[ummagumma]

Great tips, thank you for the explanation!

[ummagumma]

That is definitely the way to do things…incredible. What software are you using to parse the signal & generate those graphs?

Have you ever gotten a flat result out of a RIAA preamp circuit?

As far as restoring the Beomaster 1000, I was planning on replacing most, if not all the caps, using the notes above by Die_Bogener, and cleaning/lubing the switches. Also checking for any notorious transistors.

If anyone else has improved the preamp ( or any other part of the unit ) I was hoping there was documentation somewhere to reference.

Not planning on messing with tuner alignment though as I don’t have the tools or knowledge, but any electrolytics in there might get replaced. Depends how it works.

 

I do have a sine generator and a scope although I have never used them. Maybe by the time I get this rebuilt I’ll try analyzing some parts of the circuit like that. Fascinating!

 

And thanks! Great food for thought

[ummagumma]

Wow!! That’s quite amazing!

I wonder if testing it right after the RIAA & before the rest of the circuitry would be the best way to assess?

Otherwise tone controls, noise & interference from other things in the circuit would affect results?

I guess one could do both, to figure out what’s going on

[ummagumma]

Can’t help you, but good luck!

I was glad to see the FM board was still in my 2317, plus the schematic inside the chassis folded up in an envelope. How cool is that? Even though I’d found a PDF online.

[ummagumma]

Hey those are interesting, thanks!

I can’t figure them out though: are the 2 colors the left & right channels?

 

Or is one of the colors supposed to be the RIAA baseline? Because it doesn’t appear to match between the 2 images, although the graph scales are different.

Apologies if I’m missing something obvious

[ummagumma]

I’ve seen restorations where new & better tolerance parts have been used to make the RIAA circuit more accurate, as well as improved the phono preamp.

 

So I was wondering if anyone had done that with the 1000

[ummagumma]

That is GREAT info, thank you!

I won’t even power it up before working on it: I found reference that one of the caps in the power supply tends to explode.

So I’ll do all that before plugging it in.

Guten tag!

[ummagumma]

Oh, thanks! I was researching & found that other link too, replied while you posted. Will check it out!

[ummagumma]

Ah: found this thread on the archived forum, looks like it’s the microswitch as the unit doesn’t respond when I spin the dial:

 

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35687.aspx

[ummagumma]

 

I just realized I’d started a thread about this previously; I thought it was on the old forum for some reason.

 

The big cap I ordered was too tall to fit in once I swung the PCB back down. Oops.

 

Will have to order a shorter one.

 

One thing I learned: you can repeat a CD up to 10x using the Beomaster remote. That is very useful, it was annoying there is no repeat function built into the deck itself. Unlike the TT, where just hitting “play” multiple times will repeat. At least it’s possible.

[ummagumma]

Thanks, I am running it in North America on 117v though

[ummagumma]

 

I tested the regulator compared to a new one, and thought it was bad. I’d like to kick the sadistic engineer who designed the regulator mounting system in the groin!! What a stupid setup. Why didn’t they just screw it down?

 

Anyway after new regulator, new 1000uF cap C3 & new 1uF cap C4, I am still not getting any voltage out of the power supply.

 

So I’m thinking it must be PS diodes, or there are 2 other caps in there, on the schematic. Hopefully the power transformer is good. I’d think the fuse would have protected that though?

 

Ps do I need to have the TT hooked up to the rest of the system to troubleshoot this? I assume just plugging the power cord in should give me something to work with?

 

Thanks for any advice!

[ummagumma]

So far I’ve replaced the 2x 10,000uF caps in the 5500 amplifier, and most of the big caps in the 5500 CD player. The 4700uF I ordered was too tall for the CD player PCB to close down again ( doh!! ) so will have to order a shorter one.

 

The 5500 TT parts are here, will take a stab at it later today.

 

At least I have music now 🙂 the CD player is running, I’m curious if it’ll get warm like before. I need to order a belt for the 5500 tape deck, too. Motor spins but I assume the drawer belt has stretched/dried out, as it won’t grip.

 

Thanks again, for all the help!

[ummagumma]

Does anyone know if there is a good explanation of how to assemble the gears in these TT’s anywhere? I didn’t find the service manual very clear.

Or a method to test the mechanism before powering it up?

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[ummagumma]

Nice!

I was examining the 5500 TT board & saw the – leads were all tied together, but the CD player was tougher to figure out. It almost looked like a multi cap can.

 

I will make sure to add some support, so they’re not just hanging off the PCB.

 

Thanks again!

[ummagumma]

I can’t seem to find those “star solder” caps anywhere. the 1000 uF 40v one in the 5500 TT looks like it has 3 leads?

I did find this, but it has 5 leads:

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/kemet/ALP22A102DD200/13176663

can I just use a regular 2 lead cap instead?

the 5500 power amp & 5500 CD player have them as well

( 4700 uF, 2200 uF in them )

 

thanks!

 

 

 

 

[ummagumma]

I am going to recap the 5500 CD player & 5500 amplifier too, while I’m at it.

Pretty sure the CD player has a couple of those “soldering star” electrolytic capacitors.

 

Funny, I’ve never heard of them. They appear to just be radial caps with a more robust mounting/base?

[ummagumma]

Yes….and since it worked until I removed that bent part 1609 & reassembled the gears ( improperly? ) it highlights how important it is to make sure the gears are assembled correctly!

 

The service manual is a bit crypic regarding the orientation of the gears.

[ummagumma]

Aha, I see the regulator board clip now!

 

It will be a bit before I get all the parts, meanwhile I will test the components I remove. The diodes are original. Will post an update once I make some progress.

 

Thanks again!

[ummagumma]

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

That makes sense with the regulator, I was wondering what the heck was going on with how it was mounted. Even peeked underneath the TT but it is mounted from the top.

 

I should probably replace all those caps anyway

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