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I just realized I’d started a thread about this previously; I thought it was on the old forum for some reason.
The big cap I ordered was too tall to fit in once I swung the PCB back down. Oops.
Will have to order a shorter one.
One thing I learned: you can repeat a CD up to 10x using the Beomaster remote. That is very useful, it was annoying there is no repeat function built into the deck itself. Unlike the TT, where just hitting “play” multiple times will repeat. At least it’s possible.
Thanks, I am running it in North America on 117v though
I tested the regulator compared to a new one, and thought it was bad. I’d like to kick the sadistic engineer who designed the regulator mounting system in the groin!! What a stupid setup. Why didn’t they just screw it down?
Anyway after new regulator, new 1000uF cap C3 & new 1uF cap C4, I am still not getting any voltage out of the power supply.
So I’m thinking it must be PS diodes, or there are 2 other caps in there, on the schematic. Hopefully the power transformer is good. I’d think the fuse would have protected that though?
Ps do I need to have the TT hooked up to the rest of the system to troubleshoot this? I assume just plugging the power cord in should give me something to work with?
Thanks for any advice!
So far I’ve replaced the 2x 10,000uF caps in the 5500 amplifier, and most of the big caps in the 5500 CD player. The 4700uF I ordered was too tall for the CD player PCB to close down again ( doh!! ) so will have to order a shorter one.
The 5500 TT parts are here, will take a stab at it later today.
At least I have music now 🙂 the CD player is running, I’m curious if it’ll get warm like before. I need to order a belt for the 5500 tape deck, too. Motor spins but I assume the drawer belt has stretched/dried out, as it won’t grip.
Thanks again, for all the help!
Does anyone know if there is a good explanation of how to assemble the gears in these TT’s anywhere? I didn’t find the service manual very clear.
Or a method to test the mechanism before powering it up?
I was examining the 5500 TT board & saw the – leads were all tied together, but the CD player was tougher to figure out. It almost looked like a multi cap can.
I will make sure to add some support, so they’re not just hanging off the PCB.
I can’t seem to find those “star solder” caps anywhere. the 1000 uF 40v one in the 5500 TT looks like it has 3 leads?
I did find this, but it has 5 leads:
can I just use a regular 2 lead cap instead?
the 5500 power amp & 5500 CD player have them as well
( 4700 uF, 2200 uF in them )
I am going to recap the 5500 CD player & 5500 amplifier too, while I’m at it.
Pretty sure the CD player has a couple of those “soldering star” electrolytic capacitors.
Funny, I’ve never heard of them. They appear to just be radial caps with a more robust mounting/base?
Yes….and since it worked until I removed that bent part 1609 & reassembled the gears ( improperly? ) it highlights how important it is to make sure the gears are assembled correctly!
The service manual is a bit crypic regarding the orientation of the gears.
Aha, I see the regulator board clip now!
It will be a bit before I get all the parts, meanwhile I will test the components I remove. The diodes are original. Will post an update once I make some progress.
Thanks guys, much appreciated!
That makes sense with the regulator, I was wondering what the heck was going on with how it was mounted. Even peeked underneath the TT but it is mounted from the top.
I should probably replace all those caps anyway
I can’t even get that board PCB2 out. The regulator has an aluminum heatsink wedged on top of it, that is quite difficult to pry out & holds everything down. I’m wary of breaking something else. It’s awkward to get probes in there otherwise & if I need to replace anything, PCB2 will have to come out.
Allright I’m sick of editing that post…sorry for the mess.
It looks like the regulator is readily available, at least:
Hmm I’m getting 0.17 volts across the red & black wires @ IC1. Their source points on the PCB2 regulator board. P3 is disconnected from the control board PCB1, so there should be no load on it.
Maybe I need a new regulator?
I Never even noticed C4 hidden down there!
And that big clip-on capacitor C3 @1000 uF, can you still buy those?
*edit* hang on, I just realized those points depend on the state of C4, I do need to measure before & after the regulator. I don’t see the voltage listed before the regulator on the SM though.
Thanks again! Will investigate
I have also been testing it with the beomaster set to “phono” in case it makes a difference whether the TT is simply on, vs activated by the system to play
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I’m not getting any voltage at the anode of D1. Well, I get some millivolts. I checked my multimeter on a 1.5v battery to make sure I was using it correctly, thought maybe my range setting was off.
R26 right beside it goes to ground, and also R2. I measured from the anode of D1 to ground. Cathode to ground gave me nothing, as expected.
But this coincides with the symptoms of the TT , as it won’t even power on.
Is there another safety device in the 5500 TT besides the fuse? I wonder if the mechanical gear resistance took something out.
I plan to replace caps C2 ( 470uF 16v ) and C28 ( 2.2 uF 50v ) but need to order them.
I’m curious about the solenoid: pics below. It appears to be ok to me? The inside piece with 2 plastic ends & magnet in the middle is intact & slides freely. So I don’t think I need to rebuild it? Unless there is something else in there?
Thanks for the tip! Will check it out
Forgot to mention: the reason I reassembled it was I noticed switch #2 was jammed, and thought maybe it, or the loose connector P6 might have been the reason it wasn’t working. No such luck though.
Pulled it apart & checked the solenoid, both coils appear to have continuity, so I don’t think it burned up.
Also removed & tested diodes 3,4 as they are in the solenoid circuit. Both tested good.
Very impressed with how serviceable B&O makes their stuff. Clear labelling on the PCB’s, and hinged cases for access. I discovered the lid support wire at the back, which is convenient. I had been propping the lid up with a hook screwed into the wall earlier.
Connector P6 is the most awkward thing I have ever seen though. By the time I wriggled it off, I had to resolder all the connector points under the board since some of the pins came loose.
5500 turntable still won’t power up.
Am I posting this in the wrong section? Surprised no one has replied? Has nobody here repaired one of these before?