What are you working on now?

[Multicare]

T.W.G wrote:

Did you replicate the original Bang & Olufsen fonts

Thanks, we tried to get as close as possible but as its a recreation it is was not something we felt that needed to be an exact match.

Location: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Favourite Product: BeoGram 400x
Signature: Multicare Electronics - Authorised Bang & Olufsen repair.
My B&O Icons:

[Glenn Hargreaves]

Hi

I’ve just finished recapping a Beomaster 2400 and refurbed a 1202 turntable which both work very nicely, so nicely my son decided he’d like them! Fortunately I’ve acquired 2 Beomaster 5000s, one worked on everything but phono input and the other was a bit more damaged with a receiver board in two pieces. How that happened I’ve no idea. I also acquired a non working MCP 5000 that’s been extensively bodged (see picture ) so I’ll have to unbodge it. Anyway there’s enough there to keep me going for a while !

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[Evan]

Just doing a small test run of a rig I put together for a friend’s house party. I needed a small stereo rig that I could fly with (checked bag here, though – no batteries) but packed a decent punch. I’ll be running them through the 3.5mm aux from a small Motu sound card connected to my laptop so I can circumvent any app/wifi nonsense. Test run conclusion from my apartment: a pair of BeoSound 2s bring plenty of slam 😎

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Location: San Francisco

[trackbeo]

Nice, and sleek looking for the party too.  Are you simply running Apple Music.app thru the MOTU M2, or something DJ-ier?

[Evan]

trackbeo wrote:

Nice, and sleek looking for the party too.  Are you simply running Apple Music.app thru the MOTU M2, or something DJ-ier?

Yeah! These things will definitely raise the profile of the party. I’m not a DJ in the slightest, so I am just bringing a playlist and if people feel like making requests, they can cue them up on the computer instead of a mobile device etc. But yes, Apple Music (iTunes) or Tidal played through the M2 via USB.

Location: San Francisco

[Guy]

I had a visit from a couple of my cousins yesterday and they dropped off some B&O for ‘repair’ 😀

I powered each up briefly yesterday.

On the left a BeoSound 3000 – I think the only problem is the doors being very slow to open.  CD and radio worked well.  I’ll strip it down, give it a good clean (remove white paint specks!) and replace the door drive belt at the least.

On the right BeoSound 4 with DAB.  This seems pretty dead other than red standby light showing.  The glass door opens, and moves further for CD loading as it should, but that’s about it!  I can’t even put it in Service Menu.  I have never worked on one of these before, so I had a quick search of the earlier forums and think there could be an ‘unrepairable’ problem with PCB06 (the main microprocessor board) so I don’t hold out much hope!  (It’s not a PIN problem – I do have the PIN but it is not being requested, and I an unable to enter the PIN menu)

Anyway, I won’t have any time to look at either until September, so I will get back to the forum to let you know how I get on …

Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

and replace the door drive belt at the least.

My recommendation would be to also replace the clamper belt while you have it open since it is relatively easy to do.

 

Guy wrote:

I have never worked on one of these before,

I had one for a very short while which had an issue with opening the glass door. I newer figured out what was the problem before I passed it on to another owner. But my short experience with it is that it is not as easy to work on as the BC2300/BC 2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3000, and the plastic parts just feel more fragile in my opinion.

One thing I did while I had it was trying to remove some of the sticky coating on the surface of it. On other products my experience is that you can rub with IPA until you have removed it and get to a ok looking plastic surface. On the BS4 front panel it was like I could rub down to an ok looking surface, but if I was rubbing to much I came down to a very blank looking plastic surface that was not as nice to look at. So be careful if you try to remove the coating on the front panel

Location: Denmark

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

My recommendation would be to also replace the clamper belt while you have it open since it is relatively easy to do.

Good idea – yes I think I will do that also.  I’ll probably need to place a Danish Sound Parts order so best to get a few extra spares.

I think on the BS4 I will leave the sticky plastic as it is – it’s not mine!  If I get it working that will be enough of a success!

Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:

[YannChris]

Hello Beoworlders,

The belt of the arm carriage of my Beogram 6006 (type 5625, 1984, with linear motor) was broken and I replaced it.

Unfortunately, the detection arm was damaged during the disassembly  and I had to fix it by gluing the plastic holder where the arm is screwed on the carriage.

I managed to have it horizontal.

Now, when I play a record, the carriage moves to the beginning of the record (it also makes a complete cycle with speed change if no record is present) and the stylus descends. So it seems that the detection system is OK.

But when the disc reading starts, the arm does not move and the stylus jumps as if with a scratched disc (see attached video). Same problem if I move the arm in the middle of the record.

What could it be and what can I check?

Thanks by advance,

Yann.

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Location: Brittany, France
My B&O Icons:

[Dillen]

Wrongly set tracking force?
Bad stylus tip?
Defective lamp or LDR for the tracking system?

Martin

[YannChris]

Update:

• The stylus is new (Soundsmith SMMC20 EN)
• The lamp of the tracking arm and the photo control are glowing.

I tried to adjust the tracking arm’s height at 19,5mm as explained in the service manual.

I noticed that a small tap on the tracking arm starts the playback (I can see the , as if there is a focus issue with the sensor that is solved by the tap. But it has to be done for each disc and I fear that it will harm the tracking arm.

What could I do to go further?

Kind regards,

Yann.

Location: Brittany, France
My B&O Icons:

[YannChris]

Hi,

Attached a new video with the issue and what happens when I tap slightly the chassis.

You can also note the carriage motor on the right of the video.

It stops moving at 13′ of the video and goes back after the tap. First rather fast, then by steps following the move of the reading arm.

Same issue with my 3 cartidges, so I doubt that the stylus are involved.

Tracking arm set at 19,5 mm from the aluminium part of the platter and tracking weight at 1,2 g.

So I wonder if something is mis-aligned in the carriage, but I don’t know how to remove it from the rails and would avoid to break anything.

May someone explain the process?

Kind regards,

Yann.

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Location: Brittany, France
My B&O Icons:

[Guy]

So today the new belts arrived from Danish Sound Parts so I could crack on with fixing the BS3000 doors.  The parts were only ordered on Thursday evening, so a great quick service, fully tracked with Royal Mail.

But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …

But back to the BS3000.  I’d already given the exterior and interior a good clean, especially the door runners – I also applied a small amount of WD40 Silicon Lubricant.  I replaced both the door belt and the CD clamper belt – both pretty straightforward and there’s plenty of threads/videos to help.  The main worry is not to let the tiny circlips spring across the room during removal!  It’s all up and running now, ready for return to my cousin.  Some photos for reference – showing the new belts fitted:

I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4.  Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine).  On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading.  The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting.   I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work.  I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu.  I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.

Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter:  https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907

So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system.  Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert.  The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work!   So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!

Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.

Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …

I have repaired that same fault on several pieces of toys 🙂 Not great production quality

Guy wrote:

I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4.  Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine).  On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading.  The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting.   I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work.  I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu.  I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.
Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter:  https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907
So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system.  Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert.  The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work!   So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!
Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.

Tough luck. These Beosound 4’s does not seem to be as easy to work on as the BC2300/2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3×00 system

Looking in the servicemanual for the BS4 something about modules being registered to the BS4 when powered on for more than 12 hours or the Pin code being activated/deactivated which sounds like a lock in between the main PCB and the other components which could probably cause trouble if one module is malfunctioning.

I also noticed in the servicemanual that there are some pictures showing different points where certain voltages should be available. If you wan’t to dig further one option could be trying top measure if these voltages are present.

Other than that trying to switch modules with some from a donor could be an option, knowing that it could have the same issues.

Location: Denmark

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

Tough luck. These Beosound 4’s does not seem to be as easy to work on as the BC2300/2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3×00 system

I agree – they’re far too modern for my liking.

Madskp wrote:

Looking in the servicemanual for the BS4 something about modules being registered to the BS4 when powered on for more than 12 hours or the Pin code being activated/deactivated which sounds like a lock in between the main PCB and the other components which could probably cause trouble if one module is malfunctioning.

Thanks @madskp I hadn’t spotted the 12 hour comment!   Because I disconnected several ribbon cables when dismantling, I will power the unit up and leave it overnight in the hope that this may cause the modules to ‘re-register’.  I don’t hold out much hope, but worth a try!

Madskp wrote:

I also noticed in the servicemanual that there are some pictures showing different points where certain voltages should be available. If you wan’t to dig further one option could be trying top measure if these voltages are present.

The manual also says that the BS4 should be in CD mode when testing voltages.  I can’t get it into that mode, or indeed any mode other than standby!

The service manual does also mention a removable/replaceable EPROM on PCB06, but as you can see in my photo, where the metal cover is removed, none of the chips look to be removable.

I’ll persist a bit longer, but to be honest I don’t like working on it!  Those pull-out ribbon cables are very tricky, and the very sticky outer case leaves black marks all over your hands (and workbench) when handling it.  I am adamant that I won’t clean it until it shows signs of life!

Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I’ll persist a bit longer, but to be honest I don’t like working on it!  Those pull-out ribbon cables are very tricky, and the very sticky outer case leaves black marks all over your hands (and workbench) when handling it.

I had the same feeling when I was working on one of these.

Guy wrote:

I am adamant that I won’t clean it until it shows signs of life!

Fully understandable, it’s a lot of work if it does not end up working

Location: Denmark

[Nick Davison]

I’m busy working over 6 Penta 3s and 2 Penta 2s that are all having new foams and full cap sets. Also I have been replacing some trim to keep them looking great. Bits I am in the process of:-

1. Replace the rear trim strips that normally come off and distort.  I had to get these made as couldn’t find any for sale. I will have some left over at the end if anyone is desperate for them.

2. Repairing a cut inner amp plug that was snipped off for some reason.

3. Making up the odd mid range speaker leads that were missing.

4. Lots of polishing and the odd bit of plastic repair.

5. Replacing the mirror base on two although I still need a couple more to be a perfectionist if anyone knows of some for sale?

 

6. Replace switch panel door as the locking rang has broken off one. Still need that if there is one anywhere.

Another question do the Penta displays work when plugged into a BC9300. I have fully wired leads and they do work on the TV but not with my 9300. Is that a fault?

cheers

Nick

Location: Lincolnshire UK
Favourite Product: Penta 2&3

[Madskp]

Nick Davison wrote:

Another question do the Penta displays work when plugged into a BC9300. I have fully wired leads and they do work on the TV but not with my 9300. Is that a fault?

Not sure, but is it correct that there is a switch for selecting either Audio or Video on the socket panel of the Pentas?

If so maybe that will change the behaviour

Location: Denmark

[Mike]

Please Help

Hi, I just bought a Beocenter 9000. Was able to fix all the problems it had except one. On the first several tracks of CD (higher speed) there is a whistling noise coming from the motor, then starting from track #4 it runs OK. Any thoughts how to fix this. Thanks

[Nick Davison]

Madskp, I’ll give that a go.  I also note that I have an issue with the left speaker chanel output not working or very quiet so It may all be connected.  After reading a few posts and s the BC is a bit old it may be plug/board issues or maybe a relay problem.  I need to replace the battery so will have an explore then.

Nick

Location: Lincolnshire UK
Favourite Product: Penta 2&3

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