[Dillen]

The recitifier board pulls right up when you pry away the small black claw that holds it.
The regulator itself has three pins that goes into a connector. The regulator stays with the chassis.

The filter capacitor is a “soldering star” type – not a snap-in. They are known to go bad.

Also check the rectifier diodes. I’ve seen cases where owners fitted schottky types, – not sure why, presumably in a misunderstood attempt at improving something,
– and they are no good in this position. They typically go with a bang.

Martin

[ummagumma]

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

That makes sense with the regulator, I was wondering what the heck was going on with how it was mounted. Even peeked underneath the TT but it is mounted from the top.

 

I should probably replace all those caps anyway

[ummagumma]

Aha, I see the regulator board clip now!

 

It will be a bit before I get all the parts, meanwhile I will test the components I remove. The diodes are original. Will post an update once I make some progress.

 

Thanks again!

[Beitie]

That solenoid can be tricky at times. Though if you don’t have any power or motor movement at all, you have bigger issues to figure out.

The solenoid you have pictured reacts based on some micro switches under that PCB. The placement of that PCB and the switches are very delicate and it’s not always easy to get right.

[ummagumma]

Yes….and since it worked until I removed that bent part 1609 & reassembled the gears ( improperly? ) it highlights how important it is to make sure the gears are assembled correctly!

 

The service manual is a bit crypic regarding the orientation of the gears.

[ummagumma]

I am going to recap the 5500 CD player & 5500 amplifier too, while I’m at it.

Pretty sure the CD player has a couple of those “soldering star” electrolytic capacitors.

 

Funny, I’ve never heard of them. They appear to just be radial caps with a more robust mounting/base?

[ummagumma]

I can’t seem to find those “star solder” caps anywhere. the 1000 uF 40v one in the 5500 TT looks like it has 3 leads?

I did find this, but it has 5 leads:

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/ALP22A102DD200/13176663

can I just use a regular 2 lead cap instead?

the 5500 power amp & 5500 CD player have them as well

( 4700 uF, 2200 uF in them )

 

thanks!

 

 

 

 

[Dillen]

Soldering star capacitors have four leads. One center positive and three negative in the outer circle.

You can fit a general purpose capacitor with reasonable specs instead, just make sure to get the
polarity right and connect any negative pads that were previously connected by the original cap.

Martin

 

[ummagumma]

Nice!

I was examining the 5500 TT board & saw the – leads were all tied together, but the CD player was tougher to figure out. It almost looked like a multi cap can.

 

I will make sure to add some support, so they’re not just hanging off the PCB.

 

Thanks again!

[ummagumma]

Does anyone know if there is a good explanation of how to assemble the gears in these TT’s anywhere? I didn’t find the service manual very clear.

Or a method to test the mechanism before powering it up?

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[ummagumma]

So far I’ve replaced the 2x 10,000uF caps in the 5500 amplifier, and most of the big caps in the 5500 CD player. The 4700uF I ordered was too tall for the CD player PCB to close down again ( doh!! ) so will have to order a shorter one.

 

The 5500 TT parts are here, will take a stab at it later today.

 

At least I have music now 🙂 the CD player is running, I’m curious if it’ll get warm like before. I need to order a belt for the 5500 tape deck, too. Motor spins but I assume the drawer belt has stretched/dried out, as it won’t grip.

 

Thanks again, for all the help!

[ummagumma]

 

I tested the regulator compared to a new one, and thought it was bad. I’d like to kick the sadistic engineer who designed the regulator mounting system in the groin!! What a stupid setup. Why didn’t they just screw it down?

 

Anyway after new regulator, new 1000uF cap C3 & new 1uF cap C4, I am still not getting any voltage out of the power supply.

 

So I’m thinking it must be PS diodes, or there are 2 other caps in there, on the schematic. Hopefully the power transformer is good. I’d think the fuse would have protected that though?

 

Ps do I need to have the TT hooked up to the rest of the system to troubleshoot this? I assume just plugging the power cord in should give me something to work with?

 

Thanks for any advice!

[Author]

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