[Mark-sf]

About an inch from each transit screw, there is a covered hole that accesses a screw that governs the height of each of the leaf springs. Make sure the motor runs smoothly with 2 records on the platter and the suspension is level and has equal top and bottom spacing when the records are removed.

[Mark-sf]

The insert that Craig has a picture of is different than yours which may be the problem. Not that your leading edge is not beveled like stock ones. This may have been a 3D print attempt at a replacement and is likely causing it to not seat properly.  The arm can be carefully removed be removing the two top screws under the cover and desoldering the very fine enameled copper wires (marking them first. The cartridge holder is usually tacked-glued and I have removed them using a chop stick or equivalent to tap it out from the rear. However, as this looks like a repair attempt with a non-B&O part it is unclear how it was affixed so I would proceed cautiously. It is safe to apply a heat gun (low) to help loosen the glue.

[Mark-sf]

It appears the cartridge body grounding contact is not being inserted properly. There is a small cutout at the bottom rear of the cartridge that receives this copper contact.

[Mark-sf]

I would return the “remanufactured” part. My guess is that they simply replaced the rubber but never actually tested it.

[Mark-sf]

I would only consider a fully restored 4002 for its musical value and not for its investment. I believe their value has leveled off.

[Mark-sf]

Here you go:

[Mark-sf]

They should not be a problem unless your suspension is adjusted low. If you can put 2 normal records on without bottoming you should be fine. In any case, you’ll not damage anything.

[Mark-sf]

As far as I remember, there is no locking mechanism on the lid. The unit simply detects it going up or down to control the mechanism. If this is a unit that has been in storage or unused, it could have dried damping grease at the two hinges. I would first try using a blow dryer at low setting at the lids back hinge points to soften it. Then try lifting it by both front corners so the upwards pressure is equal.

[Mark-sf]

The knob should adjust the puck in on the copper spring metal shown off the right edge of your picture. If this is not happening, then your only recourse will be an attempt at a repair, as you’ll not find a replacement except from a parts unit, given that it’s almost 60 years old.

[Mark-sf]

The Beogram 3000 was designed to fully work via datalink withe the BM3000. While input switching will generally work with older models, other functions can be iffy. There may be nothing wrong with your unit. If your fine w/o using datalink its fine to run w/o those pins. Just don’t lose them! I usually tape them to the TT.

[Mark-sf]

I can’t say I’ve ever seen that particular behavior. Have you replaced all of the electrolytic caps? These can be the cause of intermittent issues and is required for a Beogram of this age.

[Mark-sf]

If that is the case then there must be in inner point in the record where that stops occurring. Is this the case or is it simply having to cue it down a second time that allows it to continue to play? Why this is critical is that there may be something that is causing the solenoid’s arm to withdraw. The circuit switches to a lower current setting to hold it extended which makes it susceptible to being bumped to release. As such I would try it with the outer platter removed and starting it. If it stays down, then you can very gently tap the cartridge inwards to see if it moves without raising until the end.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by Mark-sf.

[Mark-sf]

If you move the arm from the off position directly to the lead-in groove, not relying on the automatic edge detection, and manually cue it down, does it play properly?

[Mark-sf]

You may have multiple problems, but one appears to be inadequate tracking force. Here is a link to the Soundsmith page that provides a very thorough description: https://sound-smith.com/how-balance-your-bo-tone-arm-and-set-proper-tracking-force.

[Mark-sf]

You really need to take a look at the service manual in the section that discusses the adjustment of the magnet coil. That is where I would start before investigating failing parts. Rudy’s Beolover site also has a complete 4000 restoration that covers that area well: https://beolover.blogspot.com/2024/02/beogram-4000-full-functional-restoration.html.

[Mark-sf]

No you access it by removing the bottom cover.

[Mark-sf]

There is a sliding shorting switch near the base of the tonearm that is activated when the arm rotates to unshort the + and – leads of each channel.

[Mark-sf]

The issue they are trying to address, is that when the weight is removed, the suspension will be higher on that side and the tonearm will show a great distance from the surface. Simply adjust and place it in but not fully seated so that you can check the height.

[Mark-sf]

No, its L-, L+, R+, R- .

[Mark-sf]

Grab the edge to the silver plate on the rear of the tone arm and lift it out. It fits using friction.

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