[Mark-sf]

Nothing is wrong with it as that’s the way it was designed. There were no 12” 45’s in its time.

[Mark-sf]

While that type of maintenance is great to do, it will not likely solve your hum problem. Hum is typically caused by improper grounding between the turntable chassis and the receiver/preamp. The wires shown in your picture are the signal wires. The ground wire will be separate to the ground screw if you are using RCA phono connectors and its connected to the shield of the internal side of a DIN cable. If you still can’t find it, please post pictures of both ends of your turntable output cable and its connections.

[Mark-sf]

Looks to me that you have got the gears aligned underneath when you reassembled. There is a procedure explained in the service manual.

[Mark-sf]

I’m not sure I understand your question. The solder connections all look sound. By rewiring are you planning to replace the wire? These are simply terminals so as long as they match the other side’s wiring the order doesn’t matter.

[Mark-sf]

You only need the strobe disc and an incandescent/neon bulb. I would also not consider any scope that didn’t have a 5mv per division sensitivity for phono work. That one is 100mv. Best of luck with your projects.

[Mark-sf]

I would simply get a simple strobe disc for speed adjustment and not worry about the anti-skate setting. Counting rotations WON’T work. Investing in a scope and test records is only warranted if you want to get into the refurbishment business.

[Mark-sf]

About an inch from each transit screw, there is a covered hole that accesses a screw that governs the height of each of the leaf springs. Make sure the motor runs smoothly with 2 records on the platter and the suspension is level and has equal top and bottom spacing when the records are removed.

[Mark-sf]

The insert that Craig has a picture of is different than yours which may be the problem. Not that your leading edge is not beveled like stock ones. This may have been a 3D print attempt at a replacement and is likely causing it to not seat properly.  The arm can be carefully removed be removing the two top screws under the cover and desoldering the very fine enameled copper wires (marking them first. The cartridge holder is usually tacked-glued and I have removed them using a chop stick or equivalent to tap it out from the rear. However, as this looks like a repair attempt with a non-B&O part it is unclear how it was affixed so I would proceed cautiously. It is safe to apply a heat gun (low) to help loosen the glue.

[Mark-sf]

It appears the cartridge body grounding contact is not being inserted properly. There is a small cutout at the bottom rear of the cartridge that receives this copper contact.

[Mark-sf]

I would return the “remanufactured” part. My guess is that they simply replaced the rubber but never actually tested it.

[Mark-sf]

I would only consider a fully restored 4002 for its musical value and not for its investment. I believe their value has leveled off.

[Mark-sf]

Here you go:

[Mark-sf]

They should not be a problem unless your suspension is adjusted low. If you can put 2 normal records on without bottoming you should be fine. In any case, you’ll not damage anything.

[Mark-sf]

As far as I remember, there is no locking mechanism on the lid. The unit simply detects it going up or down to control the mechanism. If this is a unit that has been in storage or unused, it could have dried damping grease at the two hinges. I would first try using a blow dryer at low setting at the lids back hinge points to soften it. Then try lifting it by both front corners so the upwards pressure is equal.

[Mark-sf]

The knob should adjust the puck in on the copper spring metal shown off the right edge of your picture. If this is not happening, then your only recourse will be an attempt at a repair, as you’ll not find a replacement except from a parts unit, given that it’s almost 60 years old.

[Mark-sf]

The Beogram 3000 was designed to fully work via datalink withe the BM3000. While input switching will generally work with older models, other functions can be iffy. There may be nothing wrong with your unit. If your fine w/o using datalink its fine to run w/o those pins. Just don’t lose them! I usually tape them to the TT.

[Mark-sf]

I can’t say I’ve ever seen that particular behavior. Have you replaced all of the electrolytic caps? These can be the cause of intermittent issues and is required for a Beogram of this age.

[Mark-sf]

If that is the case then there must be in inner point in the record where that stops occurring. Is this the case or is it simply having to cue it down a second time that allows it to continue to play? Why this is critical is that there may be something that is causing the solenoid’s arm to withdraw. The circuit switches to a lower current setting to hold it extended which makes it susceptible to being bumped to release. As such I would try it with the outer platter removed and starting it. If it stays down, then you can very gently tap the cartridge inwards to see if it moves without raising until the end.

• This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by Mark-sf.

[Mark-sf]

If you move the arm from the off position directly to the lead-in groove, not relying on the automatic edge detection, and manually cue it down, does it play properly?

[Mark-sf]

You may have multiple problems, but one appears to be inadequate tracking force. Here is a link to the Soundsmith page that provides a very thorough description: https://sound-smith.com/how-balance-your-bo-tone-arm-and-set-proper-tracking-force.

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