machineage

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  • in reply to: BeoSound Century – IR Board Blowout! #61299
    machineage
    BRONZE Member

      An update…

      Replaced R13, C1 & C4 with SMDs. Powered it up, pressed ‘Standby > Sound > 1 > Store’ on the unit itself, which results in the number 1 briefly making an appearance on the display. Fully expecting no response as per when pressing anything on the BL1000 – I pressed Radio, and it sprung to life – it’s working! 😃

      I wonder if the break in the track between R9 & R13 caused an over-current situation in R13?

      Anyway, I’ve since removed & disassembled the gearbox & door slider, removed the old grease & applied new grease (Molykote EM-30L), and a new belt. The mechanism is now running very smoothly.

      I’ve been enjoying my old CDs again, with the unit set up in my bedroom. There’s something about having a smaller unit like this, set to the side playing music in the background (and LOUDER when one desires!), without having / wanting to fire up the main audio system.

      I’ll carry out a couple more jobs, like cleaning the CD lens / mirror, cleaning the fabric frets etc, before handing it over. This is staying in the family, but I’ve become so attached to it, I’ll be getting one for myself!

      in reply to: BeoSound Century – IR Board Blowout! #61111
      machineage
      BRONZE Member

        Thanks @Madskp!

        I cleaned the board up yesterday, and carried out a few (amateur) tests!

        R9 revealed itself as not to have blown its top. I think it was the detritus making it out to be headless. It tested out just over 10K, all good. However R13 was O/C. The track between them was also O/C. Yes, there was some corrosion. I bridged the two resistor pads with a hair’s breath wire! This required a very steady hand, and it’s a good job I’m short-sighted! 🤓

        I strapped in a couple of resistors via some wire to make 820K as good as. Alas, it’s still not working. Of the two 22uF caps – in circuit C1 is measuring 12.2uF, and C4 16.4uF. Neither are S/C. I’ll place some on order!

        IMG_0014

        in reply to: BeoVision 11 / Apple TV – Questions #60595
        machineage
        BRONZE Member

          Thank you all!

          I see BV14 is an ‘updated’ 4K / Android version of BV11. But I’ve read a number of issues with BV14, not least the Android implementation. I’m looking for a 40″ TV, and 4K won’t be anywhere near a priority. So will a BV11 prove to be a more stable / reliable option over BV14? Thanks again 🙂

          in reply to: BeoVision 11 / Apple TV – Questions #60232
          machineage
          BRONZE Member

            @Madskp

            Thanks – that made for informative, and educational reading!

            I’ve just discovered there are four versions of BV11,  Mk1 – Mk4. Should I be looking for any particular mark, are there differences that are notable, and enough to sway purchasing one mark over the other?

            Thanks again 🙂

            in reply to: BeoVision 11 / Apple TV – Questions #60194
            machineage
            BRONZE Member

              Hi MM & Graham

              Thank you for your replies!

              Great to hear I won’t need an aerial for this to work. That alone has swayed me!

              I wonder if anyone with a BV11 also has a plug in power meter to hand? I’d love to know real-life energy consumption, and if P.Mute has any effect? I use an Ecosavers energy monitor which is accurate down to a tenth of a watt.

              Regards the audio – from what I’ve read, I think BV11’s speakers will be fine for my needs. I thought about adding a subwoofer to fill out the lower end.

              I will research more about PUC which is completely new to me.

              machineage
              BRONZE Member

                Thanks!

                I just found the schematic, and yes I see now, the pre-amp outputs are fed through 100Ω resistors to pins 3 & 5 of the Powerlink sockets.

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