[solderon29]

Sorry Dave,we all know him as Dillen here from his legendary posting.

Contact him (Martin) via the link to Danish Sound Parts,in the header of the forum,a sponser of the site.

Nick

[solderon29]

The picture is not very clear Dave,but try contacting member Dillen of this site,as he may have a salvaged part for you?

Nick

[solderon29]

I don’t think that the MX1500 was ever capable of processing NTSC signals,except perhaps if it were available in North America?

It was based on a Philips chassis,and adapted to function in specific markets,but none of the variants seem to cope with NTSC.

The AV9000 and most other B&O tv’s of that era were built “in house” by B&O and were multistandard designs,albeit only via the av ports.

I think that you will some sort of standards converter box to use your console with the MX1500.

Great little telly’s though,with super picture quality?

Nick

[solderon29]

The Kings new clothes,perchance?

The last time I saw anything the same style as those ‘speakers,it had my friends ashes in it!

“I saw you coming” seems to be B&O’s current marketing strategy,and as an enthusiast of many years,it saddens me,alas.

Hey ho.

Nick

[solderon29]

I think these were made for B&O (by Philips)in Italy?

Great little set’s too.

I’ve got one 1n dark grey,complete with contrast screen,and in working order,but the crt is showing it’s age.

Contrast and colour are reasonable,but drive is weakened I guess due to years of increased brightness level to overcome the contrast screen.

Shipping from the U.K.is going to be costly,alas.

Your call sir?

Nick

[solderon29]

Do you still need this relay?

I’m sure that I have one salvaged from a Beocenter 3500,which is the same mechanism.

Nick

[solderon29]

Hello Rob.

Did you find anyone to help you with the BG1200RG?

I’m near Warwick (West Midlands)Junction 15/M40.

Nick

[solderon29]

Looking at the connection panel,you should see a round Din socket with light brown plastic plug in it,but with no wires!!!

If you can see the socket but not the plug,then thats what’s causing your problem .

That socket is a port for an auxillary in/out device,eg.a mixer or equaliser,but people often think it’s another input and take the plug out,to connect something like a Bluetooth receiver,which would work,but also interrupt the signals for the other sources.

If your plug is missing,you can source one from Danish Sound Parts, that sponsors this site.

Nick

[solderon29]

Are you connecting to the correct pins on the tape output?

It should be pins 1 and 4.

The tape output level is rather low on these units (100mV),but there is scope to increase the output by altering the value of some resistors inside the unit.

Are you confident in opening the unit and doing some soldering?If not,entrust the work to someone else.

Nick

[solderon29]

My memory is a bit hazy on this now,as I only ever saw a couple of them

It did indeed extend the operation to another room,including remote control.

The oversight in the design seemed to be though,that you needed to switch the second pair of ‘speakers on/off via the transceiver manually,and could’nt ever have just the remote room ‘speaker operating.

We used to get around this by reversing the speaker 1/2 connections,as the sockets are cabled in paralel.Speaker 1 (main)then can be switched off via the  2 switch under the cover.

You’d need to wire up the MCL30 using the special cable and connections as per Keith’s post above.The cable and special 3 pin plug’s are becoming very rare now though.

If you are looking to upgrade ,it might be worth looking for a Beomaster 3300,as these were fully MCL 2(Extra Speaker etc) system compatible.

Nick

[solderon29]

Ok Tom.

The sound selection needs to be “sound”,then either 1,2 or 3.

The selection of internal or external speakers is carried out by a relay,so I would expect that in sound mode 3,there would be no sound at all,without external speakers connected?

As you are using an external source and not the internal tuner,it suggests that the problem is in the main audio control circuit (IC1)on pcb 5,or the output stage which is on the main board(pcb10).The output chips are located at the rear edge of pcb10 closest to the crt.

With the set unpowered at this stage,slide the chassis out,and check the printed circuit around the output chips and the relay for dry joints,as the parts can push through the solder here.

if nothing is obvious,we can then get technical with a meter?

Nick

[solderon29]

Hello Klaus,you get some interesting problems?

This machine has a “safety circuit”,designed to stop it functioning if anything stops the mechanism.I imagine that the capstan belt has perished by now,and the mech is jammed?

The computer monitors the consumption of the capstan motor,and shuts the machine down if it becomes excessive.

Could it be that?

Nice machine of course-good performer.

Nick

[solderon29]

Ok Tom.

What about the other options,sound 1,2,3?

These are to change between the internal speakers(1)internal and external speakers(2)or just the external speaker’s(3).

If still no sound,then yes indeed internal inspection is the next step,but great care is needed!

There are very high voltages present inside crt tv’s,even when switched off!

Are you aware of this,and confident to proceed?

If not,it may be best to enlist the help of someone experienced?

Nick

[solderon29]

Ok Tom.

Try “option programming” first.

Assuming that you have the original Beolink 1000 remote control?

With the tv in stand-by,press the PICTURE button,followed by the 1 button,then STORE,and the standby light on the set should blink .

Switch the set on,and if you now have sound-goodo-sorted?

If not,try pressing SOUND-1-store.

If still no go,then there is a problem,alas,but no doubt fixable

Don’t be tempted to tinker with the “service mode” yet.I suspect that this is what you mean by “hack on the board”?

Wholesale recapping means replacing all the electrolytic capacitors,as recommended by some,but it’s rarely necessary,and can in fact introduce more problems.

Better to work methodically?

From your discription,it seems as though the set is essentially functioning,so it should’nt need much work.

Nick

[solderon29]

These are great telly’s,but they do have number of “usual suspects”when things go wrong.

Do you have a user guide,as you need to investigate the set up,which is done via on screen guides and the remote control.

The set has a variety of audio set up options,and your’s may have been used  with external ‘speakers,or as part of a Beolink system,where the tv sound  was relayed via a seperate compatible B&O audio set up?

The squealing sound you mention seems a bit sinister,suggesting that something is amiss.

Re-capping,particularly of the power supple module is standard practice with these sets,if no previous work has been done.Wholesale re-capping is not usually necessary and can introduce new problems too!

Nick

[solderon29]

Dare I ask why you need a pcb,as they are usually alway’s repairable unless actually broken or water damaged?

Nick

[solderon29]

Does your loftbox (Global,Triax,Labgear?) need the satellite input,ie,do you use Sky etc,in the lounge?

If not,you could try a wide band amplifier at the “lounge”output of the loftbox.This will boost all the signals of course,and compensate for the losses of the splitter downstairs.

Ideally,a variable output amplifier,as you may need to balance between acceptable radio reception and not overloading tv,although thats unlikely.

Nick

[solderon29]

The first one has adequate frequency range,but the second one is probably less attenuating.

Are you connecting to the loftbox “lounge” cable,or one of the extension feeds?

Nick

[solderon29]

It’s a good mechanism,but the weak link is the rubber belt which perishes with age.

The replacement type/size is crucial too,and Martin can almost certainly help with that too.

http://www.beoparts.com.

Now we have established the machine type,I can dig among my own salvaged parts,but I don’t remember having one of those motors spare.

Nick

[solderon29]

So,is it an Ouverture or perhaps a Beocenter 4000?

Both feature cassette decks but are quite different beasts.

Might save some time and help the guy if we can establish that,right?

Nick

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