Beosound Ouverture CD not working

[Madskp]

A followup to this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-and-tape-faulty/#post-22329trying to get some new input on the issue.

In short CD in the BS Ouverture was not working. Disc would start spinning, and siplay showing only CD, and sometimes CD 1 (or other number selected) or CD <>.

Tried the deep cleaning process that was suggested in the other thread, and tried it twice without any bettering of the symptoms.

Then bought a new laser kit from Beoparts and installed it.

Now the CD starts spinning and the display shows CD.

If I press a number button the display will show CD and that number, but no music is playing.

I disassembled once more and checked all connections, and then it started working and played fine.

But after some more asembely on the BS Ouverture it is now again only spinning and showing CD.

Any Ideas as to what this could be? The fact that it was playing for a while might point at an unstable connection, but might also be something else.

I have been using a grounded antistatic mat and a ground wristband for all works on the CD mechanism.

Thanks in advance

 

[pilatomic]

Hello Madskp,

Since nobody answered you, I’ll leave my 2 cents here.

The fact it works intermittently would lead me to look first for bad connections (possibly cold solder joint) or power supply instability (out of specs capacitors).

Keep in mind I’m not an expert on those, only had 2 in my hands, with rather trivial issues.

Good luck.

[matador]

To second Pilatomic’s advice and with the same advices on personal expertise, I would say I remember a thread on the previous forum about reflowing some connections around the eye or something like that. Sorry to have no time to find it for you but IIRC it should pop up with obvious key words.

Hoe this helps or may I’ve time to help you soon.

[Madskp]

Thank you both for your inputs.

I will try to look into bad connections.

Searching on reflow I also found this thread that mentions that capacitors could be an issue

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35325.aspx

So I might also have to look into that. Maybe the laser wasn’t defect after all

[Guy]

I not sure whether it would help at all but have you tried running the ‘Test Mode’ for the CD, as mentioned on page 5-17 of the service manual?

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I not sure whether it would help at all but have you tried running the ‘Test Mode’ for the CD, as mentioned on page 5-17 of the service manual?

I haven’t tried that, but will do before I proceed to see if I can get anything out of that

[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:

Guy wrote: I not sure whether it would help at all but have you tried running the ‘Test Mode’ for the CD, as mentioned on page 5-17 of the service manual? I haven’t tried that, but will do before I proceed to see if I can get anything out of that

I tried the test mode and one thing I noticed is when I try to move the laser arm to its extreme outside position i will end in the position shown on the below photo.

When I open the mechanism up I can move the laser arm way further down, by rotating the motor manually. So I guess something is hindering the movement.

Anyone has a hint to what that could be? nothing mechanically as far as I can find. The gears rotate freely all the way

[Madskp]

When doing the test mode after manually moving the laser arm to the bottom it will still end up in the shown postion when doing the test mode 5

[Madskp]

Some time have passed and based on some older forum post’s I tried a recap of the Philips CDM board on the drive mechanism.

After that I played a full CD. However after playing that first CD it would not play anymore, but after trying some of the test modes from the service manual I have now been able to play several CD’s without problems.

However there is one issue that I notice. When I press CD it will close the clamper and show CD in the display, but not start playing before I press CD once more.

This also applies if I start from standby by pressing CD. Then the display will show CD 1 but not start to rotate before I press CD once again.

A minor issue, but not the way it was supposed to work. Any suggestions as to what this could be?

[Dillen]

Could be a focus problem.
Can you tell/see, if the laser lens moves in and out to search for focus, when you press
CD with no disc loaded?

Martin

[Madskp]

Dillen wrote:

Can you tell/see, if the laser lens moves in and out to search for focus, when you press CD with no disc loaded?

When I press CD without a CD loaded nothing happens with the laser, and the display shows CD

If I press CD once more the laser will move ind and out and the display will show CD <>

[Guy]

I just wondered if there was any further progress on getting the CD working on your Ouverture?

As mentioned in this thread, I thought this would be a good place to also raise CD problems with my BC2300, as the fault sounds related and I think the CD module is similar if not identical.  I am getting the CD ERR 2 Focus error.

Looking at various service manuals last night, I realised that CD module removal on the later BC2300s with linear CD motion is similar to BS3000, in that the CD module is removed from the front rather than rear as on earlier ‘curved laser movement’ BC2300s.  I also found a YouTube video that may be useful, here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tmWOhNxZpI

(The video also shows display contrast adjustment as mentioned in the other thread)

As I see it I can try three potential fixes:

• Deep cleaning of laser
• New laser kit
• Replacement of SMD caps on CD driver board

I don’t have any time until next week at the earliest, but my current plan is to dismantle CD module and clean, and order/fit replacement capacitors.   Based on experiences earlier in this thread, I will try to avoid replacing the laser at this stage.

Any thoughts?

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I just wondered if there was any further progress on getting the CD working on your Ouverture?

Not more than described in this thread. I still have the issue where I have to press CD twice to make it play.

Guy wrote:

I also found a YouTube video that may be useful, here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tmWOhNxZpI

I also used that video a lot when I disassembled the Ouverture. Very good althoug a few details I couldn’t see so had to find info elsewhere.

Guy wrote:

As I see it I can try three potential fixes: Deep cleaning of laser New laser kit Replacement of SMD caps on CD driver board I don’t have any time until next week at the earliest, but my current plan is to dismantle CD module and clean, and order/fit replacement capacitors.   Based on experiences earlier in this thread, I will try to avoid replacing the laser at this stage. Any thoughts?

Well I did not have any luck with the deep cleaning of the laser.

But the replacement laser also did not work that well before i replaced the SMD caps.

My tactic was that it couldn’t hurt to try the deep cleaning og the laser other that taking time, and now I have got some good practice in disassemebeling the unit.

Btw. I have also tried to put the original laser that was deep cleaned back in just to see if it would work with the new SMD caps, but it still had the original issues.

 

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

I also used that video a lot when I disassembled the Ouverture. Very good althoug a few details I couldn’t see so had to find info elsewhere.

Yes there are a few bits where he seems to skip some important detail! I did find it strange that he hadn’t also removed the rear cover, because I am sure that would have made CD removal/replacement easier – eg reconnecting suspension springs to chassis.

Thanks for your further feedback – I think I will do the SMD caps first (because they will fail eventually anyway) and see how it goes from there. I’ll post updates but it probably won’t be for a couple of weeks.

[Guy]

So I took the BC2300 apart today, mainly to check the CD version and the SMD capacitor values.  I may do a fuller write up at a later stage, but here’s a few photos of what I have to play with:

CD mechanism label shows Philips VAU 1253/00:

Servo board ‘chip side’ – search identifies as CD Pro (also called CD Pro 1, apparently this was fitted with the SAA7372 chip to perform both decoding and servo):

And Servo Board SMD capacitor side – no doming of SMDs or leakage visible.  Label states CDM12 IND, where I understand that ‘IND’ signifies ‘industrial’ supplied by Philips to other OEM manufacturers, such as B&O.

And finally reverse of CD mech with servo board removed:

I have partially re-assembled the BC2300 now to check that I didn’t break anything else, and the CD still fails as before.

I had a look through a few Beoworld service manuals and can’t find a CD Pro PCB diagram that exactly matches mine (in terms of chip layout), but I will go ahead and order replacements for the SMD caps based upon observed values, which is probably the safest option anyway!

If SMD replacement doesn’t fix the fault I will probably try a replacement laser from Beoparts, as I think theirs will be compatible.

Comments/suggestions welcome!

[Madskp]

Interesting 🙂 looking forward to your results with this project.

The decoder/servo board looks much like that in my Ouverture. At least the caps are the same values.

I removed the old capacitor holding them with pliers, pushing down and twisting them back and forth. This method is described a lot of places, and seems to be a very safe vay to remove the caps without damaging the PCB traces. After the removal the component legs has to be desoldered, but that is quite easy, maybe with some added solder.

[Guy]

Thanks both!

My other BC2300 (older two-way, curved laser model) arrived in the middle of a Bavarian winter and I think had been dropped in transit.  Inside was a mess and I spent a great deal of time rebuilding the plastics inside.  I posted about it here:  https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/189/148906.aspx#148906

This newer BC2300 plastic seems less brittle; I put PCB1/2 in the service position earlier today to give it a good clean inside, but when re-assembling those self-tapping screws that go into the plastic frame are always a worry!

I have included a couple of fresh belts in my Beoparts order, and a new CR2450 battery will arrive with the capacitors!

EDIT:  Photo prior to start of cleaning with paint brush and vacuum cleaner:

[Guy]

Madskp wrote:

I removed the old capacitor holding them with pliers, pushing down and twisting them back and forth. This method is described a lot of places, and seems to be a very safe vay to remove the caps without damaging the PCB traces. After the removal the component legs has to be desoldered, but that is quite easy, maybe with some added solder.

Thanks for that. I had read about the twisting method in one of those other threads, but wasn’t sure whether heat was applied at the twisting stage. I take it that you replaced with standard (non-SMD) caps?

Last night I was comparing the BC2300 CD test modes with the same tests on BeoSound 1 and convinced myself that the BS1 laser was brighter! Possibly my imagination as difficult to compare without risking looking directly at the laser. If I had the knowledge I’d probably be measuring laser current draw or something more advanced than trial and error!

Anyway I think I may order a replacement laser as well as the caps, rather than have to wait for delivery again if the cap replacement doesn’t work. If not needed I will keep as a spare for other B&O eqpt. Might also get some spare belts and a few BL1000 feet from Beoparts …

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I take it that you replaced with standard (non-SMD) caps?

Actually I bought SMD caps, but they where a little difficult to source, and also not that easy to solder on the board. So if there is space enough I would recommend standard caps.

 

[auric]

Hi Guy:

I would recommend replacing all of the belts while you have the unit open.

I’m finding that the plastic parts on the 1990s B&O are becoming very brittle over time. The plastic is literally crumbling apart and nearly impossible to repair with super glue or epoxy. The plastic parts that receive the threaded screws are particularly suspect.  I live in North America and I’m not sure if it is a climate thing.

It’s a risk every time you open the thing.

Get it all fixed and done with and hopefully it will be good for another 20 years.

Derek

 

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