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An update…
Replaced R13, C1 & C4 with SMDs. Powered it up, pressed ‘Standby > Sound > 1 > Store’ on the unit itself, which results in the number 1 briefly making an appearance on the display. Fully expecting no response as per when pressing anything on the BL1000 – I pressed Radio, and it sprung to life – it’s working! 😃
I wonder if the break in the track between R9 & R13 caused an over-current situation in R13?
Anyway, I’ve since removed & disassembled the gearbox & door slider, removed the old grease & applied new grease (Molykote EM-30L), and a new belt. The mechanism is now running very smoothly.
I’ve been enjoying my old CDs again, with the unit set up in my bedroom. There’s something about having a smaller unit like this, set to the side playing music in the background (and LOUDER when one desires!), without having / wanting to fire up the main audio system.
I’ll carry out a couple more jobs, like cleaning the CD lens / mirror, cleaning the fabric frets etc, before handing it over. This is staying in the family, but I’ve become so attached to it, I’ll be getting one for myself!
Thanks @Madskp!
I cleaned the board up yesterday, and carried out a few (amateur) tests!
R9 revealed itself as not to have blown its top. I think it was the detritus making it out to be headless. It tested out just over 10K, all good. However R13 was O/C. The track between them was also O/C. Yes, there was some corrosion. I bridged the two resistor pads with a hair’s breath wire! This required a very steady hand, and it’s a good job I’m short-sighted! 🤓
I strapped in a couple of resistors via some wire to make 820K as good as. Alas, it’s still not working. Of the two 22uF caps – in circuit C1 is measuring 12.2uF, and C4 16.4uF. Neither are S/C. I’ll place some on order!
Thank you all!
I see BV14 is an ‘updated’ 4K / Android version of BV11. But I’ve read a number of issues with BV14, not least the Android implementation. I’m looking for a 40″ TV, and 4K won’t be anywhere near a priority. So will a BV11 prove to be a more stable / reliable option over BV14? Thanks again 🙂
Thanks – that made for informative, and educational reading!
I’ve just discovered there are four versions of BV11, Mk1 – Mk4. Should I be looking for any particular mark, are there differences that are notable, and enough to sway purchasing one mark over the other?
Thanks again 🙂
Hi MM & Graham
Thank you for your replies!
Great to hear I won’t need an aerial for this to work. That alone has swayed me!
I wonder if anyone with a BV11 also has a plug in power meter to hand? I’d love to know real-life energy consumption, and if P.Mute has any effect? I use an Ecosavers energy monitor which is accurate down to a tenth of a watt.
Regards the audio – from what I’ve read, I think BV11’s speakers will be fine for my needs. I thought about adding a subwoofer to fill out the lower end.
I will research more about PUC which is completely new to me.
1 April 2024 at 23:58 in reply to: BM6500 / 7000 Powerlink – Attenuated Speaker or True Pre-Amp Out? #54010Thanks!
I just found the schematic, and yes I see now, the pre-amp outputs are fed through 100Ω resistors to pins 3 & 5 of the Powerlink sockets.
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