[auric]

Hi Die:

I’m curious, was the 2 Motor mechanism better than the 1 Motor mechanism?

Why the change? Cost reduction?

Derek

[auric]

Hi Martin:

Thank you for this valuable information! Really appreciate it.

I have the single motor version of the cassette mechanism. The problem is that the plastic mounting brackets are all crumbling apart. The weak points are where the self tapping screws attach to the mechanism. It is unavoidable because you must remove the plastic cover at some point to replace the belts.

I tried finding donor parts but they are equally all fragile. I have tried epoxy and various glues but the plastic is too fragile.

The plastic cover on the dual motor cassette mechanism does not have this problem because the plastic cover simply clips onto the mech.

So I thought to simply swap the mechanisms instead?

Martin, maybe you can make an aftermarket replacement 🙂

 

Derek

 

[auric]

Thanks Orava:

There is one transistor, BC 818 that regulates the -9V rail that is prone to fail and I know to check it.

Its really strange that all of the other power supplies are on the big heat sink or implemented with higher current transistors. The BC 818 is a surface mount under the PCB.

On this occasion its not that one.

Right now the laser will seek, but the motor won’t spin. I may move a few degrees but won’t spin up.

Derek

 

 

 

 

[auric]

Well that’s actually my working decoder board.

I know there is some controversy over the Philips/Visay axial blue caps having gone through the archived posts on whether they are specifically required.

Since I have very limited experience with the Philips CDM series transports, I won’t challenge anyone who knows a lot more about these things than I do.

All I can say is someone replaced them years ago and the board has been playing fine on my working 9500 unit. I also noticed that on the early Beocenter 2500, also a Philips CDM4  transport, there are no blue Philips capacitor inside.

The decoder board on the non-working 9500 that has now gone bad is stock original. I really don’t like shotgun replacing all capacitors. Are the blue caps suspect? All voltage rails are present and at the right levels.

 

Derek

[auric]

Hi Die:

I have the schematics for the servo and decoder board  from the BC9500 service manual.

It’s the decoder board at fault. (Picture attached). The cd mechanism works fine. CD mechanism plays fine on another 9500 chassis.

Just when the decoder board was failing, it would spin the CD slowly in reverse.

Derek

[auric]

Hi Die:

What are the values of those 5 capacitors?

1. 22uF, 6.3V X 2 units
2. 4.7uF, 6.3V
3. 6.8uF, 6.3V
4. This is the one inside the IR shield – Do you know the value?

Do you recommend sticking to 6.3V or go higher?

Thanks,

Derek

[auric]

Hi Jacques:

The famous “blue” cap is on the servo board of the CD mechanism.

The fault in my system is in the controller / DA decoder board.

Derek

[auric]

Hi Die:

Thanks for this. I think I will do this for preventative maintenance. But I don’t think its the BL 7000.

 

What’s strange is that the remote will see the Source and Volume but not always the clock.

So even off the charger, it will communicate with the BC9500 but show “operational conflict”. I also cannot program the BC 9500 clock with the remote.

So I think it is the BC 9500?

Derek

[auric]

I ended up sending it to Pyramid Audio in Tx.

They had it for about 9 months and were not able to fix it. I paid to have it sent back.

Was a little disappointed with how it was reassembled. It was missing a few screws and some of the screws didn’t match, ie I didn’t get it back exactly as I sent it. They probably figured it was dead anyhow.

[auric]

Hi Die:

Problem solved.

Cold solder joint on connector connector to the shielded cable for the freq. oscillator from radio board to the MPU board.

Derek

[auric]

Die:

Many thanks! Turns out there was nothing wrong at all with the remote. As you said it was the battery. Oddly the battery was only 1 year old.

Thank you.

Derek

[auric]

Hi: Die Bogener:

Thanks for responding!

->This is typical for a defect accu

What is “accu?”

This happens even when there is no battery pack.

I disconnected the battery pack. When the remote is on standby I get 8.1  volts across the leads to the battery pack. When it is awake mode, the voltage drops to 1.1 volts. But because the remote is constantly cycling from “Standby” to “off” to “on,”  the battery is unable to charge.

Derek

[Author]

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