[Mark-sf]

Since it works fine on 33, I would check a few things about the 45 speed.

1. Do you have the problem with a 45 LP as well as a 7”?

2. There is a speed adjustment dial at the on the upper edge of the control square as well as a trimmer on the circuit board that you should try cleaning or at least moving back and forth several times.

3. I would check that the platter is not touching anywhere and moves freely up and down/l-r when a record is on.

4. The single likely culprit is the speed selector relay. Since 45 is rarely used, the contacts have been known to oxidize and the best approach is to replace the relay.

[Mark-sf]

It’s actually Pin 1 that is biasing 8IC1 to turn on and close the relay. You are getting the correct input voltage so I would look at the trimmer 8R2, 100mf cap, 8C1 and diode 8D2.

• This reply was modified 5 days, 5 hours ago by Mark-sf.

[Mark-sf]

I would check the voltages on the muting relay board. You should have 21V DC on P1 of the P8 Connector and .7V when the tonearm drops to open the muting relay. You also might try cleaning and adjusting the muting relay delay trimmer, 8R2.

• This reply was modified 5 days, 6 hours ago by Mark-sf.

[Mark-sf]

Do you hear the click of the muting relay after the arm sets down? Have you tried using the cartridge from your 2402?

[Mark-sf]

It depends on where the break is and your adeptness. You are correct that they are enabled wires that are typically used in winding transformers. If the break is past the point where the wires exit the back, then they can be carefully spliced after removing the enamel and soldering. If it is within the tonearm, you would have to remove that cartridge connector which is glued in. The wires are solder to a small PC board attached to the connector. It requires a needle-tipped iron and a steady hand with magnifier.

[Mark-sf]

You should be able to as that transformer was used on may models during that period. Since failures are rare, what type was it? If it was the wrong voltage selected (over-voltage) I would replace the power supply components as well. The caps in any case.

[Mark-sf]

Welcome to the forum! I would start checking the power supply voltages per the service manual. Given the units age, it may need new electrolytic capacitors or has a bad regulator.

[Mark-sf]

Check that the tonearm measures 53mm above the top of the surface to the top of the arm. Also check with the carriage moved to the center and the platter off that there is 2.5-3mm of between the top of the subchassis and top of the turntable surface all the way around.

[Mark-sf]

It looks like a normal return. The electronics cannot fail in a manner that would only speed up the return.

[Mark-sf]

Those adjustments are spelled out in Sections 5.1 and 5.3 of the service manual.

[Mark-sf]

It would be best that you post a sound clip of the noise as it’s too generic to assist. I would suggest to record with the tonearm lowered next to the record and also in a a silent groove to compare.

[Mark-sf]

The arm is slipped over a rod attached to the sub chassis and its held be a washer and circlip.

[Mark-sf]

Nothing is wrong with it as that’s the way it was designed. There were no 12” 45’s in its time.

[Mark-sf]

While that type of maintenance is great to do, it will not likely solve your hum problem. Hum is typically caused by improper grounding between the turntable chassis and the receiver/preamp. The wires shown in your picture are the signal wires. The ground wire will be separate to the ground screw if you are using RCA phono connectors and its connected to the shield of the internal side of a DIN cable. If you still can’t find it, please post pictures of both ends of your turntable output cable and its connections.

[Mark-sf]

Looks to me that you have got the gears aligned underneath when you reassembled. There is a procedure explained in the service manual.

[Mark-sf]

I’m not sure I understand your question. The solder connections all look sound. By rewiring are you planning to replace the wire? These are simply terminals so as long as they match the other side’s wiring the order doesn’t matter.

[Mark-sf]

You only need the strobe disc and an incandescent/neon bulb. I would also not consider any scope that didn’t have a 5mv per division sensitivity for phono work. That one is 100mv. Best of luck with your projects.

[Mark-sf]

I would simply get a simple strobe disc for speed adjustment and not worry about the anti-skate setting. Counting rotations WON’T work. Investing in a scope and test records is only warranted if you want to get into the refurbishment business.

[Mark-sf]

About an inch from each transit screw, there is a covered hole that accesses a screw that governs the height of each of the leaf springs. Make sure the motor runs smoothly with 2 records on the platter and the suspension is level and has equal top and bottom spacing when the records are removed.

[Mark-sf]

The insert that Craig has a picture of is different than yours which may be the problem. Not that your leading edge is not beveled like stock ones. This may have been a 3D print attempt at a replacement and is likely causing it to not seat properly.  The arm can be carefully removed be removing the two top screws under the cover and desoldering the very fine enameled copper wires (marking them first. The cartridge holder is usually tacked-glued and I have removed them using a chop stick or equivalent to tap it out from the rear. However, as this looks like a repair attempt with a non-B&O part it is unclear how it was affixed so I would proceed cautiously. It is safe to apply a heat gun (low) to help loosen the glue.

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