on that joint” seams to be thought resulting in nice floating solder balls just above the joints. I’ve seen it on some throughout compplete boards.

But just wondering whether the BM5000 ever has had some attention. What output is used? The speakersockets or the pre-amp level output. Due to aging in the relays that also might affect the quality of the sound. As with lots of other possible causes.

[Author]

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