[Millemis]

This link to another post may help….

…..a bit.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I guess this will answer your question.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

You could start reading this – especially the section on NetworkLink:

BeoLink Handbook

MM

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Hi Stan – good move 😉

Sure it can, but that gives us only ‘double stereo’.

What most people are waiting for is, that it may function as a Digital PowerLink <u>receiver</u>, though.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Sorry…….but are you sure, that you are in the right thread 🤔

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Thank you for pointing to this great tutorial ✔️

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Toggling between modes on the BROne/bt is a pia….
….not much WAF in that.

“BLC (NL/ML converter) between the Core and the BV6”.
That is exactly what the converter is/was made for – for bridging between old and new Beolink….in order to make controlling simple.
The only thing to consider there is, that the BLC needs a wired network connection!

Another option would be to push a little further to get the wife to accept a BV11-40….
…..I am sure that in the end she will be happy with that 🤗

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

No, this is not the way the BL8000 are supposed to work.

It is either or!

There is even a physical switch for choosing the input.
So, no automatic switching there.

This said…..
……if you want to connect both, you will have to manually connect/switch between the two connections.

P.S.  The newer BL speakers have this ability of auto switching in a prioritized sequenze.

P.P.S.

There are a couple of companies, that make powerlink switch boxes.
A ‘google search’ will tell you more.

MM

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

No problems on my Mini M4 either – same version.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

No problems on my M2 Macbook Air.
It is the latest version (from 23. Dec 25).

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Not where I live.

By the way….
People are wishing eachother ‘a merry christmas’ looong before it is christmas.

So what’s the deal 😉🎉

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

….and a happy new year.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I haven’t been at home all day.

Just saw the winners of the december prizes.

Congrats to all of you 💐

And a merry christmas to everyone 🎅🤶

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I have a 6.57689 version on all my ASE products – but that is from back in October.
They are on automatic updating.
Most are hardwired, some on wifi.

I am not aware that there should be any later SW.

By the way….they all run flawless.

A tip…when they won’t update – please restart pulling the mains.
Then wait until they are online again.

MM

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

I do respect the commitment that people have to these speakers 😁

I would not call this ‘a hack’….it is simply a description of how to use a (B&O) speaker, that had an external amplifier module, which failed.

Back in the yesteryears I did that with my 5000’s – I used a Beolink Passive to power them.

Some might still know that Peter Pan was a huge proponent for the Pentas.
He had a pair connected to an ICEPower module for many years (he even had a spare set i the basement….just in case).

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Those pins/the connection are indeed tricky….I hate them 😉

You must be very carefull when you pull out the plug, that the ‘inner part’ does not also come out.

If it does, you’re lost….at least I was.
I had to have it fixed by a B&O technician.

Sorry – I can not give you an advice.

MM

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Hi Rob

A lovely setup!

Before you even consider getting rid of the BL19, you should spend some time relocating it in the room – it might take several tests.

Placing a sub right is crucial for a good and even sound/bas dispersion in (bigger) room.

Replacing it with something else in the same spot makes no sense – the speakers that you mention will not make the situation better….on the contrary.

I suppose that you are familiar with the sound settings of the tv, speaker roles, speaker grouping etc (?).

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Cool – I like it….but I am not sure that it would fit in at my place 😀

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

The best way is to use a ‘HDMI/ARC Converter’.
And the best one, that I know of is this:

https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69128-hdmi-arc-to-powerlink-converter/121005-hdmi-arc-to-powerlink/

because it has a PowerLink output (in case of the BL8000 you will have to use a PL-splitter as well and 2 PL cables).

This works well and is easy to set up – you then can control the volume with your tv remote.

It surely is worth it!

P.S. I do not know the solution that you have linked to – however it does not seem to have an option (HDMI/ARC for connecting) a tv.

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

There are several diffent versions of the Beo4 – and also different sw versions.

Here is a list of the possible additional commands to add:
https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/APPS_AND_ACCESSORIES/BEO4_(W.O_NAVIGATION_BUTTON)/beo4_lexicon_english.pdf

However doing like Matador describes – use a BeoLink1000 – makes it much easier.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Author]

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