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  • #33380
    Guy
    Moderator

    Battery acid corrosion had broken the negative terminal in my Video Terminal’s battery compartment, so I made a new terminal using a re-purposed picture hook.

    IMG_7005

    Location: Warwickshire, UK
    My B&O Icons: No description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33381
    Guy
    Moderator

    Then cleaned up yet another Beo4 remote and must have been on auto-pilot because I didn’t spot the obvious mistake until re-assembled!

    IMG_7007

    Location: Warwickshire, UK
    My B&O Icons: No description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33382
    Madskp
    GOLD Member

    Battery acid corrosion had broken the negative terminal in my Video Terminal’s battery compartment, so I made a new terminal using a re-purposed picture hook. IMG_7005

    great job of re purposing other materials for these repairs. At some point there might not be enough donor remotes for spare parts anymore.

    Location: Denmark
    #33383
    Madskp
    GOLD Member

    Then cleaned up yet another Beo4 remote and must have been on auto-pilot because I didn’t spot the obvious mistake until re-assembled! IMG_7007

    that is perfect as a IR command converter then ?

    Location: Denmark
    #33384
    Guy
    Moderator

    that is perfect as a IR command converter then

    Ha ha! My OCD won’t let me leave it like that! I replaced the keyboard because a previous owner had picked away at the volume button and that was annoying me. It’s actually a tatty one that I leave on my desk to check my answers to Forum Beo4 questions. It also has a missing pixel line on the screen but it’s over to the left hence rarely appears.

    IMG_7008

    Location: Warwickshire, UK
    My B&O Icons: No description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33386
    beosince
    BRONZE Member

    One of the simpler projects: Updating the Beogram audio cable.

    The audio cable on my Beogram 4000 had been shortened and, after checking the pinout, had actually been done wrong as the both shielding were connected to the same pin.

    wrong

    I bought Sommer Cable Galileo 238 Plus BK (2 meters) and a new DIN plug from Ryan (only gold was in stock, but I will not see it anyway).

    Stripping the wire:

    cable1

    Sorting out the shielding:

    cable2

    Soldering on the plug:

    cable3

    The result:

    cable4

    I also do the same to the power plugs as cable has usually yellowed and I feel its nicer it both cables match. Obviously this does not change anything with regards to audio quality, but it allows the extension of the cable and is a nice visual update.

     

    #33387
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Nice job – but as I see it, there is no longer any shielding between the two signal leads.
    There is quite an amount of amplification to whatever comes out of that cable, so even
    the tiny amount of transfer caused by capacitive coupling between the two long parallel
    leads close together could cause the channels to mix a little (loss of channel separation).
    It’s marginal – that’s correct, but the old cable was in fact of better quality in this respect.

    The new cable would be better suited for balanced signals, really, – stage gear, microphones with long leads and the likes.

    And you are absolutely right about the two grounds.

    Martin

    #33388
    beosince
    BRONZE Member

    i do agree that the original cable probably has better shielding between the two signal cables. The new cable has quite thick plastic shielding on the signal cables though, so I hope the transfer is neglectable.
    Can you recommend a cable that is readily available that is better suited for the job?
    I need to re-paint part of a Beogram 4000, do you have a recommendation when it comes to the black color used?

    as always thanks for your valuable input!

    #33389
    Dillen
    Moderator

    It’s difficult to find cable of the same type as the original.
    So far I have managed with what I could find in the dungeons from scrapped units and leftovers collected over decades from closed repairshops, but perhaps Steve can give us an idea?

    The original black color seems to vary a little. If this is because of age and sunlight or because the original production spanned several paint batches I cannot say.
    A not-to-reflective but not exactly flat silk black either, should be close.

    Martin

    #33390
    Evan
    GOLD Member

    6998F531-AEA1-401E-90AD-9D78566DA6B4

    Hey everyone – I am slowly getting my Beo gear acquired in the UK/EU moved back to the US. The first to arrive was my BeoLink 7000 and charging base.

    Is there a way to convert to 110VAC for use in USA? Service manual and a look inside the base themselves don’t offer an obvious method for doing so.

     

    Thanks!

    Location: San Francisco
    My B&O Icons: No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33391
    Motorman
    BRONZE Member

    I’m just restoring an Beogram CD 7000 which is optical in a very good condition.
    Only the CD Tray had some ugly oxidation marks in the shiny middle area.
    Since I also restore cars, I have access to a sandblasting cabin. Since the traces of oxidation cannot be polished away (it was turned shiny at the time), I sandblasted the area. I am quite satisfied with the result. It’s not original, but it almost looks like it 😉
    Before:

    IMG_20230924_173908

    After:
    IMG_20230925_164211

     

     

    #33392
    Tignum
    GOLD Member

    looks very good!

    Location: Netherlands
    My B&O Icons: No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33393
    Motorman
    BRONZE Member

    looks very good!

    Thank you very much!

    #33394
    auric
    BRONZE Member

    Hello Evan:

    Yes the charging base can be converted to run on 120. The primary of the transformer actually has two windings. For 24o, the windings are placed in series which is how yours is wired.

    To make it run on 120, you will need to unsolder the primary lugs from the transformer. T Lift them off and fold them over onto the other side of the PCB so that it bypasses the traces which connect the windings in series. Then you can connect the windings in parallel.

    You can also cut the traces on the PCB, but I prefer modifications that are non-destructive and can be reversed.

    Derek

    PS: I’m in SF as well!

     

    #33395
    Evan
    GOLD Member

    Hey Derek – Thanks for the info! No worries, there won’t be any traces cut here.

    I’ll add another photo of the bottom, it seems like there is a trace that can be broken intentionally underneath (there is a pair of joined solder pads). This path runs under the transformer from what I remember, however I could be mistaken. I’m on vacation right now but will add a photo and try to identify the spot on the schematic when I return home.

    Glad to read there are other BeoWorld members in SF!

     

     

    Location: San Francisco
    My B&O Icons: No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33396
    pilatomic
    BRONZE Member

    Slowly reverse engineering the Datalink protocol used between the BeoMaster / BeoCord / BeoGram 5500, for a secret project.P_20230928_151948

    #33397
    Tignum
    GOLD Member

    Keep us posted, we will not tell anyone!

    Location: Netherlands
    My B&O Icons: No description available No description availableNo description availableNo description availableNo description available
    #33398
    Madskp
    GOLD Member

    Slowly reverse engineering the Datalink protocol used between the BeoMaster / BeoCord / BeoGram 5500, for a secret project.P_20230928_151948

    sounds very interesting. Looking forward to more info.

    Are you avare of these two projects?:

    https://github.com/jensjoachim/B_and_O_Projects

    https://github.com/toresbe/datalink

    Location: Denmark
    #33399
    pilatomic
    BRONZE Member

    Thank you for the links. I indeed had a look at them, but it turns out they are not comprehensive enough for my use case.

    I will of course post my progress here, once I reach a point where I have enough to show to justify a dedicated thread.

    #33400
    AdamS
    GOLD Member

    Finally getting round to sorting out my Beolab Penta 2s. I re-foamed the midranges earlier in the year so have now re-fitted them and am working on the amplifiers.

     

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