Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
BRONZE MemberYou are going to need a male din to female rca phono adapter and then connect the TX ground wire to a screw on the 1900.
It’s possible that the cord and spring that causes the arm to move laterally has become disconnected or broken. You will need to open it up to examine,
If you remove the counterweight you will see a screw that adjusts the tonearm height when it is cued up. This should be 5mm above the record surface.
Nope, the bounce is intentional to prevent acoustic feedback. Enjoy your new purchase!
Your cropped closeup had me confused as to where the failure was. It is actually the hinge base not the hinge which has lost its screw. My recommendation would be to epoxy a nut (or if not wide enough add a washer) to the underside from which a screw from the top can thread.
Did the plastic break off from the lid or the rear where the hinge attaches? Can neither screw attach? Best would be to upload a picture
If you are stating that you have 3 RCA plugs and one just has a ground wire, then you can simply snip it off, strip it and either add a spade lug or attach it directly to your Denton. If this is not what you have please provide a picture.
Welcome back. I’m not sure I understand you issue from your description. Are you say that when you press start the arm moves to the record edge, lowers then comes up and lowers again? Or is it doing something else? When it drops again is the solenoid actuating again? Perhaps you can upload a video.
The proper setting is MM. it does have lower output than typical.
The stylus brush that was included with the cartridge is next too useless IMO and if not careful can damage the cantilever. Much better is a gel-based cleaner such as the DS Audio ST-50 which I use. Removing the cartridge is not difficult as long as you have the stylus guard in place. While holding the tone arm from the side (with thumb on top and finger under), use the other hand to pull at a downward slight angle and it will unplug. Before replacing with one of your previously used ones, I would have the stylus checked for wear to preserve your records.
No problem. Putting it more simply, while the cartridges are compatible they wear out due to use and go bad due to the rubber-type parts aging even if stored in their original box. Unless you purchased them new, you can’t know how many hours of playing time they’ve had. With care your 20E will last up to 800 hrs, and the 5000 to 1000. Only a good microscope can evaluate. A test record can evaluate the rubber suspension state. Be advised a worn out cartridge will damage records. A quality dealer or retipping company can evaluate.
The MMC5000 has a Shibata-shaped stylus designed to support CD4 records. It has a much narrower profile than the 20E family which is elliptical. Assuming its suspension has not dried out since it was released in the late 70’s (an optimistic assumption) and is not worn out, it is technically compatible. What makes you think it is not?
Faced with the two options, I would definitely go with the new MMC4 which has a nude elliptical stylus versus the rebuilt MMC5 that has a bonded diamond. The 4 has less mass to resolve more detail and track better.
Great progress! As to you hum issue, this is most likely the wrong DIN cable adaptor. Since the table has a DIN socket, unless you are connecting DIN->DIN you need a DIN-RCA that has an additional chassis ground wire designed for turntable outputs.
Welcome to the forum! You really cannot evaluate the stylus with a jewelers loop and given that the cartridge is about 45 years old, even if it was in unplayed condition, the suspension would have aged to become the issue. That cartridge was never sold with that model and was a previous generation, so it may have been used when added to that turntable. As to lubrication, that would be centered around the motor bearings as to whether the infused oil has dried out. Once you get a belt, I would test with a record that you are not concerned about damaging. A good dealer may have a stereo microscope to examine the stylus wear. Test records can determine the state of the suspension and motor bearings.
Alf, it’s important that the pulley is fully counter clockwise against its stoop before mounting the cord. If that is the case then you can manually check its movement by first unplugging it and the push the cam’s toothed bar toward the front and rotate the swing ring counter clockwise to rotate the cam and check its movement.
I would set the tracking force to zero, remove the arm cover and ensure the arm floats with no friction up to down. If it doesn’t you have found your issue and need to find where it is binding. Sometimes its the cover, tonearm wires too tight, sticky bearing, etc.
Emma, you’re welcome. Enjoy with your new addition!
I would check that if you manually lower the arm before the edge of the record that it goes down to just above the top plate. I would also check the tracking force calibration.
Most of the time with these models it is an issue with the ribbon cables between the main board and the other ones including the keypad. I would carefully reflow all of the connections on each cable end. I would also check if your 2MHz clock is running on Pin 11 of IC1.
-
AuthorPosts